W,f 


(/■ 


■B 


ilCSB  LIBRARY 


DYER^S  COMPANION. 

IN  TWO  PARTS. 


TAttT  MR9T,  COSTTAISIXtt 

A    GENEBAL    PLAN    OF    DYINQ 
WOOL   AND  WOOLLEN,  COTTON  AND  UNES   CL0TK5>; 

YARN  AND  THREAD. 

ALSO,   SIRECTIOirS  FOR 

^^LLlNG    AND   FINISHING, 
STAMPING  AND  BLEACHING  CLOTHS, 


PART   SEC05D,  C0STAIS9 

MANY  USEFUL  RECEIPTS 
ON  DYING,  STAINING,  PAINTING,  &c. 


BY  ELIJAH  BEMISS. 


SECOND  EDITION,  ENLARGED  AND  XAfPROYEjIJ. 


NEW-YORK : 


PUBLISHED  BY  EVERT  DUYCKINCK, 

102   FEARX-STRS£T> 


'.strict  of  J\'e-cv-I(,rk;  ss. 

HE  IT  REMEMBEUED,  That  on  tbe  fiftecntb  Jay  of  De- 
cembci",  in  the  Ihii  ty-nintli  year  of  the  Indepeiideucc  of  the  United 
States  <k  America,  Evert  Dnyckinck,  of  the  said  district,  hath  de- 
posited in  this  office  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right  whereof  he  claims 
.15  proprietor  in  the  vfoi-dsfgllowing,  to  wit : 

"  The  Dyer's  Companion.     In  two  parts.     Part  first,  containing  a 

?encral  ])!sn  of  dying  V*'o61  and  WooUen,  Cotton  aud  Linen  Cloths, 
am  and  Thread.  Also,  directions  for  Milling  and  Finishing, 
Stamping  and  Bleaching  Cloths.  Pait  Second,  contains  many  iise- 
fnl  i-eceipts  on  Dying,  Staining,  Painting,  &c.  By  Elijah  Beraiss. 
Second  Edition,  enlarged  ai.d  improved." 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  en- 
iiilcd,  "  .\n  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the 
fiOjiics  of  tiiiips,  charts,  and  books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of 
such  copies,  during  the  times  therein  mentioned."  And  also  to  an 
;ic*,  entitled,  "  An  act,  supplementaiy  to  an  act,  entitled.  An  act  for 
the  cnconragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps, 
charts,  and  books,  to  the  authois  and  i)roprieiors  of  such  copies,  dnr- 
ingthe  times  therein  mentioned,-  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to 
the   arts  of  designing,   engraving,  and  etching  historical  and  other 

ints." 

THEROX  RUDD, 
Cferk  of  the  Southern  District  of  JVeiit-York. 


fJiioncE  Loxi;,  pkixteh. 


I  N  D  E  X. 


For  Reddish  Brown, 
For  Spaiiisli  Brown, 
For  ljon()on  Sitw)ke, 
Cinnamon  Bfoivn, 
For  Smoke  Brown, 
For  Liver  Brown, 


PART  FIRST. 

Page.  I'aso 

To  set  a  Blue  Vat  of  12  Barrels,.  5  [London  Brown, oG 

.  ibid 

.    37 

.    3S 

.  ibid 

.  ibid 

.     5<) 

39,  4f) 

For  Li<rlit  Snuff  Brown,     .    .    4*) 

For  Dark  Snuff  Brown,      .    .     41 

For  Snuff  Brown,       .     41,  42,  43 

For  Bat-wint;  Brown,      ...    43 

For  Slate  Brown, 44 

For  IJove  or  Lead  Bi-own,  .  ibid 
For  Pearl  or  Silver  Grty,  .    .    45 

For  Li.iht  Brown, ibid 

For  Asli  Brown, 46 

For  Drab  Brown, ibid 

For  Drab,      46,  47 

For  Forest  Cloth, 47 

For  Lner  Drab, 4S 

For  Light  Liver  Drab,  .  .  .  il)id 
For  a  Ma<l(ler  Drab, ....  il;id 
For  a  Green  Drub,  ....  4'.) 
For  a  Reddish  Drab,  ....  ibid 
For  TJsht  Drab,     .....     50 

For  Yellow  Drab, ibid 

For  a  Dark  Yellow  Drab,  .  .  ibid 
For  a  Forest  Brown,  ....  ibid 
For  a  Dark  Forest  Brown,     .    51 

For  Paris  Mud, ibid 

For  a  Rrtvcn  C'olonr,  ....  ibid 
For  Crow  with  Coppei-as,  .  .  52 
For  Crow  with  Blueing  Com- 

jionnd, H)i<l 

For  Crow  with  Blue  Vitriol,  .  5^ 
For  Black,  .  .  .  5.-,  S4,  55, 56 
Bine,  on  Cotton  and  l^inen,  .  57 
Bine,  on  do — '"old,  .  .  .  .  ff^ 
•'lue,  on  do. — Hot,  ....  ibid 
3'2,To  take  the  Colour  ouf  of  S:lk, 
bid!     Cotton  and  Linen. — Tlot, 


Vat  and  Utcnsils  for  Dyin 
To  fit  Cloths  for  D)ing,.    .     .       7 
Other  methods  for  lilue,    .      9, 10 
Directions   to  be   observed  in 

common  Colouring,  ...  11 
To  clean  a  Copper,  ....  12 
A  General  Rule,    ....       ibid  i  For  Olive  Brown, 

For  Blue, ibid 

For  Navy  Bitie, 13 

Prussian  Blue. — ^Compound  or 

C^hymick, 14 

Another   method   for  Blueing 

or  Compound, ibid 

Prussian  Blue, 15 

Fo'-  Green,     ....      15,  10,  17 

For  Bottle  Green, 18 

For  Olive  Green, 19 

For  Yellow,   ....      19,  20,  21 

Buff  Yellow, 21 

To  lake   the   Colour   out   of 

Cioih ?A,2-2 

Scarlet  Red, 22,  23 

Crimson  Red, 24 

For   Red    with  Redwood    or 

Nicaragua, 25 

Crimson  Red  with  Redwood,  ibifl 


2R 
27 

ibid 
28 
29 

ibiii 


For  Red  with  Madder, 
For  Merroon  Red,      .     .     .     . 
Polishe<l  Red  with  Madder,    . 
For  Portable  Red,      .     .    . 

For  Claret  Red, 

For  Claret, 

For  Madder  Red  to  be  dyed  a 

Cluret,        

For  Scarlet  to  be  dyed  Claret 

or  any  dark  Colour,  ...  30 
For  Cherry  Cf>lour,  ....  ibid 
For  Violet  Colours,    ....    31 

For  Pink  Coloui-, ibid 

For  Flesh  Colour, 

Por  Or.'tnge  (Jolour, 

For  Brown, 33JFor  Green  on  Silk.— Hot, 


ibid 


For  London  Brown,  or  Cor- 
beau  with  Camwood,  .     .    . 

For  London  Brown,  or  Cor- 
beau  « ith  Nicaragua,  .    .    . 

London  Brown,  or  Corbeau 
with  Redwood, 


Green,  on  Cotton  and  Linen.— 

ibidi     Hot, 

lY'tllow,  on  do. — Hot,      ... 

35  Oransfe  "olonr,  on  do. — Hot,  . 

Flesh  Colour,  on  do. — Hot,      . 

ibidlKed,  on  do.— Cold,     .    .    .    . 


•.'J 
ibij 

60 
ibid 

ibid 

ibid 

6t 


iNfiEi. 


Jicddish   BiOMu,   tta  Cotton 

and  Linen. — llot, .    . 
♦■•lumb  Colour  oi'  Purple,  on 

Silks.— Hot, .     .    .     . 
niiiple,  on  Cotton  or  Linen. — 

Cold, 

!iown,ondo. — Cold,    . 
Dove  or  Lead  Colour,  on  da 

Cold, 

Olive,  on  do.— Cold, .    .    . 
Olive,  on  Hilk,  Cotton  or  Lin 

en. — Hot, 

"  i<ht  Olive,  ou  Cotton    ond 

linen. — Hot,      

■•lie  Coioui-,  on  do. — Hot, 
Black,  on  do.— Hot,.  .  . 
Bluck,  on  do. — (>otd,  .  . 
Gent;:.ii  ol)serv:ilioii8,  .  . 
Directions  for  dressing  Clotii 
For  FulJing  Ciollis,  .  .  . 
Vov  thin  C!oths,  .... 
To  drc.ss  Silk  and  Cotton,  &e 
Oliaervutions  on  Coloiii-s  and 

l}ye-Su;irs,      .     . 
•—— Prussian  Blue,  .    . 

liotlle  (ireen,    .    . 

Yellow,      .... 

Scarlet  il;;d, .     .     . 

-— — "rirnso!!,  .... 

Msdder  Red,    .    . 

Polished  Hed,    .     , 

Orange  Colour, 

Cherry  Colour,      .     . 

Violet  Coloui's,  .    .    . 

■    •     Pink  Colonrs,     .     .     . 

Flesh  Colour,    .    .    , 

Brown 

Corbcau  witli  Camwood, 

■Corl.-eau  with  Nicaragua 
— — Corbc.nu  with  Redwood, 
—— London  Siuoko,     .     . 
Cinnamon  Brown, 
Olive  Bi-own,      .    . 

• T-Snnff  Brown,    .     . 

I  ■  Bat-wing,  Slate,Dove,or 
Lead,  Pejtrl  or  Silver 
Giej  and  Urab, .     . 

— — Tlaren, 

Crow,  with  Copperas, 
— — ''row,  with  Comi)ound  of 

Blueing 

— —  'row,  with  Bile  Vitriol 

niack 

<'olouring  Sdk,  ... 
-——Dving Cotton  :ind  Linen, 
—•I.-   '•r''serit  siluation   of 
the  Dyer's  Business,   . 


'age.  ?sig;?' 

Observations  on  Manviia«Uir- 

Gl      ing  Cloth, 90 

APPENDIX. 

ibid  Introduction, 91 

Blue  Dying, 105 

C2  Preparing  gootls  for  Blue,  and 
ibiil      an  explanation  of  the  Dje- 

Stufts, 

f)3  Preparation  of  Lime,    .    .    . 

64 of  Sour  Liquors,    .    .    . 

To  set  a  Vat  of  t24  B.irrels,  as 

ibid      practised  in  America,    .    . 

To  know  when  a  Dye   has 

65      come  to  work, 

ibid  The  Woad  or  Pastel  Vat^     . 

ibid  .\nother  method  for  Blue,  as 

Co      practised  in  America,    .    . 

67  Of  selti\ig  and  working  a  ^'at 

6S      as  practised  at   Paris    ia 

ibid      France, 

ro  The  Cold  Vat  witli  Urine,     . 

ibid  Hot  \»t  with  Urine,     .    .    - 

Re-licating  of  the  Vat  vitli 

71      Urine, :    .     .     15&" 

7.3  Blue  Vat  with  Garden-AVoad 
74  or  Pastel-Woad,  .... 
7;'i  The  Vat  set  to  work,  .  .  . 
7C  To  set  a  Field  Woad  Vaf,    . 

77  riie  -Mannfaciuring  of  Pastel 
ibi(!      or  GardenAN  oad  as  prac- 

78  tised  in  France,  .... 
ibic;  Powder  of  Woad,     .... 

79  Of  making  Indigoin  America, 
ibid  On  Yellow  Dying,     .... 

ibid  Of  Weld,     .' 177 

ibii'  Of  Turmeric, 179 

80  Of  Fustic, 180 

ibid  OfRoiieou, 18'2 

81  Of  the  Grains  of  Avignon,    .    183 
ibi.i  Of  Red, 184 

8i  Of  Flarae-Colourcd  Scarlet,  .    186 

83  For  Scarlet   as   practised    in 

ibid      America, 1S8 

84  Com  position  for  Scarlet,    .     .    ibid 
ITo  prepare  or  Granulate  the 
I     Tin, 

ibid  Of  Scat  let  of  Grain,     \    .    . 

85  Preparation  of  the  Wool  for 
ibid      Scarlet  of  Grain,  .... 

Liquor  for  the  Kermes,    .    . 

86  Flame-Coloureil  Scarlet  as 
ibiil  practised  at  Leeds  and  in 
ib.  '      France, 

8s  Water  for  the  preparation  of 

ibi        Scarlet, 

Reddening, 

SDlSciriet  of  Givm-Lacque,  ,    . 


15,1 
ibid 

13h, 

1.1^ 
13f 


159 
15i 
15* 


169- 
ibid 
1G3 


1C& 
169 
171 
173 


189 
190 


191 
192 


200 

203 
9AQ 


iXDEX.- 


Pagc. 

Of  the  Red  of  Mad(W,    .    .  220 

ForCriiusoii, 229 

For  Laiiguedoc  Crimson,  .    .  i;32 

The  nattiKilCrimsoii  in  Grain,  234 
Sfearkt,  of  (he  Djing  of  Flock 

or  Goat's  Hair,  ....  ibid 
The  Theory  of  the  Dissolu- 

tion  of  Flock,  .  .  ^  •  .  .  240 
Scarlet  of  Archil,  and   the 

manner  of  using  it,     .    .     •  243 

Bastard  Scarlet  by  Archil,    .  246 

Red  of  Bra'^il  or  Redwood,  .  247 

Of  Brown, 252 

Of  Black 25" 

For  Black, 254 

Another  mctho<l  for  Black,    .  255 

On  the  M  islure  of  Colours,  .  259 
On  IVuxing  Loloura  three  by 

three, ibid 

Of  Purple, 260 

Pf  Orange, ibid 

Of  tke  Mixture  of  Colours 

three  by  three ibid 

For  Fawu  Colour  and  Silver 

Grey, 261 

For  Silver  Grey, ibid 

For  Tobacco  or  Snuft'Colour,  262 
Of  Colours  which  will  endure 

Milling, ibid 


Page. 

Remarks  on  ludigo,      .    .    .  262 

Of  CamwomJ, 263 

Of  Cochineal, ibid 

Of  Brazil  or  Redwood,     .     .  ibid 

Of  Nicaragua  Wood,    .    .    .  ibid 

Of  Barwoo<l, 264 

Chyinical  History   of  Saun- 

<lers, ibid 

Of  Yellow  Woods  and  Drugs,  ibid 

Of  Fustic, 2GS 

Of  Logwood  as  a  Coioming 

Brug, ibid 

Of  Barks  in  General,  .  .  .  267 
I'd  preserve  Dye-Sliifis  iiora 

Injuiy 268 

The  Cultivation  of  Tessles,   .  ibid 

Of  Sorting  Wool,  ....  269 
Of  Scouring  or  Washing  of 

Wool, 271 

Of  ^tanufacturing  Cloth,  .    .  272 

Of  Milling  Cloth ibid 

Another  method  for  Scour- 


intj, 

Of  Fisiishing  Clotli,  .... 

Of  Sidphuring  and   Whiten- 
ing Woollen  Cloth,    .    .   „ 

To  know  w  hen  Cloth  J)a§  bean* 
well  Milled,  Fiuished  wuic 
Dyed, .  \,.- 


273 

274 

875 


/<^ 


PART  SECOND. 


To  Jack  or  harden  Leather, 
for  Horseman's  Caps,  Hol- 
sters, ike 279 

To  makeVarnish  for  Leather,    ibifl 

To  make  Liquid  Blacking  for 
Boots  and  Shoes,  ....    ibid 

To  pre])are  Feathers,  Fur, 
and  Hair,  to  receive  Red, 
Yellow  or  (ireen,  ....     ibid 

To  Colour  Feathers,  Fur,  &c. 
Red, 280 

To  Dye  Brussels  Red,  .     .     .    ibid 

To  Colour  Fe'others,  Fur, 
Hair,  and  Woollen  or  Silk, 
Blue  of  anv  shade,    .    .    ,    ibid 

For  Blue  on  lirussels,  .    .    .    ibid 

To  Colour  Feathers,  &c.  Yel- 
low and  Green,      ....    281 

For  Green  on  Brussels  and 
Feathers ibid 

For  Light  Green  on  Woollen,    ibid 

To  Colour  Hats  Green  on 
the  underside, ibid 

To  Colour  Feathers,  &c. 
Black, »    .    .    ibid 


To  l.,ackcr  Brass   and  Tin- 
Ware,  282 

To  soften  Steel — for  engrav- 
ing, &c ibid 

To  uiHke  Oil-Cloth  for  Hats, 

Umbrellas,  he ibid 

To  make  Oil -Cloth  for  Car- 
pets,       ibid 

The  Chinese  method  for  ren- 
dering Cloth  w  ter-pro<tf,  .  ibid 
To  boil  Oil  for  Paiiit'ng,  .  .  ibid 
To  make  Stone  Colour,  .  .  ilnd 
To  make  Pearl  Colour,  .  .  283 
To  make  deep  Blue,  .  .  .  ibid 
To  make  Sea  Green,  .  .  .  iliid 
Verdigrease  Green,  ....  ibid 
Orange  Cclour  foi*  Carpets,  .  ili'd 
To  Sl.u-k  Verdigrease,  .  .  ibid 
To  ii;uke  >  ermillion,  .  .  .  ibid 
Of    Rose    Lake,    comrnonlv 

called  Rose  Piik,  ,    .    .  '.  284 

For  Piiissian  Blue,  ....  ibiil 
To  lav  Gold  T/caf  on  Carved 

ir  MonMins  Work,     .  285" 

Paiating  with  Milk, .    .    .    ,  ^86 


INDEX. 


Resinous  Milk  P.'iint, 

To  Stain  Clierry  a  Mahogany 

Colour,     ....... 

To  make  CheiTv-^oosl  iJie 

Colour  of  Mahogany,  .  . 
For  a  dark  Mahogany  Colour, 
To  Stain  "White  Wood  Ma- 

hoijany  Colour,  .... 
i"o  Stain   anv  kind  of  White 

Wood    a  "Daik    Ked.    or 

Lijjht  Mahogany  Colour,  . 
To  niuke   a  CUcri->    Ked  on 

Wliite  Wood  of  any  kind, 
Re.i  Stain  fur  Wood,  .  .  . 
To  make  Green  on  any  kind 

of  White  Wood,    .... 

To  St  lin  Green, 

To  Stain  a  Liqht  Oransje  Co- 


Page. 


P, 


287 


I'ur,      .    ' iliid Mead, 


Cure  for  the  Asthma,   .    .    . 

A  certain  Cure  for  the  Itch,  . 

Cure  for  tlii.   '    '    '^'      :ii,    . 

Cure  for  the-  :i,    . 

Good  Cider  ;  ic  as 

bad,      ....'.... 

For  making  Apple  Brandy,  . 

To  make  .American  Wiue,    . 

Currant.  AVine, 

Artificial  Claret,   ..... 

GoosebeiTv  Wine,    .... 

Riispherry  Wine, 

Damson  Wine, 

ibid  Wi he  of  Grapes, 

iWirie    6f     Strawberries    or 

ihid      llaspheri-ies, 

ibidl  A  short  way  for''herry\Vine, 

Black  Cheny  Wine,    .    .    . 


ibid 


ibid 
ihid 


ibid 


CSS 
ibid 


To  Stain  Wood  Black, 

Vantish    for    Wood     either 

Slai'K'd  or  I'ainted,   .    -    . 

Tar.iish,  ...         .... 

'i'o  make   Amber   or  Copal 


ibid; Beer  without  Malt,  .    .    .    . 

I  Good  common  Beer,  .  .  . 
ibidl  For  preserving  Apples  thro* 
189,      the  \Ainter, 

(To  Pickle  Cucumbers — green, 


Varnish, ibid  To  Pitklt  French  Beans, 


To  Pickle  W:dr.uts,  . 
To  Pickle  Mushi-ooms, 
I.emon  and  Orange  Peel, 


A  Polish  for  Mahogany  Fup- 

niture, ihid 

To  prf  i)are  Glue  f  jr  Cse,    .     ibid 

To  make  Hlack  1  ik  I'owder,    iliid|To  preserve  Fruit  Green, 

To  .naki  FJiatk  Ink,     .    .     .    290| Raspberries, 

For  Ri-i)  Ink,  &c ibid '-^—Barberries,    .     . 

Cure  for  tht:"  Dropsy,  .  290,  91  j— — t 'urrants,  .  .  . 
Cure  for  Ciuices,.  .  .  291,  292| — ; — ^AValnuts,  green. 
Cure  for  the  Hydrophobia,  293,294 — '■ — Cherries,.  .  . 
Cu-  e  for  the  Dyst-ntary,      294,  295 1  To  Candy  Che 


leiTies, .    .     .     . 
To  Candy    Pears,    Plumbs, 

295 1     Apricots,  ke 

ibidjOf  Je'dies 

ibtd;To  make  Butter,       .... 
296 : To  jn-eserve  Eggs,    .... 

ibid  To  Cure  Hams, 

'To  Destroy Buiis, Flies,  Anls, 
8cc:,on  tender  plants,      .     . 
To  kill  Lice  on  Caille,  .    .    . 
To  rid  Houses  of  Bugs,    .     . 
ibid|To  preserve  Wheat  and  Rye 
ibid      from  the  Weavil,  .... 
To  uiake  aiiElectric Machine,    ibid, To  preservelndianCorn  from 

To  Core  Children  in  the  worst  )     Birds, 

Rtage  of  Intoxication,  .  .  298 :For  Inoculating  Frnit  Trees, 
Cure  for  tlip  Ague,  ....  ibid  I  To  take  a  Film  off  a  Horse's 
Cure  for  Vlmonds  of  the  Ears    ,  Eve,      ...         .... 

fallen  down ihid '.\  Cure  for  Sheep  Biting, 

A  Cure  for  Frost  Bittea  Feet,    ibid'To  find  dae  Norllt  and  South, 


For  the  Dysentary  and  Cho- 
lera, or  Vomiting,       .    . 

Cure  for  St.  Anthony's  Fire, 

IRecipe  for  a  Consumption, 

Cure  for  the  Heart  Burn, . 

Cure  for  till' Stone,  .    .    . 

Indian  nietho«l  of  Curing  Spit 

ting  of  Blood 297 

A  Ri-reipt  for  Bitters,  to  pre- 
vent the  Fever  and  Ague, 
and  siU  other  fall  fevers, 

Cure  for  ■  'orns, 


age. 
29S 
ibid 
299 
ib]^ 

ibid 
ibid 
300 
ibid 
3U1 
ibid 
ibid 
ibid 
ibid 

ibid 
302 
ihid 
ibid 
ibid 
ibid 

il>l 

ibid 
ibid 

303 
il-id 
■bid 
ibid 
ibid 
ibid 
304 
ibid 
ibid 
ibid 

ibnl 

ibid 
ibid 
iliid 
305 

ibid 

."506 
ibid 

ibid 

ibid 
ibid 

307 
ibid 
ibid 


PREFACE. 

THE  design  of  "  The  Dyer* s  Companion^'^^ 
is  to  furnish  an  easy  and  uniform  system  of  dy- 
ing for  the  use  of  pr-^ctitioners,  and  those  who 
wish  to  be  benefitted  by  that  and  other  arts  in- 
troduced in  this  work.  During  an  employment 
of  several  years  in  the  clothier's  business,  1  had 
to  combat  with  many  difficulties  for  the  want  of 
an  assistant  of  this  kind;  and  I  am  veil  per- 
suaded the  greater  part  of  my  fcllow-functioners 
have  laboured  under  the  same  embarrass- 
ments, as  there  has  not  been  to  my  know- 
ledge, any  book  of  this  nature  ever  betort  pub- 
lished in  the  United  States — ?t  work  wh)eh  I 
humbly  conceive  w  ill  not  only  he  serviceable  to 
the  practitioners,  but  to  the  country  at  large. 

The  author's  attempt  to  improve  the  useful 
arts,  and  to  promote  manufactures,  he  hopes 
will  meet  the  approbation  and  encouragement 
of  his  fellow-citizens  ;  and  that  the  plainness  of 
his  plan,  will  be  excused,  as  he  is  an  unlettered 
country  dyer.  His  long  practise  in  dying  and 
dressing  cloth,  Sec.  has  given  him  great  oppor- 
tunity for  making  improvements  therein.  1  hese 
arts  admit  of  still  greater  iivprovement,  if  proper 
attention  is  paid  to  recording  and  securing  (.ur 
discoveries;  but  otherwise  it  must  be  expected 
that  they  will  remain  with  us  in  a  state  of  in- 
fancy. ... 

The  art  of  dying  is  still  far  from  having  arriv- 
ed at  a  state  of  perfection  even  in  Europe,  and 
probably  will  not  in  our  age.  This  considera- 
tion  ought  not  to  discourage  us,  but  to  increase 
our  ambition  ;  for  it  must  be  acknowledged 
that  great  improvements  have  been  made  and 
are  still  making  in  this  country. 

Those  to  whom  the  auth(  r  is  in  the  small- 
est degree  indebted  for  promoting  the  usefulness 
of  this  work,  will  please  to  accept  his  thrnks  ; 
tbeJr  future  favors  are  requested,  w  it! i  a  hope 
that  we  may  continue  to  live  in  brotherly  love. 


viii  PREFACE. 

By  contributing  our  mutual  aid  towards  galn-^ 
ing  and  supporting  our  independence  of  Great- 
Britain,  and  other  foreigi;  countries,  to  whom  ia 
arts  and  manufactures  we  have  too  long  bowed 
the  knee  ;  we  shall  promote  our  own  interests 
and  our  country's  welfare  and  glory. 

In  the  First  Part  it  is  attempted  to  have  the 
Receipts  for  dying  woollen,  silk,  cotton  and  linen 
goods,  arranged  in  the  best  order  ;  which  is  fol- 
lowed by  directions  for  the  management  of  co- 
louring, Sec.  The  different  operations  of  dye- 
stuff  are  then  attempted  to  be  shewn,  together 
with  directions  for  dressing  cloth  ;  closing  with 
some  observations  on  the  present  situation  of 
our  business. 

The  Second  Pnrt  contains  several  useful  arts 
and  discoveries,  Collected  from  various  sourc- 
es, which  will  be  found  to  be  extremely  bene- 
ficial to  the  public  in  general. 

The  author  having  for  several  j^ars  practised 
in  the  greatest  part  of  the  arts  inserted  in  this 
work,  pledges  himself  for  the  truth  of  his  asser- 
tions. He  has  endeavoured  to  use  the  plainest 
language,  and  to  point  out  every  part  of  the  pro- 
cesses, so  that  no  one  should  be  disappointed 
who  attempts  to  follow  his  directions. 

Many  master  mechanicks  refuse  to  give  re- 
ceipts to  their  apprentices  unless  they  will  pay 
for  them,  and  at  a  high  price.  There  are  many 
receipts  in  this  book,  which,  to  the  personal 
knowledge  of  the  author,  have  been  sold  for 
twenty  and  thirty  dollars  each  ;  and  the  pur- 
chaser prohibited  from  communicating  the  re- 
ceipt to  any  other  person-  By  this  means, 
uscf\il  discoveries  are  sometimes  wholly  lost ; 
and  our  improvement  in  arts  and  manufactures 
m^ke  but  slow  progress. 

Should  this  attempt  meet  with  reasonable 
encouragement  the  work  will  be  enlarged  and 
amended,  in  future  editions,  as  the  author  may 
find  time  and  means  for  the  purpose. 


F 


DYER'S  COMPANION. 

EECEIPTS,  &c;  '■ 

1.  To  s€t  a  blue  Vat  of  twelve  Barrels* 

i '  OR  a  vat  of  twelve  barrels ;  fill  the  vat  about 
-  half  full  of  water,  scalding  hot ;  dissolve 
eight  pounds  of  potash  in  eight  gallons  of  warm 
water ;  fill  the  copper  with  water ;  add  one  half 
of  the  potash  lie,  with  five  pounds  of  madder» 
and  four  quarts  of  wheat  bran  ;  heat  this  with  a 
moderate  fire,  nearly  to  boiling  heat,  often  stir., 
ring  it — turn  this  into  the  vat.  Take  five  pounds 
of  indigo,  wet  it  with  one  gallon  of  thepotash  lie, 
and  grind  it  well :  then  fill  your  copperwith  wa- 
ter, and  add  the  remainder  of  your  potash  lie, 
when  cool,  (being  careful  in  pouring  it  off,  as 
the  sediment  is  injurious  to  th«  dye) ;  add 
this  compound  of  indigo,  Sec  and  four  pounds 
of  woad ;  stir  this  continually  over  a  moderate 
fire,  until  it  boils  ;  then  turn  it  into  the  vat,  and 
stir,  rake  or  plunge  well,  until  well  mixed  toge- 
ther ;  cover  it  close  and  let  it  stand  two  hours  ; 
then  add  four  ounces  of  borax,  rake  well,  and 
let  it  stand  twelve  hours. 

If  it  does  not  come  to  work,  then  take  two 
quarts  of  unslacked  lime,  and  six  quarts  of  wa- 
ter, putting  them  into  a  vessel  proper  for  the 
purpose,  and  stirring  well ;  after  standing  till 
"Well  settled,  take  tlie  lie  of  the  lime,  and  rake 
again,  cover  close,  and  let  it  stand  two  hours. 
The  symptoms  of  the  dye  being  fit  to  work, 

3 


!.y  dyer's  companion. 

may  be  known  by  the  rising  of  a  fine  cop{)er 
coloured  scum,  on  top  of  tlic  dye,  and  likewise, 
a  fine  fi-oth  rising,  called  the  head  ;  your  dye 
will  look  green,  and  your  cloth  dipt  in  it,  before 
it  comes  to  the  air,  will  look  green  also. 

Form  of  a  Fat  and  other  Utensils  necessary  for 
Blue  Dying. 

1st.  The  ^fl^  ought  to  be  made  of  pineplank» 
at  least  two  inches  thick  :  it  should  be  five  feet 
long,  and  the  width  sufficient  for  containing  the 
quantity  required  ;  the  largest  end  down,  and 
about  three  feet  in  the  ground  ;  hooped  with 
large  iron  hoops  as  far  as  it  stands  in  the  ground  ; 
and  all  a'jove  ground  covered  with  wooden 
boops  ;  the  top  covered  tight  with  a  thick  cover 
so  as  to  exclude  the  cold  air.  A  small  lid  should 
be  made  to  open  and  shut  at  pleasure  for  the 
purpose  of  admitting  the  dye  into  the  vat,  stir- 
ring, raking,  &.c.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to 
cover  close,  so  as  to  confine  the  heat  and  steam 
from  the  time  you  begin  to  empty  your  liquor, 
until  your  vat  is  full.  The  liquor  should  be  con- 
veyed from  the  copper  to  the  vat  by  a  spout  or 
trunk,  and  after  stirring,  be  immediately  cover- 
ed close. 

2d.  The  Make  is  of  an  oval  form,  with  a 
handle  through  the  middle,  of  sufficient  length 
to  reach  the  bottom  of  tlie  vat  with  ease. 

3d.  The  Scree?!  or  Raddle^  to  prevent  the 
^ods  from  sinking  upon  the  sediment.  This 
litensil  is  placed  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  from 
the  bottom  of  the  vat.  It  should  be  as  large  as 
the  top  of  the  vat  will  admit,  and  filled  with  net- 
ting or  splinters  ;  it  should  be  hung  by  three 
cords  from  the  top,  so  as  to  be  easily  taken  out 
>vhen  necessary,  and  a  weight  in  the  middle  suf- 
ficieni  to  keep  it  down. 


iJYER  S    COMTAIflOW.  / 

4th.  The  Cross-Bar,  or  stick  across  the  vat. 
This  should  be  about  one  inch  in  diameter,  and 
placed  about  six  inches  from  the  top,  and  across 
the  middle  of  the  vat. 

5th.  The  Handlers^  Claxvs  or  Hooks,  jxrt  for 
managing  the  cloth  in  the  dye,  (for  no  air  must 
come  to  the  cloth  while  in  the  dye).  The  claws 
are  made  ^vith  wooden  handles  ;  the  hooks  of 
iron  in  an  oval  form,  half  round,  and  notches  in 
the  hooks  like  saw  teeth,  for  the  purpose  of 
catching  hold  of  the  cloth. 

To  fit  Cloths  for  Dr/ing. 

In  the  first  place  scour  the  grease  weH  out  of 
the  cloths.  Take  about  tliirty  \  ards  of  cloth  to 
a  fold  or  draft,  having  prepared,  in  your  capper, 
about  two  barrels  of  water,  with  four  ounces  of 
pearlash  therein  ;  in  this  liquor  run  and  prepare 
your  cloth  for  the  vat  about  eight  or  ten  minutes; 
then  roll  it  out  and  let  it  drain.  Then  fold  it  up 
smooth  on  the  side  of  the  vat,  that  it  may  go  in 
open;  toss  the  end  over  the  cross-bar,  and  let  a 
person  on  the^  other  side  with  his  iiauLilers  be 
ready  to  poke  it  down,  and  let  it  be  done  quid: 
and  lively.  When  tlie  cloth  is  all  in  tlrj  var, 
take  the  other  end  back  again,  by  pulling  it  hancl 
over  hand,  very  lively,  till  you  arrive  at  thc^ 
otlier.  Then  shift  sides,  and  manage  in  thi.s 
manner  till  ready  for  taking  out ;  which  will  be 
in  ten  or  twelve  minutes,  if  the  dye  is  ripe  and 
hot.  But  judgment  must  be  used  in  this  case ; 
when  the  dye  is  weak  and  cool,  it  is  necessary  to 
keep  the  cloth  in  an  hour  or  more  : 

In  taking  the  cloth  out  of  the  vat,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  use  dispatch.  The  utensils  for  this  pur- 
pose are  two  crooked  irons  pa.s:jed  just  abovfc 
the  vat,  so  that  two  men  may  put  the  cloth  there- 
on, as  taken  out  of  the  vat ;  then  a  windlass  for 


8  DYEH'S    COMPANION. 

ihe  purpose  of  wringing  the  cloth  as  dry  as  con- 
veniently can  be  done.  Hang  j^oiir  cloth  then  ia 
tlie  open  air,  till  it  is  perfectly  cool.  At  the 
same  time,  if  you  have  more  cloth,  prepare  it  as 
described  before  in  the  copper  of  pearlash  water. 
This  process  must  be  observed  every  time  the 
cloth  is  dipped  in  the  vat.  Two  dippings  are 
commonly  sufficient  for  colouring  the  first  time ; 
then  air  and  rince,  and  this  will  be  a  pretty  good 
blue — and  full  and  manage  as  you  do  cloths  to 
prepare  them  for  colouring.  However,  j'our  dye 
must  not  be  crowded  too  fast  at  first. 

If  you  find  your  dye  does  not  colour  fast 
enough,  cover  and  rake,  and  let  it  stand  an  hour 
or  two  ;  being  careful  to  keep  the  vat  covered, 
excepting  when  the  cloth  is  in :  work  the  dye 
till  it  is  cool,  then  heat  it  again.  If  all  j'our  cloths 
are  not  coloured  for  fulling ;  heat  your  dye  again 
in  the  copper  or  other  utensil,  nearly  to  boiling 
heat,  then  turn  it  into  the  vat  and  cover  it  up  ; 
add  two  pounds  of  pearlash,  rake  \fell,  and  let  it 
stand  ten  or  twelve  hours  ;.then  rake  it,  and  let 
it  stand  two  hours,  when  it  will  be  fit  for  w^ork. 
Let  the  dye  be  worked  as  long  as  it  will  colour 
well ;  then  manage  as  before  until  the  dye  is  re- 
duced. Recruit  as  before  in  setting,  and  man- 
age  in  the  same  manner  till  your  cloths  arc  all 
coloured.  Only  omit  two  pounds  of  potash  and 
one  pound  of  indigo  out  of  the  quantity  ;  and 
the  dye  must  stand  to  come  to  work,  which  will 
probably  be  sooner  than  at  first ;  caution  must 
be  used  about  w<:)rking  it  too  soon. 

The  cloths  when  fulled  and  prepared  for  co- 
louring, must  be  managed  as  at  first,  and  run 
till  they  suit  After  you  have  done  colouring, 
open  your  vat,  rake  well,  and  give  the  dye  all 
the  air  you  can.  Let  it  stand,  and  it  may  be 
kept  good  for  many  years,  if  rightly  managed  : 
After  it  has  been  recruited  several  times,  it  will 


B?EIl*S  C0MPA17I0N,  9 

be  necessary  to  dip  off  the  dye  carefully  so  as 
not  to  disturb  the  sediment  or  lees,  and  throw 
the  lees  away.  When  tl\e  dye  has  been  stand- 
ing a  long  time,  it  is  necessary  to  throw  away 
the  lees,  for  they  will  have  a  tendency  to  injure 
the  dye,  and  the  colour  will  not  be  so  bright  if 
they  remain  in  the  vat.  The  dye  will  not  come 
to  work  so  soon  as  if  the  sediment  had  remain- 
ed in  the  vat,  and  it  ought  not  to  be  disturbed 
excepting  when  it  is  necessary  to  dispense  with 
some  of  the  lees. 

The  dyer  being  careful  to  manage  according 
to  these  directions,  will  have  the  best  mode  of 
dying  cloth  blue,  known  by  me. 

To  color  yarn  or  wool  in  this  dye,  the  yarrv 
must  be  hung  loose  in  the  dye,  and  the  wool  be 
put  loose  into  a  nett  and  then  immersed. 

When  the  goods  are  dyed,  have  thcni  imme- 
diately rinced  in  clear  water ;  when  dryed,  take 
twelve  gallons  of  warm  water  to  one  pound  of 
hard  soap  dissolved,  and  one  pint  of  beef  gall ; 
wet  the  cloth  with  this,  and  let  it  run  in  the  mill 
eight  or  ten  minutes,  then  rince  it  with  fair  wa- 
ter till  perfectly  clean,  and  it  will  prevent  the 
goods  from  crocks,  &.c.  if  the  color  is  not  struck 
through  the  cloth  and  cuts  light  in  the  middle, 
to  20  yards  take  half  pint  of  color,  put  in 
your  copper  of  boiling  hot  water,  run  one  hour, 
and  rince  well. 


2d.  ANOTHEn  METHOD  FOR  BLUE. 
The  best  to  dye  Yarn  or  Woo). 

TO  set  a  tub  of  6  gallons,  take  five  gallons  of 
good  old  sig,to  whiGij.^d  2  gills  of  spirits,half 
a  pound- of  good  indigo  made  line  j  put  it  ini^ 
B  3 


10  2)YffR'S  COMPANIOI?. 

bag,  wet  it  and  rub  it  out  in  the  dye,  then  a^ 
two  oupxes  of  pearlash,  and  2  ounces  of  good 
madder  ;  stir  and  mix  it  all  together,  let  it  stand 
24  hours  ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  wheat  bran, 
stir  it  up  till  well  mixed  together,  let  it  stand  24 
hours  longer,  and  if  your  dye  does  not  come  to 
work  by  this  time,  stir  it  as  often  as  once  in  two 
or  three  hours,  but  do  not  apply  your  goods  be- 
fore your  copper  scum  and  froth  rises,  and  the 
dye  looks  greenish  when  dropping,  and  your 
yam  or  wool  looks  greenish  when  applied  to  tl:ie 
dye,  which  are  symptoms  that  your  dye  is  in 
good  order  for  use  ;  but  you  must  be  cautious 
not  to  crowd  your  dye  too  full, for  many  blue  dyes 
are  destroyed  in  this  way.  Be  careful  also  about 
reducing  your  dye  too  low  ;  always  keep  indi- 
go iri  the  bag,  rubbing  it  out  when  necessary  ; 
and  you  need  not  stop  your  dye  to  recruit  it  af- 
ter it  has  come  to  work  ;  but  make  your  addi- 
tions when  you  take  your  goods  out,  as  you  find 
it  necessary.  Wring  cut  the  goods,  stir  your 
'dye  well  together,  cover  it  close,  and  place  it 
•where  it  will  keep  lukewarm.  It  will  not  dye  so 
quick  as  the  other  dye,  but  it  will  make  a  superior 
blue.  It  is  commonly  from  two  to  three  days 
in  colouring  for  a  deep  blue. 

N.  B.  The  yarn  or  wool  should  be  wet  in 
warm  sig,  before  it  i&put  in  the  dye,  and  the  tiib 
■covered  close,  &c. 


Sd.  JJVOTHER  METHOD   FOR  BLUE. 

TA  K  E  half  a  py  il  full  of  good  ashes?  two  qu  arts 
of  stone  lime,  and  as  much  sig  as  to  run 
through  three  gaUon&  of  liquor ;  add  two  ounceS' 


dyer's  COMPANIO-ir.  1% 

of  good  4ndigo  made  fine,  four  ounces  of  good 
madder,  and  half  a  pint  of  wheat  bran  ;  stir  aixl 
mix  it  well  together,  let  it  stand  two  days,  then 
stir  it  up,  and  put  in  half  a  pint  of  good  emp- 
tiues.  Let  it  stand  24  hours,  and  your  dye  will 
be  fit  for  work. 

Directions  to  be  observed  in  common  Colour^ 
ing, 

EVERY  person  that  understands  his  business 
knows  what  utensils  are  necessary  for  the  busi- 
ness in  colouring  ;  however,  I  will  give  a  brief 
description  of  those  commonly  used. 

The  first  thing  necessary  is  the  copper  kettle ; 
I  say  copper  kettle,  because  it  is  most  common- 
ly used  in  all  hot  dyes,  and  all  hot  dyes  niay  be 
coloured  in  the  copper,  and  I  shall  mention  no 
other  in  the  following  receipts.  Block  tin  of 
brass,  are  better  for  red  and  yellow,  than  the  cop- 
per ;  and  iron  the  best  for  black  or  green  ;  but  this 
I  leave  to  the  discretion  of  those  in  practice. 
The  size  ought  to  be  from  two  to  four  barrels, 
according  as  your  business  requires.  In  setting 
thekettle,reference  should  be  had  to  convenience 
of  heatitig  and  working. 

The  Beei,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  which  ^ 
used  for  managing  the  cloth  in  the  dye,  is  conduct- 
ed over  and  over  in  the  dye,  being  turned  by  a 
wench  ;  and  the  cloth  is  poked  down  and  spread 
open  by  a  stick  about  three  feet  long.  The  cloth 
always  should  be  tended  lively  when  in  the  dye. 
(The  time  the  cloth  is  to  be  in  these  dyes,  will 
hereafter  be  described.) 

When  the  cloth  has  been  a  sufficient  time  in 
the  dye,  then  reel  or  wind  it  up ;  let  it  drain  a  few 
minutes,  then  take  it  out  in  the  open  air,  and 
spread  it  till  perfectly  cool ;  and  this  must  be  the 
management.every  time  the  cloth  is  dipped.  Ne- 


12  dyer's  companion. 

yer  add  any  dye-stufFor  water  when  tie  cloth  is^ 
in  the  dye ;  but  when  added,  stir  and  mix  the 
dye  well  together  before  the  cloth  is  put  in.  The 
cloths  should  be  perfectly  cool  to  prevent  their 
spotting,  and  for  the  brightness  of  colours  have 
the  kettle  well  cle:ined.  To  clean  a  copper,  the 
most  com'non  form  I  practise,  is  to  rince  the 
dye  well  off,  then  take  some  ashes  and  a  swab, 
and  rub  it  well  and  rince  it  clean,  and  it  will  an- 
swer for  most  colours.  But  if  it  does  not  appear 
bright  enough,then  take  half  a  gill  of  oil  of  vitriol, 
and  rub  in  the  same  manner  as  before  ;.  rince 
dean,  &c. 

To  clean  a  Coppe^, 

TAKE,  four  ounces  of  allura,  two  quarts  of 
vinegar,  and  two  ounces  of  oil  of  vitriol  ;  put 
them  all  together,  heat  them  boiling  hot,  and  put 
th6m  into  your  kettle ;  wash  it  well  vvith  a  swab, 
rince  it  with  water  clean,  and  it  will  be  fit  for 
any  dyes. 

A  GEAERJL  RULE. 

~W  SHALL  lay  it  down  as  a  general  rule,  to  take 
X  20  yds.  or  16  lbs.  weight  for  the  quantity  of 
cloth,  for  which  to  proportion  the  dye-stuff,  How- 
«ver,any  quantity  of  cloth  or  goods  may  be  colour- 
ed by  the  following  receipts ;  only  in  the  like  pro- 
portion as  before  mentioned  :  and  another  thing 
IS  to  be  observed,  the  diflfcrent  states  of  the  dyes, 
by  giving  all  your  goods  an  equal  chance  in  the 
dye  ;  for  most  of  colours  the  dye  is  good  for 
nothing  for  that  colour  after  the  colour  is  done. 


^h  FOR  BLUE. 
TO  20  yds.  of  fulled  cloth,  take  four  pounds  of 
good  logwood  chips  J  JBdiyour  copper  with  fair 


deer's  companion,  13 

water,  acid  the  logwood,  and  boil  well  till  the 
strength  is  out ;  then  add  one  pound  of  good 
madder  and  one  pound  of  allum  ;  let  it  simmer 
together  fifteen  minutes,  but  not  boil,  (for  the 
madder  ought  never  to  boil  (run  your  cloth 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  roll  out  and  air  it ;  let 
the  dye  simmer  a  few  minutes,  then  run  it  again 
as  before,  with  the  heat  of  tht-  dye  increasing, 
about  thirty  minutes  :  air  it,  and  the  cloth  will 
then  appear  of  a  purple  cast  or  shade.  Then 
take  two  ounces  of  verdigrease  pulverized  fine; 
then  take  one  pint  of  sig  ;  put  them  into  a  pro- 
per vessel,  and  simmer  them  togetlier  yvith  con- 
stant stirring,  till  well  mixed  and  dissolved  ; 
then  add  this  to  your  dye,  with  two  gallons  of  sig, 
and  two  ounces  of  blue  vitriol ;  boil  them  mode- 
rately together  about  15  minutes,  then  stop  your 
dye  from  boiling,  and  stir  well  together,  then  run 
your  cloth  about  thirty  minutes  :  run  in  this 
manner  till  the  colour  suits,  and  you  will  have  a 
fine  blue,  but  it  will  not  be  so  durable  as  Indigo 
blue. 

Sih.     FOR  J^JVY  BLUE. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth;  fill  j'our 
copper  with  fair  water,  heat  it  boiling  hot,  take 
two  pounds  of  copperas,  half  a  pound  of  allum, 
a  qiicirter  of  a  pound  of  argal,  or  red  tartar — pul- 
verize these  together,  and  put  this  compound 
into  the  boiling  water — skim  your  dj'c,  stop  its 
boiling,  run  your  cloth  twenty  or  thirty  minutes, 
air  and  run  it  again,  as  before,  twenty  minutes, 
air  and  rince  it  in  water  ;  shift  your  liquor  from 
the  copper,  rince  your  copper,  fill  it  with  fair 
water,  then  add  four  pound  of  good  logwood 
chips,  boil  well  twenty  minutes,  then  shicken 
your  fire  and  add  an  half  pound  of  good  mad- 
der j  let  it  simmer  fifteen  minutes — together 


14  DYEH^S    COMPANIO!«-. 

with  one  ounce  verdigrease  made  fine,  as  de- 
scribed in  receipt  fourth,  with  sig,  &c-  then  take 
one  gallon  of  sig  and  add  witli  the  rest  to  the 
dye,  stir  them  well  together,  till  the  dj'c  is  well 
mixed  ;  run  your  cloth  again  in  this  dye  thirty 
minutes,  air  it  and  add  two  ounces  of  pearl- 
ash  and  run  it  again,  with  the  dye  well  mixed 
together — handle  in  this  manner,  till  your  co- 
lour pleases.  This  will  be  a  good  blue,  rather 
preferable  to  receipt  No.  4- 

6.'A.  prussu:n'blue. 

Compound,  or  Chymic— This  compound 
or  blueing  is  made  thus:  Take  one  pound  of 
,^ood  flotong  indigo  pulverized,  f  jur  pounds  of 
oil  of  vitriol,  and  two  ounces  of  fine  salt — put 
this  in  a  stone  pot  (or  some  earthen  vessel)  that 
will  contain  six  times  the  quantity  of  this  com- 
pound, or  it  wiU  l3e  liable  to  rise  and  run  over. 
First  put  in  the  vitriol,  then  the  indigo,  then  the 
salt ;  stir  this  continually  one  hour,  or  till  it 
gets  pretty  well  settled  and  cool — for  it  will  boil 
and  foment  in  a  terrible  manner.  Let  it  stand 
four  days  or  a  week,  covered  close,  stirring  it 
now  and  then,  as  is  most  convenient. 


tth.    ANOTHER  METHOD   FOR  BLUEING^ 
OR  COMPOUND. 

TAKE  one  pound  of  common  good  indigo> 
six  liftunds  of  oil  of  vitriol,  half  a  pound  of  stont^ 
lime — put  these  together  (as  described  before) 
in  the  pot  and  stir  it — This  will  be  fit  to  use  in 
forty  eight  hours.  I  have  mixed  it  without 
either  lime  or  s;)it ;  but  it  requires  more  stirring 
snd  longer  standing  before  it  it>  fit  for  use.  Thie 


dyer's  com? ANrow.  15 

compound  is  used  for  dying   Prussian  blue^ 
green  and  many  other  colours. 


9th  PRUSSIAN  BLUE. 

FILL  your  copper  with  fair  water,  heat  it 
nearly  boiling  hot,  then  add  of  your  blueing  (as 
is  before  mentioned)  a  little,  and  stir  it  well  \\  ith 
the  water,  run  your  cloth,  roll  out,  air,  and  add 
of  your  compound  by  little  and  little,  till  your 
colour  pleases. — You  may  make  in  this  dye, 
any  shade  you  wish  of  this  kind  of  blue,  and 
very  bright. 

9th.  FOR  GREEM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pound  of 
fustick  chips  and  boil  them  well,  then  add  one 
quarterpound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth  till  it  is 
a  good  yellow,  then  add  of  your  blueing*  about 
half  a  gill  at  a  time,  stir  and  mix  it  well  together 
in  the  dye,  run  your  cloth  with  a  hot  fire  fif- 
teen or  twenty  minutes,  then  air  and  add  a  little 
of  your  blueing  and  run  again  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  before,  and  add  of  your  blueing,  little  by 
little,  till  your  colour  suits. 

If  you  have  a  considerable  quantity  of  cloth 
to  colour,  it  will  be  necessary  to  boil  your  fus- 
tick till  your  dye  is  strong ;  then  put  it  in  a  tub 
for  the  convenience  of  dipping  it  off  as  it  is  pant- 
ed to  mix  with  the  bluing.  The  quantity  of 
yellow  dye  to  be  dipped  o&\  must  be  left*  to  the 
discretion  of  the  dyer,  according  to  the  quantity 
of  cloth  in  colouring  ;  let  the  chips  remain  in 

*  This  compound  of  vitriol  and  indigo,  is  known  by  the 
tiuciiig  chtjmick  or  naxon pot. 


16  jjver's  companion. 

the  kettle,  and  fill  your  copper  with  water,  boil' 
again,  and  yellow  your  cloth  till  a  good  yellow^ 
by  adding  allum  every  dipping — then  take  the 
chips  out  of  the  dye,  then  add  of  your  blueing 
run  all  your  clothes,  then  add  of  your  blueing 
and  yellow  dye,  having  your  dye  hot  and  well 
mixed  together — run  your  cloth,  and  add  of 
your  compound  and  yellow  dye,  by  little  and  lit- 
tle, well  mixed  and  stirred  together  ;  and  if  the 
colour  does  not  appear  bright  enough,  frequent- 
ly add  a  little  allum,  keep  it  in  much  longer,  and 
this  will  give  lustre  to  your  colour.  This  is 
the  best  method  of  dying  a  bright  green,  I  be- 
lieve in  the  world,  or  the  best  I  ever  knew. 

Green  requires  the  judgment  of  the  dyer  to 
prevent  one  colour  from  overrunning  the  other, 
otherwise  the  colour  will  appear  dull,  and  never 
can  be  made  bright.  But  follow  the  receipt  with 
care  and  judgment,  and  you  will  have  a  very 
fine  green. 


lOth.  FOR  GHEEM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  five  pounds  of 
good  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  two 
ounces  of  allum,  run  your  cloth  till  a  good  yel- 
low ;  then  add  of  your  blueing  half  a  pound,  run 
your  cloth  twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  tlien  air, 
and  add  a  little  copperas  and  a  little  logwood  ; 
let  it  boil  a  few  minutes,  run  again  and  handle 
till  your  colour  pleases. 


Mih.  FOR  GREEN^, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth  take  four  pounds  of 
fustick  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  two  ounces  of 
pearlash,  one  ounce  of  allum,  one  ounce  of  aqua- 
fortii — let  it  boil,  stir  and  mix  it  well  together, 


dyer's  eoMPi.Ni©:7.  i7 

aen  run  your  cloth  till  a  good  yellow ;  air,  ancl 
add  of  your  blueing,  mix  well  with  your  dye, 
run  your  cloth,  and  add  of  your  blueing  by  little 
and  little,  till  your  colour  pleases. 


12//Z.  FOR   GREEM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  quarts  of 
W'heat  bran,  wet  it  with  vinegar,  let  it  stand 
twelve  hours ;  fill  your  copper  with  fair  water, 
put  your  bran  in  a  bag  and  let  it  boil  in  the  wa- 
ter one  hour,  take  it  out,  let  it  drain,  and  squeeze 
it  dry  as  you  can ;  then  add  two  ounces  of  ar- 
gal,^  made  fine,  and  one  ounce  of  allum  ;  boi! 
well,  run  your  cloth  forty  minutes,  boiling ; 
then  air  and  rince,  shift  your  liquor  from  your 
oopper,  rincc  and  fill  with  fair  water ;  then  add 
four  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  boil  well  till  the 
strength  is  well  out,  then  add  a  litde  allum,  and 
run  your  cloth  thirty  minutes  more ;  then  add 
gi'adually,  as  much  blueing  as  is  necessary,  and 
ifiadden  with  a  little  copperas. 

If  the  colour  is  not  bright  enough,  shift  your 
dye  from  your  copper,  and  fill  with  fair  water ; 
heat  it  nearly  to  boiling  heat,  add  a  little  bluoing, 
iand  handle  till  your  colour  pleases? 


15th  FOR  GREEX, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  five  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  and  boil  well ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  allum,  and  six  ounces  of  compound 
or  blueing — half  of  your  blueing  at  a  time ;  run 
your  cloth  thirty  minutes,  then  add  tlie  rest  of 
your  blueing  together  with  yellow  dye  and  a  litr 

^  This  is  called  by  some,  Cruder  cj^  Red  Tarrsri 
C 


18  dyer's  companion. 

tie  allum ;  run  again  as  bt  fore  ;  then  add  twa 
ounces  of  blue  vitriol,  boil  well,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 

>J.  B.  These  green  dyes  are  worth  saving  as 
they  are  useful  in  many  dyes,  especially  for  botr 
tie  green  in  the  first  beginning. 


14f/;.  FOR  BOTTLE  GREBjW 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  pounds 
of  fubtick  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  two  ounces 
of  allum  and  your  blueing ;  stir  and  mix  them  well 
together,  then  runyourcloththirty  minutes,  air 
and  run  again  till  you  have  it  a  good  deep  green  ; 
tlien  addtvvo  pounds  of  logwood,  boil  well,  take 
one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  verdigrease,  pulverize 
it,  and  put  in  a  proper  vessel  with  one  pint  of 
.inegar ;  let  it  simmer  together  with  constant 
:tirring,  till  all  dissolved  ;  then  add  it  to  the  dye, 
stir  and  mix  it  well  together,  run  your  clotn 
with  your  dye  hot,  thirty  or  forty  minutes ;  then 
air  and  sadden  with  copperas,  till  the  colour  is 
dark  enough. 

If  your  green  goes  off,  shift  your  dye  from  your 
copper,  clean  it  well,  rince  your  cloth  \yell,  fill 
your  kettle  with  fair  water,  heat  it  boiling  hot, 
and  add  blueing  by  degrees  till  your  colour 
pleases. 


iSth.  FOR  BOTTLE  GREEjY, 

FOR  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  fill  your  copper 
with  fair  water,  heat  it  boiling  hot ;  take  half  a 
pound  of  blue  vitriol,  and  let  it  dissolve  in  the 


dyer's  companion.  19 

water ;  run  your  cloth  30  minutes,  air  and  run 
again  as  before ;  then  add  three  pounds  of  good 
logwood  chips  and  two  pounds  of  fustick,  and 
boil  well ;  run  your  cloth,  and  handle  till  your 
colour  pleases  ;  and  you  will  have  a  fine  bottle 
green,  but  it  is  more  liable  to  fade  than  the  other^ 
which  will  hold  equal  to  a  blue. 

Or  this,  take  one  pound  blue  vitriol,  heat  your 
copper  with  fair  water,  near  boiling  hot,  run 
your  cloth,  then  air  and  run  again  as  before ;  then 
air,  run  and  shift  your  liquor,  then  add  6  pound 
fustick  and  4  pound  logwood  chips,  boil  well 
and  run  again  as  above,  &c. 


16^^.    FOR  OLIVE  GREEM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pounds  of 
fustick,  boil  well,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  allum,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blueing ; 
run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add  half  a  bushel 
of  butternut  bark  ;  let  it  boil  moderately  till  the 
strength  is  well  out ;  run  your  cloth  30  minutes, 
air,  and  run  again ;  then  add  one  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 

When  I  have  any  bright  green  dye,  as  in  re- 
ceipt No.  9,  I  use  it  as  a  preparation  for  the 
olive  green. 


in/i.    FOR  YELLOW, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  a  quarter  of  a 

Eound  of  aquafortis,  and  as  n^uch  pewter  or 
lock  tin  as  the  aqu -fortis  will  dissolve  ;  ffir^t 
pourinrj  the  pewter  in  a  mHted  sta'e  'nt  >  wa- 
t^r ;)  liil  your  copper  with  fair  water,  heat  b jil- 


:2J0  DYER^S  COSlPANUQif. 

ing  hot ;  then  add  the  compound  of  aquafortisj 
&c.  with  six  ounces  of  argal,  and  half  a  pound 
of  alhim  ;  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  boiling  forty 
minutes  ;  then  air  and  rince,  and  shift  your  li- 
quor from  your  copper  ;  fill  with  fair  water, 
then  take  four  pounds  of  good  fustick,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  turmerick,  boil  well,  and 
add  half  a  pound  of  ailum  ;  run  your  clodi  thirty 
minutes,  and  handle  till  your  colour  gleasesv 


18/^.  FOR  YELLOrr. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  pound  oi 
\llum,  fill  your  copper  with  fair  water,  heat  boil- 
.ng  hot,  run  your  cloth  boiling,  three  quarters  oF 
unhour;  air,  rincc  and  shift  your  liquor  from 
your  copper ;  rince  and  j&ll  with  fair  water ;  add 
six  pounds  of  good  fustick,  boil  M-ell,  then  add 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum,  and  two  ounces 
of  aquafortis  killed  with  pewter^as  described  in 
receipt  No.  17;  stir  and  mix  it  well  together 
with  your  dye  ;  run  your  cloth  and  handle  till 
your  colour  suits  your  fancy. 

The  dyer  must  be  exceeding  careful  in  these 
yellow  dyes,  that  his  copper  utensils  and  cloth 
are  all  clean  ;  for  the  yellow  dyes  are  very  easily 
spoiled.  It  also  requires  great  care  about  hand- 
ling the  cloths,  that  you  do  not  touch  them 
against  any  thing  that  will  spot  them,  for  that 
is  not  very  easily  mended* 

N.  B.  The  aquafortis  must  be  put  in  a  sound 
earthen  or  glass  vessel,  to  contain  much  more 
than  the  quantity  of  itquafortis  ;  for  it  wiil  boil 
and  fly,  and  appear  to  be  red  hot  w-hen  you  put 
in  the  pewter  or  block  tin  ;  and  it  must  be  fed 
as  long  as  it  will  dissolve  it.  Then  let  it  stand 
till  cold ;  and  stopped  with  wax  or  glass  stog^ 


dyer's  companioit.  21 

per  and  it  will  keep  good  for  work,  then  apply 
it  to  the  dj^e.  This  is  the  way  that  aquafortis' 
must  be  used,  except  otherwise  directed.  Re- 
member the  pewter  or  block  tin  must  be  melted 
and  thrown  into  water,  and  it  will  dissolve  the 
better,  &c. 


19th.   BUFF  YELLOW. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  pounds 
of  good  fustick,  boil  well ;  then  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  the  best  madder  and  six  ounces 
of  allum ;  let  it  simmer  together,  but  not  boil» 
(for  the  madder  must  not  boil,  but  be  near  boil- 
ing) run  your  cloth,  and  handle  till  your  colour 
pleases. 

N.  B.  The  yellow  dye  (after  you  have  done 
dying  your  yellow,)  may  be  useful  to  all  co- 
lours that  have  yellow  in  them  ;  for  green, 
olive,  &c. 


20 t/i.  TO  TAKE  THE  COLOUR  OUT  OF  CLOTH 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  pounds 
of  red  tartar,  four  pounds  of  allum,  three  quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  cream  of  tartar,  one  pound  of 
white  argal  or  tartar  ;  pulverize  and  mix  them 
together  ;  fill  your  copper  with  fair  water,  heat 
boiling  hot ;  then  add  your  compound,  let  it 
boil,  run  your  cloth  one  hour  boiling  ;  and  this 
will  completely  destroy  almost  any  colour  oc 
cx)lours. 


21sf.  FOR  YELLOW. 

AFTER  you  have  taken  the  colour  out.  The 
cloih  must  be  well  rinced  in  water.    For  twenty 
C2 


32  dyer's  companion. 

yards  of  cloth  fill  your  copper  with  fair  watef, 
then  add  two  pounds  of  fustick,  (the  best  kind) 
half  a  pound  of  ground  turmerick,  and  one  ounce 
of  aquaf  )rti.s ;  boil  well,  run  your  cloth,  and 
handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


ZU  TO  TAKE  THE  COLOUR  OUT  OF  CLOT^ 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  half  a  pound 
of  oil  of  vitriol,  put  in  about  one  quart  of  cold 
water,  stir  it  till  u  ell  mixed  with  the  water  ;  put 
it  in  your  copper  already  filled,  and  boiling  hot, 
with  fair  water  ;  run  your  cloth  thirty  minutes, 
air  and  rince,  and  you  may  make  almost  any  co- 
lour you  please,  on  cloth  that  has  had  the  colour 
taken  out  in  this  way  ;  but  you  cannot  if  done  in 
the  way  of  receipt  No.  20  It  must  be  observed, 
that  there  cannot  be  any  great  quantity  of  cloth 
or  goods  managed  in  these  preparations  at  once,^ 
without  shifting  the  liquor ;  for  the  dye-stuli 
that  is  extracted  from  the  cloth  v\'ill  overpower 
the  preparation  that  dissolves  the  colour.  I  have 
destroyed  a  black  of  the  best  kind  ?nd  mades.. 
good  yellow,  in  this  way. 


23d.  SCARLET  REl}. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  pound  of 
good  fustick,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  turmerick, 
six  ounces  of  aquafortis,  and  half  a  pound  of  ar- 
g.  1  or  red  turtar,  which  boil  till  tlie  strength  is 
will  out,  (the  copper  being  clean  as  possible,  and 
the  water  fuirj  then  run  your  cloth  two  hours 


dyer's  companions.  £3 

with  the  dye  boiling ;  then  air,  rince  and  shift 
your  liquor  from  your  copper,  and  fill  with 
clean  water ;  heat  boiling  hot,  then  take  one 
peck  of  wheat  bran  wet  with  vinegar,  after  stand- 
ing twelve  hours,  put  it  in  a  bag,  and  boil  well 
one  hour  ;  let  it  drain,  and  squceiie  it  as  dry  as 
you  conveniently  can,  run  your  cloth  30  minutes, 
air,  rince  and  shift  your  liquor  from  your  cop- 
ier ;  clean  your  copper  as  clean  as  possible,  fill 
with  fair  water,  and  heat  boiling  hot  ;  then  add 
five  ounces  of  cochineal  made  fine,  one  ounce  of 
red  arsenick,  two  ounces  and  an  half  of  aqua- 
fortis, two  ounces  of  gum  armoniac  ;  boil  this 
together  till  the  strength  is  well  out ;  then  run 
your  cloth  with  the  dye  boiling,  run  till  your 
colour  suits,  and  you  will  have  a  line  scarlet* 


24/A.  SCARLET  RED, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  peck  df 
wheat  bran  wet  w  ith  vinegar,  let  it  stand  twelve 
hours  ;  fill  your  copper  with  water,  heat  boiling 
hot ;  put  the  bran  pudding  into  a  bag,  let  it 
boil  one  hour,  then  run  your  cloth  with  the  dyC 
boiling  forty  minutes  ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  aquafortis,  three  quarters  of  a  pound 
of  argal  or  red  tartar  ;  run  forty  minutes  more 
with  the  dye  boiling,  then  air,  rince  and  shift 
your  liquor  from  your  copper  and  fill  with  wa- 
ter ;  add  one  pound  of  fustick,  and  a  quarter  of 
\  pound  of  turnierick,  boil  this  one  hour  ;  then 
run  your  cloth  one  hour  with  the  dye  boiling, 
air,  rince  and  shift  the  liquor  from  your  copper  ; 
nil  with  water,  heat  boiling  hot;  then  arid'ix 
>unces  of  cochineal  pulverized,  three  ounces  of 
quaff>rtis,  and  one  ounce  of  armoniac  ;  let  it 
I? oil  v/eil  iifteeii  minutes  ;  run  your  eioth  one 


ii4>  DYLR^S  COMTANION. 

hour  with  your  dye  boilmg,  and  you  will  have  a 
fine  scarlet. 


25th.  CRIMSOJ^  RED, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  allum,  tlirce  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  argal ;  pulverize  these  and  mix  them 
together  ;  fill  your  copper  witli  fair  water,  heat 
boiling  hot,  and  add  this  compound ;  stir  and 
mix  it  well  with  the  boiling  water  ;  then  run 
your  cloth  one  hour  boiling ;  then  air,  rince  and 
shift  your  liquor  ;  fill  with  fair  wuter,  heat  boil- 
ing hot,  then  take  half  a  pound  of  cochineal  and 
half  a  pound  of  cream  of  tartar  mixed  and  pul- 
verized together ;  then  add  one  half  of  the  cochi- 
neal and  tartar;  run  your  cloth  three  quarters 
of  an  hour  with  the  dye  boiling ;  then  air  and 
add  of  this  compound  by  little  and  little,  widi 
your  dye  bcaliii^,  till  the  colour  is  well  raised  on 
the  red  j  then  take  half  a  pound  of  the  spirits  of 
sal  armoniac,  and  run  your  cloth  three  quarters 
of  an  hour,  and  this  will  give  it  the  crimson  hue. 
This  is  a  true  crnnson,  and  permanent. 


26iA.  FOR  CRIMSOJV  RED. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  clodi ;  take  three  quar* 
ters  of  a  pound  of  fustick,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  tunnenck,  five  ounces  of  aquafortis,  fill 
your  copper  with  water,  add  this  and  boil  well, 
till  the  s'renr^th  is  v^  e II  out  ;  run  your  cloth  one 
and  an  half  hours  with  your  dye  boiling ;  then 
air,  rince  and  stiift  your  liquor  from  your  cop^ 


J)V£R'3    GOMPANION.  ^3 

pe/,  and  wash  clean  :  fill  with  fair  water,  heat 
boiling  hot,  then  take  four  and  an  half  ounces  of 
•cochineal,  &  four  and  an  half  ounces  of  cream  of 
tartar,  pulverized  together ;  add  this  to  the  wa- 
ter with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  aquafortis,  and 
three  ounces  of  turmerick,  in  which  boil  and 
liandleyour  cloth,  run  one  hour,  then  take  halF 
a  pound  of  spirits  of  sal  armoniac,  or  good  old 
•sig,  to  bloom  with  ;  in  this  handle  with  the  dye 
boiling,  till  your  colour  pleases^ 


.7;.  JFOB   BMD    WITH  RED-WOO JD    OR  M* 
CARAGUA. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth  ;  take  ten  pounda 
of  red- wood  or  Nicaragua  chips,  and  boil  mo- 
derately in  good  clean  water  one  iiour ;  then  add 
one  pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth  forty  min- 
utes, then  air  and  let  the  dye  steep  in  the  same 
"^.anner  as  it  did  before  ;  and  run  again^  adding 

iittle  allum  every  time  you  dip  ;  and  manage 
m  this  form  till  your  colour  suits  your  fancy-* 
Red-wood  or  Nicamgua  may  be  mixt  tcgethe;^ 
or  used  separately,  just  as  the  dyer  tliinks  fit  and 
t»roper.    I  commonly  use  both  together. 


.28f/i.  CRIMSO.Y  RED   WITH  RED-V/OOD. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds 
of  red- wood,  boil  well,  but  not  fiij^t,  one  hour, 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth 
three  quarters  of  an  hour,  air  and  let  the  dye  sim- 
mer in  the  same  manner  as  before  ;  add  a  little 
allum  and  run  your  cloth,  and  manage  in  this- 
ibrm  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of  tlie  dye ; 


20  JDYERjS    COMPANION. 

then  add  half  a  pound  of  pearlash  and  handle 
till  your  colour  pleases. 

The  dyes  for  red,  that  are  made  of  red- wood 
and  Nicaragua,  must  not  be  hurried  and  drove, 
nor  crowded  too  full,  because  it  will  destroy  the 
lustre  of  the  red,  and  the  colour  will  be  dull. 
It  is  necessary  the  copper  and  all  the  utensils 
should  be  clean. 


29/^.    FOR  RED  WITH  MADDER* 

TO  twenty  j^ards  of  cloth,  take  one  peck  of 
wheat  bran,  boil  it  in  a  small  kettle  with  eight 
gallons  of  water,  one  hour ;  then  fill  your  cop- 
per with  water,  boiling  hot ;  then  add  the  liquor 
of  the  bran,  and  three  and  an  half  pounds  of  al- 
lum,  one  pound  of  red  argal,  boil  and  run  your 
cloth,  (being  well  scoured  and  clean)  one  and 
an  half  hours,  boiling ;  then  air  and  rince  your 
cloth,  and  shift  the  liquor  from  your  copper; 
fill  with  fair  water,  then  add  eight  pounds  of 
n^der  that  is  good,  and  heat  moderately,  with 
cb^tant  stirring,  till  near  scalding  hot ;  run  your 
cloth  three  qu:irters  of  an  hour  Avith  a  moderate 
fire,  tlien  increase  your  tire,  and  bring  it  near  a 
boiling  heat,  but  not  boiling,  for  the  madder 
must  not  boil,  if  you  intend  to  have  a  good  red ; 
then  run  your  cloth  in  this  manner  until  the 
strength  Is  well  out  of  the  madder,  and  the  co- 
lour well  raised  on  the  red  ;  then  shift  your  li- 
quor from  your  copper ;  fill  with  water,  and  add 
two  and  an  Jialf  pounds  of  the  best  Brazil,  boil 
well  one  hour,  and  add  three  quarters  of  a  pound 
of  allum  and  run  your  cloth  till  your  colour 
suits,  boiling  between  each  dipping ;  and  this 
will  produce  a  good  red. 
This  colour  mav  be  finished  in  the  madder 


over's  companion.  27 

dye  without  shifting  the  dye,  by  adding  two  gal- 
ions  of  lant  or  sig.  After  the  colour  is  well 
raised  in  the  niadder,  run  your  cloth  thirty  min^ 
utes,  and  it  will  answer. 

The  best  is  with  Brazil,  but  it  is  more  lengthy, 
and  the  colour  is  brighter  than  with  the  sig  j  50 
\  leave  it  to  the  discretion  of  the  dyer. 


SOr/;.  FOR  MERROO^r  RED. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  quarts  of 
wheat  bran,  wet  with  vinegar,  let  it  stand  twelve 
hours,  and  sour  ;  put  it  in  a  bag,  fill  your  cop- 
per with  water,  heat  boiling  hot,  and  boil  the 
pudding  two  hours  ;  then  take  it  out  and  let  it 
drain  ;  squeeze  as  dry  as  you  can  conveniently  ; 
then  add  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  allum,  and 
half  a  pound  of  red  argal  made  fine,  nui  yotUp 
cloth  one  hour  boiling,  air  and  let  it  lie  all  night 
and  sour ;  then  rince  your  cloth,  shift  your  li- 
quor  from  your  copper,  and  fill  it  with  fair  wa- 
ter: when  warm,  add  ten  pounds  of  good  mad- 
der, and  four  quarts  of  wheat  bran,  constantly 
stirring  until  it  is  near  boiling,  but  not  boiling, 
for  madder  must  not  boil ;  run  your  cloth  and 
manage  in  this  manner  till  the  strength  is  well 
out  of  the  dye,  and  the  red  well  raised,  thtn  add 
one  gallon  of  lant  or  sig,  and  handle  till  your  co- 
lour pleases. 


3 la/.  FOR  POLISHED  RED  WITH  MADDER. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  and  an 
half  pounds  of  nutgalls  pulverized,  put  them  in 
the  copper,  and  fill  the  copper  about  half  full  of 


"2?  IVKR'S  coufi.Kio:<z 

tvater,  put  the  galls  in,  let  it  boil  till  the  strengtli 
is  well  out ;  then  fill  the  copper  with  cold  wa- 
ter ;  see  that  your  dye  it  not  hotter  than  scalding 
hot ;  then  add  five,  six,  or  seven  pounds  of  th^ 
bf  St  madder,  in  proportion  to  the  shade  requir- 
ed ;  let  it  simmer  with  a  small  fire  one  hour, 
with  frequent  stirring;  then  run  your  cloth  thirty 
minutes,  air  and  run  again  with  the  heat  increas- 
ing ;  run  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye^ 
^nd  the  colour  well  raised  on  the  red.  The  dye 
must  steep  between  each  dipjjing,  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes,  with  the  heat  increasing,  but 
not  boiling,  for  it  will  destroy  the  substance  of 
the  madder  to  let  it  boil.  If  your  colour  is  not 
dark  enough,  add  a  little  potash  or  pearl- 
ash,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases ;  and 
Sou.  will  have  a  fine  polished  red. 


S2d.  FOR    PORTABLE  RED. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  pound  of 
Tustick,  and  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  allum, 
fill  your  copper  with  water,  heat  boiling  hot,  run 
your  cloth,  after  the  strength  is  out  of  the  fus- 
tick,  run  three  quarters  of  an  hour;  shift  your 
copper,  fill  with  fair  water,  and  then  add  six 
pounds  of  red-wood,  let  it  boil  moderately  one 
hour,  then  add  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  al- 
lum, run  your  cloth  40  minutes;  then  air,  and 
let  the  dye  simmer  one  and  an  half  hours,  and 
run  your  cloth  as  before ;  then  air  and  take  out 
the  chips,  and  add  one  and  an  half  ounces  of 
oochineal,  and  three  ounces  of  aquafortis ;  run 
again  with  the  dye  boiling,  40  minutes;  to 
bloom,  take  six  or  eight  ounces  of  spirits  of  sal 
armoniac,  or  good  old  sig ;  and  your  cloth  vvill 
be  a  good  colour  by  handliiig  in  tlus  half  ^fi 
hour. 


dyer's  cohpaniok".  29 

33rf.     FOR  CLARET  RED. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  pounds  of 
'fustick  chips,  fill  your  copper  with  water,  boil 
well,  then  add  one  pound  of  allum,  boil,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour  iDoiling,  then  air,  rince  and 
shift  your  copper ;  fill  with  fair  water,  add  eight 
pounds  of  red- wood,  boil  well,  and  add  half  a 
pound  of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then 
air,  let  the  dye  steep  one  hour,  and  run  again, 
adding  a  little  allum  ;  manage  in  this  manner 
until  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dj«e,  and 
the  colour  well  raised  on  the  red  ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  aquafortis,  killed  with  pewter  or 
block  tin,  as  described  in  receipt  18th,  run 
your  clotli  thirty  minutes  with  the  dye  boiling  ; 
then  add  two  gallons  of  sig  to  bloom,  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases,  and  you  will  have  a  line 
cjaret  red- 

34rA.    FOR  CLARET, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  twelve  pounds 
pf  barwood,  boil  well,  then  add  half  a  pound  of 
allum,  run  your  cloth  until  the  strength  is  well 
out  Qf  the  dye,  about  thirty  minutes  to  a  dipping, 
boiling  between  each  dipping  as  much  as  is  ne- 
cessary to  get  the  strength  out  of  the  barwood  : 
when  the  colour  is  well  raised  on  the  red,  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  logwood,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  copperas  mixed  together, 
and  handle  until  your  colour  pleases. 


Z5th,    FOR  MADDER   RED  TO  BE  DYED  A 
CLARET, 

a;Q  twen^  yardg  of  cloth,  take  one  pound  of 


30  oyer's  companion. 

logwood,  fill  with  fair  water,  boil  well,  run  your 
clotli,  and  sadden  with  copperas  until  your  co- 
lour pleases. 


3^^/;.    FOR    SCJRLET    TO    BE  DYEB    CLA- 
RET OR  AJiY  DARK  COLOUR. 

TO  colour  twenty  yards  of  cloth  ;  fill  your 
copper  with  water,  heat  boiling  hot,  then  add 
one  pound  of  copperas ;  run  your  cloth,  air,  and 
runit  again;  then  shift  your  liquor  from  your  cop- 
per, rince  it,  and  fill  with  water  ;  then  add  one 
and  an  half  pounds  of  logwood,  boil  well  twen- 
ty minutes,  then  run  your  cloth  till  your  colour 
pleases ;  and  you  will  have  a  fine  claret  that  is 
durable. 

This  is  the  only  way  that  scarlet  can  be  co* 
loured  a  darker  colour.  By  running  it  in  the  cop- 
peras water  first,  you  may  dye  it  almost  any  dark 
colour  you  please  ;  for  the  copperas  will  de- 
stroy all  the  acidous  power  that  the  scarlet  is 
made  by  and  depends  upon ;  but  until  the  pow- 
er of  the  acid  is  destroyed,  you  cannot  strike  any 
colour  through,  so  but  that  it  will  remain  red  in 
the  middle  of  the  cloth. 

I  have  coloured  scarlet  black  completely 
through,  and  almost  all  other  dark  colours,  by 
the  help  of  copperas. 


21  th.   FOR  CHERRY  COLOVR. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  seven  and  aa 
half  pounds  of  barwood,  boil  well,  and  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum  :  then  run  your 
(^loth  one  hour ;  air  and  add  two  poun(5s  o(Bra'- 


dyer's  oompanion.  31 

il,  and  boil  till  the  strength  is  well  out ;  run 
:,our  cloth  again  as  before  till  the  colour  is  well 
raised  on  the  red,  then  add  two  quarts  of  sigqi' 
tlant,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


SSi/i.   FOR    VIOLET  COLOURS. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  pounds 
)f  Brazil,  and  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  log- 
|vood;  boil  well*  and  add  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  allum,  then  run  your  cloth  thirty  min- 
utes, air,  and  let  it  steep  till  the  strength  is  well 
out ;  then  run  again  as  before,  then  add  three 
quarts  of  lant  or  sig,  with  the  dye  hot  and  well 
mixed  together  ;  run  yoiH"  cloth,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 

Twenty  shades  of  violet  colour  may  be  pro- 
duced, by  varying  the  logwood  and  brazilletto. 
The  further  management  of  this  dye,  I  have  left 
to  the  fancy  of  the,  dyer,  for  the  colour  will  be 
beautiful,  almost  .qual  to  cochineal  and  indigo. 

You  may  use  peach-wood  in  part,  instead  of 
all  brazilletto,  if  you  like.  It  will  be  less  expen- 
sive than  all  brazilletto ;  but  this  I  leave  to  your 
own  choice. 


a9M.  FOR  PINK  COLOUR. 

FOR  twenty  j'ards  of  cloth,  fill  your  coppeif 
with  fair  water,  heat  boiling  hot,  then  add  two 
pounds  of  allum,  and  one  pound  of  argal ;  in 
this  boil  and  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  air, 
rince  and  shift  your  copper  ;  fill  with  water,  and 
add  two  pounds  of  madder.  Let  it  heat  mode- 
rately, with  often  stirring,  ti-11  near  boiling  hot, 


32  dyer's  co^ipanion. 

run  your  doth  one  hour ;  and  you  will  Bave  a 
good  colour  of  the  kind. 


40th.  FOR  FLESH  COLOUR. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  and  anhalf 
bushels  of  black  birch,  and  half  a  bushel  of 
hemlock  bark,  boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well 
out ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum, 
run  your  cloth  one  hour,  and  handle,  and  yoU 
will  have  a  good  colour  of  the  kind. 


^Ut.FOR  ORJJVGF  COLOUR. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  3  ounces  of  argal,  and  half  a 
pound  of  allum,  boil  till  the  strength  is  well  out 
of  the  fustick,  then  run  your  cloth,  with  the  dye 
boiling,  one  hour  ;  then  air,  rince,  and  shift  the 
liquor  from  your  copper,  and  fill  with  fair 
water ;  then  add  two  and  three  quarters  pounds 
of  red- wood,  two  and  three  quarters  pounds 
of  madder,  three  quarters  of  a  ipound  of 
allum,  and  two  ounces  of  aquafortis ;  let  it 
boil  moderately,  with  often  stirring,  till  the 
strength  is  well  out ;  then  run  your  cloth  one 
hour ;  then  add  one  and  an  half  ounces  of  arsen- 
ick,  and  half  an  ounce  of  cochineal,  and  this  will 
bind  tlie  colour.  In  this  run  and  handle  till  j'our 
colour  pleases. 


42d.  FOR  0R.4A'GE. 

TO  twent>'  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds  of 
fustick,  and  four  pounds  of  red- wood,  and  boil 


dyer's  companion.  33 

v/ell ;  then  add  half  a  pound  of  alliim,  run  your 
cloth  thirty  or  forty  minutes,  then  air,  and  let  the 
dye  steep  a  while,  then  run  again  till  the  strength 
is  well  out  of  the  dye ;  then  add  one  gallon  of  sig 
to  bind  i  and  handle  till  your  colour  suits. 


4,3d.  FOR  BROWJV. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  bushels^ 
of  butternut  bark,  fill  with  water,  heat  mode- 
rately, let  it  steep,  (but  not  boiling)  till  the 
strength  is  well  out  of  the  bark  ;  then  run  your 
cloth  three  quarters  of  an  hour ;  and  air  and  run 
again  with  the  dj^e  hot,  but  not  boiling,  (for 
boiling  the  bark  destroys  part  of  the  lustre  of 
the  colour  which  the  bark  gives)  but  run  in  this 
manner  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye, 
then,  air  and  take  the  bark  out  of  your  dye ; 
then  add  a  quarter  of  a  poiuid  of  copperas  and 
two  quarts  of  sig,  and  mix  the  dye  well  together; 
run  your  cloth  with  your  dye  boiling  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes,  and  handle  in  this  manner  till 
your  colour  pleasee. 

Various  shades  may  be  produced  in  this  dye, 
by  varying  the  bark  and  copperas ;  some- 
times more  of  one  sort,  and  sometimes  less  ; 
and  thus  by  changing  the  order  of  them,  dift'trent 
shades  will  appear.  Dry  bark  and  green  will 
make  a  different  shade;  boiling  and  not  boiling  will 
havethe  same  eft'ect.  Thus  I  leave  it  to  the  dis- 
cretion of  the  dyer,  to  vary  them  as  he  or  she 
pleases,  to  answer  the  shade  or  shades  required* 


FOR  LOXDOJSr  B-ROWJV  OR  CORBEAU  JVITIT 
CAMWOOD. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  five  pounds^ 

}-J     Jut 


34  DVfER'S    COMPANION'. 

of  good  ground  camwood,  fill  your  copper  vvifh 
fair  water,  heat  boiling  hot,  let  your  camwood 
boil  a  few  minutes,  then  run  your  cloth  one 
hour ;  air  and  run  again  in  the  same  manner  as 
before  ;  air  and  add  half  an  ounce  of  blue  vitriol, 
and  a  quarter  of  pound  of  oil  of  vitriol,*  boil 
well  five  or  six  minutes,  then  run  your  cloth 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes  more  ;  then  take  one 
pound  of  copperas  dissolved  in  vinegar  by  con- 
stant stirring  on  the  fire,  (but  be  sure  and  not 
let  it  boil,  for  it  will  spoil  the  dye)  then  add  the 
copperas  by  little  and  little,  the  dye  boiling,  and 
run  as  before,  and  handle  till  your  colourpleases. 
If  it  is  not  dark  enough  for  the  corbeau,  take 
two  ounces  of  vcrdigrease  made  fine,  and  dis» 
solved  in  sig  or  vinegar  on  the  fire,  by  often  stir- 
ring, as  described  in  receipt  4th  ;  add  this  with 
one  pound  of  logwood  chips ;  boil  well,  and 
handle  in  this  manner  till  your  colour  suits. 
Sometimes  it  is  reqtiircd  to  be  very  dark,  then 
these  darkening  materials  must  be  applied 
according  to  the  judgment  of  the  dyer,  Scc» 
You  may  change  this  colour  by  adding  a  few 
ounces  of  pearlash,  to  a  bright  purple,  which 
will  be  permanent. 


*  When  oil  of  vitriol  is  applied  to  any  hot  liqaor,  you  must 
before  you  put  it  in  the  dye,  put  seven-eighths  of  cold  water 
to  it,  and  then  it  will  heat  near  boiling  hot  with  the  cold 
•water;  but  if  you  put  in  otherwise,  it  will  make  the  hot 
liquc  r  fly  in  a  sh'.cking  manner,  and  the  dver  will  be  in  dan- 
ger of  being  scalded ;  and  another  thing  to  be  observed,  yea 
m  ist  raise  your  reJ  for  your  body,  with  camwood  before 
ym,  apply  your  vitriol,  or  your  camwood  v  ill  be  lost;  for 
camwood  cannot  run  upon  any  other  dye  staff;  in  what 
•e  .  ar  it  js  u-cd  it  must  be  first  appH^;d.  other^ase  it  will 
bt  >  f  jio  use ;  yet  camwood  h  the  best  dye-WQod  in  the 
■world  if  ujsed  rjght. 


DYERS  COMPANION*  ^o 

45/A.    FOR  LOA'DOJV  BROWJ^   OR   CORBEAU 
WITH  JVICARJGUJ. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds' 
©f  Nicaragua,  and  half  a  pound  of  fustick  ;  boil 
well,  and  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your 
cloth  till  the  strenglh  is  well  out  of  the  dye,  and 
the  colour  well  raised  on  the  red,  then  add  half 
an  ounce  of  blue  vitriol,  and  half  a  gill  of  oil  of 
vitriol,  and  four  quarts  of  sig,  run  your  cloth 
30  minutes  ;  then  add  half  a  pound  of  logwood, 
boil  well, add  one  ounce  of  vcrdigrease,  pulveriz- 
ed and  dissolved,  as  in  receipt  No.  4,  run  your 
cloth  twenty  minutes  ;  then  add  copperas  by  lit- 
tle and  little  to  sadden  ;  and  handle  till  your  co* 
lour  pleases. 


A6th.  LONDON BROWK  OR  CORBFAU 
WITH  RED-WOOD. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  and  add  one  pound  of 
allum,  run  your  cloth  boiHng  three  quarters  of 
an  hour ;  air  and  rince,  and  shift  your  copper, 
then  fill  with  water,  and  add  ten  pounds  of  red- 
wood chips ;  let  it  boil  moderately  one  hour ; 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth 
forty  mirmtes,  air,  and  let  the  dye  steep  one  hour, 
and  run  again  as  before;  and  handle  in  this 
manner  till  you  have  a  good  red  ;  (you  must  be 
cautious  not  to  drive  the  dye  too  fast,  and  add  a 
little  allum  f.ow  and  then  if  necessary)  and  till 
the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye  :  then  add  one 
gallon  of  sig  or  urine,  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour» 
then  add  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  logwood 
chips,  boil  '.veil,  then  add  two  ounces  of  verdi- 
grease  ^ade  fine  and  dissolved  in  one  pint  of 


36  dyer's  companion. 

vinegar,  as  described  beforej  and  handle  till  your 
colour  pleases. 


ATtk.  LOJ^DOJ^  BROWJ^, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  two  pounds  of 
fustick  and  seven  pounds  of  red- wood  chips, 
boil  moderately  one  hour,  then  add  half  a  pound 
of  allum,  run  your  cloth  three  quarters  of  an 
hour,  then  slacken  the  heat  of  your  dye,  and  add 
three  pounds  of  madder ;  let  it  stand  and  sim- 
mer with  often  stirring  half  an  hour,  run  your 
cloth  one  hour,  and  if  the  strength  is  not  out  of 
the  dye,  run  again.  The  cloth  must  be  a  good 
red  before  you  sadden ;  then  add  copperas  to 
sadden  with  by  little  and  little,  till  your  colour 
suits. 


48;/;.  JFOR  LOjYDO.Y  BROTTM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  f(3ur  pounds; 
of  fubtick  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  half  a  pound 
of  allum  ;  then  run  your  cloth  one  hour  boiling, 
tlien  air  and  rince,  and  shift  your  copper  and  fill 
■with  fair  water  ;  then  add  six  pounds  of  red- 
wood chips,  boil  well,  add  half  a  pound  of  allum, 
Kin  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add  one  and  an  half 
pounds  of  madder,  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour, 
then  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well, 
then  add  two  gallons  of  sig ;  then  run  your  cloth. 
and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


49fA.  FOR  REDDISH  BROWjV. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  and  anhaJT 


JJYER's    COIII-ANION.  •O'V 

pounds  of  fustick,  boil  well,  and  add  a  quartep 
of  a  pound  of  allum,  in  which  run  j^our  cloth 
one  hour  boiling  ;  air  and  rince  your  cloth,  shiffr 
your  liquor  from  your  copper  and  fill  with  faiv 
water,  then  add  nine  pounds  of  red-wood  ;  let  it 
boil  well,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  pearlash  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour,  and  this 
will  be  a  good  red  ;  then  add  one  ounce  of  arse- 
nick  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  argal ;  run 
your  cloth  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  then  add' 
two  gallons  of  good  old  sig,  and  handle  till  youi? 
colour  pleases,  and  you  will  have  a  fme  colour-. 


^0//;.  FOR  SPAmSH  BROWjy. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  bushel  of 
butternut  bark,  and  one  bushel  of  walnut  bark, 
boil  well,  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  take  the 
bark  out  of  the  dye,  and  add  half  a  pound  of 
copperas  ;  run  your  cloth  forty  minutes  ;  then 
air  and  rince,  and  shift  your  liquor  from  your 
copper ;  fill  with  fair  water,  and  add  two  pounds 
of  fustick  chips ;  boil  well,  then  add  half  a  poond 
of  allum,  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  and  air  and 
rince,  and  shift  your  liquor  from  your  copper, 
fill  with  fair  water,  and  add  eight  pounds  of  red- 
wood ;  boil  well  and  add  half  a  pound  of  allum, 
run  your  cloth  one  hour ;  then  add  two  ounces 
of  oil  of  vitriol,  killed  with  the  flower  of  brim- 
stone ;  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour ;  then  add 
half  a  pound  of  logwood,  and  boil  well,  then  add 
two  gallons  of  good  old  sig ;  and  handle  till  your 
colour  pleases. 


3a  dyer's  eoiiiPA.vi-ojf. 

6]s{.  FOR  LOXDOX  SMOKE. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  prunds 
of  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  a  quarter  of^ 
a  pound  of  all  urn  ;  run  3'our  cloth  half  an  hour, 
then  add  one  and  an  half  bushels  of  good  butter- 
nut bark,  boil  moderately  till  the  strength  is  well 
out,  then  run  your  cloth  one  hour  with  the  dye 
hot ;  then  if  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye, 
take  the  bark  and  chips  out  of  the  dye,  and  add 
three  pounds  of  Nicaragua  wood,  or  red- wood, 
and  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  logwood  chips, 
boil  well  thirty  minutes ;  then  run  your  cloth 
one  hour,  then  add  one  gallon  of  sig,  run  twen- 
ty minutes  v.'itli  the  dye  boiling,  then  add  one 
and  an  half  or  two  pounds  of  copperas,  and  run 
to  your  liking  ;  and  this  will  be  a  colour  equal 
to  a  blue  for  strength,  &c. 


52J.  CLX.VjiMO^J'  BROWN. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  pounds 
)f  fustick,  and  three  pounds  of  red-wood  chips, 
or  Nicaragua,  boil  well,  then  add  half  a  pound 
of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  slack 
the  heat  of  your  dye,  and  add  four  pounds  of 
good  madder  ;  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour  ;  then 
add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth 
one  hour ;  then  add  two  ounces  of  copperas, 
and  two  gi\llons  of  sig  ;  and  handle  with  the  dye 
hot  till  your  colour  pleases. 


53^/.  FOR  SMOKE  BROW^. 

TO  twenty  j'ards  of  cloth,  take  six  pounds  of 


dyer's  companiox.  39 

fustick  chips,  and  three  pounds  of  ground  cam- 
wood, boil  well  tillthe  strengdiis  well  out ;  then 
run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add  three  and  an 
half  pounds  of  coarse  madder  ;  let  it  simmer 
twenty  minutes  ;  then  run  your  cloth  half  an 
hour  ;  then  add  half  a  pound  of  copperas,  and 
handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


Sith  FOR  LIVER  BROWjW 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth?  take  eight  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  and  two  pounds  of  red- wood 
chips,  boil  well  one  hour,  and  run  your  cloth 
forty  minutes  ;  then  add  four  pounds  of  muH, 
or  coarse  madder,  and  two  quarts  of  rotten  wood 
of  oak,  boil  moderately,  and  run  your  cloth  one 
hour ;  then  add  six  or  eight  ounces  of  copperas, 
^d  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


55tn.  FOR  OLIVE  BROWJW. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  fivepounda 
offijstick  chips,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  one 
hour,  then  add  one  bushel  of  butternut  bark  ; 
boil  well,  but  moderately,  one  hour ;  then  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  or  till  the  strength  is  vvell 
©ut  of  the  dye  ;  then  take  the  bark  and  chips 
out  of  the  dye,  and  add  six  ounces  of  copperas, 
and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


56M.  FOR  OLIVE  BRO  WJSf. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pounds  ^if 
fustick  chips,  and  one  pound  of  logwood,  boil 


40  dyer's  companion. 

well,  and  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour;  then  adcl 
one  pound  of  madder,  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour, 
tlien  run  your  cloth  as  before  ;  then  add  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  chymick  or  blueing,  stir  and 
mix  it  well  with  the  dye,  and  run  your  cloth 
twenty  minutes  ;  then  add  one  and  an  half  pounds 
of  logwood,  and  one  gallon  of  sig  ;  run  your 
cloth  as  before,  add  six  ounces  of  copperas,  and 
handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


57th.  FOR  OLIVE  BROWJV. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  seven  poundJs 
Dffustick  chips,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  log- 
wood, and  half  a  pound  of  madder  ;  boil  well 
one  hour,  then  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  add 
half  a  pound  of  chvmick  or  blueing,  and  run 
your  eloth  twenty  rninutes;  then  add  two  quarts 
of  sig,  and  run  again  as  before  ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour 
pleases. 


58tb.  FOR  Ji  LIGHT  SJ^'UFF  BROTVM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  and  four  pounds  of  red- wood 
or  Nicaragua  ;  boil  well  an  hour  and  a  half,  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ailum  ;  run  your 
cloth  thirty  minutes,  then  air  and  run  again  till 
the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye  ;  then  add  one 
gallon  of  sig,  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour,  then 
take  one  peck  of  sogt  scraped  from  the  chimney, 
put  it  into  a  tub,  and  put  two  pails  full  of  your 
dye  to  it ;  stir  it  well  together,  and  let  it  stand 
and  settle  ;  then  pour  off  the  liquor  moderately, 


-dyer's  companiok.  41 

and  add  it  to  your  dye  ;  run  your  cloth,  and 
handle  till  your  colour  suits. 


S9/A.  FOR  SJVUFF  BROWjV. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  four  pounds  of 
fustick  chips,  a; id  boil  uell  ;  then  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  allum,  and  ruii  your  cloth  half  an 
iiour  ;  add  five  pounds  of  red-uood,  boil  well, 
and  then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum  ;  run  your 
cloth  as  before  tlH  the  strength  is  wtW  out  of 
your  dye,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  argal, 
and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


mth.  FOR  DARK  SJ^UFF  BROW^. 

TG  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pounds  of 
fustick  chips,  and  boil  well,  then  add  a  quarter 
of  a  poiuid  of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  one  hour, 
then  add  two  pouuds  of  ground  camwood,  and 
one  and  an  half  pounds  of  madder,  and  let  it 
simmer  h^vlf  an  hour  ;  run  your  cloth  one  hour, 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  copperas,  or  more,  if 
the  colour  is  not  dark  enough  ;  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 


e\st.  FOR  SJVUFF  BROWjY. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  quarters 
of  a  bushel  of  butternut  bark,  and  three  quarters 
of  a  bushel  of  walnut  bark,  boil  well  one  hour, 
but  moderately  ;  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then 
if  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  bark  and  dye, 
K 


take  tlie  bark  out  oftlie  dye,  and  add  one  pound 
of  copperas  to  sadden  vvidi ;  run  your  clodi 
three  quarters  of  an  hour,  air  and  rince  your 
cloth  and  shift  your  liojior  from  your  copper, 
wash  clean  and  fill  widi  fair  water;  then  add 
four  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  and  then 
add  half  a  pound  of  allum  :  run  your  cloth  half 
an  hour;  then  add  live  pounds  of  red- wood 
chips,  boil  one  hour,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  three  quarters 
of  an  hour  ;  let  it  steep,  and  run  till  the  strength 
is  well  out  of  the  dje.  To  sudden,  take  one 
galloa  of  sig,  and  handle,  &c. 


62d.  FOR  SjYUFF  BROW^,^ 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  pound  of 
allum,  boil,  and  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then 
slift  your  liquor  from  your  copper,  and  fill  with 
fair  water ;  then  add  five  pounds  of  fustick,  boil 
well  till  the  strength  is  well  out,  then  run  your 
cloth  thirty  minutes;  then  add  one  bubhel  of 
butternut  bark,  and  five  pounds  of  sumac  ber- 
ries, boil  moderatdy  one  hour,  and  then  run 
yoiir  cloth  forty  minutes  ;  then  add  six  ounces 
of  aquafortis,  killed  with  powter,  as  descril>ed 
before  in  receipt  No.  18;  run  your  cloth  with 
the  dye  boiling  one  hour,  and  the  colour  will 
be  done. 


ezd.  FOR  SAVFF  BROWM 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  boil  u-cU,  and  add  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  thirty  min- 


BYiER  S   C0MPAN10J7.  43' 

utcs,  then  add  four  pounds  of  red- wood  chips  or 
two  pounds  of  ground  camwood  ;  boil  well,  and 
run  your  cloth  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of  the 
dye  ;  then  add  one  gallon  of  sig,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  logwood,  and  an  ounce  of  verdigrease, 
prepared  as  in  receipt  4th  ;  boil  well,  run  your 
cloth  twenty  minutes,  then  add  two  ounces  of 
copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pkai^cs. 


64M.  FOR  SJ^'UFF  £ROW^\ 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  eight  and  an 
half  pounds  of  fu stick  chips,  four  pounds  of 
coarse  madder,  and  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of 
logwood  ;  boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well  out 
of  the  dye-wood,  but  not  fast ;  or  the  madder 
may  be  omitted  till  the  strergth  is  boiled  out  of 
the  logwood  and  fustick,  and  then  let  it  simmer 
a  short  time  ;  then  add  six  ounces  of  allum,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  air,  and  run  i.gain,  till 
the  strength  is  well  out  of  the  dye ;  then  add 
half  a  pound  of  copperas  to  sadden,  or  more  if 
it  is  not  dark  enough;  and  handle  till  your  co- 
lour pleases. 


C3f/;.  FOR  BAT.WIjYG  BROWX. 

TO  twent}'  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  •^^^^c  an 
half  pounds  of  fustick,  and  four  pounds  of  good 
logwood,  boil  well,  and  then  add  one  and  an 
half  pounds  of  good  madder,  and  six  ounces  of 
allum  ;  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour,  then  run  your 
cloth  one  hour  ;  add  eight  or  ten  ounces  of  cop- 
peras, and  one  quart  of  lant,  tiien  run  and  han- 
Uk  till  youi"  colour  pleases. 


4"4  dyer's    COJIPANIOIf. 

♦  If  you  wish  to  alter  the  shade  of  this  colour, 
you  may  add  five  or  six  pounds  of  logwood,  and 
less  fustick,  and  you  may  have  tlie  colour  to 
suit  your  fancy. 


i6;/i.  1^0 R  SLATE  BROW^". 

TO  twenty  ynrds  of  cloth,  take  one  bushel  of 
butternut  bark,  boil  well  and  run  your  cloth  one 
hour;  then  take  out  the  biirk,  and  add  half  a 
pound  of  copperas ;  run  twenty  minutes,  air, 
and  run  again,  and  add  more  copperas  if  it  is  not 
<I;.rk  enough ;  for  it  requires  to  be  vevy  dark. 
"When  dark  enough,  shift  your  copper,  scour 
olt  an,  and  rince  your  cloth  ;  fill  with  fair  water^ 
}i<  ;;t  hot,  then  add  three  ounces  of  compound  or 
blueing;  run  your  cloth  twenty  minutes,  air, 
■and  if  your  colour  is  not  blue  enough,  add  a  lit- 
tle more  blueing  ;  and  if  it  is  not  dark  enough, 
and  the  colour  grows  ligliter,  then  add  four  or 
jix  ounces  of  logwood,  and  one  ounce  of  blue 
vitriol ;  and  handle  till  it  suits  your  fancy. 


er/A.  FOR  DOVE  OR  LEAD  £ROWA\ 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  half  a  peck  of 
diesnut  or  maple  bark,  and  two  ounces  of  log. 
wood,  boil  well,  then  add  tu'o  ounces  of  cop- 
peras, andalittlecompound  nr blueing,  (sayhaif 
an  ounce)  and  stir  your  dye  well  together  ;  run 
your  cloth  twenty  minutes ;  then  if  you  find 
your  colour  wants  altering,  it  may  be  done  by 
varying  thus  ; — If  it  is  not  dark  enough,  add  a 
little  more-  coppenss — if  not  bint-  enough,  add  a 
little  more  blueing — if  not  bright  enough,  add  a 


uyer's  compaktion-.  45 

little  more  logwood  ;  run  again,  and  if  it  requires 
nothing,  your  colour  will  be  finished.  Silk  may 
be  dyed  in  this. 


68th.  FOR  FEARL  OR  SILVER  GREY.       - 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  fcftjr  quarts  of 
wlieat  bran,  put  it  in  a  bag,  and  fill  your  copper 
witli  fair  water,  and  boil  tlx^  pudding  an  hour 
and  a  half;  then  take  it  out,  let  it  drain,  and 
squeeze  it  as  dry  as  5^ou  can  ;  then  add  two 
ounces  of  allum,  let  it  boil,  and  skim  olF  the 
scum  that  will  rise,  then  run  your  clotii  one  hour; 
add  four  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  put  them  i^ 
a  bag,  and  boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well  out, 
then  take  the  bag  of  logwood  out  of  the  dye,  if 
you  do  not,  it  vviil  spot  the  cloth  ;  run  your  cloth 
thirty  minutes,  then  add  half  an  ounce  of  blue 
vitrirjj,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 

It  requires  care  with  this  colour,  as  well  as  all 
otlier  light  colours,  that  you  do  not  let  the  cloth 
touch  any  thing  that  will  spot  it,  for  there  is  not 
much,  if  any,  remedy  for  a  light  colour  when 
spotted ;  and  all  light  colours  should  i^e  dried 
with  the  backside  to  the  sun  ;  for  the  sun  is  apt 
to  inj.ure  the  colour. 


69/A.  FOR  LIGHT  BROWjV. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  half  a  peck  of 
hemlock  bark,  with  the  moss  taken  olf*  and  two 
ounces  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  riin  jotir 
cloth  twenty  minutes,  then  add  two  ounces  of 
copperas,  aiid  hiuidle  till  your  colour  pleases-. 
E  2 


•15  jdyer's  companion-, 

70M.  FOR  ASH  BROW J^, 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  quarts 
of  white  ash  bark,  three  ounces  of  logwood  chips, 
boil  well,  run  your  cloth  twenty  minutes  :  then 
add  three  ounces  of  copperas,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 


^Isf.  POR^DRAB  BROWA\ 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  a  half  peck  o£ 
iiesnut  or  maple  bark,  green  or  dry,  two  pounds 
of  fustick  chips,  and  two  ounces  of  logwood 
cliips  :  boil  well,  then  add  one  ounce  of  com- 
pound of  blueing,  run  your  cloth  twenty  min- 
iites :  then  add  two  ounces  of  copperas,  and. 
}iandle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


72d.  FOR  DRAB. 

TAKE  chesnut,  black  birch,  and  yellow  oaM 
ijark,  half  a  peck  of  each,  boil  well,  run  your 
cloth,  then  add  three  ounces  of  copperas;  and 
h^indle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


7Zd.  FOR  DRAB. 

TAKE  one  qviarter  of  a  pound  of  nutgalls, 
made  hne,  thenone  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fustick, 
b'>il  '  cU,  run  your  cloth  ;  then  add  half  an  ounce 
of  blue  vitriol,  two  ounces  of  copperas ;  run 
your  cl  th  fiftten  minutes,  then  add  half  a  gill  of 
oil  of  Vitriol  and  one  ounce  of  blueing,  and  stir 


dyer's  companion.  47 

it  well  with  the  dye,  run  your  oloth^.and  handle 
till  your  colour  suits. 


74r/;.  FOR  DRAB. 

TAKE  six  ounces  of  nutgalls,  pulverizedv 
three  ounces  of  the  flour  of  brimstone,  four 
ounces  of  alium — put  them  in  fair  water,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour  ;  then  sadden^  with  black 
float,  and  handle  till  your  colour  suits. 


tSth.  FOR  DRAB. 

TAKE  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  fustick,  one' 
pound  of  logwood,  one  quart  of  rotten  wood  of 
oak,  boil  well,  then  add  onehalf  pound  of  m ad- 
der, and  four  ounces  of  alluin,  boil,  run  "your 
cloth  twenty  minutes ;  then  add  three  ounces  of 
copperas  and  one  quart  of  sig,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 


7&th.  FOR  DRAB. 

TAKE  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  fustick 
©hips,  bix  ounces  of  logwood,  boil  well;  then 
add  one  quarter  of  a  pour.d  of  allum,  run  your 
cloth  thirty  minutes  ;  then  add  three  ounces  of 
Copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 

77/A.  FOR  FOREST  CLOTH: 

TAKE  two  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  six 


48  dyer's  companion. 

ounces  of  logwood,  boil  well,  then  add  seven 
ounces  ofchymick,  run  your  cloth  twenty  min- 
utes ;  then  add  three  ounces  of  good  madder, 
two  ounces  of  red  tartar,  made  fine — let  it  sim- 
mer fifteen  minutes,  and  run  your  cloth  twenty 
minutes  :  tiicn  add  one  gallon  of  sig,  or  lant,  and 
three  ounces  of  copperas,  and  handle  till  your 
colour  pleases. 


7Sr/;.  FOR  LIVER  DRJD. 

TAKE  one  pound  of  fustick  chips,  three 
pounds  of  rotten  wood  of  Oiik,  three  ounces  of 
barwood,  two  ounces  of  logwood  chips,  one 
pound  of  madder,  boil  well,  runyoiir  cloth  tvA^en- 
ty  minutes  ;  then  add  six  ounces  of  filings  of  iron, 
boil  vyell,  run  your  cloth  fifteen  minutes  :  then 
add  six  ounces  of  logwood,  and  five  ounces  of 
copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases* 


79th.  FOR  LIGHT  LIVER  DRAB. 

TAKE  two  ounces  of  blue  galls,  one  ounce 
of  logwood,  tv.'o  ounces  of  ailum,  one  ounct  of 
cream  of  tartar,  and  two  ounces  of  madder  :  run 
your  cloth  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  one  ounce 
of  copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


80M.  FOR  A  MADDER  DRAB. 

TAKE  three  pounds  of  good  madder,  one 
pound  of  fustick,  let  it  simmer  one  h(Hir  ;  then 
add  two  ounces  of  alium,  run  your  cloth  half  an, 


dyer's    COMPAKl05f.  4'9 

liDur  ;  t^en  add  one  pound  six  ounces  of  fi]ing$ 
of  iron,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  ;  then  add  three, 
ounces  of  logwood,  and  handle  till  your  colour 
pleases. 


S\st.  FOR  A  GREE^r  DRAB. 

TAKE  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  fu stick., 
one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  logwood  chips,  boil 
well,  iht  11  addhull  a  pound  of  allum,  two  ounces 
of  blueing  :  mix  it  well  with  the  dye,  run  your 
cloth,  thirty  minutes  ;  then  add  one  ounce  of 
copperas,  and  handle  till  your  colour  suiti 
your  fancy. 


82f/.  FOR  J  REDDISH  DRJB. 

TAKE  three  ounces  of  allum,  half  a  pound 
of  fustick,  six  ounces-  of  logwood  chips,  two 
ounces  of  madder,addtwo  ounces  of  cam woodj 
one  and  an  half  pints  of  rotten  '.vood  of  oak  ;  boil 
i\ell  half  an  hour,  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  air, 
sadden  with  jhree  ounces  of  copperas :  aud 
handle,  till  your  colour  pieases*^ 


83-d.  FOR  REDDISH  DRJB. 

TAKE  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  fustick, 
boil  well;  then  add  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
allum,  run  your  cloth  boiling,  one  hour,  then 
air  and  rince  and  shift  the  liquor  from  your  cop- 
per, fill  with  fair  water  ;  then  add  three  and  an 
hall  pounds  of  good  mndc'tr,  two  ounces  of  cam- 
Wood,  let  it  simmer,  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  run 


"50  dyer's  companion:. 

your  cloth  t  .veiity  miiHitcs,  then  add  two  ounces 
of  filings  of  iron,  and  handle  till  your  colour 
pleases* 


8it/t.  FOR  LIGHT  DR^B. 

TAKE  five  ounces  of  fustick  chips,  two 
©uncei>ofgoodmaddfr,two  ounces  of  allum,  boil 
Tvell,  run  your  cloth  twenty  minutes  ;  then  had- 
dai  with  two  ounces  of  copperas,  and  handle 
till  your  colour  pleast-s. 


B5th.  FOR  YELLOW  DRAB. 

TAKE  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  fustick^ 
two  ounces  of  madder,  two  ounces  of  logwood, 
boil  well;  then  add  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
allum,  run  your  cloth  one  hour  ;  then  sadden 
with  two  ounces  of  CJ^^peras,  and  handle  till: 
your  colour  pleases. 


Uth.    FOR  A  DARK  YELLOW  DRAB; 

TAKE  two  pound  of  fustick  chips,  five 
ounces  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  then  add 
five  ounces  of  madder  and  one  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  allum,  run  your  cloth  thirty  minutes, 
then  add  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  copperas,  and 
handle  till  jour  colour  pleases. 


B7th.     FOR  A  FOREST  BROWjV. 

TAKE  six  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  boil  well; 


DVER'S    COMFAiVI0>f.  51 

then  add  two  ounces  ofallum,  run  j'our  cloth 
fifteen  minutes;  then  add  two  and  an  half  pounds 
of  logwood,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  thirty  min- 
utes, then  sadden  till  your  colour  suits,  with  six 
ounces  of  copperas. 


-BSih.     FOR  A  DARK  FOREST  BROWN. 

TAKE  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  logwood, 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  red  argal,  and  three 
quartersof  apound  of  ailum,  boil  well,  run  your 
cloth  one  hoi^,  boiling  ;  then  add  four  pounds 
of  good  fusticx  chips,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth 
half  an  hour,  and  handle  till  your  colour  i^eases* 


S9//i.     FOR  PARIS  MUD 

TAKE  your  cloth,  and  dye  it  a  bright  lively 
blue,  but  not  deep  ;  then  rince  your  cloth,  and 
iill  your  copper  with  finr  water  ;  then  add  six 
pounds  of  stone  rag,  or  the  moss  of  stone,  boil 
well,  run  your  cloth  one  hour  ;  then  add  tvvo 
ounces  of  copperns,  and  one  quart  of  sig,  and 
handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


90rA.   FOR  A  RAVEN  COLOUR. 

TO  twenty  yaixls  of  cloth,  take  two  quarts 
of  wheat  bran,  wet  with  vinegar;  let  it  stand 
two  days  and  sour,  then  fill  your  copper  with 
fair  water,  put  the  bran  into  a  bag,  boil  well 
one  hour ;  then  take  out  the  bag  and  let  it 
drain,  then  add  one  pound  of  niLfddcr  and  on^ 


52  dyer's  companion. 

pound  of  allum  ;  run  your  cloth  one  and  an 
half  hours,  boiling :  then  air  and  fold  it  up 
smooth,  and  wrap  it  up  close,  and  let  it  lie  twen- 
ty-four hours  ;  then  rince,  and  shift  the  liquor 
from  your  copper,  fill  with  fair  water,  then  add 
eight  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well  till  the 
strength  is  well  out ;  then  run  your  cloth  one 
hour ;  then,  if  you  find  it  necessary,  add  more 
logwood — if  not,  then  add  one  quarter  of  a 
poi^nd  of  copperas,  and  one  gallon  of  lant,  and 
handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 

If  your  colour  is  not  dark  enough,  you  may 
use  a  little  ashes,  put  with  sig  ;  and  take  the  lie 
and  put  in  the  dye,  with  a  little  copperas,  and 
run  again. — Lie  and  sig  has  the  same  eflfect, 
and  potash  or  pearlash. 


our.  FOR  CROW,  WITH  COPPERAS, 

ID  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  and  an 
half  pounds  of  copperas,  fill  your  copper  with 
water,  heat  boiling  hot ;  then  run  your  cloth 
twenty  minutes,  air,  and  run  again  as  before, 
then  air  and  rince  your  cloth,  shift  the  liquor 
from  your  copper,  and  rince,  fill  with  f\ur  water, 
heat,  and  add  four  pounds  of  logwood  chips, 
boil  well,  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour,  then  air 
and  run  again  as  before ;  then,  if  your  colour  is 
not  dark  enough,  add  one  ounce  of  blue  vitriol, 
run  again,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


~C2rf.  FOR  CROW,   WITH  BLUEING 
COMPOUND. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth — fill  your  ccpper 


dyer's  companion.  to 

with  lair  \vater,  heat  boiling  hot,  then  add  one 
pound  of  blueing,  (made  as  in  receipt  No.  6,  for 
Prussian  blue)  add  this  at  twice  or  three  times, 
run  your  cloth  twenty  minutes  at  a  time,  air  and 
stir  the  blueing  well  with  the  dj'^c,  before  the 
eloth  is  dipped  in  the  dye;  then  add  two  pounds 
of  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  then  add  one  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  verdigrease  pulverized  and  dis- 
solved in  vinegar,  as  in  receipt  No.  4  ;  then  run 
your  cloth  half  an  hour,  then  add  half  a  pound 
of  copperas,  run  again,  air,  and  if  it  is  not  dark 
enough,  add  more  copperas,  and  handle  till  your 
colour  suits  your  fancy. 


93d.  jPOR  crow,  with  blue  riTRlOL. 

TO  twenty-  yards  of  cloth  — Fill  your  coppef 
with  water,  heat  scalding  hot,  take  half  a  pound 
of  blue  vitriol,  let  it  dissolve,  run  your  cloth  for- 
ty minutes,  in  two  parts  :  then  add  five  pounds 
of  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  thir- 
ty minutes,  air  and  run  again,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 


94th.    FOR  BLACK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth — Fill  your  copper 
with  water,  heat,  and  add  three  pounds  of  cop- 
peras ;  heat  near  boiling,  ran  j'our  cloth  one 
hour,  then  air  and  run  again,  boiling  the  time 
as  before  :  air  and  rince,  and  shift  the  liquor 
from  your  copper  (rince  your  copper  clean j  and 
fill  with  water,  and  add  six  pounds  of  logwood 
chips,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  thirty  or  forty 
minutes,  let  it  boil  again  fifteen  or  twenty  min- 
lUtes,  then  rao  again  as  before;-  then  add 
F 


54  dyer's  C06IPANI0N. 

one.  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blue  vitriol,  run  your 
cloth,  boiling,  three  quarters  of  an  hour  ;  tlien, 
if  it  is  not  black  enough,  run  again,  and  handle 
till  your  colour  pleases. 

This  is  the  best  form  to  dye  a  black,  I  think, 
in  the  world ;  it  is  equal  to  any  for  brightness, 
and  without  the  least  danger  of  rotting  the  cloth; 
and  the  colour  is  lasting  and  permanent  as  a 
blue  or  scarlet. 

It  is  necessary  to  cleanse  the  colour  or  dye 
stuff  well  out  of  the  cloth,  immediately.  First 
rince  in  fair  water,  then  take  a  tub  of  warm  wa- 
ter, sufficient  to  handle,  and  wet  the  before-men- 
tioned quantity  of  cloth  ;  then  add  half  a  pint 
of  the  liquor  of  beef  galls,  mix  it  well  with  the 
•warm  water,  then  handle  your  cloth  in  this  till 
it  is  well  wet,  then  rince  in  water  till  it  is  clean- 
This  is  a  sure  remedy  against  crocking.  The 
beef  gall  may  be  used  in  all  cloths,  in  this  man- 
ner, that  are  liable  to  crock  ;  and  it  will  prevent 
their  crocking,  without  the  least  danger  of  injur- 
ing the  colour. 


95/^.  FOR  BLACK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  pounds 
of  logwood  chips,  one  and  an  half  pounds  of  su- 
mac, of  one  season's  growth,  cut  and  dried : 
boil  well,  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour,  then  add 
one  ounce  of  blue  vitriol,  one  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  nutgalls,  pulverized,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth 
fifteen  minutes :  then  add  one  ounce  of  verdi- 
grease,  pulverized  and  dissolved  in  sig  or  vine- 
gar, as  described  in  receipt  No.  4 :  run  your 
cloth  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  one  pound  oi 
copperas,  handle,  and  if  it  is  not  black,  then  add 
more  copperas;  and  handle  till  your  colom 
pleases. 


DtER's    COMPANION.  ^^ 

9&th.  FOR  BLACK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  six  pounds  of 
logwood  chips,  one  pound  of  dry  alder  bark 
one  and  an  half  pounds  of  sumac,  of  one,  sea- 
son's growth,  well  cured  and  dried,  one  quarta^ 
of  a  pound  of  fu stick,  boil  well  one  hour,  then  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  air  and  run  again  as  before ; 
then  air,  add  one  gallon  of  sig,  and  one  and  an  half 
pounds  of  copperas,  run  your  cloth  twenty  min- 
utes ;  then  if  it  is  not  black,  add  more  copperas, 
and  if  it  is  attended  with  a  rusty  brown,  add  two 
pounds  of  common  good  brown  ashes,  run  your 
cloth,  and  handle  till  the  strength  is  well  out  of 
the  dye. 

Then,  if  it  is  not  black,  shift  your  liquor  from 
5'our  copper,  scour  clean,  rince  your  cloth,  fill 
your  copper  with  fair  water,  then  add  one  pound 
of  logwood  chips,  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  al- 
der bark  and  half  a  pound  of  argal ;  then  boil 
Avell,  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  sadden  with 
copperas,  what  is  necessary,  and  handle.  But 
if  it  continues  of  a  rusty  cast,  which  logwood 
causes,  add  one  gallon  of  sig,  or  more  ashes, 
that  which  is  most  convenient,  and  handle  till 
your  colour  pleases. 

N.  B.  Silk  may  be  dyed  in  this  dye.  It  is 
necessary  to  take  the  same  method  in  cleansing 
as  in  receipt  No.  94,  and  all  other  dark  colours 
that  are  liable  to  crock,  &c. 


S7ih.  FOR  BLACK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  three  quarters 
of  a  pound  of  blue  vitriol,  add  to  fair  water,  boil 
well,  run  your  cloth  three  quarters  of  an  hour ; 
t|?en  add  six  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  and  one 


55  B-yER^s  eoi*rp,vNia?^i& 

pound  of  fustick  chips,  boil  one  hour,  run  y^i' 
cloth  one  hour,  tlien  add  two  ounces  of  verdi- 
grease,  pulverized  and  dissolved  in  vinegar,  as 
before  described,  and  one  gallon  of  sig,  run  yoMii 
cioth  twenty  minutes  ;  then  add  one  pound  of' 
copperas,  and  handle  with  the  dye  boiling,  till 
your  colour  pleases. 


98/A.  IVR  BLjiCK. 

TO  twenty  yards  of  cloth,  take  one  bushel  of 
butternut  or  chesnut  bark,  or  both  mixed  to- 
gether: boil  till  the  strength  is  well  out,  then 
run  your  cloth  one  hour,  then  sadden  with  cop- 
peras till  it  is  quite  dark  ;  then  air  and  rince,  and 
shift  your  copper,  fill  with  fair  water ;  then  add 
four  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  half  a  pound  of 
fustick  chips,  boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well 
out,  then  run  your  cloth  one  hour ;  air,  and  if  it 
is  not  black,  or  near  a  black,  run  again  ;  then 
add  one  pound  of  copperas,  and  one  gallon  of 
-ig ;  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  boiling,  and  han- 
He  till  5' our  colour  suits  your  fiincy. 


The  preceding  Receipts  are  calculated  for 
twenty  5'ards  of  fulled  cloth ;  but  thin  cloth  may 
be  dyed  as  well  as  thick,  and  all  kinds  of  woollen 
goods,  as  5'arn,  woo),  &c.  Silks  may  be  dyed 
in  most  of  the  dyes  before  mentioned  ;  but  the 
dye  requires  to  be  stronger  for  silk  than  for 
w^oollen.  Those  dyes  that  will  not  answer  for 
silk,  I  shall  mention  hereaftor. 


I  57  J 

RECEIPTS 

FOR  COTTON  AND  LINEN, 

COLD  AND  HOT. 

99/A.  BLUE — Fon  Cotton,  LiNsif,  YARiff  ifd 

TO  a  tub  that  will  hold  thirty- six  pails  of 
water,  take  twelve  pounds  of  stone-lime, 
slack  it,  put  it  in,  stir  it  ten  or  twelve  minutes ; 
then  add  six  pounds  of  copperas,  dissolved  with 
hot  water,  stir  it  as  before ;  then  add  six  pounds 
of  indigo,  ground  line,  stir  it  incessantly  two 
hours  ;  for  three^lays,  stir  it  three  or  four  times 
in  a  day,  then  let  it  stand  fifteen  or  twenty  hours 
before  the  yarn  is  put  in,  lay  sticks  across  the  " 
tub,  to  hang  the  yarn  on,  that  it  may  not  reach 
the  bottom';  move  liic  yarn  round  e\ei'y  fitieeu 
minutes.  Six  hours  is  sufficient  for  ll^  first  co- 
louring of  the  dye  ;  as  the  dye  grows  weaker, 
longer  time  is  required  :  rince  and  dry  it  in  the 
shade. 

When  the  dye  is  reduced,  then  recruit  in  man- 
ner and  form  as  in  setting,  only  when  there  is  a 
great  quantity  of  sediment  at  the  bottom,  then 
the  dye  must  be  dipped  off,  leaving  the  sedi- 
ment in  the  bottom  ;  then  throw  away  the  sedi- 
ment, shift  the  dye  back,  and  if  the  tub  is  not 
full  enough,  then  add  more  water,  (rain  water  is 
required  in  this  dye  in  setting  and  recruiting). 
The  dj'e  must  not  be  worked  at  too  soon  after 
recruiting,  or  sitting,  and  it  must  not  be  crowd- 
ed too  full  in  colouring,  but  judgniQit  mu<  bc^ 
used  by  the  dy«r,  &c. 

F  2 


58  over's    COMfANIOIC. 

100///.  BLUE— FOR  COTTON  jiND  LlNHy 
COLD. 

TO  set  a  tub  of  twelve  gallons,  take  ten  gal- 
lons of  good  sig,  to  which  add  three  gills  of  spi- 
rits,  one  pound  of  good  indigo,  three  ounces  of 
pearlash,  a  (quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  mad- 
der, and  a  pint  of  wheat  bran  ;  put  tlie  indigo  in 
a  bag,  and  rub  it  in  the  dye  till  the  indigo  is  dis- 
solved, and  stir  the  dye  well  together  with  the 
ingredients ;  let  it  stand  twelve  hours  covered 
close  and  kept  warm,  and  manage  it  in  the  man- 
ner and  form  as  in  receipt  No.  2,  till  the  dye 
eomes  to  work.  After  the  dye  has  come  to 
work,  wet  the  j^arn  in  hot  water,  with  a  littk 
pearlash  in  it ;  let  it  cool,  then  put  it  in  the  dye 
loose ;  let  it  lie  in  the  dye  twelve  honrsj  then 
wring  it  out  and  let  it  air  ;  and  if  it  is  not  dark 
enough,  then  put  it  in  again-  There  ought  to 
be  somethiiig  at  the  bottom  to  keep  the  yarn  off 
of  the  sediment. 

There  may  be  a  saving  in  colouring  cotton  or 
linen,  by  first  colouring  brown  or  purple,  as  I 
filiall  hereafter  mention.  Silk  may  be  dyed  in. 
tills  dye,  but  not  in  the  blue  vat ' 


\OUC.  BLUE— FOR  COTTO.V  JND  LINEN^ 
HOT. 

HEAT  water  sufficient  for  your  yarn,  say  for 
five  pounds  of  cotton  cr  linen  yarn,  take  five 
ounces  of  blue  vitriol,  run  your  yarn  or  let  it  lie 
in  the  dye  one  hour,  then  add  three  pounds  of 
good  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  and  put  in  the 
yarn ;  let  it  lie  one  hour,  then  air  and  add  two 
ounces  of  pearlash,  let  it  lie  thirty  minutes; 
then,  if  it  is  not  dark  enough,  add  a  Utile  bliJt 


dyer's  companion.  59 

vitriol ;  put  it  in  again,  and  you  wil!  have  a  good 
looking  blue,  but  it  will  not  be  so  lasting  a  co- 
lour as  the  two  forms  before  mentioned. 


\02d.    To  take  the  Colour  out  of  Silk^  Cottony  or  Linen ^ 
nvhen  sfiotttd  or  another  colour  is  ivi(-hed.—-Hot. 

TO  one  barrel  of  hot  water,  take  half  a  gill  of 
oil  of  vitriol,  put  in  the  goods  ;  run  them  fifteen 
minutes,  air  and  rince  them  in  fair  water  imme- 
diately, lest  it  should  endanger  the  goods. 

I  have  reduced  black  without  injuring  it,  an^ 
made  a  yellow  of  it  m  this  form. 


\02d.  FOR  GREE.Y  O.V  SILJC-^/ror. 

TAKE  t\yo  pounds  of  fif stick,  boil  well,  till 
the  strength  is  well  out,  then  take  out  the  chips, 
and  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum,  and  sixt 
ounces  of  blueing,  prepared  as  in  receipt  No.  6  ; 
stir  it  with  the  dye  till  it  is  well  mixed,  then 
handle  your  silk  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  :  stir 
it  lively,  ?nd  keep  it  open  and  -loose  in  the  dye  ; 
Csilk.should  never  be  wenchtd  as  woollen  goods) 
air,  and  ifnot  detp  enough,  add  a  little  more  blue- 
ing ;  and  ifnot  yellow  enough,  then  a  little  allum, 
run  again  fifteen  minutes  ;  tlien  olr,  iind  if  the 
colour  suits,  rince  immediately.  The  dye  ought 
to  be  so  fixed  as  to  colour  quick,  and  there  must 
not  be  a  great  quantity  coloured  at  once  in  a 
dye  :  for  the  dye  will  get  tco  strong  n  ith  the 
vitriol,  which  will  endanger  the  silk  ;  bat  with 
proper  care  it  may  be  coloured  without  any 
danger. 


60  dyer's  companion. 

It)4M.  GREE.V  OJ^  COTTON  OR  LIKEN.—HOT, 

TO  set  a  dye,  take  two  pounds  of  logwood, 
and  one  pound  of  fustick  chips,  boil  well,  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allum,  and  run 
your  goods  one  hour ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  blue  vitriol,  run  your  goods  thirty 
minutes,  then  add  two  ounces  of  pearlash  ;  run 
again,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


IG5^A.    YELLOW  OJV  COTTON  AND  LINMM-- 
HOT. 

TAKE  two  pounds  of  the  leaves  or  peelings 
of  onions  that  are  clean  and  clear  from  dirt  ;  put 
them  in  fair  water,  boil  well,  then  add  half  a 
pound  of  allum,  run  jour  goods  one  hour,  and 
you  will  have  a  good  colour. 


l^StfH^ORJNGE    COLOUR    ON  COTTON  J jYD 

LINEN. 

TAKE  two  pounds  of  €opperas,  dissolve  it 
in  hot  water,  and  iiave  the  liquor  very  strong  ; 
let  it  stand  till  nearly  cold,  run  your  goods  one 
hour,  then  dip  it  in  good  lye,  handle  till  perfect- 
ly wet ;  then  let  it  drain,  and  hang  it  in  the  sun 
fifteen  minutes,  and  the  sun  will  turn  the  colour ; 
conlinue  to  manage  in  this  manner,  dipping  it 
in  the  dye  and  hanging  it  in  the  sun,  till  dark ' 
enough. 


\Q7ih.  ELESH-COLOUR  ON  COTTON  AND  LIN- 
EN.^B02\ 

TAKE  one  and  an  half  bus>hels  of  black-birch 


dyer's  companion.  '61 

bark,  and  half  a  bushel  of  hemlock  bark  boil 
well ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  allun^ 
Rnd  two  ounces  of  pearlash  ;  run  your  cloth  0» 
S'oods  till  your  colour  pleases. 


lOSlh.  R£D  O^N'COTTOA'OR  LL\'Ejy^COLii, 

TAKE  six  pounds  of  Nicaragua  chips,  boil 
ihcm  till  the  strength  is  well  out ;  then  add  half 
a  pound  of  allum,  and  let  it  stand  till  cold  ;  rufi 
your  cloth  or  yam  in  hot  water,  with  a  littlC 
pearlash  in  it  ;  then  air,  and  put  it  in  the  dy^^  _ 
irequendy  handling  over  till  the  colour  suits. 


109th.  eOTTO.YAJSTD  LINEJ^ REDISH BROIVW. 

HOT. 

TAKE  butternut,  sassafras,  black  alder,  and 
hemlock  bark,  a  bushel  of  each  ;  boil  well,  run 
yourgoods  one  hour,  then  add  two  pailfulls  of  lie, 
era  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pearlash;  run  your 
cloth  or  goods,  and  handle  till  your  colour"' 
pleases. 


WOth.  FOR  PLUMB 'CO  LOUR  OR  PURPLE^  ON 
SILKS.~HOr. 

TAKE  six  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  and 
three  pounds  of  redwood  chips,  boil  weli  till  the 
strength  is  well  out  of  the  chips  ;  then  add  one 
pound  of  allum,  and  run  your  goods  one  hour  ; 
then  add  one  ounce  of  verdigrease,  made  fine 
•ai)d  dissolved  in  sig,  described  before,  and  ad^l . 


<i2  dyer's    COMPANION. 

one  gallon  of  sig ;  run  yonr  goods  thirty  or  foi»- 
ty  minutes,  and  if  your  colour  is  not  dark  enough, 
then  add  a  little  blue  vitriol,  and  handle  till  you^: 
colour  pleases- 


I  nth.  PVR  PIS  OjV  cottoj/  or  ii^en.^ 

COLD. 

TAKE  three  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  boil 
well,  till  the  strength  is  well  out  and  the  dye  very 
strong,  (for  all  cotton  dyes  require  to  be  strong;) 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  allum,  and  one  ounce 
of  pearlash  ;  let  it  stand  and  get  cold,  dip  your 
goods  into  hot  water,  air,  and  put  them  into  the 
dye  loose,  handle  over  once  in  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  ;  let  them  lie  in  the  dye  in  this  manner 
till  the  colour  suits.  It  must  be  observed  in 
dying  cottons  and  linens  in  cold  dyes,  that  the 
air  and  sun  are  very  necessary  to  brighten  and 
strike  the  colour  in.  Let  the  goods  lie  in  the 
air  and  sun,  three  or  four  times  in  the  course  of 
your  colouring,  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  at  a 
time.  The  preparation  is  suitable  for  blue,  as 
mentioned  in  receipt  99th. 


1 1 1th,     BRO  WN  O A*  CO  TTOjVJJ^D 
LlJVEJ\f.-^COLD. 

TAKE  of  maple  or  white  oak  bark,  one 
bushel,  boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well  out, 
then  take  the  bark  out,  and  have  dye  sufficient 
to  wet  the  goods  ;  then  add  one  pound  of  cop- 
peras, let  it  stand  till  neaily  cold  ;  run  your 
goods  in  hot  water  with  a  little  pearlash  first  ; 
tjien  put  it  in  the  dye.  and  handle  over  once  in 


-dyer's  comIpaniox,  63 

tea  or  fifteen  minutes,  and  air,  as  described  be- 
fore in  receipt  llOtli ;  and  handle  in  this  manner 
tillthe  colour  suits ;  then  rince  clean.  This  is  the 
brown  mentioned  in  receipt  99th,  for  a  saving 
in  blue  ;  but  I  prefer  the  purple  ;  but  when  co- 
loured blue,  after  it  is  dry,  it  is  necessarj'  to 
scald  it  in  salt  and  water,  to  bind  the  colour- 


113^/i.  nOFE  ON LEJD-COLOUR,ON  COTTO'!^ 
OR  LINEN—COLD. 

TAKE  one  pound  of  niitgalls  pulverized, 
boil  in  water  one  hour,  then  add  two  pounds  of 
copperas ;  let  it  stand  till  cold,  and  have  liquor 
enough  to  wet  the  goods ;  (it  rf  quires  to  be 
very  strong)  put  your  goods  in  ihc  liquor,  and 
handle  once  in  five  or  six  minutes,  wring  and 
air  once  in  half  an  hour ;  dip  m  this  manner 
three  hours,  then  rince.  This  liquor  ought  to 
be  put  in  a  tub,  and  another  liqi>or  prepared 
in  another  tub,  in  this  manner,  viz. — take  six 
pounds  of  sumac,  of  one  year's  growth,  cut 
and  well  dried  with  the  leaves  all  on,  in  the 
summer  season,  and  three  pounds  of  logwood 
chips,  boil  well  till  the  strength  is  well  cut,  thert 
shift  it  in  the  tub^and  let  it  stand  till  cold  ;  thert 
run  your  goods  in  the  same  manner  as  before 
described,  handle  in  this  two  hours  ;  if  the  co- 
lour is  not  then  dark  enough,  run  again  in  the 
copperas  and  galls  liquor,  then  rince  and  rufi 
in  the  logwood  again,  and  handle  in  this  manner 
till  your  colour  suits. 

N.  B.  Cotton  and  linen,  when  dyed  in  cold 
dyes,  must  always  be  wet  and  run  in  hot  water 
half  an  hour,  and  then  aired  ;  and  a  little  pearl- 
ash  is  good  in  the  water,  to  cleanse  the  gopds 
for  colouring,  &c. 


^4  dver^'g  companion. 

Cold  elves  will  remain  good  always  if  iM'OperJy 
j'ecruitcd. 


Hit  A.     OLIVE  ON  CO  TTOK  AXD  LLVEA'. 
COLD. 

TAKE  one  pound  of  nutgalls  pulverized,  put 
them  in  wattr,  boil  one  hour,  then  put  it  in  a 
tub,  then  add  two  pounds  of  copperas,  have  the 
liqui^T  strong,  and  enough  of  it  to  wet  and  covet 
the  goods;  then  dip  in  the  hot  water;  then 
i5tir  the  galls  and  copperas  together,  then  put  in 
your  goods  and  handle  over  once  in  five  min- 
utes, that  no  part  shall  be  confined,  wring  and 
air  every  half  hour  ;  handle  in  this  liquor  two 
hours,  then  rince,  then  add  three  pounds  of  fus- 
tick  and  one  pmmd  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well 
till  the  strength  is  well  out;  then  add  five  ounces 
of  good  madder,  and  two  ounces  of  allum ;  let 
it  simmer  a  few  minutes,  then  shift  the  liquor  into 
a  tub,  and  let  it  stand  till  cold  ;  then  handl 
your  goods  in  the  first  liquor  two  or  three  houis 
till  the  colour  is  well  raised  ;  and  if  it  is  not  dark 
enough,  then  take  two  pounds  of  fu stick,  and 
one  pound  of  logwood,  boil  well ;  let  it  cool,  and 
sadden  with  copperas  as  much  as  is  necessary, 
and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


MSih.  OLIVE  OjV  SILK,  COTTON,  OR 
LLYEjY.—JJOT. 

TAKE  five  pounds  of  fustick,  and  twb 
pounds  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well ;  then  add  a 
quLirtc-r  of  a  pound  of  blue  vitriol,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  allum,  run  your  goods  one  hour ; 
then  add  one  pound  of  copperas,  and  handle  ^ll 


dyer's  companion.  6^ 

'f     ^our  colour  pleases.    If  the  colour  is  not  dark 
*      enough,  you  may  add  more  copperas,  &c. 


.]  1 6th.    LIGHT  OL IVE   ON  CO  TTOJ^  AJ^D 
LINEJsr.—HOT, 

TAKE  four  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  an3 
half  a  pound  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well,  then 
add  two  ounces  of  allum,  and  one  ounce  of 
blue  vitriol ;  then  run  your  goods  till  the  strength 
is  well  out  of  the  dye  ;  then  sadden  with  cop- 
peras to  your  liking,  and  handle  till  your  colour 
pleases. 


I  ^Ith.    SLATE  COLOUR  ON  COTTOJ^AAD 
LJJVEM—HOT. 

TAKE  hot  water,  and  dissolve  one  pound  of 
copperas  ;  run  your  goods  forty  minutes,  then 
air  and  rince,  and  shift  your  liquor  from  your 
copper ;  fill  with  fair  water  ;  then  add  three 
pounds  of  logwood,  boil  well,  run  your  goods 
one  hour,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blue 
vitriol,  and  handle  till  your  colour  pleases. 


118//;.     SLJCK     OM   COTTOAT  AND    LIJ^TEM 
^HOT. 

TAKE  four  pounds  of  good  logwood,  and 
two  pounds  of  fustick  chips,  boil  well ;  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blue  vitriol,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  or  till  die  strength  is  well 
out  of  the  dye,  then  sadden  with  two  pounds  of 
copperas,  and  one  gallon  of  good  old  sig ;  run 
G 


66  DYER*S    COMPANION. 

your  cloth,  and  if  it  is  not  black,  you  must  air 
and  rince,  and  shift  your  liquor  from  your  cop- 
per, and  set  another  dye  in  manner  and  form  as 
the  first,  and  handle  again,  and  depend  on  having 
an  excellent  black  at  last.  But  if  it  is  attended 
with  a  rusty  brownness,  you  may  put  in  one 
quart  of  brown  ashes,  or  two  ounces  of  pearl- 
ash,  and  handle  lively,  which  is  necessary  in^l 
hot  silk;  cotton,  andiinen  dyes. 


1 191L  BLACKOJyCOTTQ.VAMDLmE^''^COLD. 

TAKE  one  pound  of  nutgalls  pulverized, 
boil  in  one  pail  full  of  water  one  hour,  then  add 
two  pounds  of  copperas,  «hift  it  into  a  tub,  and 
add  water  sufficient  to  cover,  and  handle  your 
goods  very  strong ;  then  take  fair  water  and  fill 
your  copper,  add  four  pounds  of  logwood  chips, 
two  pounds  of  sumac  well  dried,  of  one  season's 
growth,  and  one  pound  of  dry  alder  bark,  boil 
well  till  the  strength  is  well  out,  then  dip  off  the 
dye  into  a  tub,  the  chips  remaining  in  the  kettle ; 
let  it  stand  till  cold. 

The  dye  must  be  managed  in  this  manner  ;— 
hrst  run  your  goods  in  hot  water,  with  a  little 
pearlash  in  it;  run  in- this  half  an  hour,  then  air 
and  lay  your  goods  into  the  copperas  and  galls  li- 
quor; handle  over  every  eight  or  ten  min- 
utes, and  air  every  half  hour  ;  handle  in  this  two 
hours,  then  rince  clean  and  lay  it  in  theiogwood 
liquor  ;  handle  as  in  the  other  three  hours,  then 
if  it  is  not  black,  put  water  in  the  copper  upon 
the  chips ;  before  running  in  the  copper,  let  it 
steep  and  cool  again,  and  add  one  pound  of 
copperas  ;  run  in  this  one  hour  ;  but  if  it  has  a 
rusty  brown  appearance,  which  is  occasioned 
l^  the  logwood,  then  add  two  ounces  of  pearU 


dyer's  eoMPANioN.  67 

ashr  or  brown  ashes  will  answer  if  you  have 
no  pearlash  ;  run  in  this  half  an  hour,  then  air 
and  rince  clean,  and  if  it  is  notblack,then  recruit 
the  liquors  and  make  them  stronger,  and  man- 
age as  before  in  the  first  preparation  ;  and  never 
fear  but  you  will  have  a  fine  black. 

After  you  have  rinced  clean,  to  keep  it  from 
crocking,  use  beef  galls,  as  mentioned  in  receipt 
No.  94. 


GE.YERJL  OBSERVATIO.YS. 

COTTON  and  linen  dye  is  the  best  cold  iji 
general ;  for  it  is  almost  impossible  M-ith  me  to 
colour  cotton  and  linen  in  hot  dyes  without  spot- 
ting ;  for  the  cotton,  &c.  are  of  a  cold  deadly 
nature,  and  the  steam  of  the  dye  has  a  bad  effect  on 
goods  of  this  kind.  All  kinds  of  cotton  and  lin- 
en cloths,  yarn  and  thread,  may  be  coloured 
by  following  the  preceding  receipts  for  dying 
cotton  and  linen. 

In  the  receipts  for  dj'ing  silk,  cotton  and  linen, 
I  have  not  specified  any  particular  qnnntity  of 
yards  or  weight.  There  is  so  much  difterence  in 
the  weight  of  goods  of  this  kind,  that  no  rule 
could  be  given  in  yards  ;  and  no  certainty  can 
be  a&xed  to  a  general  rule  of  weight,  be- 
cause of  the  difference  of  the  quality  of  the 
goods.  Silks  differ,  so  do  cottons  and  linens  ;  no 
regular  system  can  therefore  be  adopted.  The 
dyer  is  to  proportion  his  dyes  according  to  the 
receipts,  following  his  judgment  as  the  goods 
vary  ;  and  if  he  closely  pursues  the  directions 
for  proportion  and  management,  he  will  not  find 
a  single  receipt  that  will  not  answer  the  purpose 
designed.  I  shall  hereafter  speak  particularly 
of  the  powers  on  which  the  dyes  depend. 


68  JJYER^S   COMPANION, 

BIRECTIOJVS  FOR  DRESSIJVG  CLOTM. 

IN  dressing  cloth,  there  are  various  forms  in. 
use  with  almost  every  workman  in  the  busi^ 
ness ;  but  I  shall  only  point  out  the  way  which 
I  conceive  to  be  the  best.  There  are  also  differ- 
ent kinds  of  tools  and  utensils  made  use  of, 
which  I  shall  leave  to  the  discretion  of  the  prac*. 
titioner, 

FOR  FULLING  CLOTH, 

CLOTH  to  be  fulled,  should  be  wet  with 
soap  sufficient  to  cleanse  it  of  the  dirt  and  grease, 
then  scoured  clean  and  dried  ;  then  burl  or  pick 
out  all  the  knots  and  specks  that  will  injure 
the  cloth  in  dressing  ;  then  wet  with  soap  so- 
that  the  cloth  will  work  and  turn  lively  in  the 
mill.  Let  proper  attention  be  paid  to  handle  the 
cloths  from  the  mill,  so  as  to  keep  them, 
smooth ;  and  be  cautious  not  to  let  them  grow 
together,  for  it  is  very  hurtful  to  the  cloth,  and 
detrimental  in  dressing.  The  fulling-mill  must  be 
tended  with  care.  When  the  cloths  are  fulled 
sufficiently,  then  scour  clean  from  the  soap  : 
And  if  there  is  any  of  the  first  quality  to  be 
dressed,  then  card  lightly  over,  so  as  to  lay  and 
straighten  the  nap  ;  then  shear  this  nap  off;  then 
take  clothier's  jacks,  and  raise  a  nap  sufficient  to 
cover  the  thread  ;  then  shear  this  off  and  raise 
another  nap  with  teazles.  I  prefer  teazles  to 
any  thing  else  to  raise  a  nap  on  cloth  ;  they  are 
much  milder  and  softer  to  cloth  tlian  jacks ; 
but  vvhere  they  cannot  be  had,  jacks  may  be 
substituted  in  their  place.  After  raising  the 
third  nap,  then  colour  the  cloth  ;  cleanse  it  well 
from  the  dye,  and  lay  the  nap  straight  and  smooth 
out  of  warm  water  with  jacks  that  are  limber ; 


69 

then  dry,  keeping  the  nap  smooth  :  when  dr>', 
first  shear  on  the  back -side,  then  shear  smooth 
and  even  on  the  face  side,  and  as  close  as  you 
can.  When  sheared,  burl  clean,  and  lay  the  nap 
with  a  sand- board  or  brick,  or  brush,  but  not 
with  a  jack  ;  some  erroneously  use  a  jack  ;  a 
jack  is  good  and  necessary  to  raise  a  napi  but 
not  to  lay  it.  Lay  the  nap  smooth  with  the 
sand-board,  and  then  the  cloth  is  fit  fiDr  the  press. 
Have  smooth  papers,  put  it  in  the  press,  let  the 
heat  of  the  plate  be  just  hissing  hot;  screw  it 
moderately  in  the  pressy  for  the  beauty  of  most 
thick  cloths  is  destroyed  by  pressing  too  hard. 
The  beauty  of  thick  cloth  depends  on  dressing 
and  not  on  prepising ;  the  coarser  the  cloth  is,  the 
harder  it  requires  to  be  screwed  ;  all  thick  cloths 
are  not  dressed  alike,  but  according  to  quality, 
some  requiring  once  shearing,  some  twice,  and 
so  on,  to  the  number  of  times  mentioned  before  ; 
six  times  is  sufficient  for  the  first  quality,  man- 
aged as  before  mentioned.  Some  fulled  cloths 
do  not  require  shearing,  which  are  dressed  with 
a  thick  nap,  sufficient  to  cover  the  thread  ;  this 
may  be  raised  vvith  common  wool  and  cotton 
cards  ;  this  khid  of  cloth  is  called  bear-skin  or 
coating.  Bear- skin  should  be  pressed  in  the  cold 
press,  never  in  the  hot-press.  Baize  or  flannels 
should  be  fulled  lightly,  the  grease  and  dirt 
scoured  out  clean  ;  then,  if  it  is  to  be  coloured, 
dye  and  raise  a  nap  with  a  mild  easy  card  or 
jack  and  a  stuffi?d  board,  and  dry  smooth,  and 
press  in  a  cold  press ;  but  if  it  is  to  remain  white, 
raise  a  nap  as  before,  and  dry  smooth  ;  then  have 
a  stove,  or  some  proper  tight  place,  with  con- 
veniences to  hang  the  cloth  up  loose  ;  then,  to 
100  yards  of  flannel,  burn  one  pound  of  sulphur 
or  brimstone  under  the  cloths,  and  it  will  cleanse 
them  from  all  ^pecks  of  dirt,  and  leave  them  as 
wnitc  as  need  be ;  but  when  you  find  it  necessa- 
G2 


70  dyer's  compaitiojt. 

ty,you  may  have  your  copper  cleaned  with  fair 
hot  vvatT.with  a  little  compound  of  blueing  in 
it ;  run  your  cloth  in  this  a  few  minutes,  and 
dry  smooth  ;  put  in  clean  papers,  press  in  the 
cold  press»  &:c.  Sorhe,  when  they  stove  their 
cloth  with  sulphur,  wet  it  in  clean  soap  suds, 
and  hang  the  cloth  or  goods  up  wet ;  but  I  pre- 
fer the  water  with  a  little  blueing,  to  whiten  the 
cloth  before  stoving,  for  it  will  wear  handsomer^ 
and  will  not  grow  yeUovv  so  soon. 


JTOR  THJJ\r  CLOTHS. 

THIN  cloths  should  be  well  coloured,  cleans- 
ed well  from  the  dye,  dried  smooth,  and  press- 
ed double  ;  thin  cloths  require  to  be  much  mois- 
ter  than  thiek  cloths ;  the  press  papers  should  be 
hard,  thin  and  smooth  ;  and  the  press  hotter 
than  for  thick  cloths.  It  must  be  screwed  very 
liard,  for  the  beauty  of  thin  cloth  is  in  the  gloss 
given  by  pressing.  The  heat  of  the  press  should 
be  kept  regular,  and  the  cloth  will  be  smooth^ 
&c. 


TO  DRESS  SILK  AKD  COTTO^\^t^ 

SILK  must  never  be  pressed,  but  cleaned 
well  from  the  dye-stuff,  then  dried  ;  then  dis- 
solve gum  Arabic  in  water,  wet  the  silk 
thoroughly  in  this,  wring  and  squeeze  as  dry  as 
you  can,  so  as  it  shall  not  drip  :  then  strain  it 
out  smooth  every  way,  and  dry.  This  will  finish 
tlie  silk  dressing. 

Cottons.  Some  do  not  require  to  be  pressed, 
as  velvets,  corduroys,  and  similar  €loths .;  tjiej^ 


DYER^S   COMPAWIOir;  71 

require  only  to  have  the  nap  laid  when  wet ;  fus- 
tian must  have  a  nap  raised  dry  with  teazles, 
and  then  pressed.  Almost  all  kinds  of  cotton 
and  linen  cloths,  except  those  before  mentioned, 
such  as  nankeens,  jeans,  muslins,  &c.  require  to 
be  pressed  quite  hard  ;  not  as  hard  as  thin  wool- 
en cloths,  but  harder  than  thick.  If  any  of  the 
goods  requires  to  be  glazed,  it  must  be  rnanaged 
in  a  different  form,  instead  of  pressing  it  must 
be  calindered  ;  i.  e,  run  through  a  machine  with 
two  steel  rollers,  one  hot  and  the  other  cold,  and 
the  goods  rolled  between  them,  &c. 

N.  B.  Silk,  cotton  and  linen,  cloth  must  never 
be  put  in  the  fulling-mill  to  scour  at  any  time, 
for  it  will  ruin  them. 


fObtervationa  on  the  difference  o^  Colours^  and  theif 
deficnding  powers^  ivith  directions  as  to  the  use  of 
Dye-stuffSf  and  their  jirofiertiea  and  effects. 

THE  five  Material  Colours  are  these.  Blue, 
Yellow,  Red,  Brown  and  Black  ;  the  three 
powers  are  these,  the  Alkali,  the  Acid,  and  Cor- 
rosive ;  these  are  the  depending  powers  of  all 
colours  which  I  shall  endeavour  to  shew  in  each 
colour  in  course. 

First,  The  blue.  The  blue  with  indigo  de- 
pends on  the  power  of  the  alkali,  sig  or  urine  ; 
pcarlash  and  potash  and  the  lie  of  lime  are 
all  alkalies  :  so  it  evidently  appears  that  indigo, 
although  the  best  dye  drug  in  the  world,  (except 
cochineal)  is  of  no  effe:ct  without  the  power  of 
the  alkali.  There  are  other  materials  used  with 
the  indigo,  but  are  of  no  other  use  than  to  sup- 
port and  assist  the  indigo :  Woad  will  dye  a 
blue,  properly  prepared,  without  the  indigo,  and 
indigo  without  the  woad ;  so  woad  serves  only  as 
an  assistant  to  the  indigo.    Woad  is  a  very  us€-' 


t2  dyer's  companion. 

fill  dye  drug  in  carrying  on  large  manufacto- 
ries ;  but  it  will  not  answer  any  useful  purpose 
in  our  small  business.  Madder  is  a  strong  drug, 
serving  to  brighten  and  darken  the  blue,  which 
greatly  assists  the  indigo.  Wheat  bran  serves 
only  to  soften  the  water,  and  urine  or  sig  pre- 
pares the  dye  to  come  to  work  sooner  than  it 
otherwise  would.  Borax  is  an  alkali  which 
softens  all  parts,  and  causes  it  to  rest  easy,  and 
come  to  work  well  and  soon.  Blue  with  indigo 
is  coloured  with  drugs  altogether. 

Prussian  Blue  is  of  a  different  nature  ;  it  is 
dependant  on  the  power  of  the  acid,  which  I 
shall  describe  hereafter.  Blue  with  logwood  is 
of  a  different  nature  from  any  other  real  colour. 
I  think  this  is  possessed  of  all  the  powers  and 
mixed  powers  ;  with  regard  to  logwood  I  have 
imbibed  an  idea  that  it  was  leading  and  allied 
to  a  blue,  I  have  tried  one  power  and  another, 
until  I  have  been  brought  to  this  conclusion. 
Madder  to  strengthen  the  logwood  ;  allum  is  an 
acid  that  raises  the  lustre  of  the  blue,  but  not 
sufficient  of  itself,  it  being  a  weak  acid  ;  verdi- 
grease  is  evidently  possessed  of  two  pouers,  I 
think  ;  it  agrees  with  the  acid  and  corrosive,  but 
is  most  powerful  as  a  corrosive-  Sig  is  a  weak  al- 
kali, which  shows  that  the  powers  are  mixed  ;  it 
rouses  and  gives  lustre  to  the  logwood,  and 
makes  a  fine  blue.  Thus  we  find  the  three  pow- 
ers may  be  mixed  together  in  a  real  colour,  al- 
though much  averse  to  each  other.  Blue  vitriol 
is  possessed  of  two  powers,  acid  and  corrosive, 
and  powerful  in  both  ;  it  has  a  speedy  effect  on 
logwood  ;  and  is  very  good  in  the  latter  part  of 
dye,  to  raise,  bind,  and  darken  the  colour. 

In  the  5th  receipt  I  have  placed  the  two  powers 
as  a  preparation  for  the  blue,  which  are  in  them, 
selves  in  direct  opposition  to  each  other.  The 
acid  being  most  powerful,  it  will  generally  de- 
istroy  the  corrosive.    Copperas  is  a  corrosive ; 


»Y«r's   COMPANIOlsr.  73 

alliim  and  tartar  are  acids,  which  soften  and 
take  off  the  ill  effects  of  the  copperas  ;  thus  mix- 
ed together,  they  have  a  good  effect ;  but  place 
them  in  two  different  bodies  and  apply  youp 
goods,  and  one  will  destroy  the  other.  The 
copperas  agrees  well  with  logwood,  for  almost 
any  colour  :  however,  for  a  blue,  it  is  necessary 
to  rince  the  copperas  well  out  of  your  goods, 
otherwise  the  colour  will  be  dull.  Copperas  be^ 
ing  placed  with  the  logwood,  kills  the  nature  of 
it,  and  destroys  the  lustre  of  the  blue  if  used  aftcp 
the  logwood-  The  verdigrease,  sig  and  pearl- 
ash  make  the  three  powers  compleat  in  this  dye, 
only  in  different  form  and  manner ;  which  evi- 
dently shews  that  blue  with  logwood  cannot  be 
made  without  these  powers  ;  but  when  the 
three  powers  are  necessarily  fixed  or  placed  in 
imion,  they  must  be  in  a  feeble  form  ;  and  still, 
if  they  are  not  propc' y  applied,  although  weak 
and  feeble,  perhaps  they  will  breed  a  war  that 
will  cost  something  before  a  peace  can  be  made; 
so  be  cautious  in  dealing  with  too  many  pow- 
ers at  once,  till  you  become  well  acquainted 
with  their  relative  and  combined  strength- 


PRUSSIJN  BLUE. 

PRUSSIAN  Blue  depends  principally  oir 
the  indigo  raised  by  the  power  of  the  acid,  and 
softened  by  the  power  of  alkali.  Oil  of  vitriol  is 
a  strong  acid,  salt  and  lime  are  alkalies ;  salt  may 
be  used,  and  answer  the  purpose  of  lime,  so  it 
evidenth  appears  that  salt  is  a  simple  alkali : 
these  three  ingredients  mixed  together,  make  a 
con  -pound  of  blueing  for  Prussian  blue  and  green. 
Green  is  no  colour  of  itself,  but  is  connected 
with  two,  blue  and  yellow,  which  are  bo^h  ds- 


.74  dyer's  COMPANIOJf. 

pendant  on  the  acid.  Fustick  is  an  excellent 
dye-wood,  but  is  useless  without  the  acid  to 
raise  and  brighten  the  colour.  AUum  is  com- 
monly used,  but  tartar  and  aquafortis  serve  to 
raise  the  colour  of  the  yellow  ;  so  green  may  be 
made  very  easy,  the  two  colours  being  in  per- 
feet  union  with  regard  to  powers.  So  lead  them 
together  with  care  till  they  arrive  at  their  proper 
state,  which  is  a  good  green. 

In  the  lOdi  receipt  I  have  admitted  a  little  log- 
wood and  copperas,  which  serves  to  darken  the 
green,  and  rather  dull,  8cc. 

In  the  11th  receipt,  I  have  admitted  pearlash, 
allum  and  aquafortis  with  the  fustick.  Allum  and 
aquafortis  are  acids;  pearlash  is  an  alkali ;  the 
acid  raises  the  yellow,  the  alkali  softens  and  takes 
off  the  harsh  parts  of  the  acid,  fits  and  springs 
the  wool,  to  prepare  it  to  receive  the  blue  ;  the 
acids  are  binding,  and  the  alkali  the  reverse. 

In  the  12th  receipt,  I  have  admitted  wheat 
bran  wet  with  v  inegar.  Vinegar  is  the  principal, 
it  being  an  acid,  leading  to  corrosive,  or  is  in 
greater  union  than  any  other  acid  with  tlie  cor- 
rosive ;  but  when  mixed  with  wheat  bran,  it  is  a 
mild  acid  and  hns  quite  a  different  effect  from 
what  it  would  in  the  natural  state  _;  and  cannot 
be  used  any  other  way  in  these  kind  of  dj'es. 
When  mixed  with  the  bran,  or  otherwise,  it  is  of 
a  cleansing  searching  nature.  I  have  admitted 
red  tartar,  which  is  cleansing  and  prepares  the 
eloth  or  goods  to  receive  a  colour.  Copperas 
serves  only  to  darken,  as  I  have  said  before. 

In  the  13th receipt  I  have  admitted  blue  vitriol, 
which  serves  to  darken  and  raise  the  lustre  of 
the  yellow. 


BOTTLE  GRMEJ^: 

BOTTLE  Green  is  connected  with  three  dif^ 


DTER^S    COMPATflO:?.  75 

ferent  colours  ;  two  as  green,  one  as  brown  ; 
the  gi'een  is  possessed  of  the  quality  described 
before,  depending  on  the  acid  ;  the  brown  is 
assisted  by  the  logwood,  and  lowered  down  by 
the  power  of  the  corrosive.  The  copperas  would 
destroy  the  power  of  the  acid  in  this  dye,  were 
it  not  for  the  verdigrease  being  possessed  of  two 
powers,  which  renders  both  mild  and  friendly. 

In  the  14th  receipt,  it  is  evident  that  blue  vi- 
triol is  of  two  powers  ;  as  an  acid  it  raises  the 
yellow  of  the  fustick,  as  a  corrosive  it  darkens 
very  rapidly  with  logwood,  so  the  goods  are  pre- 
pared with  these  two  powers  to  combine  the 
three  in  one  colour. 

The  15th  receipt  is  an  olive  green  ;  this  is  a 
simpleness  of  green,  and  depends  on  the  power 
of  the  acid,  as  green  ;  but  as  brown  on  the 
corrosive ;  the  acid  going  under  cover  of  the 
bark,  gives  admittance  to  the  corrosive  ;  and 
thus  the  lustre  of  the  colour  is  preserved  from 
danger. 


YELLOIV, 

YELLOW  is  one  of  the  material  colours, 
and  is  dependent,  always,  on  the  power  of  the 
acid,  and  no  other;  but  has  different  subjects. 
Fustick  is  the  principal  subject  among  our  dy- 
ers, and  allum  the  principal  acid.  Aquafortis 
is  very  good  to  cleanse  and  prepare  the  colour  ; 
and  it  substantiates  the  yellow,  and  makes  it 
much  brighter.  So  the  allum  and  aquafortis 
agree  in  all  light  colours ;  but  aquafortis  will  not 
answer  with  a  corrosive  ;  for  it  is  so  strong  an 
acid  that  it  will  not  admit  any  thing  of  a  darken- 
ing nature,  as  you  see  in  taking  the  colour  out  of 
cloth,  &c.  The  composition  is  made  up  of 
acids,  and  tiiat  will  destroy  the  power  of  the 


7<i-  dyer's  companion, 

corrosive  and  alkali,  and  all  the  subjects  that 
unite  with  those  powers;  so  it  is  evident  that  the 
acid  is  most  powerful — for  it  will  destroy  what 
the  others  create ;  yet  the  acid  may  be  overcome, 
in  some  of  the  most  feeble  parts,  when  not  guard- 
ed with  care  by  alkali  and  corrosive. 


SCARLET  RED. 

SCARLET  is  one  of  the  most  noble  colour*! 
tgver  made  by  man  :  cochineal  is  its  grand  and 
principal  subject,  which  is  the  finest  and  best 
dye  drug  in  the  world.  Scarlet  has  the  most 
brilliant  rays  of  all  colours,  which  resemble  the 
sun  in  the  firmament  and  the  bow  in  the  clouds. 
Yet  cochineal  is  the  most  simple  of  all  dye  drugs, 
were  it  not  for  the  power  of  the  acid  and  a  pro- 
per  connection  with  other  suJDJects.  Thefustick 
and  turmeric  plnce  a  foundation  to  give  lustre  to 
the  scarlet;  aquafortis  and  argal  cleanse,  and 
raise  the  lustre,  and  make  way  for  the  cochineal 
to  take  place ;  yet  the  goods  are  too  hard — they 
want  softening  and  taking  off  the  harsh  part  of 
the  acid,  which  is  done  by  wheat  bran,  wet  with 
vinegar.  The  bran  is  softening,  and  the  vinegar 
is  an  acid  which  is  searching  and  cleansing.-—' 
Now  the  cloth  is  prepared  to  give  place  to  the 
cochineal.  Arsenick  andarmorick,  are  only  as- 
sisting subjects  ;  the  aquafortis  to  keep  up  the 
life  and  spirits  of  the  subjects.  Thus  cochineal 
is  supported  by  one  of  the  most  noble  and  great- 
est powers,  and  is  guarded  by  worthy  subjects ; 
and  a  scarlet  is  an  ornament  to  kings. 

The  next  is  possessed  of  the  same  power,  only 
4he  subjects  are  a  little  differently  arranged* 


ExEr's   C0MPANION.  ^(t 

CRIMSON, 

CRIMSON  has  the  brilliance  and  lu-.tfe  of 
the  rain-bow,  yet  is  possessed  of  two  colours;, 
but  most  united  with  the  red,  with  a  little  tinc- 
ture of  blue.  So  it  is  evident  crimson  is  of  no 
colour  in  itself,  but  is  a  mixture  with  red  and 
blue.  As  red,  it  depends  on  the  acid ;  and  as 
blue,  on  the  alkali-  Cream  of  tartar,  allum,  and 
crude  tartar,  are  all  acids.  Salammoniack  is  an 
alkali,  and  a  very  mild  one. — Thus  we  finci 
these  two  powers  united  by  the  help  of  one  sub- 
ject. 

The  other,  or  the  next  following,  has  a  num* 
ber  of  subjects,  but  dependent  on  the  same  pow^ 
crs. — Red,  with  nicaragua,  is  dependent  o\\ 
the  acid,  and  all  other  reds.  Dye  woods  are  not 
so  permanent  as  drugs,  nor  so  brilliant  in  rays  j 
but  answer  a  good  purpose  for  common  use, 
and  make  very  good  colours.  All  crimsons 
are  dependent  on  the  powers  of  the  acid  and 
a:lkali. 


MADDKR  REDt^, 

MADDER  is  a  fine  drug,  and  niay  be  cultii 
vated  among  us,  very  easy.  It  is  a  tender  root  < 
and  \vlien  manufactured  fit  for  use,  there  are 
three  different  sorts  proceeding  from  one  root. 
The  dyer  ought  to  be  well  acquainted  with  the 
<iualities  of  this  drug.  It  will  not  admit  of  boil- 
ing ;  it  kills  and  destroys  the  nature  of  it,  (as  it 
does  all  other  dye-stuffs  taken  out  of  the  ground.  > 
Madder  requires  the  softest  water  in  the  world. 
In  order  to  soften  the  water,  I  use  the  wheat 
bran.  But  madder  depends  partly  on  two  pow-. 
ffrs— when  sig  is  used,  whigti  serves  to  darjveu 
fit 


and  bind  the  red  ;  but  brazilletto  has  the  same 
effect,  only  the  colour  will  be  brighter — and  this 
serves  as  an  assistant,  and  the  sig  as  an  alkali, 
and  the  allum  and  argal  as  acid.  Thus  the 
madder  red  is  dependent  on  the  acid- 

The  Meroon  Red  has  the  same  principal  sub- 
jects, and  is  dependent  on  the  same  powers; 
and  differs  in  nothing  only  it  is  a  brighter  red, 
and  a  little  different  in  the  management. 


POLISHED  RED. 
This  colour  is  the  most  independent  of  any 
colour  ;  not  depending  on  any  power  or  powers, 
i  Nutgalls  is  a  subject  with  madder,  but  a  little 
pearlash  may  be  added  in  case  it  wants  help ;  so 
It  appears  that  tlie  alkali  stands  as  a  power,  in 
this  ;  so  all  reds  are  dependent  on  the  acids.— 
The  crimsons  and  clarets  are  nothing  of  them- 
selves, and  are  suWect  to  two  powers — the  acid 
and  the  alkali.  The  subjects  being  differently 
arranged,  causes  the  different  complexions. 

The  power  of  the  corrosive  to  destroy  the 
power  o/'ccfc?.— Copperas,  the  strongest  of  all 
corrosives,  properly  prepared,  will,  without  assis- 
tance, destroy  the  acid.  Take  cloth  from  aci- 
dous  liquor  and  put  it  in  copperas  water,  and  it 
will  wholly  destroy  the  acidous  power  ; — and 
acid  will  destroy  the  corrosive,  in  the  same 
manner.  So  it  requires  a  mediator,  when  these 
two  powers  come  together,  to  unite  them,  and 
prevent  their  destroymg  each  other  ;  but  in  the 
mixture  of  colours  they  will  require  a  frequent 
ajid  friendly  correspondence. 


ORANGE  COLOUR- 

ORANGE  colour  is  fine  and  brilliant,  and 


dyer's  cojipanion".  79 

has  the  shades  of  two  colours — yellow,  in  full ; 
and  red,  in  part.  So  orange  is  the  union  of  two 
colours  which  agree  in  powers  only. 


CHERRY  COLOUR. 

CllERRY  is  a  dark  red,  and  is  subject  to  tire 
powers  of  acid  and  alkali ;  and  the  subjects  are 
barvvood  and  brazilletto— but  barwood  is  the 
most  depending  one,though  the  other  isnecessary* 


VIOLET  COLOURS.  < 

VIOLETS  are  a  mixture  of  red  and  blue  ; 
the  red  depends  on  the  subject  of  brazilletto, and 
on  the  power  of  the  acid — the  blue,  on  the  sub- 
ject of  logwood  and  on  the  power  of  the  alkali. 
Thus,  in  this  dye,  the  powers  and  subjects 
agree,  and  by  varying  the  powers  and  subjects, 
alter  the  complexions. 


pl^rK  COLOURS. 

PINKS  are  of  various  colours,  but  this  is  a 
simple  red,  and  is  dependent  on  the  power  of  the 
acid ;  Its  subjects  are  a  number,  but  I  have 
laid  them  down  as  one  in  the  receipt,  and  that 
is  madder — which  is  tlie  principal  subject  to  be 
depended  on  in  this  colour. 


FLESH  COLOUR, 

FLESH  colour  is  a  simple  colour  of  red, 
changed  from  white  to  a  sm5ll  tincture  of  red; 


so  dyer's  Goi&PAfJiaS'* 

This  has  a  number  of  subjects,  but' is  de^lXV 
'^.ent  en  the  power  of  the  acid 


£JiOHN. 

BRO\yN  has  many  subjects,  and  of  varioub 
complexions,  principally  dependent  on  the  pow- 
er of  the  corrosive  ;  but  sometimes  we  admit 
the  weak  power  of  the  alkali,  like  the  si?,  &c». 
Brown  has  the  greatest  connection  with  all  the 
colours,  of  any  colour :  for  most,  or  the  greats 
est  part  of  the  mixed  colours,  are  connected 
with  tlie  brown,  as  we  shall  shortly  shew. 


CORBEAU,  WITH  CJMTVOOD. 

CORBEAU  is  a  mixture  of  two  colours,  tt^ 
and  brown  ;  these  colours,  in  this  one,  depen^ 
.dent  on  two  powers,  and  but  one  principal  sub- 
ject. The  powers  are  an  acid  and  corrosive  ; 
the  subject,  camwood  and  the  best  of  dye-wood. 
The  red  depends  on  the  oil  of  vitriol  for  aa 
acid  ;  to  prepare  and  unite  the  bodies  of  the 
goods  to  take  off  a  gray  that  these  colours  are 
inclining  to ;  the  blue  vitriol  being  possessed  of 
two  powers,  intercedes  for  the  brown,  supports 
the  red  and  raises  the  lustre,  which  is  the  glory 
of  these  colours  when  united  together  ;  the  cloth 
or  goods,  in  a  direct  view,  will  be  brown  but 
when  glanced  by  the  eye  or  looked  across,  it 
will  appear  with  a  fine  lustre  of  red. 

The  acid  is  a  guard  to  the  red,  but  that  would 
not  give  admittance  to  the  brown,  were  it  not 
for  the  blue  viu-iol  being  of  two  powers,  which 
interpose  for  their  mutual  good.  Copperas,  the 
strongest  of  corrosives,  is  harsh  and  fiery,  an^ 


dyer's  companion.  8il 

wants  to  be  softened  down  notwithstanding  the 
blue  vitriol.  Were  it  not  for  another  assistant 
uniting  with  the  corrosive,  you  would  fail  in  the 
union  of  these  two  colours ;  by  dissolving  the 
copperas  in  vinegar,  it  softens  the  copperas  ;  the 
vinegar  being  an  acidous  power,  uniting  with  the 
corrosive,  causes  the  two  powers  to  unite.  The 
logwood  assists  the  camwood  in  completing  the 
necessary  union.  Thus  when  these  two  colours, 
which  are  in  opposition  "to  each  other  have  occa- 
sion to  unite,  it  must  be  by  the  mediation  or  the 
subject  of  two  powers,  as  I  shall  shew  more 
plainly  in  the  next  place. 


CORBEAU  WITH  N ICARAGUA. 

NICARAGUA,  not  of  so  spirited  a  nature, 
Inquires  the  greater  assistance  of  the  powers* 
This  has  the  assistance  of  tlirce  powers,  and 
has  assisting  subjects ;  the  fustick,  as  an  assisting 
subject,  raises  the  lustre  of  the  red  ;  and  yellov/ 
always  depends  on  the  aoid  ;  the  blue  vitriol 
guards  the  acid  against  the  corrosive,  keeps  it 
from  danger,  and  fits  it  to  receive  the  subject  of 
logwood  ;  the  verdigrease  supports  the  acid, 
raises  the  lustie  of  the  red,  and  unites  with  the 
corrosive  ;  the  copperas  being  softened  by  the 
sig,  the  weak  power  of  the  alkali-  So  by  the 
union  of  the  three  powers,  and  two  mixed  pow- 
ers, and  the  subjects,  (the  Nicaragua  the  chief,) 
the  two  colours  are  brought  to  an  union. 


CORBEAU  WITH  RED  WOOD. 

JBiEDWOOD  has  spirit  sufficient,  but  is  s^lov^ 


1" 


82  'DyER^S    COMPANION. 

in  motion,  and  is  a  feeble  subject ;  and  yet  is  a 
subject  of  great  use  :  however,  it  reqxiires  assis- 
ta-ice,  otherwise  it  would  fiiil.  It  is  supported 
by  the  three  powers,  the  acid  and  corrosive  are 
its  main  aependencics  ;  but  I  have  placed  them 
in  different  forms,  as  you  will  see  by  the  receipts 
for  corbeau  and  London  brown  with  red- wood. 
The  powers  must  support  the  different  subjects 
according  to  the  different  order  in  which  they  are 
admitted.  I  have  left  some,  deficient  of  the  pow- 
er  of  tlie  corrosive,  to  the  assistant  subject  log- 
wood, and  the  power  of  the  weak  alkali  sig  ; 
but  in  case  the  colour  is  not  dark  enough,  then, 
the  dyer's  judgment  will  call  his  attention  to  look 
on  the  receipts  before  mentioned,  and  he  will 
see  the  corrosive  will  be  admitted — the  copper- 
as or  verdigrease,  which  is  commonly  best 
to  guard  the  red,  and  powerful  in  darkening. 
Thus  we  find  the  acid  and  corrosive  are  necessa- 
ry with  this  mixture  of  red  and  brown ;  and- 
sometimes  softened  by  the  power  of  the  aikali. 
The  dyer  will  always  find  these  colours  must  be 
supported  by  the  pow^r  of  the  acid  and  corro- 
sive. The  acid  the  power  of  the  red  always  ; 
the  ccMTOsive  the  complete  power  of  the  brown*. 
The  reddish  brown  and  Spanish  brown  are  de- 
pendant on  the  same  powers,  but  notaltogeth^ 
on  the  same  subjects,  &.c. 


loj\dojv  smoke. 

THE  London  Smoke  is  a  mixture  of  yello^ 
and  brown.  The  yellow  is  dependant  on  the 
«cid,  and  is  the  substauv^e  and  life  of  the  colour. 
Fustick  is  the  principal  subject  for  the  yellow, 
and  allum  the  acid,  but  the  bark  is  a  guard  to 
the  yellow,  and  is  a  subject  in  favor  of  all  pow- 


dyer's  companion*  8^ 

ers.  The  smoke  is  a  ver>'  dark  colour,  bearingr 
a  little  red  with  the  yellow  ;  thus,  the  butternut 
barkv.substantiates  every  part  of  these  colours  ; 
the  Nicaragua  raises  the  reddish  hue,  the  logv 
wood  assists  the  copperas  in  darkening,  and  the 
sig  supports  the  colour  in  every  part,  and  enliv- 
ens it  to  give  place  to  the  corrosive.  Thus  the 
three  powers  are  united  in  this  mixed  colour, 
with  many  powerful  subjects  which  stan4  well 
to  the  last. 


eiJN-jVAMON  BRO  WN. 

CINNAMON  colour  is  a  mixture  of  thi^e^ 
colours,  red  and  yellow  in  perfect  union,  and  is- 
dependent  on  the  acid  ;  and  the  brown,  the  cor- 
rosive and  alkali.     So  the  three  powers,  and 
three  subjects  are  united  in  this  m.ijiture.    The 
smoke  and  liver  browns  are  simply  the  same  as 
London  smoke,  only  differing  in  their  subjects  ; 
the  camwood  and  madder  corresponding  witli^ 
the  fustick,  and  laying  a  foundation  for  the- 
brown.    Thus  the  subjects  will  unite  so  perfect- 
ly well  together,  that  they  are  at  peace  with  all 
the  powers  but  the  the  corrosive ;  and  this  bind^. 
cill  thescsubjects  and  unites  the  colours. 


OLIVE  BROJVM 

THE  Olive  differs  nothing  more  from  smokt 
than  this  it  is  not  so  dark,  has  no  hue  of  rec>, 
and  is  not^  depending  on  the  alkali  ;  but  the 
weak  alkali  may  be  admitted,  Cas  sig)  but  is  de- 
pendent on  the  powers  of  acid  and  corrosive  •; 
i^nd  ;h€  subjects  of  the  olives  arc  fustick  iho- 


54  dyer's  COMPANION'.' 

principal  ;  the  others  which  are  many,  serve  to 
alter  the  complexions  and  give  different  shades* 
Butternut,  logwood  and  madder  unite  as  to 
shades  ;  the  blueing  gives  a  different  shade. 
Thus  it  is  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  dyers  to 
pvake  use  of  what  form  they  please. 


SM'UFF  BROWJ^. 

SNUFF  Colours  are  formed  of  three  colours ; 
dependent  on  the  yellow  for  lustre,  and  the  red 
and  brown  for  the  shades.  The  snuff  colours 
are  dependent  principally  on  the  power  of  the 
acid  and  corrosive,  and  a  little  on  the  power  of 
the  alkali ;  and  the  many  different  subjects  have 
correspondence  with  these  powers.  Their  union 
in  this  manner  causes  the  difference  in  complex- 
ions. So  as  to  the  powers,  properties  and  ef- 
fects of  these  browns,  they  are  simply  all  as  one, 
but  differing  in  complexions;  I  mean  the 
sftioke,  the  olive  and  snuff.  It  is  dependent  on 
the  fustick  and  the  acid  :  the  red  is  dependent 
on  the  redwood,  camwood  and  madder,  and  on 
the  power  of  the  alkali ;  the  brown  on  the  barks, 
the  logwood,  and  sumac  ;  and  is  dependent  on 
the  corrosive.  Thus  by  changhig  the  orders  of 
the  subjects  and  powers,  the  different  shades 
may  be  produced  in  those  colours  ;  and  this  L 
have  left  to  the  discretion  of  tho^dyer. 


BAT.  WING,     SLJTE,    DOVR     OR     LEAD^ 
PEARL  OR  SILVER  GREY,  A JVD  DRAB. 

AS  to  these  colours,  they  are  a  mixture  of  all- 
Colours,  and  are  depending  on  ail  the  powers 


^dyer's  companion.  8^ 

1(1  almost  all  the  subjects.  Sorae.  shades  arc 
very  light,  merely  changed  from  white ;  some 
are  dark  near  to  a  bhck;  but  as  to  the  above  co- 
lours they  are  stiled  grey Sjforming  various  shaded 
^nd  complexions,  from  a  pearl  to  a  slate  colour  ; 
the  different  subjects  coiresponding  with  the 
powers,  causes  the  complexions  to  differ.  So 
with  regard  to  the  powers,  1  think  I  have  de- 
scribed plainly  before  ;  the  union  of  tl-ie  subjects 
and  colours  are  of  so  extensive  a  nature  in  these 
different  shades,  it  is  in  vain  to  describe  them 
in  manner  and  form  as  I  have  the  rest,  for  it 
"ivould  swell  a  volume.  I  have  been  very  par- 
ticular in  the  receipts,  and  given  rules  sufficient,' 
and  an  extensive  assortment  of  shades  ;  but  in 
short,  they  are  all  greys  of  different  complexions, 
being  of  a  weak  and  feeble  make,  and  must  be 
nursed  with  care,  otherwise  they  will  never  ^r*- 
rive  to  a  state  of  maturity. 


aJVEN", 

THE  raven  is  a  mixture  of  two  colours,  blue 
and  black  ;  black  direct,  and  blue  by  the  glance 
of  the  eye.  Now  the  blu:  is  dependent  on  the 
power  of  the  acid  and  alkali,  and  the  black  on 
the  pouer  of  the  corrosive.  The  wheat  bran 
softens  the  goods  ;  the  vinegar  as  an  acid 
cleanses  them  and  prepares  them  to  meet  the- 
subjects,  and  the  madder  and  allum  rouses  it  up 
for  the  logwood  ;  lying  and  souring  gix'es  pene- 
tration and  admittance  to  the  remaining  sub- 
jects, and  the  corrosive  power* 


CROUr  WITH  COPPERAS. 
CROW  colour  differs  not  much  from  the  ra- 


36  dyer's  companion. 

ven.  If  any,  only  in  form ;  but  I  think  there  is 
a  difference — ^the  crow  is  attended  with  a  little 
brownish  hue,  and  is  dependent  on  the  power  of 
the  corrosive,  and  the  subject  of  the  logwood)  &c. 


CROJV  WITH  COMPOUND  OF  BLUEING. 

THE  blue  part  is  raised  with  the  blueing 
which  has  been  described  before  ;  the  black  on 
the  corrosive  ;  tlie  logwood  the  principal  sub- 
ject ;  the  verdigrease  intercedes  for  both,  and 
unites  both  colours  together. 


CROW  WITH  BLUE  VITRIOL. 

BLUE  Vitriol  being  connected  with  two 
powers,  the  acid  and  corrosive,  forms  an  union 
with  these  two  colours,  and  prepares  tliem  to 
meet  the  subject  of  logwood,  and  brings  them 
on  terms  never  more  to  part. 


BLACK, 

BLACK  is  a  colour  of  all  colours.  It  has 
but  one  shade,  and  that  is  the  shade  of  darkness. 
Black  is  dependent  on  the  power  of  the  corro- 
sive, and  has  many  subjects  ;  but  logwood  is 
the  principal,  the  others  serve  as  assistants 
to  the  logwood.  Thus  one  poWer  and  one  sub- 
ject form  the  substance  of  this  colour.  There 
are  diffrent  shades  of  all  colours  except  black. 

Some  men,  and  even  philosophers,  have  en- 
deavoured to  shew  that  black  is  not  a  colour ; 


dyer's  companion.  8Y 

but  I  shall  endeavour  to  refute  them.    Black  is 
made  of  materials,  as  any  other  colour  ;  dark- 
ness is  caused  by  materials,  by  the  earth  and  the 
material  world  ;  by  the  shadow  of  these,  dark- 
ness comes  ;  and  by  the  subjects  of  materials, 
-i^vhite  is  changed  to  black.    So  men  may  as 
well  argue  that  light  is  darkness,  as  to  say  that 
black  is  not  a  colour.    Light  is  not  darkness, 
nor  white  black  ;  but  were  the  light  to  remain 
with  us,  we  should  not  perceive  the  darkness ; 
and  if  we  were  not  blessed  with  materials,  we 
should  not  change  white  into  colours.    Light 
is  changed  by  materials  ;  the  light  of  this  world 
is  of  a  nature  to  be  changed,  and  vvhite  is  of  the 
same  substance,  depending  for  its  changes  on 
materials  of  dye-  stuff ;  by  our  faculties  we  use 
them>  and  obtain  the  desired  effect  which  God 
in  his  wisdom  has  designed.  Blue,  yellow,  red, 
brown  and  black  are  made  of  materials ;  they 
are  all  colours,  and  are  all  of  equal  rank,  formed 
from  white;  yet  black  is  most  powerful,  for 
that  maybe  made  to  overshadowall  other  colours, 
and  cause  darkness  to  reign  over  them  all.     So 
it  is  evident  that  black  is  a  colour  of  all  colours. 
But  black  and  white  mixed  together  is  no  co- 
lour. If  light  and  darkness  were  mixed  together, 
we  should  have  neither :  the  God  that  made 
the  world  separated  the  light  from  the  darkness ; 
so  in  like  manner  he  has  given  us  materials,  and 
a  faculty  to  use   them,  to  change   white    to 
black.    Thus  we  find  that  black  is  a  colour. 

It  is  said  that  orange  and  violets  are  colours^ 
but  they  are  not  in  themselves  so,  but  are  com- 
pounded of  colours-  No  mixture  can  be  a  real 
colour. 

Having  endeavoured  to  give  you  my  ideas  of 
the  properties  and  effects  of  colours  ;  I  request 
to  be  read  with  candor,  and  hope  to  be  of  some 
benefit.  If  I  have  committed  errors,  I  wish 
they  may  be  corrected  for  the  public  abvantage* 


i8$  dyer's    COl^IPANIGK. 

COLOURI.YG  SILK. 

SILK  is  of  a  nature  different  from  wool, 
cotton,  and  linen  :  it  is  of  a  deadly  nature  :  how- 
ever, the  most  of  preparations  for  dying  woollen 
trill  answer  for  silk,  only  the  dye  requires  to  be 
stronger.  It  has  also  such  an  union  with  cotton 
and  linen,  that  most  of  these  preparations  will 
xmswer  for  either.  So  it  appears  that  silk  is  of 
a  substance  between  wool,  cotton  and  linen,  and 
it  unites  with  them  as  to  colours,  &c. 


DYIJVG  COTTON  AND  LINE^. 

,  COTTON  and  Linen  are  of  a  cold  and 
deadly  nature,  and  require  different  preparations 
and  management  in  colouring.  It  is  the  best  way 
in  colouring  cotton  and  linen,  to  have  the  dye 
cold  ;  they  being  of  so  cold  a  nature.  As  to 
the  colours  of  cotton  and  linen,  I  shall  say  but 
little :  As  to  the  powers,  the  principal  is  the 
corrosive,  the  next  the  alkali,  and  sometimes 
the  acid ;  which  you  will  see  by  the  receipts. 
The  subjects  are  many,  but  the  grand  subject 
is  nutgalis ;  the  others  are  so  numerous,  I  shall 
not  mention  them  now.  I  have  endeavoured  to 
explain  them  explicitly  in  the  receipts  for  cot- 
ton and  linen,  and  think  it  needless  to  mention 
them  again  here.  As  to  the  powers  and  the 
union  of  the  subjects,  they  have  been  explained 
before  and  the  best  way  is  to  examine  the  rules 
for  improvements,  and  follow  the  receipts  close 
in  proper  order,  and  I  presume  to  say  they  will 
have  the  desired  effect,  m  all  colours  and  shadei?. 


dyer's  companion.  89' 

^^sjikkjtiojvs  on  the  present  situa- 

TIOXOF  THE  DYER'S  BUSL\£SS. 
Observation  First. 

WE  think  ourselves  masters  of  our  busi- 
ness before  we  are,  and  undertake  to  do  that  we 
jcnow  nothing  of.  By  this  our  business  is  ruin- 
ed, our  customers  imposed  upon,  and  our  coun- 
try impoverished  ;  this  is  the  present  situation 
of  our  business. 

Observation  Second. — Those  impostors  in- 
jure their  fellow-functioners  as  well  as  the  pub- 
lic, by  discouraging  manufactories.  Finding 
they  fail  of  their  intentions,  they  begin  to  encou- 
rage their  customers  by  promising  to  do  better, 
and  to  work  very  cheap  ;  by  these  impostors, 
people  are  deluded,  and  their  goods  not  un- 
irequendy  ruined.  With  the  customer,  who. 
knows  nothing  of  dressing,  cheapness  is  every, 
thing.  The  workman  who  is  a  complete  mas- 
ter of  his  business  is  often  compelled  to  regu- 
late his  prices  of  work  by  the  charges  of  thosc^ 
who  are  ignorant  of  the  trade  ;  consequently  the- 
work  is  slighted,  or  the  mechanic  cannot  obtain 
a  living ;  and  the  employer  is  a  loser  in  the  end, 
as  the  goods  are  badly  finished,  or  perhaps  en- 
tirely ruined. 

Let  those  who  practise  in  a  business  make 
themselves  masters  of  it;  then  fair  and  just  prices 
maybe  obtained  for  their  labor,  and  the  employ- 
er will  be  better  satisfied,  and  real  justice  be: 
done  him. — Thus  our  manufactories  would  be 
increased :  The  interests  of  the  employer  and 
employed  would  both  be  enhanced  ;  they  are 
inseparable :  selfishness  counteracts  its  own 
"V  ievvs  ;  the  injustice  we  do  our  country,  we  do 
to  ourselves. 

As  a  nation  we  can  never  be  really  indepeo- 
<3ent,  until  we  become  our  own  manufacturers 
OJL  srtiples  of  the  first  necessity.    To  arrive  at 
l 


90  dfer's  coiiPANio:>.. 

this  desirable  point  ought  to  be  our  constant  en- 
deavour ;  and  every  real  patriot  will  use  his  ex- 
ertions, not  only  in  word  but  in  deed,  to  hasten 
the  period. 

OBSERVATIOA'S  OJV  MAXUFACTURING 
CLOTH. 
TO  make  fine  Broadcloth,take  your  wool  and 
stirt  it  carefully  ;  take  the  shortest  and  finest  of 
the  wool,  leaving  no  coarse  locks  with  it ;  then 
break  the  wool  all  together,  and  card  it  into  rolls 
by  one  person  or  machine,  then  spin  well  the 
filling  cross  handed  ;  give  it  a  good  twist,  but 
not  hard  so  as  to  be  wirey  ;  let  it  all  be  twisted 
alike,  and  si>un  by  one  person,  then  let  it  be 
well  wove,  with  the  threads  closed  together,  but 
:iot  too  hard.  Then  take  the  long  wool,  and 
iiave  it  combed  into  worsted  ;  have  it  well  spun, 
avisted  well,  and  wove  firm.  Thin  cloths  de. 
pend  on  the  twisting  and  firm  weaving  ;  but  the 
other,  after  it  is  well  manufactured,  depends  on 
the  fulling  to  close  and  make  it  firm,  and  on  the 
dressing  for  beauty.  The  cloth  if  well  manu- 
factured, well  fulled,  and  well  dyed  and  dress- 
ed, will  appear  equal  to  any  imported  cloths  i 
J)ut  if  not  well  manufactured,  it  will  not  be 
handsome. 

If  you  have  coarse  wool  and  fine  mixed  toge- 
ther, it  cannot  be  a  fine  piece  ;  if  it  is  not  broke 
and  carded  together,  it  will  not  work  well;  it  is 
liable  to  be  streaked,  and  pucker  or  cockle  in  the 
mill.  If  not  well  spun,  or  if  spun  by  two  hands, 
it  will  have  the  same  effect ;  and  if  two  weave  on 
one  piece,  one  thick  and  the  other  thin,  it  will 
cause  it  to  pucker  or  cockle. 

With  proper  care  and  attention  m  the  manu- 
facturing and  dressing  of  cloths,  we  may  equal 
any  in  workmanship  and  beauty,  and  aftorf! 
tjigiu  one  third  cheaper  than  those  imported' 


APPENDIX 

TO  THE 

OYER'S    COMPANION. 

INTRODUCTION. 

THE**  author  of  the  Dyer's  Companiotv 
thinks  it  his  duty,  in  gratitude  to  the  professors 
in  that  noble  art,  to' subscribe  his  hearty  thanks 
for  their  approbation  of,  and  encouragement 
given  to  that  work,  in  this  and  eery  part  of 
America.  It  is  well  known  by  that  body 
of  people,  and  felt  i)y  some,  that  the  price  for 
dying  woollen  goods  has  been  much  reduced  of 
late.  Many  circumstances  having  determined 
me,  long  since,  to  acquire  all  possible  know- 
ledge in  the  practice  of  dying  ;  in  my  first  edi- 
tion I  had  not  the  advantage  of  any  author 
to  assist  me,  in  compiling  or  improving  this 
noble  art,  it  is  a  work  of  my  own  study  and  im- 
provements ;  I  have  of  late  had  the  advantage  of 
some  authors,  showing  the  general  practice  of 
dying  all  over  Europe,  in  ^  England,  France, 
Germany,  &c-  which  I  shall  in  this  edition  give, 
a  general  plan  of  dying,  together  with  my  own 
improvements  from  my  small  practice,  and  some 
observations  on  the  properties  and  effects  of 
dyes  and  dye  stuff,  the  modern  and  ancient  forms, 
as  to  the  use  of  them.  I  am  therefore  constrain- 
ed, once  more  to  recommend  a,  strict  inquiry 
into  the  original  quality  of  all  the  drugs  they 
use,  that  thereby*  if  possible,  they  may  discover 
some  of  the  hidden  advantages  that  may  justly 
be  expected  therefrom.    I  am  astonished  that 


92  IN-yRODUCTlO^. 

no  artist  has  ever  attempted  to  improve  tliii, 
most  ingenious  art  of  chymical  principles,  I  be- 
gan the^  work  in  hopes  that  my  master- piece 
would  induce  some  Artist  to  undertake  its  im- 
provement, but  in  vain  do  I  expect  it. 

Of  flowers.— Among  the  infinite  variety  of 
colours,  which  glow  in  the  flowers  of  plants, 
there  are  veiy  few  which  have  any  durability, 
or  whose  fugitive  beauty  can  be  arrested  by  art, 
so  as  to  be  applied  to  any  valuable  purpose  ;  the 
only  permanent  ones  are  the  yellow,  the  red,  the 
blue,  and  all  the  intermediate  shades  of  purple  ; 

,rimson,  violets,  &c.  are  extremely  perishable. 

.-.lany  of  these  flowers  lose  their  colour  on  being 
dried,  especially  if  they  are  dried  slowly  ;  the 
colours  of  them  all  perish  even  in  the  closest? 
vessels,  the  quicker  they  are  dried,  and  exclud- 
ed from  the  air,  the  longer  they  retain  their* 
beauty.  The  colouring  matter,  extracted  and  ap- 
plied on  certain  bodies,  is  still  more  perishable  ; 
oftentimes  it  is  destroyed  in  the  hand  of  thfe 
operator.  The  colour  of  blue  flowers  is  extract- 
ed by  the  infusion  of  water  ;  but  there  are  somft 
from  which  this  gains  only  a  redish  or  purplish 
hue,  The  red  flowers  readily  communicate  their 
own  red  colour  to  water,  there  is  no  exceptiort 
among  those  that  have  been  tried  ;  rectified 
spirits  gjvc  a  brighter,  but  paler  than  the  water 
infusion.  The  colour  of  yellow  flowers,  are  in 
general  durable ;  many  of  them  are  as  much  so 
perhaps  as  any  of  the  native  colours  of  vegetables. 
The  colour  is  extracted  both  by  water  ^  spirits; 
the  watry  infusions  are  the  deepest.  Neither 
acid  nor  alkalis  alter  the  sprcies  of  colour, 
though  both  of  them  vary  the  shades  ;  acid, 
making  it  paler,  and  alkalis  deeper  :  ail  urn  like- 
wise considerably  heightens  it,  though  not  s6 
much  as  idk  alis.  Woollen  silk  impregnated  v<ith 
a  solution  of  allum  imdtaitar,  receives  a  durabfe^ 


INTRODUCTION.  9^ 

,^eilow.  Some  of  these  flowers  were  made  use  of 
by  the  German  dyers. 

Of  fruits. — The  red  juices  of  fruits  are,  red 
currants, mulberries, elderberries,  morello,  black 
cherries,  &c.  gently  inspissated  to  dryness,  dis- 
solve again ;  almost  totally  in  water,  and  appear 
nearly  of  the  same  red  colour  as  at  first.  Recti- 
fied spirits  extracts  the  tinging  particles,  leaving 
a  considerable  portion  of  muilaginous  water  un- 
dissolved, yet  the  spirituous  tincture  proves 
of  a  brighter  colour  than  the  watry.  The 
red  solutions  and  the  juices  themselves,  are 
sometimes  made  dull,  and  sometimes  more 
florid,  by  acid,  and  generally  turned  purplish 
by  alkalis.  There  area  great  number  of  fruits 
of  different  shades  which  1  shall  not  attempt 
to  enumerate  or  describe.  But  to  prove,  the 
proofs  of  colouring  vegetables  is  by  varj^ing 
them  with  spirits,  acids  and  alkalis,  saline,  vo- 
latile and  corrosive  liquors.  When  I  make  use 
of  the  word  corrosive  it  is  intended  to  imply,  to 
absorb,  to  destroy,  to  reign  king  like  black,  or 
CO  change  any  shade,  and  destroying  the  lustre, 
or  lustre  of  the  colour  ;  it  is  one  of  the  reigning 
powers,  let  the  substance  or  quality  be  what  it  will. 

Of  Plants. — The  blue  and  green  colours  of 
leaves  and  plants,  have  more  or  less  fusibility  ; 
we  cannot  claim  in  the  mineral  and  animal  king- 
doms, no  substitute  for  blue,  except  (Prussian 
blue,)  one  which  has  been  inti"oduced  by  some 
dyer's  as  a  colouring  substance,  and  the  vegeta- 
bles yield  but  two,  which  are  both  produced 
from  the  leaves  of  plants  :  indigo  and  woad. 
For  yellow,  there  are  seven  different  plants  be- 
sides woad  and  barks,  which  will  be  spoken  of 
hereafter.  The  leaves  of  many  kinds  of  herbs 
and  trees  give  a  yellow  dye  to  \vool  or  woollen 
doth,  that  has  been  boiled  in  a  solution  of  alluiu, 
and  tai*tar ;  wild  in  particular  affords  a  fine  yel%  • 
1  2 


34  INTRODUeilON. 

low,  and  is  commonly  made  use  of  for  this  pur^ 
pose  by  the  dyer's,  and  cultivated  in  large  quan- 
tities in  some  parts  of  England.     There  is  no 
colour  for  which  we  have  such  a  variety  of  ma- 
terials as  for  yellow  ;  Mr.  Hcllot  observes,  that 
all  leaves,  barks  and  roots,  which  on  being  chewed 
discover  a  slight  astringency,  as  the  leaves  of  the 
almond,  peach,  and  pear  trees,  ash  bark,  the 
roots  of  ivild  patience,  &c.  all  yield  durable  yel- 
lows ;  the  brightness  will  be  according  to  your 
preparation  )fallura   and  tartar,  and  length  of 
time  you  boil  your  dye,  ike.  If  we  were  sensible 
of  the  double  advantage  that  might  be  acquired 
in  the  use  of  many  of  our  vegetable  drugs, 
which  must  be  first  grounded  on  chymical  expe- 
riments in  miniature,  which  will  be  a  certain 
rule  to  the  practice  at  large,  I  am  certain  you 
■would  not  rest  till  you  had  made  some  improve- 
ment.  For  experiment,  after  you  have  been  dy- 
ing with  that  resinous  drug  sanders,  when  emp- 
tying the  vessel,  you  take  up  a  handful,  dry  it 
and  digest  it  in  a  phial  with  some  pure  spirits  of 
wine,  and  it  will  afford  you  an  excellent  red  : 
water  being  insufficient  to  dissolve  the  resin,  anci 
set  out  the  prime  part  of  the  colour.  Many  oth- 
ers may  be  discovered  if  an  unwearied  attention 
was  paid. 

Of  dying  in  general.  —  If  I  ask  a  dyer  what* 
ingredients  compose  a  black  ?  the  answer  will  be 
this,  logwood,  sumac,  galls,  bark,  and  coppe- 
ras ;  and  if  he  knows  it,  he  will  add  in  his  last 
dip  a  little  ashes  or  argal.  If  I  ask  him,  which  of 
these  drugs  contain  an  acid,  which  an  aleotic, 
and  .vliich  a  neutral  quality,  he  cannot  give  me 
an  answer ;  so  you  see  he  knows  the  effect,  bu6 
is  a  stranger  to  the  cause,  and  every  thing  else 
separate  from  fact  and  custom.  What  a  pity 
it  is  that  men  will  not  search  things  to  the  bot- 
tom, when  they  might  be  able  to  find  out  the 
causes  of  miscarriages,  for  which  goo^s  s^ 


INTRODUCTION.  95 

frequently  thrown  aside  to  be  dyed  other  colours^ 
greatly  to  the  dyer's  loss.  In  conversing  with  a. 
sensible  dyer  I  simply  asked  him  what  part  doe<> 
logwood  act  in  the  black  dye  ;  the  honest  man 
answered,  it  helps  to  make  it  black  ;  no  other 

Eroof  was  wanted  but  to  follow  the  old  round  ; 
ut  the  reader  by  now  thinks  it  time  to  be  in- 
formed of  the  business  of  logwood,  which 
is,  (if  used  in  a  right  proportion,)  to  soften 
the  goods,  and  give  a  body  and  lustre  to  the. 
colour.  Logwood  being  possessed  of  a  most  ex- 
oellent  astringent  quality,  fixes  itself  in  the  pores 
of  the  goods,  and  gives  them  a  velvet-like  feel 
tind  gloss. 

Some  will  object  to  this  assertion,  and  say, 
but  our  blacks  have  not  that  velvet-like  feel 
and  gloss  ;  true,  sir ;  but  don't  you  know  th& 
reason  ;  you  dye  your  black  without  scowering 
your  goods,  forgetting,  or  not  knowing,  thaC 
when  the  goods  enter  the  boiling  dye  liquor^ 
they  grow  harsh  and  the  oil  contained  in  their\ 
forms  a  sort  of  resin,  which  becomes  as  fixed 
as  if  it  was  pitch  or  tar,  this  is  one  great  reason* 
why  black  is  so  liable  to  soil  linen  !x;cause  the 
dye  in  some  sense  is  held  in  an  outside  or  super- 
ficial state  ;  it  is  not  possible  these  goods  shouldf 
finish  soft  like  velvet,  or  shine  like  a  raven*^ 
feather!  No,  on  the  contrary  they  spoil  the 
press  papers  and  come  out  stiff  and  hard  like 
buckram,  (not  velvet,)  no  greater  cause  can  be 
assigned  for  it  th;«n  that  of  not  scowering;  this  is» 
the  reason  of  the  great  difference,  so  much  spo« 
ken  of,  between  the  London  blacks  and  those 
dyed  in  America  ;  if  the  An)erican  dyers  would 
take  the  same  pains  as  the  Londoners  do,  IP 
think  they  would  excel  in  fact,  if  not  in  name-, 
and  therefore  let  the  American  dyers  be  equally 
tight  and  clean  in  their  performances,  and  therG 
is  nothing  to  prtveut  their  superiority.  Many 
\yill  censure  and  despise  this,  for  no  othei  .reh- 


96  INTRODUCTION. 

son  than  because  they  cannot  see  into  it,  nor 
will  they  be  at  any  pains  to  learn  and  improve 
their  talents ;  they  seem  rather  to  choose  the  old 
round,  having  no  spirit  or  courage  to  improve, 
but  content  with  each  knowing  the  other's  me- 
thod, without  striving  to  excel,  and  discover  a 
more  complete  and  less  expensive  way  of 
ivorking  and  using  the  drugs  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. I  know  not  how  men  can  sit  still  when 
there  is  more  to  learn  ;  let  it  not  be  said  of  you 
as  one  of  old,  he  lived  and  died  and  did  nothing ; 
perhaps  he  worked  with  his  hands  but  his  head 
was  asleep,  and  when  dead  his  memory  was  no 
jnore  ;  sure  it  is,  the  invitation  I  have  to  write 
and  publish  this  small  treatise  on  dying  is  not 
so  much  to  please  others,  or  to  show  any  thing 
I  have  is  capable  of  the  name  of  parts,  but  to 
communicate  my  good  wishes  for  improve- 
ments to  my  brethren  the  dyers,  and  to  show 
my  willingness  to  help  to  perfect  one  of  the  most 
useful  arts  in  the  world. 

There  are  very  few  arts  so  expensive  as  that 
of  dying;  and  although  those  principal   com- 
modities, clothing  and  furniture,  receive  their 
chief  improvement  and' value  therefrom,  it  is  ne*. 
ver theless  very  fir  from  laeing  brought  to  per- 
fection.    A  long  practice,  sound  judgment,  and 
great  attention,  will  form   a  good  and  expert 
Iyer.    I\iany  dyers  can  work  with  success  in  a 
lumber  of  colours  only  which  depend  on  each 
;lhcr,  and  are  entirely  ignorant  of  the  rest,  or 
lave  but  a  very  imp(rfect  idea  of  them. 

A  philosopher,  who  studies  the  art  ofdyin^, 
'-.'i  in  some  measure  astonished  at  the  multiplici- 
y  of  new  objects  which  it  aflbrds  ;  every  step 
presents  new  difficultit^s  and  obscurities,  with- 
out hopes  of  any  instruction  from  the  common 
workmen,  who  seldom  know  more  than  facts 
and  custom.  Their  manner  of  exphiininr  theni 


.XNTROBUCTION^  9/ 

, selves,  and  their  common  terms,  only  afford 
more  darkness,  which  the  uncommon  and  often 
useless  circumstances  of  their  proceedings  ren- 
der more  obscure.  ^ 

Before  we  enter  into  the  particultirs  of  dying 
wool,  it  is  necessary  to  give  an  idea  of  the  prima- 
ry colours,  or  rather  of  tliose  which  bear  this 
name  by  the  artist ;  for  it  will  appear  by  reading 
the  celebrated  works  of  Sir  Isaac  Newton  on 
Light  and  Colours^  that  they  bear  no  affinity 
with  those  which  the  Philosophers  call  by  thab 
name.  They  are  thus  named  by  the  workmen^ 
because  by  the  nature  of  the  ingredients  of 
which  they  are  composed,  they  are  the  basis 
from  whence  all  others  are  derived.  This  divi- 
sion of  colours,  and  the  idea  which  I  intend  tb 
give  of  them,  are  also  common  to  the  different 
kinds  of  dying. 

The  five  primary  colours  are  blue,  red,  yellow, 
brown  and  black.  Each  of  these  can  furnish  h 
great  number  of  shades,  from  the  lightest  to  thi 
darkest ;  and  from  the  combination  of  two  of 
more  oi^  these  different  sliiKies,  arise  all  the  ccn. 
lours  in  nature.  Colours  arc  often  darkened,  of 
made  light,  or  considerably  changed,  by  in- 
gredients that  have  no  colour  in  themselves  ; 
such  are  the  acid,  the  alkalis,  and  the  neutral 
salts,  lime,  urinir,  arsenic,  alhim,  and  some 
others  ;  and  in  tlie  greatest  part  of  dyes,  the  wool 
and  woollen  goods  are  prepared  with  some  of 
thcijc  ingredients  whicli  of  themselves  give  little 
or  no  colour.  It  maj'  easily  be  conceiv(?d  what 
an  infinite  variety  must  arise  from  the  mixture 
of  tlit'se  different  matters,  or  even  from  the  man- 
ner of  Using  them  ;  i-.vA  whiit  attention  must  be 
given  to  the  minuteat  circumstances,  so  as  per- 
fectly to  succeed  in  an  art  so  complicated,  and  in 
ivhicli  there  are  many  difficulties. 

It  is  not  needful  to  be  very  particular  in  des . 


98  JNPR0DUeT?102*T 

cribing  the  utensils  of  a  dye-house,  as  they  aiA 
commonly  known ;  this  work  being  designed 
for  the  experienced  dyer.  A  dye-house  should, 
hovve'.er,  be  erected  on  a  spacious  plan,  roofed 
over,  but  admitting  a  good  light,  and  as  nigh  as 
possible  to  a  running  water,  which  is  very  neces- 
sary, either  to  prepare  the  wool  before  it  is  dyed, 
or  to  wash  it  afterwards.  The  coppers  should 
be  set  at  the  distance  of  eight  or  ten  feet,  and  two 
or  more  vats  for  the  blue,  according  to  the 
quantity  of  work  that  is  to  be  carried  on. 
^  The  most  important  point  in  dying  the  primi- 
tive blue  is  to  set  the  vat  properly  at  work,  and 
conduct  her  till  she  is  in  a  state  to  yield  her  blue. 
The  size  of  the  woad  vat  is  not  fixed,  as  it  de- 
pends upon  necessity  or  pleasure.  A  vat  con- 
taining a  hogshead,  or  half  that  quantity,  has 
often  been  used  with  success,  but  dien  they 
must  be  prevented  by  some  means  from  cool- 
ing too  suddenly,  otherwise  these  small  vats 
will  fail. 

Another  kind  of  vat  it  prepared  for  blue: 
this  is  called  the  indigo  vat,  because  it  is4-he  in- 
digo alone  that  gives  it  the  colour.  '  Those  that 
use  the  woad  vat  do  not  commonly  use  the  indi- 
go one. 

There  are  two  methods  of  dying  wool  of  any 
colour  ;  the  one  is  called  dying  in  the  great,  the 
other  in  the  lesser  die.  The  first  is  done  by 
means  of  drugs  or  ingredients  that  procure  a 
lasting  dye,  resist  the  action  pf  the  air  and  sun, 
and  are  not  easily  stained  by  sharp  or  corrosive 
liquors.  The  contrary  happens  to  colours  of 
the  lesser  dye.  The  air  fades  them  in  a  short 
time,  more  particularl.v  if  exposed  to  the  sun  ; 
most  liquors  stain  them,  so  as  to  make  them 
lose  their  first  colour.  It  is  extraordinary  that, 
as  there  is  a  method  of  making  all  kinds  of  co- 
lours by  the  great  dye,  the  use  of  the  lesse^' 


INTRODUCTION.  99^ 

should  be  tolerated  ;  but  three  reasons  make  it 
difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  prevent  this  prac- 
tice. 

1st,  The  work  is  much  easier.  Most  colours 
and  shades  which  give  the  greatest  trouble  in 
the  great,  are  easily  carried  on  in  the  lesser  dye. 

2d,  Most  colours  in  the  lesser  are  more  bright 
and  lively  than  those  of  the  great. 

3d,  For  this  reason,  which  carries  more  weight, 
the  lesser  dye  is  carried  on  much  cheaper  than 
the  great.  This  is  sufficient  to  determine  some 
men  to  do  all  in  their  power  to  carry  it  on  in  pre- 
ference to  the  other.  Hence  it  is  that  the  true 
knowledge  of  chymistry,  to  whicli  the  art  of  dy- 
ing owes  its  origin,  is  of  so  much  use. 

It  may  be  observed,  that  all  lasting  colours 
are  called  colours  of  the  great,  and  the  others  of 
the  lesser  dye.  Sometimes  the  first  are  called 
fine,  and  the  latter  false  colours  ;  but  these  ex- 
pressions are  equivocal,  for  the  fine  are  some- 
times confounded  with  the  high  colours,  which 
are  those  in  whose  composition  cochineal  en- 
ters ;  therefore,  to  avoid  all  obscurity  I  shall 
mention  them  distincdy  and  separately  in  their 
places  hereafter. 

Experiments,  (which  are  the  best  guides  in 
natural  philosophy  as  well  as  arts)  plainly  shew 
that  the  difference  of  colours,  according  to  the 
foregoing  distinction,  partly  depends  on  the  pre- 
paration of  the  subject  that  is  to  be  dyed,  and 
partly  on  tlie  choice  of  the  ingredients  which 
are  afterwards  used  to  give  it  the  colour.  I 
therefore  think  it  may  be  laid  down  as  a  general 
principle,  that  all  the  invisible  process  of  dying 
consists  in  dilating  the  pores  of  the  body  that  is 
to  be  dyed,  and  depositing  therein  particles  of  a 
foreign  matter,  which  are  to  be  detained  by  a 
kind  of  cement  which  prevents  the  sun  or  rain  from 
changing  them.  To  make  choice  of  the  colour- 


JlOO"  l5l>E6DU^TI©»s'. 

ang  particles  of  such  a  durability  that  they  cguly 
be  retained,  and  sufficiently  set  in  the  pores  oi' 
tlie  subject  opened  by  the  heat  of  boiling  water, 
then  .contracted  by  the  cold,  and  afterwards 
plaistered  over  with  a  kind  of  cement  left  behind 
Avith  the  salt  used  for  their  preparation,  that  the 
pores  of  the  wool  or  woollen  stuff"  ought  to  h(S. 
cleansed,  enlarged,  cemented  and  then  contract- 
ed, that  the  colouring  atom  may  be  contamed  in 
a  lasting  manner. 

Experiments  also  shew  that  there  is  no  cq- 
louring  ingredient  belonging  to  the  great  dye 
which  has  not  more  or  less  an  astringent  and 
precipitant  quality.  That  this  is  sufficient  to  se- 
parate the  earth,  of  the  allum ;  this  earth  joined  to 
the  colouring  atoms,  forms  a  kind  of  lacque, 
similar  to  that  used  by  the  painters,  but  infi- 
nitely finer.  That  in  bright  colours,  such  as 
scarlet,  where  allum  cannot  be  used,  another 
body  must  be  substituted  to  supply  the  colour- 
ing atoms  (block-tin  gives  this  basis  to  the  scar- 
let dye)  When  all  these  small  atoms  of  earthy 
coloured  lacque  have  insinuated  themselves 
into  the  pores  of  the  subject  that  is  dilated,  the 
cx^ment  which  the  tartar  leaves  behind  serves  to 
masticate  these  atoms  ;  and  lastly,  the  contract- 
ing of  the  pores,  caused  by  the  cold,  serves  t9 
retain  them. 

It  is  certain  that  tlie  colours  of  the  false  dye 
have  that  defect  only  because  the  subject  is  not 
sufficiently  prepared ;  so  that  the  colouring 
particles  being  only  deposited  on  its  plain  sur- 
face,  it  is  impossible  but  the  least  action  of  the 
air  or  sun  must  deprive  them  of  part  if  not  of 
the  whole.  If  a  method  was  discovered  to  give 
to  the  colouring  parts  of  dying  woods,  the  neces- 
sary astriction  which  they  require,  and  if  the 
wool  at  the  same  time  was  prepared  to  receive 
.them,  (as  it  is  the  red  of  madder)  I  am  con\incT. 


l^f  TRODUCTIO^".  IQi 

ec.1,  by  thirty  experiments,  that  these  woods' 
might  be  made  as  useful  in  the  great,  as  they 
have  hitherto  been  in  the  lesser  dye. 

What  I  have  said  shall  be  applied  in  the  se- 
quel of  this  treatise,  where  I  shall  shew  what  en- 
gaged me  to  use  them  as  general  principles. 

I  should  have  been  glad  to  have  seen  a  work 
of  this  sort,  (knowing  the  great  need  there  is  of 
a  chymical  understanding  of  this  art)  signed  by 
the  name  of  some  person  of  distinction,  to  have 
given  it  a  better  face.  ^  I  dare  nor  flatter  myself 
to  have  brought  it  to  its  last  perfection,  as  arts 
daily  improve,  and  this  in  particular ;  but  I 
hope  some  acknowledgment  will  be  due  to  me 
for  bringing  this  matter  a  little  further  out  of 
that  obscurity  in  which  it  has  laid,  and  for  as- 
sisting the  dyers  in  making  discoveries  to  heljj 
to  perfect  this  most  useful  art. 

1  shall  now  proceed  to  examine  the  five  pri. 
mary  colours  above  mentioned,  and  give  the 
different  methods  of  preparing  them  after  the 
most  solid  and  permanent  manner. 

The  materials  of  which  cbths  are  made,  for 
the  most  part  are  naturally  of  dull  and  gloomy 
colours.  Garments  would  consequently  have 
had  a  disagreeable  uniformity,  if  this  art  had  not 
been  found  out  to  remedy  it,  and  vary  their 
shades.  The  accidental  bruising  of  fruits  b$. 
herbs,  the  effect  of  rain  upon  certain  earths  and 
minerals  might  suggest  the  first  hint  of  the  art  of 
dying,  and  of  the  materials  proper  for  it.  Every 
climate  furnishes  man  with  ferruginous  earths^ 
with  boles  of  all  colours,  with  saline  and  vegeta^ 
ble  materials  for  this  art.  The  difficulty  must 
have  been  to  find  the  art  of  applying  them.  But 
how  many  trials  and  essays  must  have  been 
made,  before  they  found  out  the  most  proper  me- 
thods of  applying  them  to  stuffs,  so  as  to  stain 
th^jp  with  beautiful  and  lasting  colours?    In 


102  -IXXRODUCTIOX. 

this  consists  the  principal  excellence  of  the 
dyer's  art,  one  of  the  most  ingenious  and  difficult 
ivhich  we  know. 

Dying  is  performed  by  means  of  limes,  salts, 
waters,  lies,  fermentations,  macerations,  &c.  It 
is  certain  that  dying  is  very  ancient.  The  Chi- 
nese pretend  that  they  owe  the  discovery  of  it  to 
Hoan-ti,  one  of  their  first  sovereigns. 

One  of  the  most  agreeable  effects  of  the  art  of 
dying,  is  the  diversifying  the  colours  of  stuffs. 
There  are  two  ways  by  which  this  agreeable 
variety  is  produced,  either  by  needle- work  with 
threads  of  different  colours,  on  an  uniform 
ground,  or  by  making  use  of  yam  of  different 
colours  in  the  weaving. 

The  first  of  these  inventions  is  attributed  to 
the  Phrygians,  a  very  ancient  nation  ;  the  last 
to  the  Babylonians.  Many  things  incline  us  to 
think  that  these  arts  were  kno^vn  even  in  the 
limes  of  which  we  are  now  treating.  The  great 
progress  these  arts  had  made  in  the  days  of  Mo- 
ses, supposes  that  they  had  been  discovered  long 
before.  It  appears  to  me  certain,  then,  that 
the  arts  of  embroidery  or  weaving  stuffs  of  va- 
rious colours  were  invented  in  the  ages  we  are 
now  upon.  But  I  shall  not  insist  on  the  man- 
ner  in  which  they  were  then  practised,  as  I  can 
,say  nothing  satisfactory  upon  that  subject. 

Another  art  nearly  related  to  that  of  dying,  is 
that  of  cleaning  and  whitening  garments,  when 
ihe;y  liave  been  stained  and  sullied.  Water 
alone  is  not  sufficient  for  this*  We  must  com- 
municate to  it  by  rneans  of  powders,  ashes,  &c. 
that  detersive  quality  which  is  necessary  to  ex- 
tract  the  stains  which  they  have  contracted. 
The  ancients  knew  nothing  of  soap,  but  suppli- 
ed the  want  of  it  by  various  means.  Job  speaks 
of  washing  his  garments  in  a  pit  with  the  herb 
b^rith.    This  passage  shows  that  the  metliod  of 


INTRODUCTION.  1Q3 

cleaning  garments  in  these  ages,  was  by  throw- 
ing them  into  a  pit  full  of  water,  impregnated 
witli  some  kind  of  ashes;  a  method  which  seems 
to  have  been  very  universal  hi  these  first  times. 
Homer  describes  Nausicaa  and  her  companions 
washing  their  garments,  by  treading  tliera  willi. 
their  feet  in  a  pit. 

With  respect  to  the  herb  which  Job  calls 
borith,  I  imagine  it  is  sal  worth  .^  This  plant  is 
very  common  in  Syria,  Judea,  Egpyt,  and  Ara- 
bia- They  burn  it,  and  pour  water  upon  the 
ashes.  This  water  becomes  impregnjtted  with 
a  very  strong  lixivial  salt  proper  for  taking  stains 
or  impurities  out  of  wool  or  cloth. 

The  Greeks  and  Romans  used  several  kinds 
of  earths  and  plants  instead  of  soap.  The  sava- 
ges of  America  make  a  kind  of  soap- water  of 
certain  fruits,  with  which  they  wash  their  cot- 
ton-beds and  other  stuffs.  In  Iceland  the  wo- 
men make  a  lie  of  ashes  and  urine.  The  Per- 
sians employ  boles  and  marls.  In  many  coun- 
tries they  find  earths,  which,  dissolved  in  water, 
have  the  property  of  cleaning  and  whitening 
eloth  and  linen.  All  these  methods  might  per- 
haps be  practiced  in  the  primitive  ages..  The 
necessities  of  all  mankind  are  much  the  same, 
and  all  climates  present  them  with  nearly  the 
same  resources.  It  is  the  art  of  applying  them, 
which  distinguishes  polite  and  civihzed  nations 
from  savages  and  barbarians. 

I  shall  leave  all  to  itself,  and  to  every  man  li- 
berty to  approve  or  disapprove  as  he  pleases,  and 
however  they  determine  the  author  u  ill  not  be 
much  troubled,  for  he  is  certain  no  man  can 
have  a  lighter  esteem  for  him,  than  he  has  for  him- 
self;  he  however,  will  be  well  pleased  if  any  man 
shall  find  benefit  by  what  he  has  written.  If  any 
should  alledge  a  general  opposition,  that  to  the 
author,  ^viU  be  no  privating  argument ;  he  does 


104  INTEOBUCTIO^r. 

Dot  plead  the  importunity  of  friends,  for  tlie 
publication  of  this  ;  if  it  is  worthy  it  needs  no 
apology,  if  not,  let  it  be  despised ;  and  I  remaih 
the  same  friend  to  trade. 

ELIJAH  BEMISS. 


r  APPENDIX,  Si'f. 

CHAPTER  L 

O^  BLUE  DYING. 

BLUE  among  all  colours  is  the  most  difficulf 
to  set  up  and  manage,  it  is  one  of  the  five  ma- 
terial or  primitive  colours.     In  the  preceding 
work  it  is  to  be  observed,  that  the  rule  given  is 
calculated  for  cloth  generally  :  in  this  I  shall 
give  the  process  for  wool,  for  that  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred, and  the  most  sure  and  the  only  way  blue 
ought  to  be  coloured,  except  very  coarse  cloth ; 
and  further,  I  have  given  in  the  preceding,  re- 
ceipts for  blue,  for  the  good  and  false  dye,  or  the 
greater  and  the  lesser  dye  ;  in  the  good  dye  we 
are  not  furnished  but  two  drugs  that  give  a  per- 
manent blue,  and  they  are,  indigo  and  vvoad,  or 
pastel,  and  these  light  and  fleaty  substances, 
were  it  not  for  the  power  of  fixed  alkalis,  which 
rouses  and  gives  life  to  the  colouring  atom  or 
substance,  and  separates  it  from  tlie  earth  it  corr- 
tains  ;  I  shall  leave  this  for  further  explanation. 
The  lesser  dye  is  obtained  from    logwood 
with  assisting  subjects,    and  depends  on  the 
powers  of  the  alkali  and  acid,  as  you  may  see 
in  my  preceding  observations  on  blue  with  log- 
wood ;  it  is  further  to  be  observed,  in  the  pre- 
ceding observations  on  the  properties  and  eifects 
of  dyes  and  dye  stuff,  that  I  have  classed  the 
colours  into  five  material  or  primitive  colours ; 
which  are,  blue,  yellow,  red,  brown,  and  black  ; 
all  other  shades  are  depending  on  these  as  their 
mothers  or  princesses,  and  these  five  colours  are 
depending  on  three  monarchiahpowers,  which 
have  but  little  or  no  alliance  with  each  other> 
K2 


106  APPEJTDiJi  TO  THE 

except  it  is  by  the  intercourse  of  some  neutral 
power.  The  names  of  the  powers  are  the  alkali, 
acid,  and  corrosive,  and  all  their  subjects  rest 
mild  and  easy  under  them,  and  have  a  friendly 
correspondence  and  never  are  at  variance,except  k 
is  by  the  interference  of  the  powers ;  when  it  hap- 
pens, there  can  be  no  peace  or  negociation  only 
by  the  assistance  of  a  neutral  power.  I  shall 
give  further  explanations  on  this  subject  in  the 
sequel ;  showing  the  connexion  of  colours  by 
twos,  and  by  threes,  and  their  dependencies  witli 
the  dying  subjects  and  the  subjects  to  be  dyed. 

To  return  to  the  blue  ;  1st.  it  is  necessary  to 
pay  some  attention  to  the  vat,  and  utensils  used 
in  blue  dying.  2nd.  Tlie  explanation  on  the 
articles  used  in  the  blue  dye,  how  prepared, 
and  its  effects,  &c.  3d.  Give  a  brief  account 
by  way  of  receipts,  of  the  modem  forms  as 
practised  in  general  in  the  largest  manufactories 
of  America,  and  the  general  practice  in  England 
and  France,  by  the  most  noted  dyers  in 
Europe,  &c. 

The  vat  and  utensils  used  m  blue  dying.^— The, 
vat  must  be  in  size  and  proportion  as  your  bu- 
siness requires,  from  eight  to  tvventy-four  bar- 
rels ;  tlie  fashion  and  forms  are  various  accord- 
ing to  fancy,  but  I  shall  point  out  the  modes 
most  applicable,  and  easiest  to  manage  and  des- 
patch business.  The  best  and  cheapest  way  to 
make  a  vat ;  have  the  bottom  of  cast  iron  about 
two  and  a  half  feet  deep,  with  a  flange  on  the  out- 
side about  four  inches  from  the  top,  then  raise  it 
to  five  or  five  and  a  iialf  feet,  with  staves  made 
of  pine  plank  two  inches  thick,  hooped  with 
iron  hoops  and  fastened  to  the  upper  edge  of 
the  iron  kettle ;  when  thus  prepared,  place  it 
in  the  dye-house,  where  it  will  be  the  most  ad- 
vantageous to  \f ork  at,  set  it  with  convenience 
ibr  heating,  with  a  flew  raised  with  brick  to  keep 


dyer's  companion.  107 

the  dye  at  a  proper  heat,  &c.  Some  have  them 
of  lead  and  have  them  set,  but  it  is  expensive 
and  liable  to  melt  and  burst ;  others  use  copper 
caldrons,  which  ought  not  to  be  admitted,  for 
the  alkali  corrodes  the  copper  and  has  a  bad  ef- 
fect on  the  dye.  The  next  thing  necessary  is  a 
large  iron  boiler,  that  will  contain  half  as  much 
as  your  vat,  set  for  the  convenience  of  heating 
near  the  vat,  for  the  purpose  of  setting  and  re- 
cruiting your  dye,  and  immersing  your  goods 
in  warm  water ;  and  a  large  tub  that  will  hold 
the  remainder  of  your  dye.  The  next  thing- 
necessary  is  a  small  iron  kettle,  say  about  a  bar- 
rel, set  convenient  for  heating,  for  a  preparation 
kettle  to  dissolve  potash,  &.c. ;  another  kettle  is 
necessary,  say  the  size  of  six  gallons,  for  the 
purpose  of  grinding  indigo  with  two  eighteen 
pound  cannon  balls  ;  the  form,  have  the  bottom 
rounding  that  the  indigo  may  settle  under  the 
balls,  and  the  point  of  the  standard  placed  in 
the  centre  with  a  cross  to  turn  the  balls.  The 
next,  a  copper  ladle  with  a  long  handle,  to  dip 
to  the  bottom  of  the  vat,  to  hold  two  gallons ;  a 
copper  skimmer  with  a  handle  sufficient  to  reach 
to  the  bottom,  to  take  up  the  ground,  say  eigh- 
teen inches  diameter  ;  a  smaller  one  to  take 
oft'thf  liiiry  or  head,  and  a  small  tub  to  contain 
it.  The  next  tiling  necessary  for  dying  wool, 
is  a  net  sufficient  to  contain  the  wool,  and  strung 
with  a  cord  the  width  of  the  vat,  and  its  depth 
within  two  feet  of  the  bottom,  but  not  so  as  to 
touch  the  ground.  There  is  another  form  of  vat 
and  utensils  used  for  blue  dying,  explained  in 
the  preceding  work  in  receipt  No.  1,  for  dy- 
ing cloth ;  the  rake,  the  jack  for  wringing,  the 
screen,  the  handlers,  the  folding  and  cooling 
board,  &c.  JScc.  The  cold  indigo  vat  with  urine, 
does  not  require  to  be  set  in  the  ground,  neither 
a  flew  around  it,  but  set  in  the  dye-house  as  is 


108  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

most  convenient  to  work  at.  All  woollen  blue 
dyes  require  to  have  a  tight  cover,  and  clouted 
with  cloths  to  prevent  the  evaporation  of  the 
volatile  fluid.  The  cotton  vats  are  set  quite  dif- 
ferent if  worked  cold,  which  I  shall  describe 
hereafter. 

The  method  of  fire  flaring  goods  for  blue  ;  and  an  exfikt-^ 
nation  of  the  dye  stuffs^  how  iirefiared  and  its  effects. 

WHEN  the  vat  is  once  prepared  and  come  to 
work,the  dying  of  wool  orstuffsiseasy.  Wet  them 
well  in  clear  warm  water,  with  one  quarter  of 
a  pound  pearlash  to  every  40  pound  of  wool, 
MTinging  and  dipping  them  in  the  vat,  and  keep- 
ing them  in  more  or  less  time,  according  as  the 
colotir  is  required  in  shade.  From  time  to  time 
the  stuff  is  aired  ;  that  is,  taken  out  of  the  vat 
and  wrung,  so  that  the  liquor  may  fall  back 
into  the  vat,  and  exposed  a  little  to  the  air, 
which  takes  oft' the  green  in  one  or  two  minutes ; 
for  let  what  vat  soever  be  used,  the  stuff  is  al- 
ways  green  at  its  coming  out,  and  only  takes 
the  blue  colour  in  proportion  as  the  air  acts  upon 
it.  It  is  also  very  necessary  to  let  the  green  go 
off  before  it  is  returned  into  the  liquor  to  receive 
a  second  shade,  as  being  then  better  able  to 
judge  of  its  colour,  and  know  if  it  is  requisite 
to  give  what  is  called  one  or  several  turnings. 

It  is  an  ancient  custom  among  dyers  to  reck- 
on thirteen  shades  of  blue  from  the  deepest  to 
the  lightest.  Although  their  denominations  be 
somewhat  arbitrary,  and  that  it  is  impossible 
exactly  to  fix  the  just  passage  from  one  to  the 
other,  I  shall  notwithstanding  give  the  names. 
They  are  as  follow,  beginning  with  the  lightest : 
milk-blue,  pearl- blue,  pale-blue,  flat-blue,  mid- 
clling-blue,sky-blue,queen's-blue,turkish.blue, 
watchet-blue,  garter-blue,  mazareen-blue,de€p- 
blue,  and  very  deep  or  navy-blue. 


dyer's  coiiPANiojr.  lOS 

'i'hese  distinctions  are  not  equally  received 
by  all  dyers,  nor  in  all  provinces,  but  the  most 
part  are  known  ;  and  it  is  the  only  method 
that  can  be  taken  to  p:ive  an  idea  of  the  same 
colour,  whose  only  difference  is  in  being  more 
or  less  deep. 

It  is  easy  to  make  deep  blues.  I  have  alrea- 
dy said,  that  to  effect  this,  the  wool  or  stuffs  are 
to  be  returned  several  times  into  the  vat ;  but 
it  is  not  so  in  respect  to  light  blues  ;  for  when 
the  vat  is  rightly  come  to  work,  the  wool  can 
seldom  be  left  in  short  time  enough,  but  that  it 
takes  more  than  the  shade  required.  It  often 
happens  when  a  certain  quantity  of  wool  is  to 
be  dipped,  and  that  it  cannot  all  be  put  in  at 
the  same  time,  that  what  goes  in  at  first  is  deep- 
er than  tlie  other.  There  are  some  dyers  who, 
to  obviate  this  inconveniency  in  making  very 
light  blues,  which  they  call  milk  and  water, 
talte  some  of  the  liquor  of  the  indigo  vat,  and 
dilute  it  in  a  very  great  quantity  of  lukewarn]! 
water ;  but  this  method  is  a  bad  one,  for  the 
wool  died  in  this  mixture  has  not  near  so  lasting 
a  colour  as  that  dyed  in  the  vat ;  as  the  altering 
ingredients  which  are  put  into  the  var  with  the 
indigo,  serves  as  much  to  dispose  the  pores  of 
the  subject  which  is  dipped  in,  as  to  the  open- 
ing of  the  colouring  fecula  which  is  to  dj'e  it, 
their  concourse  being  necessary  for  the  ad- 
hesion of  the  colour.  The  best  method  of  mak- 
ing these  very  light  blues,  is  to  pass  them  ei- 
ther in  a  woad  or  indigo  vat,  out  of  which  the 
colour  has  been  worked,  and  begins  to  cool. 
The  woad  vat  is  still  preferable  to  that  of  the 
indigo,  as  it  does  not  dye  so  soon. 

The  blues  made  in  vats  that  have  been  work- 
ed are  duller  than  the  others  ;  but  they  may  be 
pretty  sensibly  roused  by  passing  the  wool  or 


110  APPENDIX  TO  T»E 

btuffs  in  boiling  water.  This  practice  is  even 
necessary  to  the  perfection  of  all  blue  shades  ; 
by  this  the  colour  is  not  only  made  brighter, 
but  also  rendered  more  secure,  by  taking  oft'  all 
that  is  not  well  incorporated  with  the  wool ;  it 
also  prevents  its  spotting  the  hands  or  linen, 
^v•hich  commonly  happens,  and  the  dj'ers,  to 
gain  time,  neglect  this  precaution.  After  the 
wool  is  taken  out  of  the  warm  water,  it  is  neces- 
sarj'  to  wash  it  again  in  the  river,  or  at  least  in 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  for  the  carrjing  off 
all  the  superfluous  loose  dye. 

The  best  method  to  render  the  blue  dye 
brighter,  is  by  filling  them  with  a  thin  liquor  of 
melted  soap,  and  afterwards  cleansing  them  from 
the  soap  by  warm  water,  and,  if  convenient,  by 
rinsing  them  in  an  old  cochineal  liquor.  This 
method  is  to  be  taken  with  deep  blues  ;  but  if 
the  same  was  taken  with  very  light  blues,  they 
would  lose  their  bright  blue  lustre,  and  incline 
to  grey. 

I  hope  to  have  removed  all  difficulties  on  tlie 
preparation  of  blue,  and  in  the  method  of  dying 
it.  Some  dyers,  for  the  sake  of  gain,  spare  the 
woad  and  indigo,  and  use  for  blue,  archil-log- 
wood, and  brazil  :  this  ought  to  be  expressly 
forbid,  though  this  adulterated  blue  is  often 
brighter  than  a  kisting  and  legitimate  blue. 
This  is  to  be  noticed  in  the  receipts,  treating 
on  the  lesser  die. 

I  shall  now  explain  the  theory  of  the  invisible 
change  of  the  blue  dye.  This  colour,  which  I 
shall  here  only  consider  in  relation  to  its  use  in 
the  dying  of  stuffs  of  what  kind  soever,  has 
hitherto  been  extracted  only  from  the  vegetable 
world,  and  it  does  not  appear  that  we  can  hope 
to  use  in  this  art  the  blues  the  painters  employ: 
such  are  the  Prussian  blue,  which  holds  of  the 


dyer's  companion.  llii 

'iiiinial  and  mineral  kind*  ;  the  azure,  which  is 
a  vitrified  mineral  substance  ;  the  ultramarine,, 
which  is  prepared  from  a  hard  stone  ;  the  earths 
that  have  a  blue  colour,  &c-  These  matters 
cannot,  without  losing  their  colour  in  whole 
or  in  part,  be  reduced  into  atoms  sufficiently 
minute,  so  as  to  be  suspended  in  the  saline  li- 
quid, which  must  penetrate  the  fibres  of  the  ani- 
mal and  vegetable  substances  of  which  stuffs  arc 
manufactured ;  for  under  this  name  linen  and 
cotton  cloths  must  be  comprehended>  as  well  as 
those  wove  of  silk  and  wool. 

Hitherto  we  know  but  of  two  plants  that  yield 
blue  after  their  preparation  :  the  one  is  the  isatis 
or  glaustum,  which  is  called  pastel  in  Langue- 
doc,  and  vvoad  in  Normandy.  Their  prepara- 
tion consists  in  a  fermentation  continued  even  to 
the  putrefaction  of  all  the  parts  of  tlie  plant,  the 
root  excepted  ;  and  consequently  in  the  unfold- 
ing of  all  their  principles  into  a  new  combination, 
and  fresh  order  of  tliese  same  principles,  from 
whence  follows  an  union  of  infinite  fine  particles, 
whi^h,  applied  to  any  subject  whatever,  reflects 
the  light  on  them  very  difl^Tcnt  from  what  it 
would  be,  if  these  same  particles  were  still  join- 
ed to  those  which  the  fermentation  has  sepa- 
rated. 

The  other  plant  is  the  anil,  which  is  cultivat- 
ed in  the  East  and  West  Indies,  out  of  which 
they  prepare  that  fecula  that  is  sent  to  Europe 
under  the  name  of  indigo.  In  the  preparation 
of  this  plant  the  Indians  and  Americans,  have 
found  out  the  art  of  separating  only  the  colouring 
.  parts  of  the  plant  from  the  useless  ones ;  and  the 
French  and  Spanish  colonies  have  imitated  them 

*  1748,  Mons.  Macquer,  of  the  Royal  Acadetny  of 
Sciences,  touiul  tlie  means  of  using  the  Prussian  bhie  to  dye 
silk,  and  clotli,  in  a  blue  wUose  biiglitness  surpassed  all  the 
>lues  hitherto  known. 


112  .KfTEKBlS    TO  THE 

and  thereby  made  a  considerable  increase  o.i 
commerce. 

That  the  indigo,  such  as  is  exported  from 
America,  should  deposite  on  wool  or  stuffs  the 
colouring  parts  required  by  the  dyer,  it  is  infus- 
ed several  ways,  the  processes  of  which  will  be 
given  in  the  sequel.  Tliey  may  be  reduced  to 
three  ;  the  cold  indigo  vat  may  serve  for  thread 
and  cotton  ;  those  that  are  made  use  of  hot,  are 
fit  for  stuffs  of  any  kind  whatever. 

In  the  cold  vat,  the  indigo  is  mixed  with 
pearlash,  copperas  or  green  vitriol,  lime,  mad- 
der, and  bran.  The  hot  vats  are  either  prepar- 
with  water  or  urine ;  if  with  water,  pearlash 
or  potash,  and  a  little  madder  must  be  added  ;  if 
with  urine,  allum  and  tartar  must  be  joined  to 
the  indigo.  Both  of  these  vats,  principally  in- 
tended for  wool,  require  a  moderate  degree  of 
heat,  but  at  the  same  time  strong  enough  for  the 
wool  to  take  a  lasting  dye,  I  mean  such  as  will 
withstand  the  destroying  action  of  the  air  and 
sun,  the  proof  of  dyes. 

I  have  prepared,  as  I  said  before,  these  three 
vats  in  small,  in  cylindrical  glass  vessels,  expos- 
ed to  the  light,  in  order  to  see  vhat  passed  be- 
fore the  infusion  came  to  a  colour,  that  is  whe- 
ther it  was  green  beneath  the  flurry  at  the  sur- 
face, which  is  a  sign  of  internal  fermentation.^  I 
have  said  that  the  green  colour  of  the  liquor  is  a 
condition  absolutely  essential,  and  without 
which  the  colour  the  stuff  would  take  would 
not  be  a  good  dye,  atid  would  almost  entirely 
disappear  on  the  least  proofs.  , 

I  shall  now  give  a  description  of  the  cold  mdi- 
go  vat  in  small,  for  the  changes  are  much  better 
seen  in  her,  and  for  this  reason,  that  what  hap- 
pens in  the  two  others  is  not  very  essentially  dif- 
ferent. It  is  proper  to  take  notice,  that  what  I 
shall  C2i\\part,  in  this  observation  of experimcQi^ 


byer's  C0M?AN10N.  115 

IS  a  tneasure  of  the  weight  of  four  drachms,  of 
all  matter  either  liquid  or  solid,  and  that  it  will 
be  this  quantity  that  must  be  supposed,  each 
time  that  I  use  that  word  in  the  detail  of  these 
experiments. 

I  put  three  hundred  parts  of  \vatcr  into  a  ves- 
sel, containing  five  hundred  and  twelve,  or  eight 
quarts,  in  which  I  dissolved  six  parts  of  cop- 
peras, which  gave  the  liquor  a  yellow  dye.  Six 
parts  of  potash  were  also  dissolved  by  them- 
selves in  thirty-six  parts  of  water.  The  solu- 
tion made,  I  digested  in  it  six  parts,  or  three 
ounces,  of  indigo  of  St.  Domingo  well  ground  ; 
it  was  left  over  a  very  gentle  fire  three  hours. 
The  indigo  swelled,  and  taking  up  a  larger  space, 
rose  from  the  bottom  of  this  alkaline  liquor,  with 
which  it  formed  a  kind  of  thick  syrup,  which 
was  blue.  This  was  a  proof  that  the  indigo  was 
only  divided,  but  not  dissolved;  for  had  its  so- 
lution been  perfect,  that  thick  liquor  would 
have  been  green  instead  of  blue ;  for  all  liquor 
that  has  been  tinged  blue  by  a  vegetable  of  any- 
kind,  grows  green  on  the  admixion  of  an  alka- 
line salt,  either  concrete  or  in  a  liquid  form, 
whether  it  be  a  fixed  or  volatile. 

From  hence  the  reason  is  discovered  why  in- 
digo docs  not  dye  a  stuff  of  a  lasting  blue  when 
its  liquor  is  not  green  ;  for  its  solution  not  be- 
ing complete,  the  alkali  cannot  act  upon  these 
first  elementary  particles  ;  as  for  example,  it 
acts  on  the  tincture  of  violets,  which  is  a  per- 
fect solution  of  the  colouring  parts  of  those 
flowers,  which  it  turns  green  in  an  instant,  and 
on  the  first  contact. 

I  poured  this  thick  blue  liquor  into  the  solu- 
tion of  vitriol,  and  after  well  shaking  tlie  mix- 
ture, I  added  six  parts  of  lime  that  had  been 
slacked  in  the  air  ;  it  was  cold  weather  when 
this  experiment  was  made;  the  tliermometer 


il4  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

was  at  two  degrees  under  the  freezing  point, 
which  was  the  cause  that  this  was  near  four 
days  coming  to  a  colour,  and  the  fermentation, 
which  must  naturally  ensue  in  all  vitriolic  li- 
quor, where  an  alkaline  salt  has  been  put  in, 
such  as  potash,  and  an  alkaline  earth,  was 
carried  on  with  so  much  slowness  that  very  lit- 
tle scum  appeared  on  the  surface  of  the  liquor. 
In  a  hot  season,  and  by  making  use  of  lime 
newly  calcined,  these  kind  of  vats  are  some- 
times fit  to  dye  in  four  hours. 

Each  time  I  stirred  the  mixture  with  a  spa- 
tula, I  observed  that  the  iron  of  the  vitriol  or 
copperas  was  the  first  that  precipitated  to  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel,  and  that  the  alkaline  salt 
had  precipitated  it  to  join  itself  to  the  acid* 
Thus  in  this  process  of  the  cold  indigo  vat,  a 
tartar  of  vitriol  after  the  manner  of  Tachenius 
is  formed  ;  whereas  by  the  common  method 
of  preparing  this  neutral  salt,  the  acid  of  vitriol 
is  poured  on  a  true  alkaline  salt,  such  as  pot- 
ash. This  again  is  a  circumstance  that  leads 
insensibly  to  the  theory  of  the  good  dye.  _  I  de» 
sire  the  reader  to  take  notice  of  this,  as  it  will 
occur  in  the  sequel  of  this  observation,  as  well 
as  in  other  chapters. 

The  earthy  parts  of  the  lime  preciphate  next 
after  the  iron  ;  they  are  easily  distinguished  by 
the  whiteness,  which  are  yet  difficult  to  distin- 
guish wlien  the  colouring  parts  of  the  indigo 
are  sufficiently  loosened.  In  short,  under  this 
white  earth  the  fecula  of  the  indigo  deposites  it- 
self, and  by  degrees  rarifies  in  such  a  manner, 
that  this  substance,  which  the  first  day  was  only 
the  eighth  of  an  inch  above  the  precipitated 
lime,  rose  insensibly  within  half  an  inch  of  the 
surface  of  the  liquor,  and  the  third  day  grew 
so  opaque  and  muddy,  that  nothing  further 
could  be  distinguished. 


dyer's  companion,  11^ 

This  rarcfltction  of  the  indigo,  slow  in  winter, 
quick  in  summer,  and  which  may  be  accelerat- 
ed in  winter  by  heating  the  liquor  to  fifteen  or 
sixteen  degrees,  is  a  proof  that  a  real  fermenta- 
tion happens  in  the  mixture,  which  opens  the 
little  lumps  of  indigo,  and  divides  them  into 
particles  of  an  extreme  fineness  ;  then  their  sur- 
faces being  multiplied  almost  ad  infinitum ^^  they 
are  so  much  the  more  equally  distributed  in  the 
liquor,  which  deposits  them  equally  on  the  sub- 
ject dipped  in  to  take  the  dye. 

If  fermentation  comes  on  hastily,  or  in  a  few 
hours,  whether  on  account  of  the  heat  of  the  air, 
or  by  the  help  of  a  small  fire,  a  great  quantity  of 
flurry  appears  ;  it  is  blue,  and  its  reflection  they 
have  also  named  coppery,  because  the  colours  of 
the  rainbow  appear  in  it,  and  the  red  and  yel- 
low here  predominate ;  however  this  phnenome- 
non  is  not  peculiar  to  indigo,  since  the  same  re- 
flection is  p>erceived  in  all  mixtures  that  are  in 
actual  fermentation,  and  particularly  in  those 
which  contain  fat  particles  blended  with  salts, 
urine,  soot,  and  several  other  bpdies  put  into 
fermentation,  show  on  their  surface  the  same 
variegated  colours. 

The  flurry  of  the  indigo  vat  appears  blue  be- 
cause exposed  to  the  external  air,  but  if  a  small 
portion  of  the  liquor  which  is  under  it  be  taken 
up  with  a  spoon,  it  appears  more  or  less  green  in 
proportion  as  it  is  filled  with  colouring  particles. 
In  the  course  of  this  observation,  I  shall  show 
the  reason  of  this  difference,  or,  at  least,  a  pro- 
bable explication  of  this  change  of  blue,  which, 
as  I  have  said  before,  is  absolutely  necessary  for 
succeeding  in  the  process  described. 

When  die  vat  is  in  this  state,  it  has  already 
been  said  that  cotton,  thread,  cloths  wove  from 
them,  &c.  may  be  dyed  in  her,  and  the  colours 
which  they  take  are  of  the  good  dye ;  that  is, 


116  APPENDIX  70  THE 

this  cotton  and  thread  will  maintain  them,  even 
after  remaining  a  suitable  time  in  a  solution  of 
white  soap,  actually  boiling.  This  is  the  proof 
given  them  preferable  to  any  other,  because  the 
linen  and  cotton  cloths  must  be  washed  with 
soap  when  dirty. 

Though  the  indigo  liquor  which  is  in  this 
state  can  make  a  lasting  dye  without  the  addi- 
tion of  any  other  ingredients  ;  the  dyers  who  use 
this  cold,  vat  add,  as  in  the  other  hot  vats,  a  de- 
coction of  madder  and  bran  in  common  water 
run  through  a  sieve  ;  this  is  what  they  call  be- 
ver.  They  put  madder  to  insure,  as  they  saj', 
the  colour  of  the  indigo,  because  this  root  af- 
fords a  colour  so  adhesive  that  it  stands  all 
proofs  ;  they  put  the  bran  to  soften  the  water, 
which  they  imagine  generally  to  contain  some 
portion  of  an  acid  salt,  which,  according  to  their 
opinion,  must  be  deadened. 

This  was  the  opinion  of  the  French  dyers 
against  indigo  in  the  days  of  Monsieur  Colbert ; 
and  as  this  minister  could  not  spare  time  to  see 
the  experiments  performed  in  his  presence,  on 
the  foundation  of  this  report,  he  forbade  indigo 
to  be  used  alone.  But  since  the  government  has 
been  convinced,  by  new  experiments  made  by 
the  late  Mr.  Dufay,  that  the  stability  of  the  blue 
dye  of  this  ingredient  was  such  as  could  be  de- 
sired ;  the  new  regulation  of  1737,  licences  the 
dyers  to  use  it  alone,  or  mixed  with  woad  ;  so 
that  if  they  continue  to  use  the  madder,  it  is  ra- 
ther because  tliis  root  giving  a  pretty  deep  red, 
and  this  red  mixing  with  the  blue  of  the  indigo, 
gives  it  a  tint  which  approaches  the  violet,  and 
also  a  fine  hue. 

As  to  the  bran,  its  use  is  not  to  deaden  the 
pretended  acid  salts,  but  to  disperse  throughput 
a  quantity  of  sizey  matter  ;  for  the  small  portion 
of  flour  which  remains  in  it,  dividing  itself  into 


JDYEa's    COMPANION.  117 

the  liquor,  must  diminish  in  some  measure  its 
fluidity,  and  consequently  prevent  the  colouring 
particles  which  are  suspended  in  it,  being  pre- 
cipitated too  quick,  in  a  liquor  which  had  not 
acquired  a  certain  degree  of  thickness. 

Notwithstanding  this  distributed  throughout 
the  liquor,  as  well  from  the  bran  as  the  madder, 
which  also  affords  something  glutinous,  the  co- 
louring particles  will  subside  if  the  liquor  re- 
mains some  days  without  being  stirred  ;  then 
the  top  of  the  liquor  gives  but  a  feeble  tint  to  the 
body  dipped  in,  and  if  a  strong  one  is  wanted,  the 
mixture  must  be  raked,  and  left  to  rest  an  hour 
or  two,  that  tiie  iron  in  the  copperas,  and  the 
gross  parts  of  the  lime  may  fail  to  the  bottom, 
which  otherwise  would  mix  with  the  true  co- 
louring particles,  and  prejudice  their  dye,  by 
depositing  on  the  body  to  be  dyed  a  substance 
that  would  have  but  little  adhesion,  vvhich  in  dry- 
ing would  become  friable,  and  of  which  each 
minute  part  would  occupy  a  space,  where  the 
true  colouring  particle  could  neither  introduce 
nor  deposite  itself  by  an  immediate  contact  on 
the  subject. 

Not  to  deviate  from  the  method  followed  by 
the  dyers,  I  boiled  one  part  of  grape- madder 
and  one  of  bran,  in  174  parts  of  water  :  this  pro- 
portion of  water  is  not  necessary,  more  or  less 
may  be  put,  but  I  wanted  to  fill  my  vessel, 
which  contained  512  parts.  I  passed  this  bever 
through  a  cloth  and  squeezed  it  putting  this  li- 
quor, still  hot,  and  which  was  of  a  blood-red,  into 
the  indigo  liquor,  ooserving  the  necessary  pre- 
cautions to  prevent  the  breaking  of  the  glass  ves- 
sel. The  whole  was  well  stirred,  and  two  hours 
after  tJie  liquor  was  green,  and  consequently  fit 
for  dying.  It  dyed  cotton  of  a  lasting  blue, 
somewhat  brighter  than  it  was  before  the  addi- 
tion of  the  red  of  madder. 
L2 


118  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

I  shall  now  endeavour  to  find  out  the  particu- 
lar caus'-of  the  solidity  of  this  colour  ;  i>erhaps  it 
may  be  the  general  cause  of  the  tenacity  of  all 
the  rest ;  frjr  it  appears  already,  from  the  expe- 
riments above  related,  that  this  tenacity  depends 
on  the  choice  of  salts  which  are  added  to  the 
decoctions  of  the  colouring  ingredients,  when 
the  same  ingredients  contain  none  in  themselves. 
If  from  the  consequences  which  shall  result  from 
the  choice  of  these  salts,  of  their  nature,  and  of 
their  properties,  it  be  admitted  (and  it  cannot  be 
fairly  denied)  that  they  afford  more  or  less  tenui- 
ty in  the  homogeneous  colouring  parts  of  the 
dying  ingredients,  the  whole  theory  of  this  art 
will  be  discovered,  without  having  recourse  to 
uncertain  or  contested  causes. 

One  may  easily  conceive  that  the  salts  added 
to  the  indigo  vats  not  only  open  the  natural 
pores  of  the  subject  to  be  dyed,  but  also  unfold 
the  colouring  atoms  of  the  indigo. 

In  the  other  preparations  of  dyes  (to  be  men- 
tioned hereafter  J  the  woollen  stuffs  are  boiled  in 
a  solution  of  salts,  which  the  dyers  call  prepa- 
ration. In  this  preparation  tartar  and  allum  are 
generally  used.  In  some  hours  the  stuff  is  taken 
out,  slightly  squeezed,  and  kept  damp  for  some 
days  in  a  cool  place,  that  the  saline  liquor  which 
remains  in  it  may  still  act  and  prepare  it  for  the 
reception  of  the  dye  of  these  ingredients,  in  the 
decoction  of  which  it  is  plunged  to  boil  again. 
Without  this  preparation,  experience  shows  that 
the  colours  will  not  be  lasting,  at  least  for  .the 
greatest  part ;  for  it  must  be  owned  that  there 
are  some  ingredients  which  yield  lasting  colours, 
though  the  stuff  has  not  previously  undergone 
this  preparation,  because  the  ingredient  contains 
in  itself  these  salts. 

It  is  therefore  necessary,  that  tlie  natural  pores 
of  the  fibres  of  the  wool  shouid  be  enlarged  and 


byer's  companion.  119 

cleansed  by  the  help  of  those  salts,  which  are  al- 
ways somewhat  corroding,  and  perhaps  they  open 
new  pores  for  the  reception  of  the  colouring 
atoms  contained  in  .the  ingredients.  The  boil- 
ing of  this  liquor  drives  in  the  atoms  by  repeated 
strokes.  The  pores  already  enlarged  by  these 
salts,  are  further  dilated  by  the  heat  of  the  boiling 
water  ;  they  are  afterwards  contracted  by  the 
external  cold  when  the  dyed  matter  is  taken  out 
of  the  copper,  when  it  is  exposed  to  the  exter- 
nal air,  or  when  it  is  plunged  into  cold  water. 
Thus  the  colouring  atom  is  taken  in,  and  detain- 
ed in  the  pores  or  fissures  of  the  dyed  body,  by 
the  springiness  of  its  fibres,  which  have  contract- 
ed and  restored  themselves  to  their  first  state, 
and  have  re-assumed  their  primary  stiffness  upon 
being  exposed  to  the  cold. 

If,  besides  this  spring  of  the  sides  of  the  pore, 
it  be  supposed  that  these  sides  have  beenplaister. 
ed  inwardly  with  a  layer  of  the  saline  liquor,  it 
will  appear  plainly  that  this  is  another  means 
employed  by  art  to  detain  the  colouring  atom  ; 
for  this  itom  havitig  entered  into  the  pore,while 
the  saline  cement  of  the  sides  was  yet  in  a  state  of 
solution,  and  consequently  fluid  ;  and  this  ce- 
ment being  afterwards  congealed  by  the  external 
cold,  the  atom  is  thereby  detained  ;  by  the  spring 
which  has  been  mentioned,  and  by  this  saline 
cement,  which  by  crystalization  is  become  hard, 
forms  a  kind  of  mastic  which  is  not  easily  re- 
moved. 

If  the  coloured  atom,  (which  is  as  small  as  the 
little  eminence  that  appears  at  the  entrance  of 
the  pore,  and  without  which  the  subject  would 
not  appear  dyed)  be  sufficiently  protuberant  to  be 
exposed  to  more  powerful  shocks  than  the  resis- 
tance of  the  sides  of  the  cement  that  retains  it, 
then  the  dye  resulting  from  all  these  atoms  suffi- 
ciently retained,  will  be  extremely  lasting,  and 


120  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

in  tlie  rank  of  the  good  dye,  provided  the  saline 
coat  can  neither  be  carried  ofF  by  cold  water, 
such  as  rain,  nor  calcined  or  reduced  to  powder 
by  the  rays  of  the  sun  ;  for  every  lasting  colour, 
or  colour  belonging  to  the  good  dye,  must  with- 
stand these  two  proofs.  No  other  can  reasona- 
bly be  expected  in  stuffs  designed  for  apparel  or 
furniture. 

I  know  but  of  two  salts  in  chymistry,  which, 
being  once  crystalized,  can  be  moistened  with 
cold  water  without  dissolving  ;  and  there  are 
few  besides  these  that  can  remain  several  days 
exposed  to  the  sun,  without  being  reduced  to  a 
flower  or  white  powder.  These  are  tartar,  ei- 
ther as  taken  from  the  wine  vessels,  or  purified, 
and  tartar  of  vitriol.  The  tartar  of  vitriol  may 
be  made  by  mixing  a  salt  already  alkalized,  (or 
that  may  become  such  when  the  acid  is  drove 
out  with  a  salt  whose  acid  is  vitriolic,  as  cop- 
peras and  allum)  ;  this  is  easily  effected  if  it  be 
weaker  than  the  acid  of  vitric^l,  and  such  is  the 
acid  of  all  essential  salts  extracted  from  vegeta- 
bles. 

In  the  process  of  the  blue  vat,  which  I  tried 
in  small,  to  discover  the  cause  of  its  effects, 
copperas  and  potash,  (which  is  a  prepared  al- 
kali) are  mixed  together  ;  as  soon  as  these  so- 
lutions are  united?  the  alkali  precipitates  the 
iron  of  the  copperas  in  f-rm  of  powder  iilmost 
black  ;  the  vitriolic  acid  of  the  copperas,  divest- 
ed of  its  metallic  basis  by  its  union  with  the  al- 
kali, forms  a  neutral  salt,  called  tartar  of  vitriol, 
as  vvhen  made  vvith  the  salt  of  tartar  and  the  vi- 
triolic acid  already  separated  from  its  basis  ;  for 
all  alkalis,  from  \'.  hatever  vegetables  they  are 
extracted,  arc  perfectly  alike,  provided  they 
havo  been  equally  calcined. 

More  difficulties  uill  occur  with  regard  to  the 
water  for  the  preparaiioa  of  other  colours,  such 


dyer's  companion.  121 

as  reds  and  yellows*  It  may  be  denied  that  a 
tartar  of  vitriol  can  result  from  the  mixture  of 
allum  and  crude  tartar  boiled  together  ;  yet  the 
theory  is  the  same,  and  I  do  not  know  that  it 
can  be  otherwise  conceived.  The  allum  is  a 
salt,  consisting  of  the  vitriolic  acid  united  with 
an  earth  ;  by  adding  an  alkali,  the  earth  is  im- 
mediately precipitated,  and  the  tartar  soon 
forms  ;  but  instead  of  this  alkaline  salt,  allum 
is  boiled  with  the  crude  tartar,  which  is  the  es- 
sential salt  of  wine,  that  is,  a  salt  composed  of  the 
vinous  acid,  (which  is  more  volatile  than  the  vi- 
triolic) and  of  oil,  both  concentrated  in  a  small 
portion  of  earth. 

This  salt,  as  is  known  to  chymists,  becomes 
alkali  by  divesting  it  of  its  acid.  Thus  when 
the  allum  and  crude  tartar  arc  boiled  together, 
besides  the  impression  which  the  fibres  of  the 
stuff  to  be  dyed  receive  from  the  first  of  these 
salts,  which  is  somewhat  corrosive,  the  tartar 
is  also  purified,  and  by  the  addition  of  the  earth, 
which  is  separated  from  the  allum,  (and  which 
has  near  the  same  effect  upon  the  tartar,  as  the 
earth  of  Afervieis,  which  is  used  at  Montpellier 
in  manufacturing  cream  of  tartar)  it  becomes 
clear  and  transparent.  It  may  very  probably 
happen  that  the  vitriolic  acid  of  the  allum,  driv- 
ing out  a  part  of  the  vegetable  acid  of  the  tartar, 
a  tartar  of  vitriol  may  be  formed  as  hard 
and  transparent  as  the  crystal  of  tartar.  Ad- 
mitting one  or  other  of  these  suppositions,  con- 
sequently there  is  in  the  open  pores  of  the  wool 
a  saline  cement  which  crystalizes  as  soon  as  the 
stuff  which  comes  out  of  the  dye  is  exposed  to 
the  cold  air,  which  cannot  be  calcined  by  heat, 
nor  is  soluble  in  cold  water.  I  could  not  avoid 
making  this  digression. 

This  theory  is  common  to  the  indigo  vat, 
where  urine  is  used  instead  of  water  ;  allum 


122  -APPENDIX  TO  THIT 

and  crude  tartar  in  the  place  of  vitriol  and  pot- 
ash. This  urine  vat  gives  a  lasting  dye  only 
when  used  hot,  and  then  the  wool  must  remain 
in  an  hour  or  two  to  take  the  dye  equally.  As 
soon  as  the  Aat  is  cold  she  strikes  no  more  dye ; 
the  reason  of  this  would  be  difficult  to  discover 
in  an  opaque  metal  vat,  but  in  a  glass  vessel  it 
is  easih'  seen. 

I  let  this  little  glass  proof  vat  cool,  and  all  the 
green  colour,  which  was  suspended  in  it  while 
hot,  precipitated  little  by  little^  to  the  bottom  j 
for  then  the  tartar  crystalizing  itself,  and  reuni- 
ting in  heavier  masses  than  its  moculas  were 
during  the  heat  of  the  liquor»  and  its  solution, 
it  sunk  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  and  carried 
with  it  the  colouring  particles. 

When  I  restored  this  liquor  to  its  former  de- 
gree of  heat,  after  shaking  it,  and  letting  it  settle 
a  while,  I  dipped  a  piece  of  cloth,  which  I  took 
out  one  hour  after,  with  as  lasting  a  dye  as  at  the 
iirst  ;  so  that  when  this  vat  is  used  and  fit  to 
work,  the  tartar  is  to  be  kept  in  a  state  of  solution, 
which  cannot  be  done  but  by  a  pretty  strong 
heat.  The  alkali  of  the  urine  greens  it,  the  al- 
lum  prepares  the  fibres  of  the  wool,  and  the 
crystal  of  tartar  secures  the  dye  by  cementing 
the  colouring  atoms  deposited  in  the  pores. 

There  still  remains  a  difficulty  with  respect 
to  the  indigo  vat,  in  which,  neither  vitriol,  al- 
lum  or  tartar  are  used,  but  only  pearl  ash  or  a 
fixed  alkali  in  equal  qu;»ntity  with  the  indigo, 
and  which  is  pretty  briskly  heated  to  dye  the 
wool  and  stuffs.  But  before  I  enter  into  the 
cause  of  the  solidity  of  its  dye,  which  is  equal 
to  that  of  the  other  blue  vats  where  the  other 
salts  already  mentioned  enter,  I  must  examine 
into  the  nature  of  pearlash ;  it  is  a  vegetable 
fixed  alkali  obtained  from  ashes  and  are  the 
salts  of  lies  calcined  ;  potash  is  of  the  same 


dyer's  coMPANioir.  123 

nature,  and  from  the  ^ame  source,  but  the 
process  is  a  little  different  in  manufacturing 
it ;  it  is  not  so  mild  and  pure  as  the  pe<irlash, 
it  contains  a  much  iargx^r  quantity  of  earth,  and 
operates  in  the  dye  more  quick  and  active. 
Some  erroneously  formed  an  idea  that  these 
alkalis  were  the  lees  of  wine,  and  lost  their  acid 
substance  by  calcination,  as  Mr.  Haigh,  (dyer 
of  Leeds,)  observes  on  the  nature  of  pearl-ashes; 
"  which  are  the  lees  of  wine  dried  and  calcin- 
ed :  it  is  therefore  an  alkaline  salt,  of  the  nature 
of  salt  of  tartar,  but  less  pure  as  proceeding 
from  the  heaviest  parts  of  the  dregs  of  wine,  and 
consequently  the  most  earthy;  besides,  the  alka- 
li of  the  pearlash  is  never  as  homogeneous  as  the 
alkaline  salt  of  tartar  well  calcined,  and  there  are 
scarcely  any  pearlash  not  putrified,  from  which 
a  considerable  quantity  of  tartar  of  vitriol  may 
not  beobtained  ;  it  is  even  probable  by  an  expe* 
riment  which  I  have  related,  that  it  might  at 
length  be  entirely  converted  into  this  neutral  saltl 
the  same  may  be  said  of  potash,  and  of  all  other 
alkaline  salts,  whose  basis  are  not  that  of  the 
marine  salt." 

This  is  an  error  of  Mr.  Haigh,  for  pot  and 
pearl. ashes  have  not  the  least  connection  with  tar- 
tar or  lees  of  wine,  or  tartar  of  vitriol,  and  it 
cannot  be  converted  into  a  neutral  salt- 
Mr.  Haigh  and  all  others  that  form  this  opin- 
ion, are  in  an  error,  for  the  alkali  of  pot  and 
pearl-ashes  and  lime,  have  not  the  least  share 
of  acid  in  them-  Whatever  qualities  they  may 
be  possessed  of  in  nature,  are  hidden  from  us  till 
reduced  to  atoms,  by  the  elementary  heat.  The 
pot  and  pearl-ashes  are  hidden  in  the  plants  or 
vegetable  world,  some  vegetables  possess  more 
oleatic  than  others  ;  the  lime  is  hidden  in  the 
earthy  or  stones,  and  its  alkali  substance  is  not 


124  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

discovered  till  it  is  obtained  by  fire  and  air.  The 
animal  world  are  more  or  less  alkali ;  for  in- 
stance, the  oyster  shell.  The  alkali  is  found  by 
the  same  element ;  however,  the  animal  world 
are  more  or  less  acidous,  as  will  be  shown  here- 
after in  manufacturing  indigo  and  woad. 

Of  Borax. —  The  nature  of  borax  is  a  neutral 
salt,  used  to  correct  the  acid  that  arises  from  the 
vegetable  substances  of  wheat  bran  and  madder, 
(notdiluted)  by  fermentation  creates  an  acid  with 
the  alkali  of  a  volatile,  urinous  substance  ;  and 
likewise  the  indigo  and  woad,  have  a  certain  de- 
gree of  acid,  uncertain  to  determine,  and  if  the 
acid  should  have  the  advantage  of  the  alkali,  and 
is  not  discovered  soon  enough,  the  dye  is  lost;  so 
it  requires  borax  or  some  neutral  substance  to 
correct  the  acid,  and  to  act  with  them  both,  and 
it  cannot  be  aifected  only  by  neutral  salts,  or  a 
substitute  of  the  same  nature. 

I  must  now  give  the  reason  why  the  indigo 
vat  is  green  under  the  first  surface  of  the  liquor ; 
why  this  liquor  must  be  green  that  the  blue 
dye  may  be  lasting,  and  why  the  stuff' that  is  ta- 
ken green  out  of  the  liquor  becomes  blue  as 
soon  as  it  is  aired.  All  these  conditions  being 
of  necessity  common  to  all  indigo  vats  either 
cold  or  hot,  the  same  explication  will  serve  for 
them  all. 

1.  The  flurry  which  rises  on  the  surface  of  the 
indigo  liquor  when  it  is  fit  dye  is  blue,  and  the 
under  part  of  this  scum  is  green  ;  these  two  cir. 
cumstances  prove  the  perfect  solution  of  the  in- 
digo, and  that  the  alkaline  salt  is  united  to  its 
colouring  atoms  since  it  greens  them,  for  without 
they  would  remain  blue. 

2.  These  circumstances  prove  that  there  is 
also  in  the  indigo  a  volatile  urinous  alkali,  which 
the  fixt  alkali  of  the  potash,  or  the  alkaline  earth 
of  the  lime  displays,  and  which  evaporates  very 


IDyer's  companion..  '125 

Jihortly  after  the  exposition  of  this  scum  to  the 
air.  The  existence  of  this  urinous  volatile  ap- 
pears plainly  by  the  sniell  of  the  vat  during  the 
fermentation ;  when  stirred,  or  when  heated,  the 
smell  is  sharp,  and  resembles  that  of  stinkuig 
meat  roasted. 

3.  In  the  preparation  of  the  anil,  in  order  to 
separate  the  fecula,  a  fermentation  is  continued 
to  putrefaction.  All  rotten  plants  are  urinous. 
This  volatile  urinous  quality  is  produced  by  the 
intimate  union  of  salts  with  the  vegetable  oil,  or 
is  owing  to  a  prodigious  quantity  of  insects  fall- 
ing on  all  sides  of  fermenting  plantj),  and  attract* 
ed  by  the  smell  exhaling  from  them,  where  they 
live,  multiply,  and  die  in  them,  and  consequent- 
ly deposit  a  number  of  dead  bodies ;  therefore  to 
this  vegetable  substance  an  animal  one  is  united, 
whose  salt  is  always  an  urinous  volatile.  This 
same  urinous  quality  exists  also  in  the  woad, 
which  is  prepared  after  the  same  manner,  viz. 
by  fermentation  and  putrefaction,  and  which 
will  be  further  explained  in  the  narrative  of  its 
preparation. 

4.  And  lastly,  if  indigo  or  woad  be  distilled 
in  a  retort,  either  alone,  or  (which  is  much  bet- 
ter} with  some  fixed  saline  or  earthy  alkali  add- 
ed to  it,  a  liquor  will  be  obtained,  which,  by  all 
chymical  essays,  produces  the  same  effects  as 
volatile  spirits  of  urine. 

Why  does  not  this  volatile  urinous  quality  in 
the  indigo  cause  it  to  appear  green,  since  it 
must  be  equally  distributed  through  all  itsparts? 
And  why  does  indigo,  being  dissolved  in  plain 
boiling  water,  tinge  it  blue  and  not  green  ?  It  is 
because  this  volatile  urinous  salt  is  not  concret- 
ed that  it  requires  another  body  more  active 
than  boiling  water  to  drive  it  out  of  the  par- 
ticles surrounding  it ;  and  the  solution  of  indigo 
ig  never  perfected  by  water  alone ;  whatever  de- 
■M 


156  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

gi'ee  of  heat  is  given,  it  is  only  diluted,  and  not 
dissolved  in  it.  Indeed  this  decoction  of  indigo 
blues  the  stuffs  that  are  dipped,  but  the  blue  is 
not  equally  laid  on,  and  boiling  water  almost  in- 
stantly  discharges  it.  I  shall  endeavour  to 
answer  this  by  an  example  drawn  from  another 
subject. 

Salt  ammoniac,  from  which  chymists  extract 
the  most  penetrating  volatile  spirit,  has  not  that 
cjuick  urinous  smell  by  dissolving  and  boiling  it 
in  water  ;  either  lime,  or  fixed  alkaline  salt,  must 
be  added  to  disengage  the  urinous  volatile  parts. 
In  like  manner,  the  indigo  requires  fixed  saline, 
or  earthy  alkalis,  to  be  exacdy  discomposed, 
that  its  volatile  urinous  salt  may  be  discovered, 
and  that  its  colouring  atoms  may  be  reduced 
probably  to  their  elementary  minuteness. 

1  now  come  to  the  second  quality  required. 
The  liquor  of  the  indigo  vat  must  be  green,  that 
the  dye  may  be  lasting  ;  for  the  indigo  would 
not  be  exactly  dissolved,  if  the  alkali  did  not  act 
ijpon  it.  Its  solution  not  being  as  perfect  as  it 
ought  to  be,  its  dye  would  be  neither  equal  nor 
lasting ;  but  as  soon  as  the  alkaline  salts  act  up- 
on it,  tl^iey  must  green  it  :  for  an  alkali,  mixed 
with  the  blue  juice  or  tincture  of  any  plant  or 
flower,  immediately  turns  it  green,  when  equally 
distributed  on  all  its  colouring  p^irts.  But  if  by 
evaporation  these  same  parts,  coloured,  or  co- 
louring, have  re-united  themselves  into  hard  and 
compact  masses,  the  alkali  v/ill  not  change  their 
colour  till  it  has  penetrated,  divided,  and  reduc- 
ed them  to  their  primary  fineness.  _  This  is  the 
case  with  indigo,  whose  fecula  is  the  dry  in- 
spissated juice  of  the  anil. 

With  respect  to  the  last  circumstance,  which 
is  that  the  stuff  must  be  green  on  coming  out  of 
t\ie  liquor.,  and  become  blue  as  soon  as  it  is  air- 
c{\,  without  which,  the  blue  would  not  be  of  ;i 


dyer's  companion.  127 

good  dye,  the  following  reasons  may  be  given :  it 
is  taken  out  green  because  the  liquor  is  green  ; 
if  it  was  not,  the  alkaline  salt  put  into  the  vat 
would  not  be  equally  distributed,  or  the  indigo 
would  not  be  exactly  dissolved.  If  the  alkali 
was  not  equally  distributed,  the  liquor  contain- 
ed in  the  vat  would  not  be  equally  saline  :  the 
bottom  of  this  liquor  would  contain  all  the  salt ; 
the  upper  would  be  insipid.  In  this  case  the  stuff 
dipped  in  would  neither  be  prepared  to  receive 
the  dye,  nor  to  retain  it;  but  when  it  is  taken  out 
green  at  the  end  of  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  dipping 
it  is  a  proof  that  the  liquor  was  equally  salinCj 
and  equally  loaded  with  colouring  atoms  ;  it  is 
also  a  sign,  that  the  alkaline  salts  have  insinuated 
themselves  into  the  pores  of  the  fibres  of  the 
stuff  and  enlarged  them,  as  has  been  observed, 
and  perhaps  have  formed  new  ones.  Now  there 
can  be  no  boubtthatan  alkaline  salt  may  have  this 
effect  on  a  woollen  stuff,  when  it  is  evident  that 
a  very  sharp  alkaline  lie  burns  and  dissolves  aU 
most  in  an  instant  a^  fl-ock  of  wool  or  a  feathen 

A  process  in  dying  called,  by  the  French, 
fonte  de  bourre^  that  is  the  melting  or  dissolving 
of  flock  or  hair,  is  still  a  further  example-  The 
hair,  which  is  used  and  boiled  in  a  solution  of 
pearlash  in  urine,  is  so  perfectly  dissolved  as 
not  to  leave  the  least  fibre  remaining.  There- 
fore if  a  lixivium,  extremely  sharp,  entirely  de- 
stroys the  wool,  a  lie  which  shall  have  but  a 
quantityof  alkaline  salt  sufficient  to  act  on  the 
wool  without  destroying  it,  will  prepare  the 
pores  to  receive  and  preserve  the  colouring 
atoms  of  the  indigo. 

The  stuff  is  aired  after  being  taken  green  out 
of  the  vat,  and  after  wringing  it  becomes  blue. 
What  is  done  by  airing?  it  is  cooled  ;  if  it  is 
the  urinous  volatile  detached  from  the  indigo 
which  gave  it  this  green  colour,  it  evaporates, 
and  the  blue  appears  again;  if  it  is  the  fixed 


128  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

alkaline  that  causes  this  green,  not  only  tlie 
greatest  part  is  carried  off  by  the  str.ing  expres- 
sion of  the  stuff,  but  what  remains  can  have  no 
more  action  on  the  colouring  part,  because  the 
small  atom  of  tartar  of  vitriol,  which  contains 
a  coloured  atom  still  less  than  itself,  is  crysta- 
lized  the  instant  of  its  exposition  to  the  cold  air, 
and  contracting  this  same  colouring  atom  by  the 
help  of  the  spring  at  the  sides  of  the  pore,  ii  en- 
tirely presses  out  the  remainder  of  the  alkali, 
which  does  not  crystalize  as  a  neutral  salt.  ^ 

The  blue  is  roused,  that  is,  it  becomes  bright- 
er and  finer  by  soaking  the  dyed  stuff  in  warm 
water,  for  then  the  colouring  particles,  which 
had  only  a  superficial  adherence  to  the  fibres  of 
the  wool  are  carried  off.  Soap  is  used  as  a 
proof  of  the  lasting  of  the  blue  dj^e,  and  it  must 
stand  it,  for  the  soap,  which  is  only  used  in  a 
small  quantity  in  proportion  to  the  water,  and 
whose  action  on  the  dyed  pattern  is  fixed  to  five 
minutes,  is  an  alkali,  mitigated  by  the  oil,  which 
cannot  act  upon  a  neutral  salt.  If  it  discharg- 
es the  pattern  of  any  part  of  its  colour,  it  is  be- 
cause its  parts  were  but  superficially  adhering  ; 
besides,  the  little  saline  crystal  which  is  set  in 
the  pore,  whose  use  is  to  cement  the  colouring 
atom,  cannot  be  dissolved  in  so  short  a  time, 

o  as  to  come  out  of  the  pore  with  the  atom  it 

ctains. 

This  treatise  lays  down  the  essay  of  a  me- 
thod of  dying  different  from  any  hitherto  offer- 
ed. I  appeal  to  philosophers,  who  would  think 
litde  of  a  simple  narrative  of  processes,  if  I  did 
not  at  the  same  time  give  tiieir  theorj'.  I  shall 
follow  this  method  in  the  other  experiments  on 
reds,  the  yello\^  s,  or  other  simple  colours,  as  it 
is  absolutely  necessary  to  have  a  knowledge  of 
them  before  entering  on  the  compound,  as  these 
are  generally  but  colours  laid  on  one  after  th,e 


dyer's  companion.  129 

other,  and  seldom  mixed  together  in  the  same 
liquor  or  decoction. 

Thus  having  once  the  knowledge  of  what 
procures  the  tenacity  of  a  simple  colour,  it  will 
be  more  easily  known,  if  the  second  colour  can 
take  place  in  the  spaces  the  first  have  left  emp- 
ty without  displacing  the  first. 

This  is  the  idea  which  1  have  formed  to  my- 
self of  the  arrangement  of  different  colours  laid 
on  the  same  stuff,  for  it  appears  to  me  a  matter 
of  great  difficulty  to  conceive  that  the  colouring 
atoms  can  place  themselves  the  one  on  the  other, 
and  thus  form  kinds  of  pyramids,  each  still  pre- 
serving their  colour,  so  that  from  a  mixture  of  the 
whole  a  compound  colour  shall  result,  and  which, 
notwithstanding,  shall  appear  uniform,  and  as  it 
were  homogeneous-  To  adopt  this  system,  we 
must  suppose  a  transparency  in  these  atoms, 
which  it  would  be  difficult  to  demonstrate  ;  and 
further,  that  a  yellow  atom  must  place  itself 
immediately  on  a  blue  one,  already  set  in  the 
pore  of  the  fibre  of  a  stuff,  and  that  it  must  re- 
main there  strongly  bound,  so  that  they  must 
touch  each  other  with  extreme  smooth  sur- 
faces, and  so  with  every  new  colour  laid  on. 

It  is  not  easy  to  conceive  all  this,  and  it  ap- 
pears more  probable,  that  the  first  colour  has 
only  taken  up  the  pores  that  it  found  open  by 
the  first  preparation  of  the  fibres  of  the  stuff; 
that  on  the  side  of  these  pores  there  remains 
more  still  to  be  filled,  or  at  least  spaces  not  oc- 
cupied, where  new  pores  may  be  opened  to 
lodge  the  new  atoms  of  a  second  colour,  by  the 
means  of  a  second  preparation  of  water,  compos- 
ed of  corroding  salts,  which  being  the  same  as 
those  of  the  first  preparing  liquor,  willnot  de- 
stroy the  first  saline  crystals  introduced  into 
the  first  pores. 

What  has  been  ah-eady  said  with  regard  to  the 
M2 


130  APFEXDIX  TO  THE 

indigo  vat,  may  also  serve  to  explain  the  action 
of  the  woad  vat  on  wool  and  siufFs  ;  it  is  only 
supposing  in  the  woad»  that  salts  do  naturally 
exist,  pretty  near  of  affinity  to  those  that  are  add- 
ed to  the  indigo  vat.  It  appears  by  the  descrip- 
tion given  of  these  vats,  that  the  woad  vat  is  by 
much  the  most  difficult  to  conduct.  I  am  con- 
yinced  that  these  difficulties  miglit  be  removed, 
if  an  attempt  was  made  to  prepare  the  isatis  as 
the  anil  is  in  the  West  Indies.  1  shall  therefore 
compare  their  diftl-rent  preparations.  I  have 
taken  the  follo^ving  narrative  from  the  memoirs 
of  Mr.  Astruc's  Histoire  Naturelle  du  Lan- 
guedoc-  Parisy  Cavalier  1737,  in  4to,  p.  330 
and  331. 

"  According  to  the  opinion  of  dyers,  woad 
only  gives  feeble  and  languishing  colours ; 
whereas  those  of  the  indigo  are  lively  and  bright* 
This  opinion  I  grant  is  conformable  to  reason  : 
the  indigo  is  a  fine  subtle  po'vder  ;  consequent- 
ly ciipahle  to  penetrate  the  stuffs  easily,  and  give 
them  a  shining  colour-  The  woad,  on  the  con- 
trdry^  is  only  a  gross  plant,  loaded  with  many 
earthy  parts,  whir.h  slacken  the  action  and  mo- 
tion of  the  finer  parts,  and  prevent  them  from 
acting  effectually. 

"  I  know  but  one  way  to  remove  this  incon- 
Tenienr  y,  that  is,  to  prepare  the  woad  after  the 
same  manner  the  indigo  is  prepared  ;  by  this 
means.the  colours  obtrancdfrom  the  woad  would 
acq  lire  the  lively  and  bright  qualifies  of  those 
procured  from  the  indigo,  without  diminishing 
in  the  least  the  excellency  of  the  colours  pro- 
duced by  the  woad. 

*'  I  have  already  made  in  small*  experiments 

-*  As  this  ingenious  man  has  succeeded  in  small  experi- 
ments, it  is  probable  he  would  also  in  the  large   ones  ;  and 
hen  this  plant  easUy  cultivated  in  America  would  well  re- 
'ompence  the  pains  oi  the  hos^aodmair. 


DYER^S    COMPANION.  131 

on  what  I  propose,  and  those  experiments  have 
succeeded,  not  only  in  the  preparation  of  th« 
powder  of  vvoad,  but  also  in  the  use  of  this  pow- 
der for  dying." 

It  is  incumbent  on  those  who  have  the  pub- 
lic good  at  heart,  to  cause  trials  at  large  to  be 
made,  and  if  they  have  the  success  that  can  rea- 
sonably be  expected,it  will  be  proper  to  encourage 
those  who  cultivate  woad,  to  follow  this  new 
method  of  preparing  it,  and  offer  premiums  to 
enable  them  to  sustain  the  expenses  this  new 
pactice  will  engage  them  in,  until  the  advantage 
they  will  reap  from  it  may  be  sufficient  to  deter- 
mine them  to  follow  it. 

I  shall  now  propose  the  means  to  succeed  in 
Mr-  Astruc's  experiments,  and  these  means  na- 
turally result  from  considering  the  method  used 
in  Languedoc  for  the  preparation  of  woad,  and 
the  ingenious  method  by  which  they  separate 
the  fecula  of  the  anil  in  America.  I  shall  give 
the  preparation  of  this  last  in  the  sequel ;  those 
who  desire  a  fuller  description  may  consult 
VHistoire  des  Antiles  du  P  du  Tertre  &?  du  jP. 
Labat.  The  following  preparation  of  the  pastel, 
or  garden  woad,  is  thus  described  by  Mr.  As- 
true. 

The  preparation  of  indigo  and  pofask' — The 
preparation  of  potash  requires  no  other  perfr^rm- 
ance  than  to  dissolve  it  in  warm  water,  with 
constant  stirring  ;  say  one  gallon^  of  water  to 
every  two  pounds  of  potash,  let  it  stand  and 
cool,  and  keep  it  from  filth  and  dirt,  be  care- 
ful and  not  have  it  disturbed,  that  the  earthly 
parts  may  settle  to  the  bottom,  and  the  lie  pour- 
ed off  by  inclination,  leaving  the  lees  to  be  cast 
away  ;  the  pot  and  pearl-ashes  must  be  kept  in  a 
clean  tight  vessel,  to  exclude  it  from  the  air, 
otherwise  it  will  dissolve  and  loose  its  sub- 
stance, and  you  cannot  ^certaij^  its  qualitiei^. 


132  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

For  indigo. — All  indigo  requires  to  be  pul- 
verized to  a  powder,  or  ground  to  a  paste,  let  it 
be  used  in  what  dye  it  will,  but  for  blue  I  shall 
give  the  several  processes  that  I  conceive  to  be 
the  most  correct.    In  the  first  place,  take  and 
weigh  the  quantity  of  indigo  required  for  setting 
or  recruiting  your  dye  ;  then  wash  it  with  clean 
water,  pour  off  the  water,  it  will  take  all  the 
loose  dirt ;  then  beat  it  small  that  the  balls  or 
grinding  may  be  performed,  then  take  as  much 
of  the  potash  lie,  prepared    as  above,    as  is 
necessary  to  have  the  balls  run  free,  and  the  grind- 
ing done  with  ease,  grind  it  to  a  paste ;  or  if  this 
is  neglected  ap.d  it  is  not  ground  to  a  paste  or 
powder,  the  indigo  is  lost,  for  it  will  not  dissolve 
in  the  dye,  as  some  erroneously  imagine,  but  be- 
comes coated  and  congealed,  and  looses  itsactive 
part  with  the  other  ingredients.    This  is  the 
preparation  of  indigo  for  the  blue  vat,  let  it  al- 
ways be  ready  ground  before  setting  your  vat ; 
set  it  aside,  covered  close  to  prevent  evaporation^ 
and  to  keep  the  dirt  and  filth  from  it.     Some  in- 
digo will  be  difterently   prepared,   or  with  dif- 
ferent alkalis,  but  the  grinding  must  be  the  same. 
Lime  waters  :  (after  the  preparation  of  the  lime,, 
which  will  be  given  hereafter,)  when  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  use  the  lie  of  lime,  take  two  quarts 
of  lime  to  every  gallon  of  water,  put  them  in  a, 
tub,  stir  tlx^m  well  together,  let  stand  twelve 
hours  ;  then  pour  off  the  lie  to  your  indigo  to- 
your  liking;   some  processes  will    be  to  use 
sig  or  urine,  when  this  is  necessary  take   one 
bushel  of  ashes,  one  peck  of  stone  lime,  put 
them  in  a  leech,  wet  them  with  warm  water, 
then  leech  as  much  sig  till  the  strength  is  out  of 
your  leech,  wet  your  indigo,  &c.  ;  to  dissolve 
the  indigo  with  vinegar  a  vegetable  acid,  the 
indigo  is  placed  with  the  vinegar  in  a  kettle  over 
a  moderate  fire  and  kept  warm  twenty-four 
hours,  that  the  acid  may  evaporate,  &c. 


©YER's   COMPANIOlf.  133 

Preparation  of  Lime, 

That  the  lime  may  be  properly  slacked  for 
the  dyer's  use,  take  some  convenient  place  to 
pour  water  on  the  lime  till  it  begins  to  slack  and 
crack,  tlien  cast  it  into  an  empty  vessel,  where  the 
lime  finishes  slacking,  and  reduces  itself  to  pow- 
der, considerably  augmenting  its  bulk ;  it  is 
afterwards  sifted  through  a  canvas,  and  kept 
in  a  dry  hogshead. 
^  Sour  liquors  are  not  only  necessary  in  some 
circumstances  of  setting  a  woad  vat,  but  also 
in  some  of  the  preparations^  given  to  wool  and 
stuffs  previous  to  their^  being  dyed  ;  they  a»6 
prepared  after  the  following  manner : 

Preparation  of  sour  Liquors. 

A  copper  of  the  size  required  is  filled  with 
river  water,  and  when  it  boils,  it  is  flung  into 
a  hogshead,  where  a  sufficient  quantity  of  bran 
has  been  put,  and  stirred  with  a  stick  three  or 
four  times  a  day.  The  proportion  of  bran  and 
water  is  not  very  material ;  I  have  made  a^  good 
liquor  by  putting  three  bushels  of  bran  into  a 
vessel  containing  seventy  gallons.  Four  or  five 
days  after,  this  water  becomes  sour,  and  conse- 
quently fit  for  use  in  all  cases,  where  it  will  not 
be  detrimental  to  the  preparations  of  wool  that 
are  independent  of  dying. 

For  it  may  happen,  that  wool  in  the  fleece 
which  has  been  dyed  in  a  liquor  where  too  great 
a  quantity  of  sour  water  has  been  put,  will  be 
harder  to  spin,  as  the  sediment  of  the  bran 
forms  a  sort  of  starch  that  glues  the  fibres  of 
the  wool,  and  prevents  them  from  forming  an 
even  thread.  I  must  here  take  notice  of  the 
bad  custom  of  letting  sour  liquors  remain  in 
copper- vessels,  as  I  have  seen  in  some  eminei^ 


134  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

dye-houses  ;  for  this  liquor  being  an  acid,  cor- 
rodes the  copper,  and  if  it  remains  long  enough 
to  take  in  a  portion  of  this  metal)  it  will  cause 
a  defect  both  in  the  dye  and  in  the  quality  of 
the  stuff:  in  the  dye,  because  the  dissolved 
copper  gives  a  "greenish  cast;  in  the  quality  of 
the  stuff,  because  the  copper  dissolved  preys 
on  all  animal  substances-  The  dyers  are  often 
ignorant  of  the  cause  of  these  defects. 

I  flatter  myself  I  shall  omit  no  essential 
point  on  the  woad  vat :  if  any  difficulties  or  ac- 
cidents, which  I  have  mentioned,  are  not  found 
in  the  practice  they  are  not  considerable,  and 
an  easy  remedy  will  be  found  by  those  who 
make  themselves  familiar  with  the  working 
part. 

The  readers  who  have  no  idea  of  this  work, 
may  think  me  too  prolix,  and  find  repetitions  ; 
but  those  who  intend  to  make  use  of  what  I 
have  taught  in  this  chapter,  will  perhaps  re- 
proach me  for  not  having  said  enough  on  the 
subject. 

Those  that  read  this  chapter  with-  attention, 
will  not  be  surprised  that  the  master-piece  for 
apprentices  to  dyers  of  the  great  dye,  is,  to  set 
the  woad  vat  and  work  her. 

Sxceijit  \2Qth.   To  set  a  vat  of  24  barrels^  as  practised 
in  America. 

Take  121b.  of  potash,  dissolve  as  before  des- 
cribed ;  161b-  of  good  indigo  prepared  and 
ground  as  before  directed.  Cor  if  you  have  woad 
omit  41b.  of  indigo,)  and  add  161b.  of  woad, 
take  16Ib  of  madder  and  16  quarts  of  wheat 
bran,  and  weigh  3-4  of  a  pound  of  borax. 

The  setting.  —  To  cleanse  the  water,  take 
about  twelve  bushels  of  ashes  with  a  half  bush- 
el of  stone  lime  and  let  all  the  water  run  through 
tius  leech  to  cleanse  it  for  your  blue,  when  the 


©VER's  COMPANlOJf.  135 

water  is  thus  prepared,  fill  the  vat  with  it  scald- 
ing hot ;  then  fill  your  boiler  with  the  leeched  wa- 
ter, then  add  the  madder,  wheat  bran,  and  half 
tlie  potash  lie  that  remains  after  grinding  the 
indigo  already  prepared  ;  heat  this  near  boiling 
hot  with  constant  stirring,  then  empty  this  in 
tlie  vat  by  a  spout,  with  the  vat  covered  close ; 
tjien  fill  the  boiler  as  before,  put  in  the  indigo 
and  the  remaining  potash  lie,  leaving  the  sedi- 
ment behiiKl,  then  the  woad,  (if  you  have  any)  ; 
all  to  be  added  when  cold,  heat  moderately, 
with  constant  stirring  till  it  boils,  empty  it 
in  the  vat,  fill  the  vat  to  within  twelve  mches 
of  the  top,  rake  well,  cover  close,  and  let  stand 
three  hours ;  then  add  the  borax,  rake  well 
and  let  stand  ten  hours;  then  have  all  rea- 
dy prepared  ;  if  necessary  and  the  dye  has  not 
come  to  work,  have  lime  water  prepared  aG  be- 
fore described,  to  four  gallons  water,  eight  quarts 
of  lime ;  add  one  gallon  of  the  lie,  rake  well  and 
add  of  the  lime  lie  every  three  hours,  till  the  lime 
water  is  used ;  if  it  does  not  come  to  work,  have 
another  liquor  prepared,  take  two  bushels  of 
ashes,  and  one  peck  of  lime,  wet  with  warm 
water,  then,  leech  through  ten  gallons  of  sig; 
feed  the  dye  with  this  when  you  rake,  till  it 
comes  to  work,  observing  to  keep  the  vat  cover- 
ed close  to  let  the  heat  be  kept  regular  and  not 
too  low,  if  it  cools  too  much  keep  a  small  fire 
in  the  flew.  Another  sure  remedy,  have  a  few 
gallons  of  good  lively  mnlt,  and  plenty  of  hops- 
beer  in  fermentation  fit  for  drinking,  add  this  if 
necessary,  if  the  dye  does  not  come  to  work  in 
time,  forty-eight  hours,  rake  well,  (or  you  may 
add  a  pound  or  two  of  pearlash  and  rake  well.) 

To  know  when  a  dye  has  come  to  work. 

A  vat  is  fit  to  work  when  the  grounds  are  of  a 
sreen  brown,  when  it  changes,  on  its  being  taken 


dlSG  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

Cut  of  the  vat,  when  the  flurry  is  of  a  fine  Turk- 
ish or  deep  blue,  and  when  the  pattern,  which 
has  been  dipt  in  it  for  an  hour,  comes  out  of  a 
fine  deep  grass  green.  When  she  is  fit  to  work, 
the  bever  has  a  good  appearance,  clear  and  red- 
dish, and  the  drops  and  edges  that  are  formed 
under  the  rake  in  lifting  up  the  bever  are  brown. 
Examining  the  appearance  of  the  bever,  is  lift- 
ing up  the  liquor  with  the  hand  or  rake,  to  see 
what  colour  the  liquor  of  the  vat  has  under  its 
surface.  The  sediment  or  grounds  must  change 
colour  (as  has  been  already  observed)  at  being 
taken  out  of  the  bever,  and  must  grow  brown 
by  being  exposed  to  the  external  air.  The 
bever  or  liquor  must  feel  neither  too  rough  nor 
too  greasy,  and  must  not  smell  either  of  lime  or 
lie.  These  are  the  distinguishing  marks  of  a 
vat  that  is  fit  to  work. 

Wool  and  woollen  stufts  of  all  kinds,  are  dyed 
blue  without  any  other  preparation  then  wetting 
them  well  inluke-warm  water,  with  the  addition 
of  pearlash  as  before  described,  squeezing  them 
well  afterwards,  or  letting  them  drain  :  this  pre- 
caution is  necessary,  that  the  colour  may  the 
more  easily  insinuate  itself  into  the  body  of  the 
wool,  that  it  may  be  equally  dispersed  through, 
out ;  nor  is  this  to  be  omitted  in  any  kind  of 
colours,  whether  the  subject  be  wool  or  cloth. 

When  the  vat  has  come  to  work,  it  must 
stand  one  hour  after  raking,  then  open  it,  take 
off  the  flurry  or  head  with  j^our  skimmer,  and 
put  it  in  a  tub  and  co\  er  close,  that  it  may  be 
returned  into  the  vat  again,  when  you  cover  and 
rake,  after  dipping  your  goods. 

The  vat  being  come  to  work,  the  cross  must 
be  let  down,  and  about  thirty  ells  of  cloth,  or  the 
equivalent  of  its  weight  of  wool  well  scoured, 
(which  is  first  intended  to  be  dyed  of  a  Persian 
blue  to  make  a  black  afterwards) ,  having  return- 


DYER^S  COMPANIOX.  137 

ed  this  stirring  several  times,  which  must  have  al- 
ways been  covered  with  liquor,  the  cloth  must  b<; 
twisted  on  the  rings  fastened  to  the  jack  at  the 
top  of  the  vat ;  if  it  be  wool,  it  is  to  be  dipt 
with  a  net,  which  will  serve  to  wring  it :  the 
cloth  must  be  opened  by  its  lists  to  air  it,  and  to 
cool  the  green,  that  is,  to  make  it  lose  the  green 
colour  it  had  coming  out  of  the  vat,  and  take 
the  blue. 

In  the  preceding  work,  I  gave  particular  di- 
rections for  the  utensils,  and  the  management  of 
the  cloths  while  in  the  vat ;  the  same  processes 
are  to  be  observed  in  the  management  of  the 
blue  for  cloths ;  wool  is  placed  in  a  net  and  kept 
loose  and  open  by  poles  for  that  purpose,  that 
a  man  may  raise  the  wool  and  loosen  it  by  keep- 
ing one  end  of  the  pole  in  his  hand,  and  the  other 
in  the  dye  with  constant  stirring,  raising  the  wool 
but  not  exposed  to  the  air,  till  taken  up  by  the 
net  for  that  purpose,  for  if  the  air  turns  it  from 
the  green  to  blue  before  it  comes  out  of  the  vat, 
it  will  cause  it  to  take  the  dye  uneven,  caution 
must  be  used  not  to  crowd  the  dye  too  fast,  and 
never  to  keep  the  vat  long  open,  not  to  exceed 
three  hours  at  a  time,  before  you  return  your 
head,  cover  close  and  rake  well ;  if  the  dye  does 
not  colour  quick  or  active  enough,  add  when 
your  cover  and  rake ;  one  pound  of  pearlash 
or  more  according  to  the  state  of  the  dye,  judg- 
ment must  be  used  ;  be  ever  mindful  to  keep 
the  heat  regular,  if  it  gets  too  low,  it  will  retard 
business,  and  you  must  let  it  stand  some  hours, 
it  is  not  good  to  have  it  over  hot,  the  dye  will 
not  turn  to  as  much  profit ;  keep  it  near  to 
scalding  heat,  these  kind  of  vats  are  very  easily 
managed  v\'ich  attention,  as  the  dye  does  not  re- 
quire shifting  to  reheat  as  the  other  vats,  till  the 
d>'e  is  worked  oft ;  no  additions  are  to  be  made 
Uiiless  the  dye  works  too  slow,  then  you  may 
N 


/ 


138  APPENDIX    TO  THE 

add  pearlasb  or  sig  leech,  and  some  madder  if 
necessary,  and  wheat  bran.  When  the  dye  has 
lost  its  colon r,  recruit  in  manner  and  form  as 
in  setting;  if  the  dye  grows  thick,  dirty  and 
glutinous  by  use,  dip  oft'  the  top  of  the  dye 
carefully  and  let  the  sediment  be  cast  away,  and 
the  dye  boiled  and  skinrimed.  These  directions 
are  to  be  general  in  all  blue  dying,  except  other- 
wise directed  ;  almost  everj'  blue  dyer  pretends 
to  a  peculiar  hkill  or  secret  in  blue  dying,  and 
yet  the  principle  is  the  same,  for  the  colouring 
substances  indigo  and  woad,we  all  depend  upon, 
and  the  power  that  operates  them,  the  alkali,  pot 
and  pearl-ashes,  lime,  ashes,  sig,  &c.  All  the 
diiference  is  the  changing  the  order  of  them, 
and  applying  the  assisting  subjects,  as  madder 
and  wheat  bran  ;  I  shall  make  my  observations 
general  under  this,  both  for  indigo  and  woad,  in 
the  management  of  the  cloth,  wool,  and  vat ; 
then  show  the  different  methods  in  practice. 
To  return  to  the  vat ; 

If  .the  vat  be  in  good  order  at  the  first  open- 
ing, three  or  four  stirrings  or  dippings  may  be 
made,  and  the  next  day,  two  or  three  more,  only 
observing  not  to  hurry  her,  or  to  work  her  as 
strong  as  at  first.  That  the  vat  may  turn  to  as 
much  profit  as  possible  for  the  shades  of  blue  ; 
first,  all  stuffs  intended  to  be  black,  are  dyed  ; 
then  the  king's  blue ;  after  these  the  green 
brown  :  the  violets  and  Turkish  blues  are  com- 
monly done  in  the  last  rakings  of  the  second 
day  of  the  opening.^  The  third  day,  if  the  vat 
appears  much  diminished,  she  must  be  filled 
with  hot  water  within  four  inches  of  the  brim. 
This  is  called  filling  the  vat. 

The  latter  end  of  the  week,  the  light  blues 
are  made,  and  on  Saturdaj""  night,  having  r  iktd 
the  vat,  she  is  to  be  served  a  little  more  than  the 
preceding  day,  that  she  may  keep  till  Monday. 


dyer's  companion.  189 

Monday  morning  the  bever  is  put  on  the  fire, 
by  passing  it  from  the  vat  iiito  the  copper  by  a 
trough,  which  rests  on  both  ;  this  clear  bever 
is  emptied  to  the  grounds,  and  when  it  is  ready 
to  boil  it  must  be  returned  into  the  vat,  raking 
the  grounds,  as  the  hot  liquor  falls  from  the 
trough  ;  at  the  same  time  have  your  indigo  pre- 
pared, and  the  same  process  is  to  be  observed  as 
in  setting ;  it  generally  comes  to  work  much 
sooner,  (in  about  fourteen  hours) ;  manage  iii 
manner  and  form  as  before  described,  till  you 
obtain  the  colour  and  shade  required. 

The  Wood  or  Pastel  vat  ;  hoiu  managed  and  ho'w  to 
know  nvhen  a  Vat  is  cracked  by  too  great  or  too  small 
a  quantity  of  Lime  s  extremes  which  must  be  avoid- 
ed. 

When  more  lime  has  been  put  in  than  was 
sufficient  for  the  woad,  it  is  easily  perceived  by 
dipping  in  a  pattern,  which  instead  of  turning  to 
a  beautiful  grass  green,  is  only  daubed  with  a 
steely  green.  The  grovmds  do  not  change,  the 
vat  gives  scarcely  any  Hurry,  and  the  bever  has 
a  strong  odour  of  quick  lime,  or  its  lees. 

Tiiis  error  is  rectified  by  thinning  the  vat,  in 
which  the  dyers  diffl-r  ;  some  use  tartar,  others 
bran,  of  which  they  throw  a  bushel  into  the  vat, 
more  or  less  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of 
lime  used,  others  a  pail  of  urine.  In  some 
places  a  large  iron  chafing-dish  is  made  use  of, 
long  enough  to  reach  from  the  ground  to  the  top 
of  the  vat,  this  chafing-dish  or  furnace  has  a 
grate  at  a  foot  distance  from  its  bottom,  and  a 
funnel  coming  from  imder  this  grate,  and  as- 
cending to  the  top  of  the  chafing-dish,  which  is 
to  give  air  to,  and  kindle  the  coals  which  are 
placed  on  the  grate.  This  furnace  is  sunk  in 
tlie  vat,  near  to  the  surface  of  the  gromids,  so  as 


140  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

ROt  to  touch  them,  and  is  fastened  with  iron  bats 
to  prevent  its  rising.  By  this  method  the  lime 
is  raised  to  the  surface  of  the  liquor,  vvhich  gives 
an  opportunity  to  take  oif  with  a  sieve  what  is 
thought  superfluous ;  but  when  this  is  taken 
out,  the  necessary  quantity  of  ware  must  be 
earefuUy  restored  to  the  vat.  Others  again  thin 
the  vat  with  pearlash,  or  tartar  boiled  in  stale 
urine  :  but  the  best  cure,  when  she  is  too  hard, 
is,  to  put  in  bran  and  madder  at  discretion;  and 
if  she  be  but  a  little  too  hard,  it  will  suffice  to 
let  her  remain  quiet  four,  five,  or  six  hours,  or 
more,  putting  in  only  two  quarts  of  bran  and 
three  or  four  pounds  of  madder,  which  are  to  be 
lightly  strewed  on  the  vat,  after  which  it  is  to  be 
covered.  Four  or  five  hours  after,  she  is  to  be 
raked  and  plunged,  and  according  to  the  colour, 
that  the  flurry  which  arises  from  this  motion,  as- 
sumes and  imprints  on  the  whole  liquor,  a  fresh 
proof  is  made  by  putting  in  a  pntiern. 

If  she  is  cracked,  and  casts  blue  only  when 
slie  is  cold,  she  must  be  left  undisturbed,  some- 
times whole  days  without  raking  ;  when  she 
begins  to  strike  a  tolerable  pattern,  her  liquor 
must  be  reheated  or  warmed  ;  then  commonly 
the  lime,  which  seemed  to  have  lost  all  power  to 
excite  a  fermentation,  acquires  new  strength, 
and  pre^'ents  the  vat  from  yielding  its  dye  so 
soon.  If  she  is  to  be  hastened,  some  bran  and 
madder  are  to  be  thrown  on,  as  also  one  or  two 
baskets  of  new  woad,  which  helps  the  liquor 
that  has  been  reheated  to  spend  its  lime-^ 

Care  must  be  taken  to  put  patterns  in  each 
kour,  in  order  to  judge,  by  the  green  colour 
which  they  acquire,  how  the  lime  is  worked 
on.  By  these  trials  she  may  be  conducted  with 
more  exactness,  for  when  once  a  vat  is  cracked, 
by  too  great  or  too  small  a  qiiantity  of  lime,  she 
is  brought  to  bear  with  much  more  difficulty* 


dyer's  companion.  141 

If  while  you  are  endeavouring  to  bring  her  to 
work,  the  bever  grows  a  little  too  cold,  it  must 
be  heated  by  taking  off  some  of  the  clear,  and 
instead  therof,  adding  some  warm  water  ;  for 
when  the  bever  is  cold,  the  woad  spends  little  or 
no  lime  ;  when  it  is  too  hot,  it  retards  the  action 
of  the  woad,  and  prevents  it  from  spen<'ing  the 
lime  ;  therefore  it  is  better  to  wait  a  little,  than 
to  hasten  the  vats  to  come  to  work  u  hen  they 
are  cracked.     A  vat  is  known  not  to  have  been 
sufficiently  served  with  lime,  and  that  she  is 
cracked,  when  the  bever  gives  no  flurry,  but  in- 
stead tlicreof  gives  only  a  scum,  and  when  she  is 
plunged  or  raked,  she  only  works,  ferments  and 
hisses,  (this  noise  is  made  by  a  great  number  of  " 
air  bubbles  that  burst  as  soon  as  they  form),  the 
liquor  has  also  the  smell  of  a  common  sewer  or 
sink,  or  rotten  eggs  ;  it  is  harsh  and  dry  to  the 
touch ;    the  grounds  when   taken   out  do  not 
change,  which  generally  happens  when  a  vat  is 
cracked  for  want   of  lime.      This  accident  is 
chiefly  to  be  apprehendc  d  when  a  vat  is  opened 
and  a  dip  made  in  her ;  for  if  her  state  has  not 
been  looked  into,  both  in  regard  to  the  smell  as 
well  as  raking  and  plunging,  and  that  the  stuffs 
be  imprudently  put  in  v.  hen  the  woad  has  spent 
its  lime  it  is  to  be  feared  the  vat  may  be  lost ;  ^ 
for  the  stuffs  being  put  in,  the  small  quantity  of* 
lime  that  still  remains  in  a  state  to  act,  sticks  to 
them,  the  bever  is  divested  of  it,  and  the  stuffs 
only  blotted  ;  these  must  be  immediately  taken 
out,  and  a  quick  remedy  applied  to  the  vat,  to 
preserve  the  remaining  part  of  the  dye,  which  is 
done  by  putting  in  three  or  four  measures  of 
lime,  more  or  less,  according  as  the  vat  is  crack- 
ed, and  that  without  raking  her  bottom. 

It  is  also  to  be  observed,  that  if  in  raking  and 
pku.ging  the  fermentation  ceases,  and  the  bad 
snieli  change,  it  is  then  to  be  supposed  that  the^ 
N2 


142  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

bevcr  or  liquor  alone  has  sufFertd,  and  that  the 
grounds  are  not  yet  in  want.  When  the  fer- 
mentation is  in  part  or  totally  abated,  and  the 
bever  has  a  smell  of  lime,  and  feels  soft  to  the 
touch,  the  vat  is  to  be  covered  and  left  at  rest ; 
and  if  the  flurry  still  remains  on  the  vat  an  hour 
and  a  half,  a  pattern  is  to  be  put  in  which  must  be 
taken  out  one  hour  after,  and  you  are  to  be 
guided  according  to  the  green  ground  it  will 
take.  But  generally  vats  thut  are  thus  cracked, 
are  not  so  soon  brought  to  a  state  fit  for  dying. 

I  shall  make  same  reflections  necessary-  to  at- 
tend a  more  perfect  knowledge  of  diis  process. 
The  woad  vat  must  never  be  re-heated  but 
when  fit  for  working ;  that  is,  she  must  have 
neither  too  much  nor  too  litde  linje,  but  be  in 
such  a  stare  as  only  to  want  heating  to  come 
to  work.  It  is  known  she  has  too  nuich  lime 
(as  has  been  before  observed)  by  the  quick 
smell ;  on  the  contrary,  a  want  is  known  by  the 
sweetish  smell,  and  by  the  scum  which  rises  on 
the  surface  by  raking,  being  of  a  pale  blue  ;  but 
when  this  woad  vat  has  come  to  work  the  same 
process  is  to  be  obserx  ed  as  in  the  preceding, 
dip  and  air  to  give  it  the  blue. 

If  the  cloth  or  wool  was  not  deep  enough  for 
a  mazarhie  blue  bj"^  the  first  dipping,  it  must 
get  another,  by  returning  into  the  vat  the  end 
of  the  piece  of  cloth  which  first  came  out ;  and 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  woad,  you  must 
give  to  this  striking  two  or  three  returns,  as 
may  be  thought  necessary  for  the  intensity  of 
the  blue  n  quired.  If  the  woad  be  good,  such 
as  the  true  L'Auragais  is  commonly,  after  tak- 
ing out  the  first  stirring,  a  second  may  be  put 
in  at  this  first  opening  of  the  vat.  After  mak- 
ing this  opening,  which  is  also  called  the  first 
raking,  the  vat  is  to  be  again  niked,  and  served 
•with  lime  at  discretion,  observing  that  it  has  the 


dVEr*s  companion.  14*3' 

srtiell  and  touch  conformable  to  what  has  been 
laid  down  before,  and  taking  notice,  that  in  pro* 
portion  as  the  dye  diminishes,  so  does  the 
strength  of  the  woad. 

As  has  been,  observed,  the  hitter  end  of  the 
week  the  Hfrht  blues  are  made,  and  on  Monday 
morning  the  bever  or  dye  liquor  is  put  to  boil  as 
befor-  described,  and  a  kettle  of  indigo  put  in. 

When  the  vat  is  filled  within  four  inches  of 
the  brim,  and  mcU  raked,  she  must  be  covered, 
and  two  hours  after  a  pattern  put  in,  which 
must  remain  not  more  than  an  hour  ;  lime  must 
be  added  according  to  the  shade  of  the  green, 
which  thi^  proof  pattern  shall  have  taken,  and 
at  the  expiration  of  an  hour  or  two,  if  the  vat 
has  not  suffered,  the  stuff"  is  to  be  put  in  ;  hav- 
ing conducted  it  between  two  waters  for  about 
half  an  hour  it  is  wrung,  and  a  dip  is  ?gain  given 
to  it,  as  was  done  in  the  new  vat.  This  vat  heat- 
ed again,  is  conducted  in  the  same  manner, 
that  is,  three  r.ikings  are  made  the  first  daj^  ob- 
serving at  each  raking,  whether  she  wants  lime  ; 
for  in  this  case,  the  quantity  judged  necessary 
must  be  given. 

Blue  made  of  woad  alone,  according  to  the 
ophiion  of  some  persons  prejudiced  in  favour  of 
old  customs,  is  much  better  than  that  which 
the  woad  giv^s  witii  the  addition  of  indigo.  But 
then  this  blue  would  be  much  dearer,  because 
woad  gives  much  less  dye  than  indigo,  and 
it  has  been  found  by  repeated  experience,  that 
four  pounds  of  fine  indigo  from  Guatimala,  pro- 
duced as  much  as  a  bale  of  Albigeois  woad  or 
pastel ;  and  five  pounds  as  much  as  a  bale  from 
L'Auragais,  which  generally  weighs  tvo  hun- 
dred and  ten  pounds.  So  the  using  of  the  in- 
digo  wdth  the  woad  is  a  great  saving,  is  one  vat 
with  indigo  shall  dye  as  much  as  three  with- 
out it. 

Indigo  is  generally  put  into  new  vats  after  the 


144  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

woad  yields  its  blue,  and  a  quarter  or  half  after 
she  is  to  be  served  with  lime  ;  as  this  solution 
of  indigo  is  already  impregnated  widi  some  of 
its  dissolution,  the  lime  must  be  given  with  a 
more  sparing  hand  than  where  the  woad  is  used 
alone.  At  the  re- heating,  the  indigo  is  put  in  on 
Saturday  night,  that  it  may  incorporate  with  the 
bever,  and  that  it  may  serve  as  gurnisli  by  its 
lime.  The  indigo  that  is  brought  from  Guatima- 
la  in  America  is  the  best ;  it  i^  brought  over  in 
the  shape  of  small  stones,  and  of  a  deep  blue  ; 
it  must  be  of  a  dtrt^p  violet  ct  tlour  within  and 
when  rubbed  on  the  nail,  have  a  copper  hue  ; 
the  lightest  is  the  best.  It  is  nect- ssury  to  ob- 
serve that  for  the  better  conducting  of  a  woad 
vat,  and  to  prevent  accidents,  a  manufiicturer 
ought  to  have  a  good  woadman,  this  is  the  name 
givt-n  to  the  journeyman  dyer,  whose  principal 
business  is  to  conduct  the  woad  ;  practice  has 
taught  him  more  than  this  treatise  can  furnish. 

Care  must  be  taken  when  a  vat  is  intended  to 
be  re-heuted,  not  to  serve  her  uith  lime  in  the 
evening,  (unless  in  great  want  of  itl  for  if  she 
■was  too  much  served  with  it,  she  might  next 
day  be  too  hitrd,  as  the  dyers  term  it  ;  f(»r  by 
heating  hrr  g  lin,  :>.  greater  action  is  given  to  the 
lime,  and  makes  her  spend  it  the  quicker.  Fresh 
indigo  is  commonly  put  into  the  vat,  each  time 
she  is  re- heated,  in  proportion  to  the  quantity 
to  be  dyed.  It  would  be  needless  to  put  in 
any,  if  there  was  but  little  work  to  do,  or  only 
light  colours  wanted.  It  was  not  permitted  by 
the  ancient  n  gulations  of  France,  to  put  more 
than  six  pounds  of  indigo  to  each  bale  of  woad, 
becruse  the  colour  of  the  indigo  was  thought 
not  lasting,  and  th  X  it  was  only  the  great  quan- 
tity of  vvoad  which  could  secure  and  n  nderit 
good  ;  but  it  is  now  ascertained,  both  by  the 
experiments  of  Monsieur  Dufay,  and  those 
which  I  have  since  made,  that  the  colour  of  in- 


dyer's    GOMPANION.  145^ 

digo,  even  used  alone,  is  full  as  good,  and  re- 
sists as  much  the  action  of  the  air,  sun  and  rain, 
as  that  of  pastel  or  woad. 

When  a  vat  has  been  heated  two  dr  three 
times,  and  a  good  part  has  been  worked  off,  the 
same  liquor  is  often  prei^ervcd,  but  part  of  the 
grounds  are  taken  out,  whicii  is  replaced  by 
new  woad ;  (this  is  called  vamping) ;  the  quanti- 
ty cannot  be  prescribed  on  this  occasion,  for  it 
df^pends  upon  the  M^ork  the  dyer  has  to  do. 
Practice  will  tc:!ch  all  that  can  be  wished  for  on 
this  head.  There  are  dyers  v\  ho  preserve  liquor 
in  their  vats  several  years,  renewing  them  with 
woad  and  indigo  in  proportion  as  they  work 
them  ;  others  empty  the  vat  entirely,  and  change 
the  liquor  when  the  vat  has  been  heated  six  or 
seven  times,  and  that  she  gives  no  more  dye. 
A  series  of  practice  alone  will  show  which  of 
these  is  preferable.  It  is  ho v,  ever  more  rea- 
sonable to  think,  that  by  renewing  it  now  and 
then,  more  lively  and  beautiful  colours  may  be 
obtained,  and  the  best  dyers  follow  this  me* 
thod. 

In  Holland  they  have  vats  which  do  not  re- 
quire to  be  so  often  heated.  Mr-  Van  Robbais 
had  some  of  these  made  some  years  since  for 
their  royal  manufactory  at  Abbeville.  The 
upper  p;irts  of  these  vats,  to  the  height  of  three 
feet,  are  of  copper,  and  the  rest  lead.  They 
are  also  surrounded  with  a  small  brick  wall, 
at  seven  or  eight  inches  from  the  copper ;  in 
this  interval  embers  are  put,  which  keep  up  the 
heat  of  the  vat  a  long  time,  so  that  she  remains 
several  days  together  in  a  condition  to  be  work- 
ed, without  the  trouble  of  heating  her  over 
again.  These  vats  are  much  more  costly  than 
the  others,  but  they  are  very  convenient,  espe- 
cially for  the  dipping  of  very  light  colours ; 
because  the  vat  is  always  fit  to  work,  though 


146  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

she  be  very  weak  ;  this  is  not  the  case  of  the 
others,  which  generally  make  the  colour  a  great 
deal  deeper  than  n  quired,  unless  they  are  set  to 
cool  considerably,  and  then  it  happens  that  the 
colour  is  not  so  good,  nor  has  it  the  same 
brightness.  To  make  these  light  colours  in 
common  vats,  it  is  better  to  work  some  pur- 
posely that  are  strong  with  woad  and  weak  of 
indigo ;  such  give  their  colours  slower,  and 
light  colours  are  made  with  greater  e:  se. 

As  to  the  vats  made  in  the  Dutch  fashion, 
and  which  have  already  been  mentioned,  the 
four  v/hich  Mr.  Van  Robbais  has  in  his  manu- 
factory, are  six  feet  in  depth,  of  which  three 
feet  and  a  half  in  the  upper  part  are  copper,  and 
the  two  feet  and  a  half  of  the  bottom  are  lead. 
The  diameter  at  the  bottom  is  four  feet  and  a 
half,  and  that  at  the  top  five  feet  four  inches. 

To  return  to  the  observations  on  heating  the 
common  vats.  If  the  vat  was  heated  when 
cracked,  that  is,  uhen  she  has  not  quite  lime 
enough,  she  would  turn  in  the  heating  without 
being  perceived,  and  perchance  be  entirely  lost 
as  the  heat  would  soon  finish  the  spending  of 
the  lime,  which  was  in  too  small  a  quantity.  If 
this  is  perceived  in  time,  it  must  be  helped  by 
pouring  it  back  into  the  vat  without  more  heat- 
ing ;  then  feed  her  with  lime,  and  not  heat  her 
till  she  is  come  to  work. 

On  the  re-heating,  some  of  the  grounds  must 
be  put  into  the  copper  with  the  liquor  or  bever ; 
and  great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  boil  it  be- 
cause the  volatile  necessary  in  this  operation 
would  evaporate.  There  are  some  dyers,  who, 
in  heating  their  vats,  do  not  put  the  indigo  im- 
mediately  after  the  liquor  is  poured  from  the 
copper  into  the  vat,  but  wait  some  hours  till  they 
see  her  come  to  work  :  this  they  do  as  a  precau- 
tion, lest  the  vat  should  fail,  and  the  indigo  be 


dyer's  companion.  147 

lost ;  but  by  this  method,  the  indigo  does  not 
so  freely  yield  its  col(Hir,  as  they  are  obliged  to 
work  her  as  soon  as  she  is  fit,  that  she  may  not 
cool,  so  that  the  indigo,  not  being  entirely  dis- 
solved, nor  altogether  incorp(^rated,  has  no  ef- 
fect. It  is  therefore  better  tf)  put  it  into  the  vat 
at  the  same  time  the  liquor  ib  cast  in,  and  rake 
her  well  after.  If  the  vat  is  heated  over  again 
without  her  coming  to  work,  she  must  not  be 
scummed  as  in  the  common  heatings  as  the  indi- 
go would  be  carried  off  thereby,  wht^reas,  when 
she  has  worked,  this  scum  is  formed  of  the 
earthy  part  of  the  indigo  and  woad,  united  with 
a  portion  of  lime. 

When  too  much  lime  is  put  into  a  vat,  you 
must  wait  for  her  till  such  time  as  she  has  spent 
it,  or  it  may  be  accelerated  by  heating  it,  or  by 
putting  in  ingredientb  which  destroy  in  part  the 
action  of  the  lime,  such  as  tartar,  vinegar,  honey, 
bran,  some  mineral  acid,  or  any  matter  that 
will  become  sour  ;  but  all  these  correctors  w  ear 
out  the  dye  of  the  indigc)  and  woad,  so  that  the 
best  method  is,  to  let  it  spend  of  its  own  accord. 
A  vat  is  not  commonly  ft  d  with  lime,  but  on 
the  first,  second)  and  sometimes  the  third  day, 
and  it  is  also  remarked,  not  to  dip  the  violets, 
purples,  or  any  other  wool  or  stuffs  which  have 
previously  a  colour  that  may  be  easily  damaged ; 
the  succeeding  day  after  its  being  fed  with  lin»e, 
as  it  is  then  too  active,  it  dulls  the  first  colour  ; 
the  fifth  or  sixth  day  the  crimsons  njay  be  dipt 
to  give  them  a  violet,  and  tiie  yelloM  s  for  green  ; 
following  this  rule,  the  colours  will  always  be 
bright. 

When  a  vat  has  been  re-heated,  she  must 
come  to  work  before  she  is  served  with  lime  ; 
if  this  was  done  a  little  too  soon,  she  must  be 
cracked  ;  the  same  tiling  would  happen  if  some 
of  the  grounds  were  put  into  the  copper.    The 


148  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

most  effectual  method  in  this  case  is  to  let  her 
rest  before  she  is  worked,  until  she  comes  to, 
which  often  happens  in  two,  three,  or  four 
hours,  and  sometimes  a  day.  By  using  light  or 
weak  lime,  she  grows  too  hard  ;  because  this 
light  lime  remains  in  the  liquor,  and  does  not 
incorporate  with  the  grounds.  This  is  known 
by  the  strong  smell  of  the  liquor,  and  on  the 
contrary  the  grounds  have  a  sweetish  smell, 
whereas  the  smell  ought  to  beequal  in  both.  The 
best  way  then  is,  to  let  it  spend  itself,  by  raking 
her  often,  in  order  to  mix  the  lime  with  the 
grounds,  luitil  tlie  smell  of  the  vat  is  restored, 
and  ;he  flurry  becomes  blue.^ 

A  woad  vat  may  be  set  without  the  addition 
of  itidigo,  but  then  she  yields  but  little  colour, 
and  only  dyes  a  small  quantity  of  wool  or 
stuffs  ;  for  one  pound  of  indigo,  as  has  already 
been  observed,  affords  as  much  dye  as  fifteen  or 
sixteen  pounds  of  woad.  I  set  one  of  this  kind 
to  try  the  qualities  of  woad  by  itself,  and  I  could 
not  find  that  indigo  was  any  way  inferior  to  it, 
either  for  the  beauty  or  solidity  of  the  colour. 
As  lime  is  always  used,  and  sometimes  sour  li- 
quors, in  the  setting  of  a  woad  vat  their  prepara- 
tion are  spoken  of  in  the  preceding. 

Heceifit  \2\.st.     Another  method  for  blue,  as  /iractised 
in  Ameiica. 

To  set  a  vat  of  nine  barrels,~fill  your  vat 
about  half  full  of  boiling  water,  put  two  pounds 
of  potash  dissolved  as  before  described,  then 
add  twelve  quarts  of  wheat  bran  clear  from 
the  kernel,  sprinkle  it  into  the  vat  "ith  your 
ha?id,  then  take  one  pound  of  good  madder,  then 
with  the  rake  mix  it  with  your  dye,  then  add 
two  pounds  of  indigo  well  ground,  wet  with 
nriae,  cover  the  vat  closely  ;  when  you  have  in- 


dyer's  companion.  149 

troduced  all  the  ingredients,  the  indigo  being  the 
last  article,  rake  well  and  cover  close,  if  possible 
to  exclude  the  circulation  of  the  air  ;  let  it  re- 
main eight  or  nine  hours,  then  plunge  and  rake 
well  with  exertion  and  activity  ;  bubbles  \yill 
appear  by  repeating  the  plunges,  and  if  a  thick 
blue  froth  rises  on  the  surface  of  the  dye,  which 
is  called  the  head,  continuing  to  float  and  the 
dye  appears  of  a  darkish  green,  the  dye  is  in  a 
good  state,  and  is  fit  for  colouring  ;  it  may  be 
necessary  to  repeat  the  plunging  and  raking 
three  or  four  times,  remember  after  you  have 
done  raking  to  cover  close ;  keep  the  heat  regu- 
lar. If  the  dye  should  cool  before  it  comes  to 
work  you  would  have  to  reheat,  but  if  you  have 
a  flew  round  your  vat  you  may  keep  up  the 
heat  and  save  trouble  ;  if  the  dye  when  opened 
in  the  morning  appear  of  a  p^le  blue  cast*  instead 
of  a  dark  green,  a  Jiandful  or  two  of  madder,  say 
half  a  pound  must  be  sprinkled  in  the  vat ;  the 
dye  should  continue  the  heat  near  scalding.  If 
the  dye  appear  of  a  pale  colour,  two  qu<:rts  of 
lime  water  must  be  added  ;  be  cautious  not  to 
open  the  vat  often ;  let  it  stand  at  least  two 
hours  between  each  raking.  After  the  vat  is 
set  and  come  to  a  head,  let  it  stand  secure  till 
employed  for  dying  :  when  the  goods  are  ready 
for  colouring,  the  dye  must  be  heated,  and  add 
three  pounds  of  indigo  as  before,togedier  with  the 
same  proportions  of  potash,  madder  and  wheat 
bran,  and  six  pounds  of  woad,  heat  hot,  and  fill 
the  vat  within  four  inches  of  the  top,  cover  close 
and  fallow  the  same  processes  in  plunging  and 
rakiijg  as  before.  If  the  dye  is  in  good  state 
there  v\'ill  be  ten  or  twelve  qu  rts  of  froth  or  head 
fioati;!>?  on  the  s-irface  oi  the  dye,  the  colour  of 
which  ^viil  be  of  a  beautiful  dark  blue  and  the 
dye  of  a  dark  green  :  this  is  tlie  proper  state  of 
the  dye ;  have  your  goods  prepared  in  hot  water 


150  APPENDIK  TO  THE 

with  pearlash,  take  it  up,  let  drean,  open  the  vat, 
take  oft'  the  head  and  follow  the  same  process ; 
(if  cloth,  as  in  receipt  No.  1  ;  if  wool,  as  in  re- 
ceipt No.  120),  the  utensils  are  the  same  in  all 
blue  dying  of  wool  and  woollen  goods,  the  cloth 
when  first  taken  out  of  the  vat  will  exhibit  a 
green  appearance,  by  being  exposed  to  the  air 
will  become  blue,  fold  it  over  till  well  exposed 
to  the  air  and  all  turned  blue  ;  be  cautious  and 
not  expose  any  part  of  the  goods  to  the  air,  to 
take  off  the  green  while  in  the  vat,  it  will  make 
the  goods  uneven ;  give  your  goods  three  or 
four  stirrings  or  dippings,  till  your  colour  suits : 
put  back  the  head,  cover  close  and  rake  well, 
and  let  stand  one  hour,  never  dip  till  the  sedi- 
ment is  well  settled ;  when  the  liquor  is  thick 
and  glutinous  by  use,  it  must  be  boiled,  and 
the  scum  taken  off  and  returned  into  the  vat, 
add  one  gallon  of  lime  water  to  cleanse  the  dye 
and  settle  the  grounds.  In  hot  weather  if  you 
are  not  using  your  dye,  it  must  be  heated  as 
often  as  once  in  sixty  days  and  raked  frequent- 
ly ;  when  all  your  goods  are  dyed  open  the 
vat  and  give  it  the  air  till  cold,  then  cover  to 
keep  out  the  insects,  &c. 

Recei/it  I22d.  Of  setting  and  working  a  -oat  as  tirac- 
tised  at  Parisj  in  France. 

It  is  a  vat  which  is  about  five  feet  in  height, 
two  feet  diameter,  and  becomes  narrow  towards 
the  bottom  ;  she  is  surrounded  with  a  wall  that 
leaves  a  space  round  her,  which  serves  to  hold 
embers.  In  a  vat  of  this  size,  two  pounds  of 
indigo  may  at  least  be  used,  and  five  or  six  for 
the  greatest  proportion.  To  set  a  vat  of  two 
pounds  of  indigo  in  such  a  vessel  that  may  con- 
tain about  twenty  gallons,  about  fifteen  gallons 
Qjf  river  water  are  set  to  boil  in  a  copper  for  the 


dyer's  companioj?.  151 

space  of  half  an  hour,  with  two  pounds  of  pearl- 
ash,  two  ounces  of  madder,  and  a  handful  of 
bran  ;  during  this,  the  indigo  is  prepared  after 
the  following  manner : 

Two  pounds  of  it  are  weighed  out,  and  cast 
into  a  pail  of  cold  water  to  separate  the  earthy 
parts.  The  water  is  afterwards  poured  off  by 
inclination,  and  the  indigo  well  ground  ;  a  little 
warm  water  is  put  into  it,  shaking  it  from  side 
to  side  ;  it  is  poured  by  inclination  into  another 
vessel ;  what  remains  is  still  ground,  and  fresh 
water  put  in  to  carry  off  the  finest  parts,  and 
thus  continued  till  all  the  indigo  is  reduced  into 
a  powder,  fine  enough  to  be  raised  by  the  water^ 
This  is  all  the  preparation  it  undergoes.  I'hen 
the  liquor  which  has  boiled  in  the  copper  with 
the  grounds  is  poured  into  the  high  and  nar- 
row vat,  as  likewise  the  indigo ;  the  whole  is 
then  raked  with  a  small  rake,  the  vat  is  covered, 
and  embers  placed  round  her.  If  this  work 
was  begun  in  the  afternoon,  a  few  embers  are 
added  at  night ;  the  same  is  repeated  the  next 
day  morning  and  night.  The  vat  is  also  lightly 
raked  twice  the  second  day  ;  the  third  day,  the 
embers  are  continued  to  be  put  round,  to  keep 
up  the  heat  of  the  vat ;  she  is  raked  twice  in  the 
day  :  about  this  time,  a  shining  copper-colour- 
ed skin  begins  to  apppear  ort  tlie  surface  of  the 
liquor,  and  appears  as  if  it  was  broken  or  crack- 
ed in  several  places.  The  fourth  day,  by  con- 
tinuing the  fire,  this  skin  or  pelicle  is  more 
formed  and  closer  ;  the  flurry,  which  rises  in 
raking  the  vat,  appears,  and  the  liquor  becomes 
of  a  deep  green. 

When  the  liquor  is  in  this  state,  it  is  a  sign 
that  it  is  time  to  fill  the  vat.  For  this  purpose 
a  fresh  liquor  is  made,  by  putting  into  a  cop- 
per about  twenty  quarts  of  water,  with  one 
pound  of  pearlash,  a  handful  of  bran,  and  half 
an  ounce  of  madder.    This  is  boiled  a  quarter 


152  APPINDIX  TO  THE 

of  an  hour,  and  the  vat  is  served  ^vith  it ;  she 
is  then  ruktd,  and  causes  a  great  quantity  of 
flurry  to  rise,  and  the  vat  conies  to  work  the 
next  day  ;  this  is  known  by  the  quantity  of 
flurry  with  which  she  is  covered  by  ihe  skin  or 
Goppcr-scaly  crust  which  swims  on  the  liquor, 
which,  although  it  appears  of  a  blue-brown,  is 
nevertheless  green  underneath. 

This  vat  was  much  longer  coming  to  its  co- 
lour than  the  others,  becau>^e  the  fire  was  too 
strong  the  second  day,  otherwise  she  would 
have  been  fit  to  work  two  days  sooner.  This 
did  no  other  damage  but  retarded  her,  and  the 
day  she  came  to  work,  we  dipt  in  serges  weigh. 
ing  thirteen  or  fourteen  pounds.  As  this  caus- 
ed her  to  lose  her  strength,  and  the  liquor  be- 
ing diminished  by  the  pieces  of  stuff  that  had 
been  dyed  in  her,  she  was  served  in  the  after, 
noon  with  fresh  liquor,  made  with  one  pound 
of  pearlash,  half  an  ounce  of  madder,  and  a 
handful  of  bran  ;  the  whole  was  boiled  together 
in  a  copper  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ;  the  vat  be- 
ing served  with  it,  she  was  raked,  covered,  and 
a  few  embers  put  round.  She  may  be  preserv- 
ed after  this  manner  several  days»  and  w  hen  she 
is  wanted  to  work,  she  must  be  raked  over 
night,  and  a  little  fire  place  about  her. 

When  there  is  occasion  to  re-heat,  and  add 
indigo  to  this  kind  of  vat,  two-thirds  of  the  li- 
quor (which  then  is  no  more  green,  but  of  a 
blue-brown  and  almost  black)  is  put  into  a  cop- 
per ;  when  it  is  ready  to  boil,  all  the  scum  that 
is  formed  at  the  top  is  taken  off  with  a  sieve  ;  it 
is  afterwards  made  to  boil,  and  two  handfuls  of 
bran,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  madder,  and  two 
pounds  of  pearlash  are  added.  The  fire  is  then 
removed  from  the  cc^pper,  and  a  little  cold  wa- 
ter cast  into  it  to  stop  the  boil ;  after  which  the 
whole  is  put  into  the  vat,  with  one  pound  of 


DVER*S    COMPANION.  153 

powdered  indigo,  diluted  in  a  portion  of  the  li- 
quor as  before  related  ;  after  this  the  vat  is  rak- 
ed, covered,  and  some  fire  put  round  ;  the 
next  day  she  is  fit  to  work. 

When  the  indigo  vat  has  been  re-heated  sever- 
al times,  it  is  necessary  to  empty  her  entirely, 
and  to  set  a  fresh  one,  or  she  will  not  give  a 
lively  dye  ;  when  she  is  too  old  and  stale,  the 
liquor  is  not  of  so  fine  a  green  as  at  first. 

I  put  several  other  vats  to  work  after  the  same 
method,  with  different  quantities  of  indigo,  from 
one  pound  to  six  ;  always  observing  to  augment 
or  diminish  the  other  ingredients  in  proportion, 
but  always  one  pound  of  pearlash  to  each  pound 
of  indigo.  I  have  since  made  other  experiments, 
which  proved  to  me  that  this  proportion  was  not 
absolutely  necessary ;  and  I  make  no  doubt  but 
that  several  other  means  might  be  found  to 
make  the  indigo  come  to  as  perfect  a  colour.  I 
shall,  nevertheless,  proceed  to  some  other  ob- 
servations on  this  vat. 

Of  all  those  I  set  to  work,  after  the  manner 
described,  one  only  failed  me,  and  that  by  neg- 
lecting to  put  fire  round  her  the  second  day. 
She  never  came  to  a  proper  colour  ;  powdered 
arsenic  was  put  in  to  no  effect ;  red-hot  bricks 
were  also  plunged  in  at  different  times  ;  the  li- 
quor turned  of  a  greenish  hue,  but  never  came 
to  the  proper  colour  ;  and  having  attempted  se- 
veral other  means  without  success,  or  without 
being  able  to  find  out  the  cause  of  her  not  suc- 
ceeding, I  caused  the  liquor  to  be  emptied  and 
cast  away. 

All  the  other  accidents  that  have  happened 
me  in  conducting  the  indigo  vat,  have  only 
lengthened  the  operation ;  so  that  this  processf 
may  be  looked  upon  as  very  easy  when  com- 
pared to  that  of  the  woad  vat.  I  have  also  made 
several  experiments  on  both,  in  which  my  chiei 
02 


154  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

view  was  to  shorten  the  time  of  the  cotnTQon 
preparation  ;  but  not  meeting  witli  the  desired 
success,  I  shall  not  relate  them. 

The  liquor  of  the  indigo  vat  is  not  exactly 
like  that  of  the  woad  ;  its  surface  is  of  a  blue- 
brown,  covered  with  coppery  scales,  and  the 
under  part  of  a  beautiful  green.  The  stuff  or 
wool  dyed  in  this  is  green  w  hen  taken  out,  and 
becomes  blue  a  moment  after.  We  have  al-^ 
ready  ^  seen  that  the  same  happens  to  the  stuff 
dyed  in  the  woad  vat ;  but  it  is  remarkable  that 
the  liquor  of  the  last  is  not  green,  and  yet  pro- 
duces on  the  woad  the  same  effect  as  the  other. 
It  must  also  be  observed,  that  if  the  liquor  of  the 
indigo  vat  be  removed  out  of  the  vessel  in  which 
it  Was  contained,  and  if  too  long  exposed  to  the 
air,  it  loses  its  green  and  all  its  quality,  so  that, 
altliough  it  gives  a  blue  colour,  that  colour  is 
not  lasting. 

Receipt  123c?.     The  Cold  Vat  ttiih  Urine. 

A  VAT  is  also  prepared  with  urine,  which 
yields  its  colour  cold,  and  is  worked  cold  :  for 
this  purpose  four  pounds  of  indigo  are  powdered, 
which  is  to  be  dige^.ted  on  warm  ashes  twenty- 
four  hours,  in  four  quarts  of  vinegar  ;  if  it  is  not 
then  well  dissolved,  it  must  be  ground  again 
with  the  liquor,  and  urine  is  to  be  added  little 
by  liitle,  with  half  a  pound  of  madder,  which 
must  be  well  dikited  by  stirring  the  liquor  with 
a  stick  ;^  v.hcn  this  prep,  ration  is  m:»de,  it  is 
poured  into  a  vessel  filled  with  63  gallons  of 
urine  ;  it  matters  not  whether  it  be  fresh  or 
stale  ;  the  whole  is  well  stirred  and  raked  toge- 
ther night  and  morning  for  eight  di-ys,  or  till  the 
vat  appe.irs  green  at  the  surfltce  when  raked,  or 
that  she  makes  flurry  as  the  common  vat  ;  she 
is  then  fit  to  work,  without  more  trouble  than 


dyer's  companion.  155 

previously  rakiniv  hcF  two  or  three  hours  before. 
This  kind  of  vat  is  extremely  convenient,  for 
when  once  set  to  work,  s'lere.nains  goodtill  she  be 
entirely  dravvn,  that  is  till  the  indigo  has  given 
all  its  colour  ;  thus  she  may  be  worked  at  all 
times,  whereas  the  common  vat  must  be  pre- 
pared tlie day  bcfoi*e. 

This  vat  may  at  pleasure  be  made  more  or 
less  considerable  by  augmenting  or  diminishing 
the  ingredients  in  proijortion  to  the  indigo  in- 
tended to  be  made  use  of ;  so  that  to  each  pound 
of  indigo  add  a  qujirt  of  vinegar,  two  ounces  of 
madder,  15  or  18  gallons  of  urine.  This  vjit 
conies  sooner  to  work  in  summer  that  in  winter, 
and  may  be  brouglit  sooner  to  work  by  warm- 
ing some  of  the  liquor  without  boiling,  and  re- 
turning it  into  the  vat ;  this  process  is  so  simple 
that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  fail. 

When  the  indigo  is  quite  spent,  and  gives  no 
more  dye,  the  vat  may  be  charged  again  with- 
out setting  anew  one.  For  this  purpG^pe,  indigo 
must  be  dissolved  in  vinegar,  adding  madder  in 
proportion  uy  the  indigo,  pouring  the  \v  hole  into 
the  vat,  and  raking  her  night  and  morning,  and 
evening  as  at  first,  she  will  be  as  good  as  before; 
however  she  must  not  tx-  ch  ;rged  this  way 
above  four  or  five  times,  for  the  ground  of  the 
madder  and  indigo  would  dull  the  liquor,  and 
in  conseqience  render  the  colour  less  l)right.  I 
did  not  try  this  method,  atid  therefore  do  not 
answer  for  the  success  ;  but  here  follows  ano- 
ther with  urine  which  gives  a  very  lasting  blue, 
and  which  I  prepared. 

Receifit  \2ith.    Hot  Vat  with  Urine, 

A  pound  of  indigo  was  steeped  twenty.four 
hours  in  f  >ur  quarts  of  clear  urine,  and  v/Iien 
the  urine  became  very  blue  it  was  run  through 


1^6  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

a  fine  sieve  into  a  pail,  and  the  indigo  which 
could  not  pass,  and  which  remained  in  the 
sieve,  was  put  with  fore  quarts  of  fresh  urine  ; 
this  was  so  continued  till  all  the  indigo  had 
passed  through  the  sieve  with  the  urine ;  this 
lasted  about  two  hours.  At  four  in  the  after- 
noon three  hogsheads  of  urine  were  put  into 
the  copper,  and  it  was  made  as  hot  as  could  be 
without  boiling.  The  urine  cast  up  a  thick 
scum,  which  was  taken  up  with  a  broom  and 
cast  out  ^f  the  copper.  It  was  thus  scummed 
at  different  times,  till  there  only  remained  a 
white  and  light  scum  ;  the  urine,  by  this  means 
sufficiently  purified  and  ready  to  boil,  was 
poured  into  the  wooden  vat,  and  the  indigo 
prepared  as  above,  put  in  ;  the  vat  was  then 
raked,  the  better  to  mix  the  indigo  with  the 
urine  :  soon  after,  a  liquor  was  put  into  the 
vat,  made  of  two  quarts  of  urine,  a  pound  of 
roach-allum,  and  a  pound  of  red  tartar.  To 
make  this  liquor,  the  all um  and  tartar  were  first 
put  into  the  mortar,  and  reduced  to  a  fine 
powder,  upon  which  the  two  quarts  of  urine 
were  poured,  and  the  whole  rubbed  together, 
till  this  mixture,  which  rose  all  of  a  sudden, 
ceased  to  ferment :  it  was  then  put  into  the  vat, 
which  was  strongly  raked  ;  and  being  covered 
with  its  wooden  cover,  she  was  left  in  that 
state  all  night ;  the  next  morning  the  liquor 
was  of  a  very  green  colour ;  this  was  a  sign  she 
was  come  to  work,  and  that  she  might  have 
been  w^orked  if  thought  proper,  but  nothing  "^s 
d5^ed  in  her  ;  for  all  that  was  done,  was  only, 
properly  speaking,  the  first  preparation  of  the  vat, 
and  the  indigo  vvhich  had  been  put  in  was  only 
intended  to  feed  the  urine,  so  that  to  finish  the 
preparation  the  vat  was  let  to  rest  for  two  days, 
alvvays  covered,  that  she  might  cool  the  slower ; 
than  a  second  pound  of  indigo  was  prepared. 


BYER's    fOMPANlON.  155 

ground  with  purified  urine  as  before.  About 
four  in  the  afternoon  all  the  liquor  of  the  vat 
was  put  into  the  copper;  it  was  heated  as 
much  as  possible  without  boiling ;  some  thick 
scum  formed  on  it  which  was  taken  off,  and  the 
liquor  being  ready  to  boil  was  returned  into  the 
vat.  At  the  same  time  the  ground  indigo  was 
put  in,  with  a  liquor  made  as  above  of  one 
poundofallum,  one  pound  of  tartar,  and  two 
quarts  of  urine,  a  fresh  pound  of  madder  was  al- 
so added  ;  then  the  vat  was  raked,  well  covered, 
and  left  so  the  whole  night.  The  next  morning 
she  was  come  to  work,  the  liquor  being  very 
hot,  and  of  a  very  fine  green,  she  was  worked 
with  wool  in  the  fleece,  of  which  thirty  pounds 
were  put  into  the  vat.  It  was  well  extended  and 
worked  between  the  hands,  that  the  liquor 
might  the  more  easily  soak  into  it ;  then  it  was 
left  at  rest  for  an  hour  or  two,  according  as 
lighter  or  deeper  blues  are  required. 

All  this  time  the  vat  was  well  covered,  that 
it  might  the  better  retain  its  heat,  for  the  hot- 
ter she  is,  the  better  she  dyes,  and  when  cold 
acts  no  more.  When  the  wool  came  to  the 
shade  of  the  blue  required,  it  was  taken  out  of 
the  vat  in  parcels,  about  the  bigness  of  a  man's 
head,  twisted  and  wrung  over  the  liquor  as  they 
were  taken  out,  till  from  green,  as  they  were 
coming  out  of  the  vat,  they  became  blue. 
This  change  from  green  to  blue  is  made  in  three 
or  four  minutes.  These  thirty  pounds  being 
thus  dyed,  and  the  green  taken  off,  the  vat  was 
raked,  and  suffered  to  rest  for  two  hours,  behig 
all  that  time  well  covered  ;  then  thirty  pounds 
more  were  put  in,  which  was  well  extended 
with  the  hands,  the  vat  was  covered,  and  in 
four  or  five  hours  this  w  ool  was  dyed  at  the 
height  or  shade  of  the  first  thirty  pounds  ;  it  was 
then  taken  out  in  heaps,  and  the  green  taken  off 


158  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

as  before'  This  done,  the  vat  had  still  some 
little  heat,  but  no{  sufficient  to  dye  fresh  wool ; 
for  when  she  has  not  a  sufficient  heat  the  colour 
she  gives  would  neither  be  uniform  nor  lasting, 
so  that  it  must  be  re-heated,  and  fresh  indigo 
put  in  as  before.  This  may  be  done  as  often 
as  judged  proper,  for  this  vat  does  not  spoil  by 
age,  provided,  that  whilst  she  is  kept  without 
working,  k  little  air  is  let  into  her. 

Re-heating  of  the  Vat  with  Urine. 

About  four  in  the  afternoon,  the  whole  liq^uor 
of  the  vat  was  put  into  a  copper,  and  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  urine  added  to  this  liquor,  to  make 
up  the  deficiency  that  had  been  lost  by  evapo- 
ration during  the  preceding  work.  This  filling 
commonly  takes  eight  or  nine  pails  of  urine  the 
liquor  was  then  heated  and  scummed  as  before, 
and  when  ready  to  boil,  returned  into  the  vat 
with  a  pound  of  indigo,  and  the  liquor  above 
described,  consisting  of  allum  and  tartar,  of  each 
one  pound,  madder  one  pound,  and  two  quarts 
of  urine.  After  raking  the  vat  well,  and  cover- 
ing her,  she  was  left  at  rest  the  whole  night. 

The  next  day  she  came  to  work,  and  sixty 
pounds  of  wool  were  dyed  in  her  at  twice  as  be- 
fore. It  is  after  this  manner  all  the  re-heatings 
must  be  done  the  evening  before  the  dying,  and 
these  re-heatings  may  extend  to  infinity,  as 
the  vat,  once  set,  serves  a  long  time. 

^  I  must  here  observe,  that  the  greater  the  quan- 
tity of  indigo  put  in  at  once  is,  the  deeper  the 
blue  :  thus  instead  of  one  pound,  four,  five,  or 
six  pounds  may  be  put  in  together ;  nor  is  it 
necessary  to  augment  the  dose  of  allum,  tartar, 
or  madder,  of  which  ingredients  the  liquor  is 

composed  but  if  the  vessel  hold  more  than 
three  hogsheads,  then  tlie  dose  of  these  must  be 


dyer's  companion.  159 

augmented  in  proportion.  The  vat  I  have 
mentioned  held  three,  and  was  too  small  to  dye 
at  one  time  a  sufficient  quantity  of  wool  to  make 
a  piece  of  cloth,  viz.  fifty  or  sixty  pounds  ;  for 
this  i)urpose  it  would  be  necessary  that  the  vat 
should  contain  at  least  six  hogsheads,  and  from 
this  a  double  advantage  would  arise.  1.  All 
the  wool  will  be  dyed  in  three  or  four  hours, 
whereas  dying  it  at  twice,  it  takes  eight  or  ten 
hours.  2.  At  the  end  of  three  hours,  in  which 
time  the  wool  would  be  dyed,  taken  out,  and 
the  green  taken  off,  the  vat  being  yet  very  hot ; 
after  raking  and  letting  her  rest  a  couple  of 
hours  the  same  wool  might  be  returned  into 
her,  which  would  heighten  the  colour  very 
much  ;  for  all  wool  that  has  been  dyed,  aired, 
and  the  green  taken  off,  always  takes  a  finer 
colour  than  new  or  white  wool,  which  might 
remain  twenty  hours  in  the  vat. 

Great  care  must  be  taken  to  air  and  take  off 
the  green  of  the  dyed  parcels  of  wool  that  are 
taken  out  of  the  vat  hastily,  that  the  air  may 
strike  them  equally,  without  which  the  blue 
colour  will  not  be  uniform  throughout  the  wool. 

There  are  manufacturers  who  say  that  cloths, 
whose  wool  has  received  this 'ground  of  blue 
with  urine,  cannot  be  perfectly  scoured  at  the 
fulling  mill,  even  at  twice  ;  others  vouch  the 
contrary,  and  I  am  of  opinion  the  last  speak 
the  truth ;  yet,  if  the  first  are  right,  it  might  be 
suspected  that  the  animal  oil  of  the  urine  be- 
coming resinous  by  drj'^ing  on  the  wool,  or  by 
uniting  with  the  oil  with  which  the  wool  is 
moistened  ;  for  its  other  preparations  more 
strongly  resist  the  fuller's  earth  and  soap,  than 
a  simple  oil  by  expression.  To  remedy  this, 
the  wool  ought  to  be  well  washed  in  a  running 
water  after  it  is  dyed,  twisted,  aired,  the  green 
ta^en  off,  and  cooled.    Be  it  as  it  may,  the 


160  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

woad  vat  will  always  be  preferred  in  the  great 
dye  houses  to  those  kinds  of  indigo  vats  made 
with  urine  or  otherwise ;  and  for  this  reason, 
that  with  a  good  woad  vat,^  and  an  ingenious 
vvoadman,  much  more  work  is  despatched  than 
with  all  the  other  blue  vats. 

I  have  described  the  indigo  vats  in  this  trea- 
tise, not  with  a  design  to  introduce  them  in  the 
large  manufactories,  but  to  procure  easy  means 
to  the  dyers  in  small,  and  small  manufactories, 
to  whom  I  wish  this  wv^rk  rnay  be  of  as  much 
advantage  as  to  the  others. 

Recei/it    \25th.     For  blue  vat^  vfit/i  garden^voad^  or 
fiaatel-ivuad. 

The  garden-M'oad  is  a  plant  cultivated  in 
many  parts  of  Holland  and  France,  and  might 
be  in  America,  to  the  great  advantage  of  the 
husbandman  ;  it  is  made  up  in  bales  generally 
weighing  from  one  huiidred  and  fifty  pounds  to 
twotiundred  ;  it  resembles  little  clods  of  dried 
earth,  interwoven  with  the  fibres  of  plants  ;  it  is 
gathered  at  a  proper  season,  and  laid  up  to  rot, 
and  then  made  into  small  balls  to  dry.  ^  Several 
circumstances  are  to  be  observed  in  this  prepa- 
ration ;  on  this.you  may  see  the  regulations  of 
Mons.  Colbert  on  dyes  ;  the  bi:st  prepared 
Gomes  from  the  diocese  of  Alby  in  France. 

The  Vat  seC  to  work, 

A  copper  as  near  as  possible  to  the  vat  is  fill- 
ed v.ith  water  that  has  stood  for  some  time,  or, 
if  such  water  is  not  at  hand,  a  handful  of  dyer's 
woad  or  hay  is  added  to  the  vvattr,  with  /^ight 
pounds  of  crust  of  f^it  madder.  If  ihe  old  liquor 
from  a  vat  that  has  been  tised  in  dying  from 
madder  can  be  procured,  it  will  save  tiie  madder 
and  produce  a  better  effect. 


DYER^S   COMPAN10N:.  iCi 

The  copper  being  filled,  and  the  fire  li^;hlt*i 
about  three  lathe  morning,  it  must  boil  an  hour 
and  a  quarter,  (some  dyers  boil  it  from  iwo 
hours  and  a  half  to  threej  ;  it  is  then  conveyed 
by  a  spout  into  the  woad  vat,  in  which  has  been 
previously  put  a  peck  of  wheat  bran.  Whilst 
the  boiling  liquor  is  emptying  into  the  vat,  the 
balls  of  woad  must  be  put  one  after  another  into 
the  vat,  that  they  may  be  the  easier  broken, 
raked  and  stirred  ;  this  is  to  be  continued  till  all 
the  hot  liquor  from  the  copper  is  run  into  tiie 
vat,  which,  when  little  more  than  h.ilf  full,  must 
be  covered  uith  cloths  somewhat  larger  dian  its 
circumference,  so  that  it  may  be  covered  as 
close  as  possible,  and  left  in  thi's  state  four 
hours.  Then  it  must  be  aired,  that  is,  uncover- 
ed to  be  raked,  and  fresh  air  let  in  it ;  and  to 
each  bale  of  woad,  a  good  measure  of  ware  flung 
in;  this  is  a  concealed  name  for  lime  that  has 
been  slacked-  This  measure  is  a  kind  of  wood- 
en shovel,  which  serves  to  measure  the  lime 
grossly  ;  it  is  five  inches  broad  and  three  niches 
and  a  half  long,  containing  near  a  good  handful; 
the  lime  being  scattered  in,  and  the  vat  w  ell  rak- 
ed, it  must  be  again  covered,  leaving  a  little 
fipace  of  about  four  fingers,  open,  to  let  in  air. 
Four  hours,  after,  she  must  be  raked,  without 
serving  her  with  lime  ;  the  cover  is  then  put  on, 
leaving,  as  before,  an  opening  f(jr  the  air  ;  in 
this  manner  she  must  be  let  to  stand  for  two  or 
three  hours.  Then  she  may  be  raked  well  again, 
if  she  is  not  yet  come  to  work  ;  that  is,  if  she 
does  not  cast  blue  at  her  surf  ice,  and  that  she 
works  or  ferments  still,  which  may  be  known  by 
raking  and  plunging  with  die  flat  of  the  rake  in 
the  vat ;  being  well  raked,  she  is  to  remain  still 
for  one  hour  and  a  half  more,  carefully  observing 
whether  she  casts  blue-  She  is  then  to  be  serv- 
ed with  water,  and  the  quantity  of  indigo  judg:- 


162  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

ed  necessarj*  is  to  be  put  in  ;  it  is  commonly 
used  in  a  liquid  state,  the  full  of  a  dj^e-house 
kettle  for  each  bale  of  woad  ;  the  vat  being  fill- 
ed within  six  finger-breadths  of  her  brim,  is  to 
be  raked  and  covered  as  before  ;  an  hour  after 
filling  her  with  water,  she  must  be  served  with 
lime,  viz.  two  measures  of  lime  for  each  bale  of 
woad,  giving  more  or  less  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  woad,  and  m  hat  may  be  judged  it 
"will  spend  or  take  of  lime. 

I  hope  the  reader  will  excuse  my  plainness  ; 
this  treatise  being  wrote  for  the  dyer,  I  must 
speak  the  language  he  is  used  to  ;  the  philoso- 
pher will  easily  substitute  proper  terms,  which 
perhaps  the  workman  would  not  understand. 
There  are  kinds  of  woad  readier  prepared  than 
others,  so  that  general  and  precise  rules  cannot 
be  given  on  this  head.  It  must  also  be  remark- 
ed, that  the  lime  is  not  to  be  put  into  the  vat  till 
she  has  been  well  raked. 

The  vat  being  again  covered,  three  hours  af- 
ter a  pattern  must  be  put  in,  and  kept  entirely 
covered  for  an  hour  ;  it  is  then  taken  out  to 
judge  if  she  be  fit  to  work.  If  she  is,  the  pattern 
must  come  out  green,  and  on  being  exposed  a 
minute  to  the  air,  acquire  a  blue  colour.  If  the 
vat  gives  a  good  green  to  the  pattern,  she  must 
be  raked,  served  with  one  or  two  measures  of 
lime,  and  covered. 

Three  hours  after,  she  must  be  raked,  and 
served  with  what  lime  may  be  judged  neces- 
sary ;  she  is  then  to  be  covered,  and  one  hour 
and  a  half  softer,  the  vat  being  pitched  or  settled, 
a  pattern  is  put  in,  whicn  mus'  rem  in  an  hour  to 
see  the  effects  of  the  woad.  If  the  pattern  is  of  a 
fine  green,  and  that  it  turns  to  a  deep  blue  in  the 
ail',  another  must  be  dipt  in  to  be  certain  of  the 
effect  of  the  vat.  If  this  pattern  is  deep  enough 
'■n  colour,  let  the  vat  be  iiiled  up  with  hot  wa- 


dyer's  companion.  165 

tcr,or  ifat  hand,  with  old  liquor  of  madder,  and 
rake  her  well.  Should  the  vat  still  want  lime, 
serve  her  with  such  a  quantity  as  you  may 
judge  sufficient  by  the  smell  and  handling. 
This  done,  she  must  be  ag  lin  covered,  and  one 
hour  after  put  in  your  stuffs,  and  make  your 
overture.  This  is  the  term  used  for  the  first 
working  of  wool  or  stuffs  in  a  new  vat. 

Receijit  126M.     To  set  ajidd  JVoad  Vat. 

I  HAVE  but  little  to  say  on  this  woad  vat, 
different  from  that  which  has  been  related  of  the 
pastel  orgarden  woad.  The  woad  is  a  plantculti- 
vated  in  Normandy,  and  prepared  after  the  same 
manner  the  garden  woad  is  in  Languedoc.  The 
method  of  cultivating  it  may  be  s^:en  in  the 
French  "  General  Instructions  on  Dyes,"  of 
the  28th  of  March,  1671,  from  the  article  259 
to  288,  where  it  treats  of  the  culture  nnd  prepa- 
ration of  the  pastel  and  woad.  Tlie  woad  vat 
is  set  at  work  after  the  same  manner  as  that  of 
pastel ;  all  the  difference  is  that  if  has  less  strength 
and  yields  less  dye.  There  follows  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  woad  vat,  which  I  carried  on  in  small, 
and  in  a  bath  heat,  similar  to  that  of  the  pastel 
in  the  foregoing  chaptt  r. 

I  placed  in  a  copper  a  small  vessel  containing 
fifty  quarts,  and  filled  two-thirds  with  a  liquor 
made  of  river  water,  one  ounce  of  madder,  and 
a  little  weld,  putting  in  at  the  same  time  a  good 
handful  of  wheat  bran  and  five  pounds  of  woad. 
The  vat  was  well  raked  and  covered ;  it  was 
then  five  in  the  evening  ;  it  was  again  raked  at 
seven,  nine,  twelve*  two,  and  four  o'clock  ;  the 
woad  was  then  working,  that  is,  the  vat  was 
slowly  coming  to  work,  as  I  have  already  related 
of  that  of  the  pastel. 

Pretty  large  air  bubbles  formed  themselves^ 


164  APPENDIX  TO  TKH 

but  in  a  small  q\iantity,  and  had  scarcely  any  co». 
lour,  biic  w.ia  iiicj  >;:Tvcd  v/ith  two  ounces  of 
lime  and  raked.  At  five  o'clock  a  prit tern  was 
put  iu  ;  which  was  taken  out  at  six,  raking  her ;. 
this  pattern  began  to  have  some  colour  ;  ano- 
ther was  put  in  at  seven,  at  eigiit  she  \^  as  raked, 
and  the  pattern  came  out  pretty  bright ;  an 
ounce  of  indigo  was  then  put  in  ;  at  nine  another 
pattern,  at  ten  she  was  raked,  and  one  ounce  of 
iime  was  added,  because  slie  began  to  have  a 
sweetish  smell ;  at  eleven  a  pattern,  at  twelve 
she  was  raked  ;  it  was  thus  continued  till  five, 
then  three  ounces  of  indigo  were  put  in,  at  sis. 
a  pattern,  at  seven  she  was  raked.  It  would  then 
have  been  proper  to  have  served  her  with  water, 
as  she  was  at  that  time  perfectly  come  to  work, 
the  pattern  that  was  taken  out  being  very  green, 
and  turning  of  a  bright  b!ue.  But  besides 
that  I  was  fatigued,  having  sat  up  the  whole 
night,  I  chose  rather  to  put  her  back  to  the  next 
day,  to  see  her  effect  by  day-light  ;  and  for  that 
purpose,  I  put  one  ounce  of  lime,  which  kept  her 
up  till  nine  in  the  morning  :  from  time  to  time 
patterns  were  put  in,  tlie  last  that  was  taken  out 
Avas  very  beautiful ;  she  was  served  with  a  li- 
quor composed  of  water,  and  a  small  handful  of 
bran.  She  was  raked  and  patterns  put  in  from 
hour  to  hour  ;  at  five^he  was  come  to  work  ; 
she  was  afterwards  served  with  lime,  and  raked 
to  preserve  her  till  she  was  to  be  re-heated. 

Some  time  after  I  set  another  witli  the  woad 
alone  without  indigo,  that  I  might  be  able  to 
judge  of  the  lasting  of  the  dye  of  the  woad, 
which  upon  trial,  I  found  to  be  as  good  as  the 
pastel  or  garden  woad.  Thus  all  the  superiori- 
ty the  pastel  has  on  the  woad,  is,  that  the  latter 
yields  less  dye  than  the  former. 

The  little  varieties  that  may  be  observed  in 
setting  these  diff'erent  vats  at  work,  prove,  that 
there  are  many  circumstances  in  these  processes 


dyer's  companion.  165 

that  are  not  absolutely  necessary.  It  appears 
to  me,  that  the  only  important  point,  and  that  to 
which  the  greatest  attention  is  to  be  given,  is,  in 
the  conducting  the  fermentation  with  care,  and 
not  to  serve  her  with  lime,  but  when  judged  ne- 
cessary by  the  indications  I  have  laid  down.  As 
to  the  indigo  being  put  in  at  twice,  or  altogether, 
a  little  sooner  or  later,  it  appears  very  indifferent. 
The  same  may  be  said  of  the  weld,  which  I 
made  use  of  twice,  and  suppressed  the  two  other 
times,  and  of  pearlash,  which  I  added  in  a  small 
quantity  in  the  small  pastel  vat,  and  suppressed 
in  the  woad  vat.  In  short,  I  believe,  and  it  ap- 
pears to  me  to  a  demonstration,  that  the  greatest 
regard  is  to  be  had  to  the  proper  distribution  of 
the  lime,  throughout  the  whole  course  of  the 
working  of  the  vats,  either  to  set  them  at  work, 
or  to  re-heat  them.  I  must  also  add,  that  when  a 
woad  vat  is  set  to  work,  she  cannot  be  too  often 
inspected  into  to  know  her  state  ;  for  if  there 
are  some  that  are  backward  (which  is  attributed 
to  the  weakness  of  the  woad)  there  are  also 
others  that  very  quickly  come  to  work.  I  have 
seen  a  middling  one  of  seventy  pounds  of  woad, 
poisoned  ;  because  the  woad  man  neglected  to 
inspect  her  as  often  as  she  required,  and  she  had 
been  two  hours  fit  to  work  before  he  discover- 
ed it ;  the  grounds  were  entirely  come  up  to  the 
surface  of  the  liquor,  and  the  whole  had  a  very 
sour  smell ;  it  was  not  possible  to  bring  her 
back,  and  they  were  oblig^  to  fling  her  away, 
as  she  would  in  a  short  time  have  contracted  a 
foetid  smell.  The  retarding  of  the  action  of  the 
vat  may  also  proceed  from  the  temperature  of 
the  air ;  for  the  vat  cools  a  great  deal  sooner  in 
winter  than  in  summer  :  therefore  it  becomes 
necessary  to  watch  it  attentively,  though  com- 
monly they  are  fourteen  or  fifteen  hours  before 
they  come  to  work. 

P2 


166  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

To  the  dyer. — Blue  and  brown  require  no  prc- 
panition,itissufficienithatthe  wool  bt^  well  scour- 
ed, which  will  be  noticed  in  its  proper  place  ; 
the  wool  is  to  be  wet  as  already  described  for 
blue,  it  suffices  to  dip  it  in  the  vat,  stirring  it 
well,  and  letting  it  remain  in  the  vat  more  or 
less  time,  according  to  the  state  of  the  dye  and 
the  ground  of  the  colour  wanted  ;  many  colours 
require  a  blue  shade  to  be  given  to  the  wool. 
It  is  an  easy  matter  to  dye  wool  blue,  when  the 
vat  is  once  prepared,  but  it  is  not  so  easy  first 
to  prepare  the  vat,  which  is  the  most  difficult 
part  of  the  dyer's  art;  for  this  reason  I  have  given 
the  most  ex  ict  and  extensive  rules  in  my  pow- 
er, in  this  and  the  preceding  work. 

I  have  endeavoured  to  make  my  explanations 
general  on  the  properties  and  effects  of  dye 
stuffs,  and  laid  down  the  different  processes  of 
settip.g  and  managing  the  blue  vat,  both  of  woad 
and  indigo,  for  woollen.  The  receipts  for  cot- 
ton and  linen  dye,  will  be  noticed  under  their 
proper  head,  &c.  It  is  the  earnest  wish  of  the 
author,  if  any  attempt  to  set  a  blue  vat,  from  this 
book,  that  they  attend  strictly  to  the  rules  and 
directioi is  here  laid  down,  and  not  let  it  be  a 
momentary  study  but  search  to  the  bottom  and 
find  out  the  the  principle  actors  in  the  dye,  and 
rule  the  dye,  and  not  let  it  rule  you  ;  upon  this 
principle  you  may  do  yourself  and  country  jus- 
tice. I  shall  leave  tlie  subject  of  the  blue  oa 
woollen  goods,  after  giving  the  process  of 
manufacturing  woad  and  indigo. 

2''/ie  manufacturing  of  Pastel  or  Garden  Woad^  as 
practised  in  France. 

Peasants  of  Abbigevois  distinguish  two  kinds 
of  wo  id  seed  :  the  one  violet  colour,  the  other 
yellow;  they  prefer  the  former^  because  tlic 


uyer's  companion*  167 

woad  that  shoots  from  it  bears  leaves  that  are 
smooth  and  polished,  whereas  tliose  that  spring 
from  the  yellow  are  hairy  ;  this  fills  them  with 
earth  and  dust,  which  makes  the  woad  prepar- 
ed from  them  of  a  worse  quality.  This  woad 
is  called  pastelbourg,  or  bourdaigne. 

'I'he  woad  at  first  shoots  five  or  six  leaves 
out  of  the  ground,  which  stand  upright  whilst 
green ;  they  are  a  foot  long,  and  six  inches 
broad  ;  they  begin  to  ripen  in  June  ;  they  are 
known  to  be  ripe  by  their  falling  down  and 
growing  yellow ;  they  are  then  gathered,  and 
the  ground  cleared  fi-om  weeds,  which  is  care- 
fully repeated  each  crop. 

If  there  has  been  rain,  a  second  crop  is  ob- 
tained in  July ;  rain  or  dry  weather  advances 
or  retards  it  eight  days.  The  third  crop  is  at 
the  latter  end  of  August ;  a  fourth  the  latter 
end  of  September  ;  and  the  fifth  and  last  about 
the  tenth  of  November.  This  last  crop  is  the 
most  considerable,  the  interval  being  longer. 
The  plant  at  this  crop  is  cut  at  the  root  from 
whence  the  leaves  spring.  This  woad  is  not- 
good,  and  the  last  crop  is  forbid  by  the  regu- 
lations; The  woad  is  not  to  be  gathered  in  fog- 
gy or  rainy  weather,  but  in  serene  weather, 
when  the  sun  has  been  out  some  time. 

At  each  crop  the  leaves  are  brought  to  the 
mill  to  be  ground,  and  reduced  to  a  fine  paste ; 
this  is  to  be  done  speedily,  for  the  leaves  when 
left  in  a  heat  ferment,  and  soon  rot  with  an  in- 
tolerable stench.  These  mills  are  like  the  oil 
«r  bark-mills,  that  is,  a  mill  stone  tums  round 
a  perpendicular  pivot  in  a  circular  grove  or 
trough,  pretty  deep,  in  which  the  woad  is 
ground. 

The  leaves  thus  mashed  and  reduced  to  a 
paste,  are  kept  up  in  the  galleries  of  the  mill,  or 
iS^  the  open  air.    After  pressing  the  paste  \^m 


168  APPENDIX    TO   THE 

with  the  hands  and  feet,  it  is  beat  down  and 
made  smooth  with  a  shovel.  This  is  called  the 
wond  piled. 

An  outward  crust  forms,  which  becdmes 
blackish  ;  when  it  cracks,  great  care  must  be 
taken  to  close  it  again.  Little  worms  will  gen- 
erate in  these  crevices  and  spoil  it.  The  pile  is 
opened  in  a  fortnight,  vi^ell  worked  between 
the  hands,  and  the  crust  well  mixed  with  the 
inside  ;  sometimes  this  crust  requires  to  be  beat 
with  a  mallet  to  knead  it  with  the  rest. 

This  paste  is  then  made  into  small  loaves  or 
round  balls,  which  according  to  the  regulations, 
must  weigh  a  pound  and  a  quarter.  These 
balls  are  well  pressed  in  the  making,  and  are 
then  given  to  another,  who  kneads  them  again 
in  a  wooden  dish,  lengthens  them  at  both  ends» 
making  them  oval  and  smooth.  Lastly,  they  are 
given  to  a  third,  who  finishes  them  in  a  lesser 
bowl  dish,  by  pressing  and  perfectly  uniting 
them. 

The  pastel  or  woad  thus  prepared  is  called 
Pastel  en  Cocaigne  ;  whence  arises  the  proverb, 
Pais  da  Cocaigne  ;  which  signfies  a  rich  coun- 
try, because  this  country*  where  the  \A'oad 
grows,  enriched  itself  formerly  by  the  commerce 
of  this  drug. 

These  balls  f  are  spread  on  hurdles,  and  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  in  fine  weather  ;  in  bad  wea- 
ther they  are  put  at  the  top  of  the  mill.  The 
woad  that  has  been  exposed  some  hours  to  the 
sun,  becomes  black  on  the  outside,  whereas 
that  which  has  been  kept  within  doors  is  gen- 

*  L'  Abigeois  llf  Lauragoia 

•f  There  is  a  place  in  India,  the  name  I  do  not  recollect, 
•where  the  anil  is  prepared  after  the  manner  of  the  woad, 
and  the  Fndigo  comes  from  it  in  lumps,  containing  all  the 
useless  parts  of  this  plant.  It  is  very  difficult  to  prepare  a 
#lue  vat  with  iti 


•  TER'S  COJTPANIOiy.  16,9 

^ally  yellowish,  particularly  if  the  weather  haS 
been  rainy.  The  merchants  prefer  the  former ; 
this  makes  little  difiereA^e  as  to  its  use  ;  it  is  in 
general  always  yeliowisn,  as  the  peasants  most- 
ly work  it  in  rainy  weather  when  they  cannot 
attend  their  rural  employments. 

In  summer,  these  balls  are  commonly  dry  ift 
fifteen  or  twenty  days,  whereas  in  autumn  those 
of  the  last  crop  are  long  in  drying. 

The  good  balls  when  broke  are  of  a  violet  co- 
lour within,  and  have  an  agreeable  smell ; 
whereas  those  that  are  of  an  earthy  colour  and 
a  bad  smell  are  not  good  ;  this  proceeds  from 
the  gathering  of  the  woad  during  the  rain,  when 
the  leaves  were  filled  with  earth.  Their  good- 
ness is  also  known  by  their  weight,  being  light 
when  they  have  taken  too  much  air.,  or  rottojl 
by  not  having  been   sufficiently  pressed. 

Poivder  of  Woad. 

Of  these  balls  well  prepared,  the  powder  of 
woad  is  to  be  made ;  for  this  purpose  a  hun- 
dred thousand  at  least  are  required.  A  distant 
barn  or  a  warehouse  must  be  procured,  larger 
or  smaller  according  to  the  quantity  intended  to 
be  made.  It  must  be  paved  with  bricks  and 
lined  with  the  same,  to  the  height  of  four  or  five 
feet ;  the  wails  would  be  better  to  be  of  stone 
to  that  height,  yet  often  the  walls  are  only  coat- 
ed with  earth  ;  this  coat  breaking  ofFand  mix- 
ing with  the  woad  is  a  great  prtjudice  to  it.  In 
this  place  the  balls  are  reduced  to  a  ijross  pow- 
der with  large  wooden  mallets.  This  powder 
is  heaped  up  to  the  height  of  four  feet  reserv- 
ing a  space  to  go  round,  and  is  moistened  with 
water  ;  that  which  is  slimy*  is  best  provided 

*  I  can  see  no  reason  why  slimy  water,  and  yet  to  be  clear, 
is  preferred'    It  appears  to  me  that  clear  river  water  woulj 


170  APPENDIX  ro   THE 

it  be  clear  ;  the  woad  thus  moistened,  ferments, 
heats,  and  emits  a  very  thick  sticking  vapour. 

It  is  stirred  every  day  for  twelve  days,  fling- 
ing it  by  shovels  full  from  one  side  to  the  other, 
and  moistening  it  every  day  during  that  time  r 
after  which  no  more  uater  is  flung  on,  but  onl/ 
stirred  every  second  day;  then  every  third^fourth, 
and  fifth  ;  it  is  then  heaped  up  in  the  middle  of 
the  place,  and  looked  at  from  time  to  time  to  air 
it  in  case  it  should  heat.  This  is  tlie  pastel  or 
garden  woad  pawder  fit  for  sale  to  the  dyers. 

Mr.  Astruc,  to  prove  that  the  sale  of  woad 
formerly  enriched  the  higher  Languedoc,. 
quotes  the  following  passage  from  a  book  enti- 
tled Le.  Marchand. 

"  Formerly  they  transported  from  Toulon  ze 
to  Bordeaux,  by  the  river  Garonne,  each  year 
a  hundred  thousand  bales  of  woad  which  on 
the  spot  are  worth  at  least  fifteen  livers  a  bafe, 
which  amounts  to  1,500,000  livers :  from 
whence  proceeded  the  tibiindance  of  money  and 
riches  of  that  country.'*  Casfel  in  his  Me- 
vioirsde^  /'  Histoire  du  Languedoc^  in  1633,  p. 
49. 

The  comparing  of  these  two  methods  of  pre- 
paring the  woad  and  indigo  may  be  sufficient  to 
a  person  of  understanding,  who  might  be  ap- 
pointed to  try,  by  experiments,  die  possibility 
of  extracting  a  fecula  from  the  isatis  of  Langue- 
doc like  that  of  the  anil.  It  is  neither  die  dyer 
or  manufacturer  that  ought  be  applied  to  for 
that  purpose  ;  both  would  condemn  the  project 
as  a  novelty,  and  it  would  require  many  experi- 
ments, which  in  general  they  are  not  accustom- 
ed to. 

be  more  secure  ;  -with  this  they  would  avoid  the  inconve- 
niences that  must  attend  a  standing  water,  always  filled 
•with  tilth ;  or  of  a  muddy  water,  which  contains  useless 
taith  and  which  must  make  the  dye  uneven. 


dyer's  companion,  174 

I  could  wish  this  experiment  was  tried  in 
great,  so  that  at  least  fifty  pound  of  this  fecuU 
might  be  got,  that  several  vats  might  be  set  in 
case  the  first  should  fail.  Whoever  does  try 
it,  should  be  very  careful  to  describe  all  the 
circumstances  of  the  process.  Perhaps  it  might 
not  succeed  at  the  first  crop  of  the  leaves  of  the 
woad,  because  the  heat  in  June  is  not  sufficient, 
but  probably  he  might  meet  with  success  in 
August. 

If  this  succeeds,  there  are  without  doubt  se- 
veral other  plants  of  the  same  quality  as  the  isa- 
tis,  and  which  yields  a  like  fecula. 

It  is  also  probable  that  the  dark  green  of  seve- 
ral plants  is  composed  of  yellow  and  blue  parts  ; 
if  by  fermentation  the  yellow  could  be  destroy- 
ed the  blue  would  remain.  This  is  not  a  chi- 
merical idea,  and  it  is  easy  to  prove  that  some 
might  be  derived  from  such  an  experiment. 

i^f  making  Indigo  in  America, 


INDIGO  is  the  fecula  of  a  plant  named  nitt 
or  anil ;  to  make  it,  three  vats  are  placed  the  one 
over  the  other,  in  form  of  a  cascade ;  in  the 
first,  called  the  steeper,  the  plant  is  put  in  with 
its  leaves,  bark  and  flowers*,  and  filled  with  wa- 
ter; some  time  after,  the  whole  ferments, 
the  water  grows  intensely  hot,  thickens,  and  be- 
comes of  a  blue  colour  bordering  on  the  violet ; 
the  plant,  according  to  the  opinion  of  some,  de- 
posing all  its  salts,  and  according  to  ethers,  all 
its  substance.  In  this  state,  the  cocks  of  the 
steeper  are  turned,  and  all  the  water  let  out 
stained  with  the  colouring  parts  of  the  plant  into 
the  second,  called  the  beater  ;  because  this  wa- 

*  In  the  village  of  Sargossa,  near  the  town  of  Amadabat, 
the  Indians  only  use  the  leaves  of  the  anil  ;  they  fling  away 
the  rest  of  the  plant.    The  best  indigo  conies  from  thence. 


472  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

ter  is  beat  by  a  mill  or  a  machine  that  has  long 
sticks,  to  condense  the  substance  of  the  indigo, 
and  precipitate  it  to  the  bottom.  By  this  means 
the  water  becomes  clear  and  colourless,  like 
common  water  ;  then  the  cocks  are  turned,  that 
the  water  may  run  off  from  the  surface  of  the 
blue  sediment ;  after  which,  other  cocks  are 
turned  that  are  at  the  bottom  that  all  the  fecula 
may  fall  into  the  third  vat,  called  the  reposer, 
for  it  is  therC'the  indigo  remains  to  dry;  it  is  then 
taken  out  to  be  made  into  cakes,  &.c.  See,  on 
this  subject,  Histotre  des  AjitilleSi  pare  le  Pere 
JLabat. 

At  Pondicherry,  on  the  coast  of  Coromandel, 
there  are  two  kinds  of  indigo,  the  one  a  great 
deal  finer  than  the  other  ;  the  best  is  seldom 
used  but  to  lustre  their  silks,  the  inferior  in  dy- 
ing. They  augment  in  price  accordmg  to  their 
quality  ;  there  is  some  which  cost  from  tfi 
pagodas  the  bar  (which  weighs  48  pounds)  to 
200  pagodas.  The  most  beautiful  is  prepared 
nigh  Agra.  There  is  also  a  very  good  kind  that 
comes  from  Masilupatan  and  Ayanon,  where 
the  East-India  Company  hav^e  a  factory.  At 
Chandernagor  it  is  called  nil  when  it  is  prepared 
and  cut  to  pieces.  The  indigo  of  Java  is  the 
best  of  all ;  it  is  also  the  dearest,  and  consequent- 
ly few  dyers  use  it.  Good  indigo  ought  to  be  so 
light  as  to  float  on  the  water  ;  the  more  it  sinks, 
the  more  it  may  be  suspected  of  being  adulterat- 
ed by  a  mixture  of  earth,  cinders,  or  pounded 
slates.  It  must  be  of  a  deep  blue,  bordering  on 
the  violet,  brillant,  lively,  and  shining ;  it 
must  be  finer  within,  and  appear  of  a  shining  hue. 
Its  goodness  is  tried  by  dissolving  it  in  a  glass 
of  water  ;  if  it  be  unmixed  and  well  prepared,  it 
will  dissolve  entirely  ;  if  sophisticated,  the 
foreign  matter  will  sink  to  the  bottom.  Another 
method  of  trying  it  is  by  burning  ;  good  indigo 


to 


burns  entirely  away,  and  when  adulterated, 
the  mixture  remains  after  the  indigo  is  consum- 
ed. 

Powdered  indigo  is  much  more  subject  to 
adultPrj»tion  than  that  which  is  in  cakes  ;  for  it 
is  a  difficult  matter  that  sand,  powdered  slates, 
&c.  should  unite  so  as  not  to  form  together  in 
difterent  places  layers  of  different  matters  ;  and, 
in  this  case,  by  breaking  the  lump  indigo,  it  is 
easily  discovered. 

You  will  see  by  the  manufacturing  of  the  wo- 
ad  and  indigo,  that  a  portion  of  the  animal  crea- 
tion (reptiles,  and  insects),  live  and  die  in  it ; 
this  creates  an  acidous,  alkaline,  urinous  and 
volatile  substance,  and  is  the  reason  why  the 
vat  requires  to  be  covered  close,  to  prevent  the 
evaporation  of  the  colouring  substances. 


CHAP.  IT.^ 

Receifit  127 t/i.     On  Yellow  Dijing. 

YELLOW  is  one  of  the  five  material  or  pri- 
tnitive  colours,  and  the  subjects  are  many,  of 
which  I  shall  give  a  catalogue.  Yellow  is  gov- 
erned by  the  power  of  the  acid.  I  shall  not  in 
this,  point  out  any  particular  process  f  t  dying 
of  cloth,  as  that  has  been  described  in  my  form- 
er work ;  see  the  receipts  for  yellow,  in  them  it 
was  for  cloth  only,  (the  wool  difttrs  from  cloth,) 
to  use  the  same  proportion  of  preparation  and 
dye  stuff,  for  twelve  pounds  of  wool  you  would 
for  sixteen  pounds  of  cloth.  This  is  to  be  a  gen- 
eral rule  in  all  dying  j  the  process  f.^r  the 
management  of  wool  when  dying,  Ikis  been  de- 
scribed ;  it  is  to  be  put  in  a  net,  and  stirred  with 

Q 


i74  APPENDIX    TO  THE 

poles,  to  keep  the  wool  open,  that  it  may  re- 
ceive the  colour  even,  &c. 

Of  the  live  primary  colours  mentioned  in  the 
introduction,  two  of  them  require  a  pre- 
pjiration  given  by  non-colouring  ingredients, 
which  by  the  acidity  and  fineness  of  their  earth, 
dispose  the  pores  of  the  wool  to  receive  the  co- 
lours :  the  yellow,  the  red,  and  the  colours  de- 
rived from  them,  must  be  so  treated  ;  black 
must  have  a  preparation  peculiar  to  itself. 

Of  drugs  and  woods  for  yellow* — They  are 
the  weld  or  wold,  savory,  green-wood,  the  yel- 
low-wood and  the  finugrick  ;  these  are  those  tol- 
erated by  the  regulations  in  the  good  dye ;  weJd 
gives  the  biightest  dye,  green-wood  and  savory 
are  the  best  for  the  wool  to  be  made  green,  as 
they  incline  and  border  on  the  green,  the  three 
others  give  good  yellows.  The  yellows  are 
classed  in  three,  the  straw,  the  pale,  and  the  41- 
mon  yellows. 

To  the  five  drugs  already  mentioned  for  yel- 
low, may  be  added  a  number  of  the  good  dye  ; 
the  bark  and  root  of  barbary  shrub,  the  bark  of 
the  ash-tree,  the  dock  root,  the  leaves  of  the 
almond,  peach  and  pear-trees,  assmart,  and 
saffron  flowers,  may  all  be  considered  in  the 
good  dye.  Those  belonging  to  the  false  dye,  are 
turmcrick,  which  gives  a  beautiful  yellow  but 
soon  clianges ;  fustic  gives  a  good  colour,but  soon 
turns  brown,  and  is  excellent  in  brown  ;  roucou 
or  racourt,  the  grains  of  Avignon,  and  onion 
leaves  are  much  die  same,  to  which  maybe  add- 
ed many  others ;  in  short  all  leaves,  barks,  and 
roots,  which  by  chewing  shew  some  little  astric- 
tion,  gives  yellows  of  the  good  dye,  more  or 
less  fine  according  to  the  time  they  are  boiled, 
and  in  proportion  to  the  tartar  and  allum  used 
in  the  liquor.  There  is  no  colour  that  produces 
so  great  a  variety  of  coiouring  substances  as 


dyer's  companion.  175 

the  yellow  ;  there  is  such  a  difference  in  the 
qualities  of  these  subjects,  there  can  be  no  regu- 
lar system  adopted,  but  must  be  applied  as  the 
colour  requires.  The  dyer  must  use  his  judg- 
ment for  the  rule  to  direct  his  proportion  for 
the  dying  subjects. 

For  dying  yellow. — The  common  preparing 
water  with  tartar  andallum,  are  used  for  wool 
or  stuffs ;  to  each  pound  of  wool  take  one  ounce 
of  tartar  and  four  ounces  of  allum,  or  to  every 
hundred  weight  of  wool,  twenty-five  pounds  of 
allum  and  six  pounds  of  tartar ;  put  this  into 
your  copper  caldron,  fill  with  fair  water,  heat 
boiling  hot,  then  immerse  the  wool,  stir  with 
poles  to  keep  the  wool  open,  that  it  may  all  re- 
ceive the  preparation  alike  ;  boil  six  Iwurs,  take 
it  up,  let  cool,  place  it  in  a  sack,  covered  close, 
to  lay  twenty-four  hours  that  the  pores  of  the 
wool  may  inhale  the  salts,  and  be  the  better 
prepared  ;  then  rince  well  and  shift  the  liquor 
from  your  copper,  clean  well,  fill  with  clean  fair 
water ;  if  the  waters  are  hard,  or  impregnated 
with  minerals,  to  every  hundred  gallons  of  wa- 
ter, take  four  quarts  of  wheat  bran,  enclose  it 
in  a  clean  linen  bag,  let  it  boil  one  hour,  or  you 
may  add  three  or  four  pails  full  of  sour  water; 
map  off  the  scum  that  rises  by  the  heat.  The 
hard  and  rough  waters  which  are  natural  to 
some  wells  and  places,  by  this  process  may  be 
rendered  soft  and  fit  for  any  colour  ;  the  cleans- 
ing of  the  waters  requires  strict  attention  in  all 
light  and  bright  colours,  as  the  yellow,  the  red, 
&c. ;  when  the  water  is  thus  prepared,  add  of 
your  colouring  substances  be  they  weld,  yellow 
wood,  roots,  leaves  or  plants,  they  all  require 
boiling  ;  add,  boil  and  run,  or  stir,  till  you  ob- 
tain the  colour  required. 

Light  shades  of  yellow  are  obtained  in  the 
same  manner  as  all  others  spoken  of,  only  the 


176  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

preparing  liquor  for  these  light  j^ellows  must  be 
weaker.  I  recommend  twelve  pounds  and  a 
half  of  alliim  for  ench  hundred  pounds  of  wool, 
and  the  tarrar  in  proportion  ;  hut  these  light 
shades  do  not  resist  the  proofs  as  deeper  shades 
do,  made  with  the  full  proportion  of  tartar. 

Some  dyers  endeavouring  to  help  this,  leave 
the  wool  and  stuffs  for  a  longer  time  in  the  dye, 
because  they  take  it  slower  in  proportion  to  the 
weakness  of  the  liquor:  but  if  they  put  at  the 
same  time  in  the  colouring  liquor,  wools  whose 
preparation  shall  have  been  different,  they  shall 
take  at  the  same  time  different  shades.  These 
liquors  more  or  less  strong  are  called  hj-.lf- prepar- 
ing liquors,  or  quarter-preparing  liquors,  and 
they  ake  great  use  of  them  in  light  shades^  of 
wool  dyed  in  the  fleece,  that  is,  before  being 
spun,  and  which  are  intended  for  the  manufac- 
turing of  cloths  and  other  mixed  stuffs  ;  be- 
cause the  more  allum  there  is  in  the  liquor  of  the 
wool,  the  more  it  is  harsh  and  difficult  to  spin, 
and  it  must  spin  thicker,  and  consequently  the 
stuff  is  coarser.  This  observation  is  not  of  great 
consequence  for  spun  wool  which  is  intended  for 
tapestry  or  for  stuffs.  I  only  mention  it  to 
shew  that  tlie  quantity  of  ingredients  may  be 
sometinjes  varied  without  danger. 

To  avoid  the  harsh  and  brittleness  of  the 
wool,  from  the  preparation  that  it  receives  from 
the  earthly  parts  of  these  s^lts;  step  out  of  the 
old  path,  diminish  the  preparation  as  the  shade 
requires,  for  every  hundred  weight  of  wool,  use 
eight  ])0UTids  of  allum  and  three  pounds  of  tar- 
tar; all  yellows  must  undergo  a  preparation, 
and  all  colours  connected  with  them.  These 
rules  for  the  preparation  must  be  general  for  the 
yellow  dye.  To  add  when  your  dye  is  set  and 
boiled  ready  to  rect  ive  xour  wool  or  goods, 
take  half  a  gill  of  the  composition  prepared  for 


dyer's  companion.  177 

scarlet  as  will  be  described  hereafter,  to  every 
hundred  gallons  of  liquor;  this  may  be  added 
or  diminished  to  the  shade  required  ;  it  has  a 
tendency  to  soften  and  enliven  the  body  of  the 
wool  and  make  it  pliable  ;  it  is  better  than  to 
load  the  bodies  of  the  wool  with  these  earthly 
and  astringent  salts,  that  leaves  the  wool  harsh 
and  brittle.  There  can  be  no  objection  to  any 
astringent  in  any  dye  if  properly  applied  ;  it  is 
an  affinity  on  the  wool  to  coat  and  make  a  body 
for  the  reception  of  the  colouring  substances  ; 
the  only  objections,  are  the  earth  these  prepara- 
tory salts  contain. 

I  have  given  you  the  form  of  the  preparation 
for  the  yellow,  and  its  eftects,  I  shall  close  with 
some  observations  on  the  colouring  substances 
for  yellow,  as  to  the  use  and  their  connections 
with  other  colours,  &c. 

OF  tfELD. 

WELDis  aplant  that  maybe  cultivated  among' 
us,  and  is  used  grossly,  cither  green  or  dry ;  but 
when  in  the  blossom  and  not  exposed  to  damage 
by  the  wet,  and  kept  dry,  it  yields  but  little  co- 
lour and  is  numbered  the  first  in  this  dye  ;  to 
withstand  all  trials,  it  requires  six  pounds  when 
dry,  to  every  pound  of  wool  or  stuff',  and  boil 
well. 

The  yellow  wood  is  used  in  chips,  or  in  coarse 
shavings ;  by  this  means  it  is  more  divided,  and 
yields  its  dye  the  better,  and  a  less  quantity  will 
do  ;  which  way  soever  it  is  used,  it  is  put  into  a 
bag,  that  it  may  not  mix  with  the  wool  or  stuffs. 
The  same' precaution  is  necessary  for  the  savory 
and  greenwood,  when  they  are  mixed  with  the 
weld  to  change  its  shade. 

Greenwood  commonly  comes  ground  ;  it 
gives  dL  greenish  yellow  and  is  good  in  greens, 
Q2 


178  Appendix  to  the 

olives  and  dhtbs ;  however,  for  browns  sumac 
will  produce  the  Bi\meeftlct,  and  when  oiie  can* 
net  be  obtiiined  the  other  will  answer. 

Theotlier  ingredieiitsarehitherix)  known  which 
dye  yellow,  and  1  shnll  only  observe  here  in  regard 
to  the  good  dye,  that  the  root  of  the  dock,  tlie 
bark  of  the  ash-trce,  particularly  that  which  is 
failed  after   the  first  sap,  the  leaves  of  almond, 
peach  and  pear-tree,  the  root  and  bark  of  the 
barbary  shrub,  saflron  flowers,  the  herb  peters- 
wort,  and  in  particular  theassmart,  which  gives 
a  beautiful  J  tllow  if  fermented  before  used  in 
dying;    its  colour  will  be    jx-rmanent.     The 
v;road  in  Europe,  is  prepared  by  a  chymical  pro- 
cess, and  produces  a  large  revenue ;  undoubt^ 
edly  the  assmart,  which  in  the  northern  states  is 
troublesome  to  farmers,  might  be  a  profit  to 
them  and  our  country,  ncre  it  suitably  prepar- 
ed for  a  dye  stuff;  "its  extract  is  highly  charged 
with  acid  and  vegetable  salts. 

If  our  government  should  deem  it  worth  their 
attention,  to  employ  some  able  chymist  to  ex- 
plore the  qualities  of  our  fossils,  woods,  barks, 
shrubs,  plants,  roots,  weeds  and  minerals,  per- 
haps  the  advantages  our  rising  nation  might  de- 
rive, would  soon  indemnify  us  for  the  extra 
expense. 

In  short,  all  leaves,  barks  and  roots,  which  by 
chewing  shew  some  little  astriction,  give  yellows 
of  the  good  dye  more  or  less  fine,  according  to 
the  time  they  are  boiled,  and  in  proportion  to  the 
tartar  and  aiium  used  in  the  liquor:  a  proper 
quantity  ofallum  bfings  these  yellows  to  the 
beautiful  yellow  of  the  weld.  If  the  tartar  is  in 
greater  quantity,  tliese  yellow  swill  bf'rder  on  the 
orange  ;  and  lastly,  if  these  ingredients  are  too 
much  boiled,  let  them  be  n  ots,  barks,  or  leaves, 
the  yellow  obscures  itseif,  and  takes  brown 
shades. 


DYfiR's   COMPANION.  170 

Although  some  c^'ersuse  turmeric  in  the  good 
dye,  which  gives  an  orange  jellow,  this  practice 
is  to  be  condemned,  for  it  i^  a  colour  that  soon 
passes  in  the  air,  unless  it  be  secured  by  sea- 
salt,  which  some  dyers  do,  who  take  care  to 
keep  this  imposition  to  themselves.  Tliose  who 
make  use  of  it  in  common  scarlets,  to  spare 
cochineal,  and  to  give  to  their  stuft'a  red  border- 
ing on  the  orange,  are  blameable,  for  the  scarlets 
that  have  been  dyed  after  this  manner  lose  in  a 
short  time  that  bright  orange  ;  as  I  have  already 
said,  they  brown  considerably  in  the  air.  Yet 
these  falsifications  are  obliged  to  be  in  some 
measure  tolerated  ;  for  at  this  time  that  bright 
orange  being  in  fashion,  it  would  be  impossible 
togive  it  to  scarlet,withoutputting  a  larger  dose  of 
composition,  whose  acids  would  greatly  hurt  the 
cloth  The  fustic  wood  is  now  preferred  in 
scarlet. 

OF  TURMERIC. 

THE  turmeric  is  a  root  that  is  brought  from 
the  East  Indies,  which  dyes  a  yellow  ;  with- 
out it  neither  a  good  yellow,  green  or  straw  co- 
lour can  be  imprest  on  silks.  Turmeric  is  a 
small  root ;  if  it  be  govxi,  when  broken  it  will 
be  a  dark  yellow,  have  a  strong  flavour  and  be 
very  bitter  to  the  taste. 

That  which  comes  from  P  ^tna  is  most  valued. 
The  Indian  dyers  call  it  haleli ;  it  is  also  called 
concome  in  the  regulations  of  M.  Colbert.  It  is 
reduced  to  a  very  fine  pou  der,  and  used  pretty 
nearthe  same  way  as  the  grain  of  Avignon,  but  in 
much  less  quantity,  on  account  of  its  yielclitig  a 
great  deal  of  dye.  It  is  somewhat  better  than 
the  other  yellow  ingredients  that  will  Ix;  spoken 
of  in  the  stq'iel,  but,  as  it  is  dear,  it  is  a  suf- 
ficient reason  for  seldom  or  never  usuig  it  in  the 
lesser  dye. 


180  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

It  is  sometimes  used  in  the  great  dye  to  gild 
the  yellows  made  with  weld,  and  to  brighten  and 
orange  the  scarlets;  but  this  practice  is  to  be 
condemned  ;  for  the  air  carries  off  all  the  colour 
of  the  turmeric  in  a  short  time,  so  that  the  gild- 
ed yellows  return  to  their  first  state,  and  the  scar- 
lets brown  considerably  ;  when  this  happens  to 
these  sort  of  colours,  it  may  be  looked  on  as 
certain  that  they  have  been  falsified  with  this  in- 
gredient, which  is  not  lasting. 

OF  FUSTIC. 

FUSTIC  is  much  used  in  this  country.  The 
colour  it  naturally  produces,  is  an  orange  yel- 
low, and  turns  brown  when  long  exposed  to  the 
air.  It  is  employed  in  colouring  saxon  greens 
and  olives ;  in  short,  it  mjy  be  used  in  all  colours 
where  the  ground  requires  a  yellow ;  it  is  a 
clean  wood,  an  astringent,  and  leaves  the  goods 
soft  and  pliable.  There  is  not  one  among  the 
ranks  of  the  yellow  materials  that  is  so  useful 
as  the  fustic  for  browns ;  as  it  changes  it  be- 
comes darker  and  inclining  to  red,  is  useful  in 
smokes,  snuffs  and  cinnamon  colours ;  it  is  good 
in  black,  and  excellent  in  drabs.  It  is  a  close 
and  hard  wood,  hard  to  split  and  full  of  splinters ; 
the  root  and  that  part  of  the  wood  that  is  most 
knotty  is  the  best,  when  split  it  should  appear  of  a 
bright  yellow ;  if  it  is  rotten  or  otherwise  injured 
it  will  not  ans>ver.  Some  condemn  this  wood 
because  it  is  not  good  for  the  yellow,  and  will 
not  tolerate  it  in  the  good  dye  ;  here  are  the  rea- 
sons given  by  Mr.  Haigh,  dyer  of  Leeds  : 

*'  If  a  stuff  dyed  with  fustic  is  dipped  in  the 
woad  vat,  a  disagreeable  olive  ensues,  which 
does  not  resist  the  air,  but  soon  loses  its  colour." 
And  that  "  fustic  was  made  use  of  in  Languedoc 
for  making  of  lobster  colours  for  foreign  markets, 


i>YER's    COMPANION.  181 

ss  it  greatly  saves  cochineal.  For  this  purpose 
they  mix  weld,  fustic,  and  cochineal,  with  a  lit- 
tle cream  of  tartar,  in  the  same  liquor,  and  the 
stuff  boiled  in  this  liquor  comes  out  of  a  lob- 
ster colour,  and  accordingly,  to  the  quantity  of 
these  diff-Ttnt  ingrtdic  nts,  it  becomes  more  or 
less  red,  tending  to  the  orange.  Although  the 
method  of  mixing  together  ingredients  of  the 
good  with  those  of  the  lesser  dye  ought  to  be  con- 
demned, yet  in  this  case,  and  for  this  colour  only, 
ivhich  is  ill  considerable  demand  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean, it  ;ippears  that  the  fustic  may  be  tolerat- 
ed ;  for  having  attempted  to  make  the  same  co- 
lour, with  only  the  ingn  dients  of  the  good  dye, 
I  did  not  get  a  more  lusting  colour. 

**■  The  change  \'.  hich  the  air  produces  in  the 
lobster  colour  made  with  fustic  is  very  sensible, 
but  it  is  not  so  disagreeable  as  the  changes  in- 
cident to  several  other  colours  ;  for  all  the  shade 
goes  oif  and  weakens  at  once,  so  that  it  is  ra- 
ther diminution  than  a  change  of  colour  ;  where- 
as the  lobster  colour  made  with  die  yellow  wood 
becomes  of  a  cherry  colour  '* 

It  appears  Mr.  Haigh's  remarks  are  groundless 
and  without  foundatioti,  he  condemns  it  for  no 
othen  reason  than  because  it  does  not  answer  allhis 
purposes,  yet  gives  it  the  prefenuice  in  the  scarlet 
to  the  turmeric,  and  cannot  well  make  the  flame 
coloured  scarlet  without  one  or  both  of  these 
substitutes,  as  those  of  the  good  dye  give  so  lit- 
tle colour,  that  it  will  consume  the  red  of  the 
cochineal,  &c. 

Yellow  oak  bark  produces  a  strong  colour, 
green  or  dry,  but  it  is  better  to  have  it  roped  and 
ground  as  for  tanning  ;  it  is  also  good  in  browns 
and  blacks.  Walnut  or  hickory  bark  may 
be  used  for  the  same  colours  ;  it  makes  a  bright- 
er yellow  than  the  oak,  both  are  durable.  In  the 
use  of  some  of  these  yellow  subjects-  may  be 


182  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

added  a  little  blue  vitriol  to  the  dye,  it  will  make 
it  very  brilliant  and  fine  ;  oil  of  vitriol  may  also 
be  added,  but  it  will  not  answer  to  make  it 
general,  only  in  cases  of  necessity,  &c. 

OFROUCOlf. 

THE  roucou  or  racourt  is  a  kind  of  dry  paste 
brought  from  America  ;  this  ingredient  gives 
an  orange  colour  pretty  near  the  same  as  the  fus- 
tic, and  the  dye  is  not  more  lasting.  However 
it  is  not  by  the  proof  allum  that  the  quality  of 
the  roucou  is  to  be  judged,  for  this  does  not  in 
the  least  alter  its  colour  ;  on  the  contrary,  it  be- 
comes finer  and  brighter,  but  the  air  carries  it 
off,  and  effaces  it  in  a  short  time  ;  soap  has  the 
same  effect,  and  it  is  by  this  it  must  be  tried  ac- 
cording to  the  instructions  on  these  kind  of 
proofs.  The  place  of  this  ingredient  is  easily 
supplied  in  the  good  dye  by  weld  and  madder 
mixed  together,  but  roucou  is  made  use  of  in  the 
lesser  dye  after  the  following  manner. 

Pearlash  is  dissolved  in  a  copper  with  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  of  water  ;  it  is  well  boiled  for 
one  hour,  that  the  ashes  may  be  totally  dissolv- 
ed  ;  then  as  many  pounds  of  roucou  as  there 
are  of  ashes,  are  added  ;  the  liquor  is  well  raked 
and  suffered  to  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ; 
the  wool  or  stuffs  that  are  to  be  dyed  are  then 
dipped  without  any  preparation,  except  dipping 
them  in  luke-warm  water,  that  the  colour  may 
spread  itself  equally. 

They  are  left  in  this  liquor,  working  them 
continually  until  they  are  come  to  the  desired 
shade,  after  which  they  are  washed  and  dried. 

The  roucou  is  often  mixed  with  other  ingre- 
dients of  the  lesser  dye,  but  I  cannot  give  any 
instructions  on  these  mixtures,  as  they  depend 
on  the  shades  you  wish  to  make,  and  are  in 
tliemselves  attended  with  no  difficulty. 


dyer's  companion.  183 

I  have  boiled  the  stuff  in  allum  and  tartar  be- 
forel  dyed  it  with  roiicou,  but  though  the  colour 
was  more  lasting  it  was  not  sufficiently  so  to  be 
deemed  of  the  good  dye.  On  the  whole,  the 
roucou  is  a  very  bad  ingredient  f<  ir  dying  of 
wool,  and  is  not  made  much  use  of,  for  it  is  dear, 
and  other  ingredients,  that  are  cheaper  and  hold 
better,  are  used  in  its  stead. 

Wool  dyed  with  roucou,  and  afterwards  dipt 
in  the  indigo  or  woad  vat,  take  a  reddish  olive, 
which  in  a  very  short  time  becomes  almost  blue 
in  the  air,  the  colour  given  by  the  roucou  dis- 
appearing. 

Of  the  Grains  of  Avignon. 

THE  grains  of  Avignon  are  but  little  used 
in  dying,  they  give  a  pretty  good  yellow,  but 
not  lasting,  no  more  than  the  green,  produced 
by  dipping  in  the  same  liquor,  a  stuft'that  has  a 
ground  of  blue.  To  work  it,  the  stuff  must  be 
boiled  in  allum  and  tartar  as  for  weld.  Then  a 
fresh  liquor  is  made  with  these  grains,  and  the 
stuffis  dipt,  and  must  lie  in  it  longer  or  shorter, 
according  to  the  shade  that  is  wanted.  There 
is  no  difficulty  in  working  of  it,  so  I  need  only 
observe  that  it  ought  never  to  be  used  but  when 
all  other  ingredients  for  dying  yellow  are  want- 
ing ;  this  must  seldom  happen,  as  they  are  nei- 
ther scarce  nor  dear. 

The  yellows  are  easily  obtained,  more  so  than 
any  other  colour,  but  two  simple  processes  are 
required ;  first,  the  preparation,  then  the  dye 
and  the  colour  required. 

This  is  all  tiiat  remains  for  me  to  say  on  the 
ingredients  for  yellow  for  the  great  or  the  less- 
er dye  ;  the  dye  of  the  lesser  dye  is  to  be  used 
for  common  and  low-priced  stuffs.  It  is  not 
tkat  I  think  it  impossible  to  extract  lasting  co- 


184  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

lours  from  them,  but  then  those  colours  will  not 
strictly  be  the  same  which  these  ingredients 
yield  naturally,  or  by  the  ordinary  methods,  as 
that  gum  and  astriction  which  is  wanting  in 
them  must  be  added,  and  then  they  are  no  more 
of  the  same  quality  ;  consequently  the  rays  of 
light  will  be  diSerendy  reflected,  and  the  colour 
will  be  different* 


CHAP.  III. 

OF  RED. 

RED  is  one  of  the  material  or  primitive  co- 
lours, as  has  been  before  observed,  and  is  de- 
pendent on  the  power  of  the  acid  always  ;  the 
alkali  is  sometimes  admitted  when  the  goods 
have  received  too  much  acid,  and  to  change  the 
red  to  a  crimson.  Crimson  is  considered  by 
some  as  one  of  the  reds,  but  I  consider  it  as 
compounded,  as  you  may  see  in  the  preceding 
work  ;  however  it  is  so  much  connected  with 
the  reds,  I  shall  class  it  with  them  ;  violets,  pur- 
ples and  all  browns  that  the  ground  is  red,  are 
connected  with  the  red,  as  will  be  shown  in  the 
sequel.  Neutral  substances  are  frequenrly  in^ 
troduced  in  the  red  dye,  as  verdigrease,  blue  vi- 
triol, kc.  these  tend  to  sadden  the  goods,  as  the 
alkali,  when  they  have  received  too  much  acid, 
and  are  bordering  on  the  orange  or  yellow,  and 
the  red  wants  raising  in  the  great  dye :  there 
are  four  principal  reds,  which  are  the  basis  of 
the  rest,  these  iire  : 

1.  Scarlet  of  grain.  2.  The  scarlet,  now  in 
use,  or  flame-coloured  scarlet,  forcnerly  called 
Dutch    scarlet.    3.    The  crimson  red.    And, 

4.   The  madder  red. 


jsyer's  coMPANzojr.  185 

There  are  also  the  bastard  scarlet  and  the  has- 
tard  crimson  ;  but  as  these  are  only  mixtures ' 
of  the  prmcipal  reds,  they  ought  not  to  be  con= 
sidered  as  particular  colours. 

The  red,  or  nacaret  of  bourre^^  was  formerly 
permitted  in  the  great  dye. 

All  these  different  reds  have  their  particular 
shadesfrom  the  deepest  to  the  lightest,  but  they 
form  separate  classes,  as  the  shades  of  the  one 
never  fall  into  those  of  the  other. 

The  reds  are  worked  in  a  different  manner 
from  the  blues,  tlie  wool  or  stuffs  not  being  im- 
mediately dipped  in  the  dye,  but  previously 
receiving  a  preparation  which  gives  them  no  co- 
lour, but  prepares  them  to  receive  tliat  of  the 
colouring  ingredient. 

This  is  called  the  water  of  preparation  ;  it  is 
commonly  made  with  acids,suchas  sour  waters, 
allum  and  tartar,  aquafortis,  aqua  regalis,  &c. 
These  preparing  ingredients  are  used  in  dif- 
•  ferent  quantities,  according  to  the  colour  and 
shade  required.  Galls  are  also  often  used,  and 
sometimes  alkaline  salts.  This  I  shall  explain 
in  the  course  of  this  treatise,  when  I  come  to 
the  method  of  working  each  of  these  colours. 

It  has  been  the  opinion  of  some  dyers,  that  the 
Vv-aters  of  America  would  not  answer  fur  a  scar- 
let, and  also  that  a  vessel  of  silver  or  pure  block 
tin  was  necessary  to  contain  the  scarlet  dye;  ex- 
perience has  taught  us  that  these  opinions  are 
groundless,  the  waters  of  this  country  are  as 
pure  and  soft  as  those  of  Europe ;  a  brass  or 
copper  caldron,  if  well  cleansed  will  leave  the 
colour  as  bright  as  any  vessel  u  hatever  :  brass 
is  preferred,  as  it  is  easier  kept  clean,  as  may  be 
seen  in  the  preceding  work  of  the  different  ex- 
periments  in  Europe.    As  scarlets  are  generally 

*This  colour  is  given  with  weld  and  goat's  hair  boiled  in 
potash,  and  is  a  bright  orange  red. 

R 


186  APPENDIX  TO  THfe 

dj'ecl  in  the  clotb,  it  is  necessary  they  should  be 
fuiled  and  finished  fit  f(;r  the  press,  as  soap  will 
crimson  it,  snd  the  hand,  &.c.  would  tarnish  it  in 
dressing. 

Of  Flame-Coloured  Scarlet. 

FLAME-coloiired  scnrlet,  that  is,  bright-co- 
loured scarlet,  known  formerly  under  the  name 
of  Dutch  scarlet,  (the  discovery  of  which  Kun- 
kel  attributes  to  Kuster,  a  German  chymist)  is 
the  finest  and  brightest  colour  of  the  dye.  It 
is  also  the  most  costly,  and  one  of  the  hardest 
to  bring  to  perfection.  It  is  not  easy  to  deter- 
mine the  point  of  perfection,  for  independent  of 
different  tastes  concerning  the  choice  of  co- 
lours, there  are  also  general  fancies*  which  make 
certain  colours  more  in  fashion  at  one  time  than 
another  ;  when  this  happens,  fashionable  co- 
lours become  perfect  ones.  Formerly  scarlets 
■were  chosen  full,  deep,  and  of  a  degree  of 
brightness  which  the  sight  easily  bore.  At  this 
time  they  must  be  on  the  orange,  full  of  fire, 
and  of  a  brightness  which  dazzles  the  eye.  1 
shall  not  decide  which  of  these  two  fashions  de- 
serve the  preference,  but  shall  give  the  method 
of  making  them  both,  and  all  the  shades  which 
hold  a  medium  between  these  extremes. 

Cochineal,  which  yields  ti^is  beautiful  colour, 
and  is  also  called  mestick,  or  te^calle,  is  an  in- 
sect that  is  gathered  in  great  quantities  in  Mexi* 
CO.  The  natives  and  Spaniards,  who  have  but 
small  establishments  there,  cultivate  them,  that 
is,  carefully  gather  them  from  the  plant  on 
which  they  feed  before  the  rainy  season.  They 
kill  and  dry  those  designed  for  sale  and  pre- 
serve the  rest  to  multiply  when  the  bad  season 
is  over-  The  insect  feeds  and  breeds  upon  a 
kind  of  prickly  opuntia,  which  they  call  topal. 


dyer's  companion.  187 

it  may,  be  preserved  in  a  dry  place' for  ages 
without  spoiling. 

The  cochineal  sylvestre,  or  campessianc,  if> 
also  brought  from  Vera- Cruz.  The  Indians  of 
Old  and  New  Mexico  gather  this  kind  m  the 
woods  ;  it  feeds,  grows,  and  generates  there  on 
the  wild  uncultivated  opuntias  ;  it  is  there  ex- 
posed in  the  rainy  season  to  all  the  humidity  of 
the  air,  and  dies  naturally.  This  cochit^.eal  is 
always  smaller  than  the  line  or  cultivated  ;  the 
colour  is  more  holding  and  bt-tter,  but  has  not 
the  same  brightness,  neither  is  it  profitable  to 
use  it,  since  it  requires  four  parts,  and  so;rie- 
times  more,  to  do  what  may  be  done  with  one 
of  fine. 

Sometimes  they  have  damaged  cochineal  at 
Cadiz  ;  this  is  fine  cochineal  that  has  been  wet 
with  salt  water,  occasi^)ned  by  some  ship- 
wreck or  leakage-  These  accidents  consider- 
ably diminish  the  price,  the  sea-salt  saddening 
the  dye.  This  kind  serves  only  to  make  pur- 
ples, and  even  those  are  not  the  best.  How- 
ever a  person  in  1735,  found  the  secret  to  turn 
this  to  almost  as  much  advantage  for  scarlet  as 
the  finest  cochineal.  The  discovery  of  this  f:e- 
cret  is  easy,  but  let  him  that  possesses  it  enjoy- 
it,  I  shall  not  deprive  him  of  the  advantage  he 
might  have  in  it. 

Almost  every  dyer  has  a  particular  receipt 
for  dying  scarlet,  and  each  is  fully  persuaded 
that  his  own  is  preferable  to  all  others  ;  yet  the 
success  depends  on  the  choice  of  the  cochineal, 
of  the  water  used  in  the  dye,  and  on  the  manner 
of  preparing  the  solution  of  tin,  which  die  dyers 
call  composition  of  scarlet. 

As  it  is  this  composition  which  gives  the 
bright  flame  colour  to  the  cochineal  dye,  and 
which  without  this  acid  liquor  would  naturally 
hn  oPa  rrimson  colour,  I  shall  describe  the  pre- 


188  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

paration  that  sucdSj^Mf^est  with  me,  and  thea 
point  out  the  dinHnJt  processes  as  j^ractised  in 
Europe  and  their  success,  and  opinions  in  the 
manner  of  using  the  preparations  and  applying 
the  colouring  substances.  We  are  furnished 
in  the  good  or  great  dye,  with  four  colouring 
suljstances  for  red,  the  kermes,  the  cochineal, 
gum  lacque  and  madder,  there  is  a  numbcF 
in  the  false dve,  as  red-wood  or  brazil,  nicaragua, 
&c. 

Receipt   l2Blh.     For  Scarlet,  as  firacliaed  in  America, 

WHEN  your  cloth  or  goods  are  prepared  for 
dying,  to  every  fourteen  pounds  weight  take 
twelve  ounces  of  cochineal,  ten  ounces  of  creara 
of  tartar,  two  pounds  of  double  aquafortis,  two 
ounces  of  salts  of  sal  ammoniac,  two  ounces  of 
sal  nitre  or  salt  petre,  six  pounds  of  wheat  bran^ 
two  ounces  of  turmeric  and  six  ounces  of  gran- 
iilated  tin. 

Comfiosition  for  Scarlet. 

TAKE  twelve  pounds  of  double  aquafortis, 
io  which  add  gradually  twelve  pounds  of  clear 
clean  water,  put  in  a  large  glass  vessel ;  then  add 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  salts  of  sal  ammo- 
niac made  fine,  put  it  in  gradually,  then  take 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sal  nitre  or  saltpetre, 
pulverized  and  added  slowly,  shake  them  all  to- 
gether till  the  salts  are  all  dissolved,  then  add  two 
pounds  and  a  quarter  of  granulated  tin,  dropping 
it  in  by  little  and  little,  as  it  dissolves  it  will  cause 
a  great  fermentation,  and  you  must  not  be  in  too 
great  haste  in  adding  the  tin ;  when  the  tin  is  all  in 
and  the  ebullition  ceases,  then  stop  it  tight  Vv  ith  a 
glass  or  wax  stopper,  put  it  where  it  may  not  be 
disturbed  or  shaken  up,  for  the  sediment  w  ill 


dyer's  companion.  189 

injure  the  d5'e,  let  stand  for  use;  it  must  be 
prepared  twenty  four  hours  before  using  :  if  you 
keep  it  stopped  close  you  may  keep  this  com- 
position good  several  months ;  this  is  the  com- 
position for  scarlet. 

To  fire  flare  or  granulate  the  Tin. 

TAKE  of  the  purest  block  tin  or  grain  tin, 
that  is  a  metal  by  itself;  it  comes  in  various 
sizes,  from  half  an  ounce  to  one  pound  in 
weight,  it  has  a  bright  appearance.  Take  the  tin 
and  melt  it  over  a  not  fire,  then  hold  it  two  feet 
above  a  pail  of  clean  cold  water,  and  pour  it 
gradually  into  the  water,  then  take  it  out  and 
dry  it  for  use. 

The  cloths  and  composition  all  prepared, 
then  clean  the  copper  clean  as  described  in  the 
preceding  work,  have  all  the  dying  utensils  new 
and  clean,  or  that  have  not  been  used  in  any 
other  dye ;  then  fill  with  fair  water  and  clean, 
and  your  goods  clean  and  wet  with  clean  water ; 
to  fourteen  pound  weight  of  cloth,  take  six 
pounds  of  wheat  bran,  put  it  in  a  clean  linen  bag 
tied  close,  boil  it  two  hours  ;  then  take  up  the 
bag,  let  it  drain,  then  take  twelve  ounces  coch- 
ineal  and  ten  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  have  it 
well  pulverized  together  in  a  glass  or  marble 
mortar  and  glass  pestel,  sifted  through  gauze  ; 
when  thus  prepared,  add  one-third  of  this  com- 
pound of  cochineal,  Sec.  to  the  boiling  liquor, 
run  your  goods  two  hours  boiling,  turning  live- 
ly, then  take  up  and  air ;  this  is  called  the  scar- 
let boiling  ;  then  shift  the  liquor  from  your  cop- 
per, fill  with  clean  water,  and  heat  boiling  hot ; 
then  add  half  of  the  remaining  compound  of 
cochineal,  and  two  pounds  and  four  ounces 
of  the  composition,  Ccrefully  turned  off  that 
you  get  none  of  the  sediment,  for  that  will  in- 
R2 


190  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

jure  the  dye,  boil  well,  run  your  cloth  one  hour 
with  the  dye  boiling,  tend  lively,  air,  and  add 
the  remainder  of  the  cochineal,  &c.  and  as  much 
more  of  the  composition  as  before,  and  two 
ounces  of  turmeric  made  fine,  boil  well  and  run 
as  before.  If  your  dye  stuff  and  composition 
are  good,  your  cloth  and  utensils  clean,  you  will 
have  as  good  a  scarlet  as  was  ever  made  in  Eu- 
rope. I  can  vouch  for  this  form  being  used  with 
success  in  the  United  States,  and  was  equal  to 
any  scarlet  1  ever  saw. 

Receifit  \29th.     Of  Scarlet  of  Grain. 

THIS  colour  is  called  scarlet  of  grain,  because 
it  is  made  with  the  kermes,  which  was  long 
thought  to  be  the  grain  of  the  tree  on  which  it  is 
found.  It  was  formerly  called  French  scarlet, 
imagining  it  to  be  first  found  out  in  France,  and 
is  now  known  bj'  the  name  of  Venetian  scarlet, 
being  much  in  use  there,  and  more  made  than 
in  any  other  place.  The  fashion  passed  from 
thence  into  France  and  other  countries.  It  has 
indeed  less  lustre,  and  is  browner  than  the  scar- 
let now  in  fashion ;  but  it  has  the  advantage  of 
keeping  its  brightness  longer,  and  does  not  spot 
by  mud  or  acid  liquors.  ^ 

The  kermes  is  a  gall  insect,  which  is  bred, 
lives,  and  multiplies  upon  the  ilex  acculeato 
cocci  glaiidiscra,  C-  B.  P.  Some  comes  from 
Narbonne,  but  greater  quantities  from  Alicant 
and  Valentia,  and  the  peasants  of  Languedoc 
yearly  bring  it  to  Montpelier  and  Norbonne. 
The  merchants  who  buy  them  to  send  abroad, 
spread  them  on  cloths,  and  sprinkle  them  with 
vinegar,  in  order  to  kill  the  little  insects  that  are 
within,  which  yield  a  red  powder,  which  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  shell  after  drying,  and  is  then 
passed  through  a  sieve  ;  this  is  done  particular- 
ly in  Spain. 


DYEIl's    COMPANION.  191 

They  then  makeit  up  in  hales,  and  in  the  mid- 
dle of  e.ich  a  quantity  of  this  powder  is  inclos- 
ed in  a  leather  bag,  in  proportion  to  the  whole 
bale.  Thus  each  dyer  has  his  due  proportion  of 
this  powder.  These  bales  are  generally  sent  to 
Marseilles,  from  whence  they  are  exported  to 
the  Levant,  Algiers,  and  Tunis,  where  it  is 
greatly  made  use  of  in  dying. 

The  red  draperies  of  the  figures  in  the  ancient 
tapestry  of  Brussels,  and  other  manufactories  of 
Flanders,  are  dyed  with  this  ingredient  ;  and 
some  that  have  been  wrought  upwards  of  two 
hundred  years,  have  scarcely  lost  any  thing  of 
the  brightness  of  the  colour.  I  shall  now  pro- 
ceed to  give  the  method  of  making  this  scarlet  of 
grain,  which  is  now  seldom  used  but  for  wools 
designed  for  tapestry. 

Prefiaration  of  the  ivoolfor  Scarlet  of  Grain. 

Twenty  pounds  of  wool  and  half  a  bushel  of 
bran  are  put  into  a  copper,  with  a  sufficient 
quantity^  of  water,  and  suffered  to  boil  half  an 
hour,  stirring  it  every  now  and  then  ;  it  is  then 
taken  out  to  drain. 

It  is  necessary  to  observe,  that  whenever  spun 
wool  is  to  be  dyed,  a  stick  is  passed  through 
each  hank  (which  commonly  weighs  one  pound) 
and  they  remain  on  the  stick  during  the  course 
of  the  work  to  prevent  their  entanghng.  This 
stick  also  enables  the  dyer  to  return  the  hanks 
"vvith  niore  ease,  by  plunging  each  part  succes- 
sively in  the  hcjuor,  by  which  they  take  an  equal 
dye  ;  by  raising  the  hank  with  a  stick,  and 
drawing  it  half  way  out  of  the  copper,  seizing 
the  other  end  of  the  hank  with  the  other  hand,  it 
is  plunged  towards  the  bottom.  If  the  wool  be 
too  hot,  this  may  ht  done  with  two  sticks,  and 
the  oftener  ,this  is  repeated,  the  more  even  will 


192  APPENDIX  TO  T^E 

be  the  dye  ;  •  the  ends  of  the  sticks  are  then  plac- 
ed on  two  poles  to  drain.  These  poles  are  fix- 
ed in  the  wall  above  the  copper. 

Liquor  for  the  Kermes. 

WHILE  this  prepared  wool  is  draining,  the 
copper  is  emptied,  and  fresh  water  put  in,  to 
which  is  added  about  a  fifth  of  sour  water,  four 
pounds  of  Roman  allum  grossly  powdered,  and 
two  pounds  of  red  tartar.  The  whole  is  brought 
to  boil,  and  that  instant  the  hanks  are  dipped  in 
(on  the  sticks)  which  are  to  remain  in  lor  two 
hours,  stirring  them  continually  one  after  the 
otlier  after  the  method  already  laid  down. 

I  must  in  this  place  observe,  that  the  liquor  in 
which  the  allum  is  put,  when  on  the  point  of 
boiling  sometimes  rises  so  suddenly  that  it 
comes  over  the  copper,  if  not  prevented  by  add- 
ing cold  water.  If,  when  it  is  rising,  the  spun 
wool  is  instantly  put  in,  it  stops  it,  and  produces 
the  same  tffcrcts  as  cold  water. 

The  liquor  does  not  rise  so  suddenly  when 
there  is  a  large  quantity'  of  tartar,  as  in  the  pro- 
cess ;  but  when  the  alhmi  ib  used  alone,  some- 
times above  half  the  liquor  comes  over  the  cop- 
per when  it  begins  to  boil,  if  not  prevented  by 
the  method  described. 

When  tlie  wool  has  boiled  two  hours  in  this 
liquor,  it  is  taken  out,  left  to  drain,  gently 
squeezed,  and  put  into  a  linen  bag  in  a  cool 
place  for  five  or  six  days,  and  sometime^ longer ; 
this  is  cdlled  leaving  the  wool  in  preparation. 
This  is  to  make  it  penetrate  the  better,  and  helps 
to  augment  the  action  of  the  salts,  for  as  a  part  of 
thr  iiquor  always  fli.s  off,  it  is  evident  that  the 
rem.-ining,  beincr  fuller  of  saline  particles,  be- 
cf^-'^'  s  more  active,  provided  there  remained  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  humidity  ;  for  the  salts 


DTER^S    COMPANION.  193 

<bcing  crj'stalized  and  dry,  would  have  no  more 
action. 

1  have  dwelled  much  longer  on  this  preparing 
liquor,  and  the  method  of  making  it,  than  1  shall 
in  the  sequel,  as  there  are  a  grei'.t  number  of  co- 
lours for  which  it  is  prepared  pretty  near  in  the 
same  proportion,  so  that  when  this  happens,  I 
shall  slightly  describe  it,  mentioning  only  the 
changes  that  are  to  be  made  in  the  quantity  of 
alluni,  tartar,  sour  water,  or  other  ingredients. 

After  the  spun  wool  has  been  covered  five 
or  six  days,  it  is  fitted  to  receive  the  dye.  A 
fresh  liquor  is  then  prepared  according  to  the 
quantity  of  wool  to  be  dyed,  and  when  it  begins 
to  be  lukewarm,  take  12  ounces  of  powdered 
kermes  for  each  pound  of  wool  to  be  dyed,  if  a 
full  and  well-colourcd  scarlet  is  wanted.  If  the 
kermes  w'as  old  and  flat,  a  pound  of  it  would 
be  required  to  each  pound  of  wool-  When  the 
liquor  beginsto  boil,  the  yarn  (still  moist,  which 
it  will  be  if  it  has  been  well  wrapped  in  the 
bag,  and  kept  in  a  cool  place)  is  put  in.  If  it 
had  been  boiled  a  long  time  before,  and  grown 
dry,  it  must  be  lightly  passed  through  lukewarm 
water,  and  well  squeezed  before  it  is  dyed. 

Previous  to  its  being  dipped  in  the  copijer 
with  the  kermes,  a  handful  of  wool  is  cast  in, 
which  is  let  to  boil  for  a  minute  :  this  takes  up 
a  kind  of  black  scum,  which  the  kermes  cast 
up,  by  which  the  wool  that  is  afterwards  dip- 
ped acquires  a  finer  colour.  This  handful  of 
wool  being  taken  out,  the  prepared  is  to  be  put 
in.  The  hanks  are  passed  on  sticks  as  in  the 
preparation,  continually  stirring,  and  airing 
them  one  after  the  other.  It  m'.ist  boil  after 
this  manner  an  hour  at  least,  then  taken  out  and 
placed  on  the  poles  to  drain,  afterwards  wrung 
and  washed. 

The  dye  still  remaining  in  the  liquor,  may  serve 


194  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

to  dip  a  little  fresh  parcel  of  prepared  wool ;  if; 
will  take  some  colour  in  proportion  to  the  good- 
ness and  quality  of  the  kermes  put  into  the  cop- 
per. 

When  different  shades  are  wanted,  a  less 
quantity  of  kermes  is  used,  so  that  for  twenty 
pounds  of  prepared  wool  seven  or  eight  are  suf- 
ficient. 

The  quantity  of  wool  that  is  to  have  the 
lightest  shadcAis  first  to  be  dipped,  and  to  re- 
main no  longer  in  than  the  time  sufficient  to 
turn  it  and  make  it  take  the  dye  equally.  Thea 
the  next  deej^est  shade  intended  is  dipped,  and 
left  to  remain  some  time  longer  ;  after  this, 
manner  the  work  is  continued  to  the  last,  which 
is  left  as  long  as  requisite  to  acquire  the  neces- 
sary shade. 

The  reason  of  working  the  lightest  shades 
first,  is,  that  if  jhe  yarn  is  left  too  long  in,  no 
damage  is  done,  as  that  hank  may  serve  for  a 
deeper  shnde ;  whereas,  if  they  begin  by  a 
deeper,  there  ivould  be  no  remedy  if  a  failure 
happened  in  some  of  the  lighter  shades.  The 
same  caution  is  to  be  taken  in  all  colours  whose 
shades  are  to  be  different. 

There  are  seldom  more  shades  than  one  from 
the  colour  now  spoken  of;  but  as  the  working 
part  is  the  same  lor  all  colours,  what  has  been 
said  on  this  subject  will  serve  for  the  rest. 
^  The  yarn  thus  dyed,  before  bringing  it  to  the 
river,  may  be  passed  through  lukewarm  water, 
in  which  a  small  quantity  of  soap  has  been  per* 
fectly  dissolved  :  this  gives  a  brightness  to  the 
colour,  but  at  the  same  time  saddens  it  a  little, 
that  is,  gives  it  a  little  cast  of  the  crimson.  As 
I  shall  often  make  use  of  the  terms  rotizing 
and  saddening,  especially  in  the  acids,  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  explain  their  meaning.  '.'--. 

Saddening,  is  giving  a  crimson  or  violel  cast 
to  red;  soap  and  alkaline  salts,  such  as  lie  ol" 


dyer's  companion.  195 

.sIks,  potash,  lime,  sadden  reds ;  thus  they 
:,erve  to  bring  them  to  the  shade  required  when 
too  bright,  and  that  they  are  too  much  rouzed. 

Rouzitig,  is  doing  quite  the  reverse  ;  it  is  giv- 
ing a  fire  to  the  red,  by  inaking  it  border  on  the 
yellow  or  orange.  This  is  performed  on  wool  by 
the  means  of  acids,  as  red  or  white  tartar,  cream 
of  tartar,  vinegar,  lemon  juice,  and  aquafortis. 
These  acids  are  added  more  or  less,  accordu)g  to 
■\\c  depth  of  the  orange  colour  required.  For 
example,  if  the  scarlet  of  grain  was  wanted  to  be 
more  bright,  and  anproach  somewhat  nearer  to 
common  scarlet,  a  little  f>f  the  scarlet  composi- 
tion, which  has  been  spoken  of.  must  be  pour- 
ed into  the  liquor  after  the  kermes  is  put  in, 
and  the  brown  colour  of  that  liquor  would  im- 
mediately be  briglitened  by  the  acid,  and  be- 
come of  a  brighter  red  ;  the  wool  dipp^  d  in 
would  l3e  more  liable  to  be  spotted  l)y  mud  and 
acid  liquors :  the  reason  will  appear  in  the  next 
chapter. 

I  have  made  various  experiments  on  this  co- 
lour, in  order  to  make  it  fitter  and  brighter  than 
what  it  generally  is,  but  I  never  could  extract 
a  red  that  was  to  be  compared  to  that  of  cochi- 
neal. 

Of  all  the  liquors  which  I  made  for  the  pre- 
paration of  the  wool,  that  which  was  made  with 
tlie  preparations  just  mentioned  succeeded  best. 
Bv  changing  the  natural  dye  of  the  kermes,  by 
difterent  kinds  of  ingredients  of  rhetallic  solu- 
tions, &c.  various  colours  are  made,  which  I 
shall  immediately  speak  of. 

I  shall  say  but  little  about  dying  stuffs  with  this 
red,  as  the  proportion  cannot  be  prescribed 
for  each  yard  of  stuff,  on  account  of  their 
breadth  and  thickness,  or  the  quantitj'^  of  wool 
enterift^their  composition  ;  practice  alone  will 
<each  •^e  necessary  quantity  for  each  §ort  of 


i96  APPENDIX  TO  THL 

stuff;  however,  not  to  work  in  the  dark,  or  tu 
try  experiments  at  random,  the  surest  way  will 
be  to  ^veigh  the  stuffs,  and  to  diminish  about 
one-fourth  part  of  the  colouring  ingredients  laid 
down  for  spun  wool,  as  stuffs  take  up  less  co- 
lour inwardly,  their  texture  being  more  com- 
pact, prevents  its  penetration,  whereas  yarn  or 
wool  in  the  fleece  receives  it  equally  within  and 
without. 

The  alUim  and  tartar  for  the  liquor  of  prepa- 
ration for  the  stuffs  must  be  diminished  in  the 
same  proportion,  and  thej^  are  not  to  remain  in 
the  preparing  liquor  as  long  as  the  wool.  It 
may  be  dyed  the  next  day  after  boiling. 

If  wool  in  the  fleece  is  dyed  with  the  red  of  the 
kcrmes,  either  to  incorporate  it  with  cloths  of  a 
mixed  colour,  or  to  make  full  cloths,  it  v^  ill  have 
a  much  finer  effect  than  if  the  wool  had  been 
dyed  in  the  red  of  madder.  I  shall  mention  this  in 
describing  the  compound  colours  in  which  the 
kermes  is  used,  or  ought  at  least  be  used  in 
preference  to  madder,  which  does  not  give  so 
fine  a  red,  but,  being  cheaper,  iscommonly  sub- 
stituted for  it. 

Half  grain  scarlet,  or  bastard  scarlet,  is  that 
which  is  made  of  equal  parts  of  kermes  and 
madder.  This  mixture  affords  a  very  holding 
colour,  not  bright,  but  inclining  to  a  blood  red. 
It  is  prepared  and  worked  in  the  same  manner 
as  that  made  of  kermes  alone*  This  dye  is 
much  chea]>er  and  the  dyers  commonh'  make  it 
less  perfect  by  diminishing  the  kermes  and  aug- 
menting the  madder. 

By  the  proofs  that  have  been  made  of  scarlet  of 
grain  or  kermes,  whether  by  exposing  it  to  the 
sun,  or  by  different  proofs,  it  is  certain  there  is 
not  a  more  holding  or  a  better  colour  ;  yet  the 
kermes  is  no  where  in  use  but  at  A'^enice.  The 
mode  of  this  colour  has  been  entirely  out  since 


dyer's  companion.  1$7 

the  making  of  flame-coloured  scarlets.  This 
scarlet  of  grain  is  ncv  called  a  colour  of  bul- 
lock's blood  :  nevertheless,  it  has  great  advan- 
tages over  the  other,  for  it  neither  blackens  nor 
spots,  and  grease  may  be  taken  out  without  pre- 
judice to  its  colour  ;  but  it  is  out  of  fashion  and 
that  is  sufficient.  This  has  entirely  put  a  stop 
to  the  consumption  of  kennes  in  France.  Scarce 
a  djer  knows  it,  and  when  Monsieur  Colbert 
wanted  a  certain  quantity  for  the  experiments 
above  related,  he  was  obliged  to  send  for  it  to 
Languedoc,  the  merchants  of  Paris  keeping  only 
a  sufficiency  for  medicinal  purposes. 

When  a  dyer  is  obliged  to  dye  &  piece  of 
cloth,  known  yet  under  the  name  of  scarlet  of 
grain,  as  he  has  neither  the  knowledge  of  the 
kermes,  nor  the  custom  of  u^ing  it,  he  makes  it 
of  a  cochineal,  as  I  shall  relate  in  the  following 
receipt ;  it  comes  dearer,  and  is  less  holding 
than  that  made  of  the  kermes.  The  same  is 
done  in  regard  to  spun  \vof)l  designed  for  tapes- 
tries, and  as  this  shade  is  pretty  difficult  to  hit 
with  cochineal,  they  commonly  mix  brazil 
wood,  whicli  hitherto  has  been  a  false  ingredient, 
permitted  only  in  the  lesser  dye.  For  this  rea- 
son all  these  kind  of  reds  fade  in  a  \'ery  short 
time,  and  though  they  are  much  brighter  than  re- 
quired, coming  out  of  the  hands  of  the  workman, 
they  lose  all  their  brightness  before  the  expira- 
tion-of  a  year  :  they  whiten  or  become  exceed- 
ing grey  ;  it  is  therefore  to  be  wished  that  the 
use  of  kermes  was  again  established. 

It  is  also  certain,  that  if  some  dyer  set  about 
using  it,  tiiere  are  several  colours  that  might  be 
extracted  from  it  with  moreease  and  less  ex  pence 
than  the  common  method ;  for  these  colours 
would  be  better  and  more  holding,  and  he  would 
thereby  acquire  a  greater  reputation.     I  !-ave 


198  APPENDIX    TO  THE 

from  wliich  some  use  in  practice  may  arise  ;  I 
shall  only  relate  such  as  have  produced  the  most 
singular  colours. 

By  mixing  the  kermes  with  cream  of  tartar, 
without  allum,  and  as  much  of  the  composition 
as  would  be  used  for  the  making  of  scarlet  with 
cochineal,  you  have  in  one  liquor  an  exceeding 
Ijright  cinnamon,  for  nothing  but  the  acid  enter- 
ing in  the  mixture,  the  red  parts  of  the  kermes 
become  so  minute  that  they  almost  escape  the 
sight.  But  if  this  cinnamon  colour  be  passed 
through  a  liquor  of  Roman  allum,  part  of  this 
red  appears  again  ;  whether  it  be  by  the  ad- 
dition of  the  allum  that  drives  out  a  part  of  the 
acid  of  the  composition,  or  the  earth  of  the  allum 
precipitated  by  the  astriction  of  the  kermes, 
which  has  the  effect  of  galls,  I  know  not ;  but 
this  red  thus  restored  is  not  fine. 

With  cream  of  tartar  (the  composition  for 
scarlet)  and  allum,  in  greater  quantity  than  tar- 
tar,  the  kermes  gives  a  lilac  colour,  which  varies 
according  as  the  proportion  of  ingredients  are 
chawged. 

If  in  the  place  of  allum  and  tartar,  ready  pre- 
pared  tartar  of  vitriol  is  substituted,  wliich  is  a 
very  hard  salt  resulting  from  the  mixture  of  the 
vitriolic  acid  and  a  fixed  alkali,  such  as  ihe  oil 
of  tartar  potash,  &.c  and  if,  I  say,  after  boiling 
the  kermes  in  a  solution  of  a  small  quantity  of 
this  salt,  the  stuff  be  dipped  in  and  boiled  one 
hour,  it  acquires  a  tolerable  handsome  agath 
grey,  and  in  which  very  little  red  is  seen,  for  the 
acid  of  the  coiTiposition  having  too  much  divid- 
ed the  red  of  tlie  kermes,  and  the  tartar  of  vi- 
triol, not  containmg  the  earth  of  the  allum,,  it 
could  notre-uniie  these  red  iUoms,  dispersed  by 
precipitation.  These  agath  grtys  are  of  the 
good  dye,  for,  as  I  have  observed  in  the  chapter 
treaiiugcf  indigo,  the  tartar  of  vitriol  is  a  hiird 


dyer's  companion.  199 

salt,  which  is  not  calcined  by  the  sun,  and  is  in- 
dissoluble in  rain  water. 

Glauber  salts  mixed  with  the  kermes  entirely 
destroy  its  red,  and  give  an  earthy  grey  that 
does  not  stand  the  proof,  for  this  salt  neither  re- 
sists  cold  water  nor  the  rays  of  the  sun,  which 
reduce  it  into  powder.  Vitriol  or  green  cop- 
peras, and  blue  vitriol  separated  substituted  for 
allum,  but  joined  to  the  crystal  of  tartar,  equal- 
ly destroy  or  veil  the  red  of  the  kermes,  which 
in  these  two  experiments  produce  the  same  ef- 
fect as  if  galls  or  sumac  had  been  made  use  of; 
for  it  precipitates  the  iron  of  the  green  vltdol,  and 
dyes  the  cloth  of  a  grey  brown,  and  the  copper 
of  the  blue  vitriol  dyes  it  of  an  olive; 

Instead  of  blue  vitriol,  I  used  a  solution  of 
copper*  in  aquafortis,  which  also  produced  an 
olive  colou'* :  a  convincing  proof  that  the  ker- 
mes has  tlie  precipitating  quality  of  the  galls, 
since  it  precipitates- the  copper  of  the  vitriol  as  a 
decoction  of  gall-nut  would. 

There  is  grear  probability  that  what  renders 
the  red  of  the  kermes  as  holding  as  that  of  m:id- 
der,  is  from  the  insects  feeding  on  an  astringent 
shrub,  which,  notwithstanding  the  changes  made 
by  the  digestion  of  the  juices  of  the  plant,  still 
retains  the  astringent  qudity  of  tlic  vegetable, 
and  cons'^'ciuently  the  virtue,  and  so  gives  a 
greater  spring  to  the  pons  of  the  wool  to  con- 
tract themselves  q  licker  and  with  greater 
strength,  when  it  comes  out  of  the  boiling  wa- 
ter, and  is  exposed  to  the  cold  air  ;  f  )r  I  have 
observed  that  all  b;trks,  roots,  wood,  fruits,  imd 
other  matters  that  have  some  astriction,  yield  co- 
lours of  the  good  dye. 


♦  Verdigrease, 


200  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

Receifit  \ZOth.  Flame  coloured  scarlet,  as  firactisedat  ' 
■Leeds  aiid  in  France. 

Compositwnfor  Scarlet. — Take  eight  ounces 
of  spirit  of  nitre,  (which  is  always  purer  than 
the  common  acf«icifortis  mostly  used  by  the  dy. 
crs)  and*  be  certain  that  it  contains  no  vitriolic 
acid  ;  weaken  this  nitrous  acid  by  putting  it  in- 
to  eight  ounces  of  filtered  river  water  :  dissolve 
in  it,  little  by  little,  half  an  ounce  of  very 
white  salt  ammoniac,  to  make  it  an  aqua  regia, 
because  spirits  of  nitre  alone  will  not  dissolve 
block-tin.  Lastly,  add  two  drachms  of  salt 
petre_;  this  might  be  omitted,  but  I  observed 
that  it  was  of  use  in  making  the  dye  smooth 
and  equal-  In  this  aqua  regia  thus  weakened, 
dissolve  one  ounce  of  the  best  block-tin,  which 
is  first  granulated  or  made  small  while  melted 
by  casting  it  from  a  height  into  a  vessel  of  cold 
water.  These  small  grains  of  tin  arc  put  into 
the  dissolvent  one  by  one,  letting  the  'first  dis- 
solve before  putting  in  others  ;  this  prevents  the 
loss  of  the  red  vapours,  which  would  rise  in 
great  abundance,  and  be  lost  if  the  dissolution 
of  the  metal  was  made  too  hastily  ;  it  is  neces- 
sary to  preserve  these  vapours,  and,  as  Knnkel 
observed,  they  greatly  contribute  towards  the 

*  Dissolve  in  a  small  quantity  of  spirit  of  nitre  as  much  sil- 
ver as  it  will  take  ;  put  a  few  drops  of  this  into  some  of  the 
.  spirit  of  nitre  that  is  to  l)e  prov^ed  ;  if  this  spirit  remains 
transparent,  it  is  pure  ;  but  if  a  whte  cloud  be  perceived, 
•which  will  afterwards  form  a  sediment,  it  is  a  sign  that  there 
js'a  commixture  of  vitriol  or  spirit  of  salt.  In  ordt^r  there- 
fore to  render  the  spirit  of  nitre  absolutely  pure,  drop  the 
solution  of  silver  gradually  into  it,  so  long  as  it  shall  produce 
ihe  least  turbidness,  time  being  given  for  the  sprit  to  be- 
come clear  betwixt  each  addition.  The  spirit  of  nitre  be- 
ingthen  poured  off  from  th-  sediment. will  be  perfectly  pure ; 
and  if  this  sediment,  which  is  the  silver  precipitated,  be 
evaporated  to  dryness,  and  then  infused  in  a  crucible  with 
a  small  quantity  of  any  fixed  alkaline  salt,  it  will  be  reduced 
to  its  proper  metalline  state. 


dyer's  companion.  201 

brightness  of  the  colour,  either  because  these 
vapours  are  acids   that  evaporate   and  are  lost, 
or    contain   a  sulphur  peculiar  to  salt  pttre, 
which  gives  a  brightness  to  the  colour     This 
method  is  indeed  much  longer  than  that  used 
by  tlie  dyers,  who  immediately  pour  the  aqua- 
fortis upon  the  tin  reduced  to  small  pieces,  and 
wait  till  a  strong  fermentation  ensues,  and  a 
great  quantity  evaporates  before  they  weaken  it 
with  common  water.     When  the  tin  is  thus 
dissolved,  this  scarlet  coniposition  is  made,  and 
the  liquor  is  of  the  beautiful  colour  of  dissolved 
gold,  without  any  dirt  or  black  sediment,  as  I 
used  very  pure  tin  without  allay,  and  such  as 
runs  from  the  first  melting  of  the  furnaces  of 
Cornwall.     This  solution  of  tin  is  very  trans- 
parent when  newly  made,  and  becomes  milky 
and  opaque  during  the  great  heat  of  summer  ; 
the  greatest  part  of  the  dyers  «nre  of  opinion,  that 
it  is  then  changed  and  good  for  nothing  ;  yet 
mine,    notvvithstanding   this  defect,    made  as 
bright  scarlet  as  if  it  had  remained  clear ;  be- 
sides, in  cold  weather  what  I  made  recovered  its 
first  transparency.    It  must  be  kept  in  a  glass 
bottle  with  a  stopper,  to  prevent  the  evapohition 
of  the  volatile  parts. 

As  the  dyers  do  not  attend  to  this,  their  com- 
position often  becomes  useless  at  the  end  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  days.  I  have  laid  down  the 
best  method,  and,  if  they  seek  perfection,  they 
will  abandon  their  old  practice,  which  is  imper- 
fect. 

The  dyers  in  France  first  put  into  a  stone 
vessel,  with  a  l;irge  opening,  two  pounds  of 
salt  ammoniac,  two  ounces  of  refined  saltpetre, 
and  two  pounds  of  tin  reduced  to  grains  by 
water,  or,  which  is  ^still  preferable,  the  filings 
of  till  ;  for  when  it  h*as  been  melted  and  granu- 
lated, there  is  always  a  small  portion  converted 
S2 


202  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

into  a  calx  which  does  not  dissolve.  They 
weigh  four  pounds  of  water  in  a  separate  ves- 
sel, of  which  they  pour  about  two  ounces  upon 
the  mixture  in  the  stone  vessel  ;  they  then  add 
a  pound  and  a  half  of  common  cquafortis,  which 
to  it  produces  a  violent  fermentation.  When  the 
ebullition  ceases,  they  put  in  the  same  quantity 
of  aquafortis,  and  an  instant  after  they  add  one 
pound  more.  I'hey  then  put  in  the  remainder  of 
the  four  pounds  of  water  they  had  set  aside  ;  the 
vessel  is  then  close  covered,  and  the  composi- 
tion let  to  stand  till  the  next  day. 

The  salt  petre  and  salt  ammoniac  are  some- 
times dissolved  in  the  aquafortis  before  the  tin 
is  put  in  ;  they  practise  both  methods  indiscri- 
minately,  though  it  is  certain  that  this  last  me- 
thofl  is  best.  Others  mix  the  water  and  aqua- 
fortis together,  and  pour  this  mixture  on  the  tin 
and  salt  ammoniac.  In  short,  every  dyer  fol- 
lows his  own  method. 

Water/or  the  Prefiaration  of  Scarlet. 

The  day  after  preparing  the  composition,  the 
water  f  )r  the  preparation  of  scarlet  is  made, 
which  differs  from  that  macle  in  the  preceding 
receipt. 

Clear  the  water  well.  For  each  pound  of 
spun  wool,  put  twenty  quarts  of  vt  ry  clear  ri- 
ViT- water  Chard  spring  water  will  not  do)  into  a 
small  copper.  When  the  water,  is  a  little  more 
than  lukewarm, two  ouncesof  the  cream  of  tartar 
finely  powdered,  and  one  drachm  and  a  half  of 
powdered  and  silted  cochineal  is  added.  The  fire 
is  then  made  a  little  stronger,  and  \\  hen  the  li- 
quor is  ready  to  boil  tno  ounces  of  the  compo- 
sition are  put  in.  This  acid  instandy  changes 
the  colour  of  the  liquor,  which,  from  a  crimson, 
becom'  s  of  the  colour  of  blood. 

As  soon  as  this-  liquor  begins  to  boil,  the 


dyer's  companion.  203 

wool  is  clipped  in,  which  must  have  been  pre- 
viously wetted  in  warm  water  and  \vrung. 
The  wool  is  continually  worked  in  this  liquor, 
and  left  to  boil  an  hour  and  a  half;  it  is  then 
taken  out,  slightly  wrung,  and  washed  in  fresh 
water.  The  wool  coming  out  of  the  liquor  is 
of  a  lively  flesh  colour,  or  even  some  shades 
deeper,  according  to  the  goodness  of  the  cochi- 
neal, and  the  strength  of  the  compositi»i.  The 
colour  of  the  liquor  is  then  entirely  passed  into 
the  wool,  remaining  almost  as  clear  as  common 
water. 

'I'his  is  called  the  water  of  preparation  for 
scarlet,  and  the  first  preparation  it  goes  through 
before  it  is  dyed ;  a  preparation  absolutely  neces- 
sary, without  which  the  dye  of  the  cochineal 
Would  not  be  so  good. 

Reddening. 

To  finish  it,  a  fresh  liquor  is  prepared  with 
clear  water,  the  goodnes>  of  the  water  being  of 
the  greatest  imp  )rtance  towards  the  perfection 
of  the  scarlet.  An  ounce  and  a  half  of  starch 
is  put  in*,  and  when  the  liquor  is  a  little  more 
than  lukewarm,  six  drachms  and  a  half  of  coch- 
ineal finely  powdered  and  sifted  is  thrown  in. 
A  little  before  the  liquor  boils,  two  ounces  of 
the  composition  is  poured  in,  and  the  liquor 
changes  its  colour  as  in  the  former.  It  nuist 
biiil,  and  then  the  wool,  is  put  into  the  copper, 
and  continuMlly  stirnd  us  in  the  former.  It  is 
likewise  boiled  an  hour  and  a  half;  it  is  then 
taken  out,  wrung,  and  washed.  The  scarlet  is 
then  in  its  perfection. 

One  ounce  of  cochineal  is  sufficient  fcjT  a 
pound  of  wool,  provided  it  be  worked  with  at- 

*  Starch  softens  it. 


2@4  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

tention,  and  after  the  manner  laid  down,  and 
that  no  dye  remains  in  the  liquor.  For  coarse 
cloth  less  would  do,  or  half  as  much  for  worst- 
ed. Hovvever,  if  it  was  required  to  be  deeper 
of  cochineal,  a  drachm  or  tno  might  be  added, 
but  not  more,  for  it  would  then  lose  its  lustre 
and  brightness. 

Though  I  have  mentioned  the  quantity  of  the 
composition,  both  in  the  water  of  the  prepara- 
tion and  the  dye,  yet  this  propordon  is  not  to  be 
taken  as  a  fixed  rule. 

The  aqu  tfortis  used  by  the  dyers,  is  seldom 
of  an  equal  strength  ;  if,  therefore,  it  be  always 
mixed  with  an  equ.il  quantity  of  water,  the  com- 
position would  not  produce  the  same  effect :  but 
there  is  a  method  of  ascertaining  the  decree  of 
acidity  of  aquafortis.  For  example,  to  use  that 
only,  two  ounces  of  which  would  dissolve  one 
ounce  of  silver.  This  w^ould  produce  a  com- 
position that  would  be  always  equal,  but  the 
quality  of  the  cochiiieil  w  iild  then  produce 
new  varieties,  and  the  trifling  difference  that  this 
commonly  causes  in  the  shade  of  scarlet  is  of  no 
great  signification,  as  more  or  less  may  be  used 
to  bring  it  precisely  to  the  colour  desired.  If 
the  composition  be  weak,  and  the  aforesaid 
quantity  not  put  in,  the  scarlet  will  be  a  deeper 
and  fuller  in  colour.  On  the  contrary,  if  a  little 
more  is  added,  it  will  be  more  on  the  orange,  and 
have  what  is  called  more  fire  ;  to  rectify  which, 
add  a  little  of  the  composition,  stirring  it  well  in 
thf  copper,  having  first  taken  out  the  wool ;  for 
if  it  was  to  touch  any  part  before  it  was 
thoroughly  mixed,  it  would  blot  it.  If,  on  the 
contrary,  the  scarlet  has  too  much  fire,  that  is, 
too  much  on  the  orange,  or  too  much  ronz-jd,  it 
must  be  passed  through  clear  warm  water;  when 
finished,  this  saddens  it  a  litde,  that  is,  diminish- 
es its  bright  orange  j  if  there  still  remained  too 


dyer's  companion.  205 

much,  a  little  Roman  allum  must  be  mixed  with 
the  hot  water. 

For  spun  wool  that  is  to  have  all  the  various 
shades  of  scarlet,  about  half  the  cochineal,  and 
half  the  composition  for  full  scarlet  is  sufficient. 
The  cream  of  tartar  must  also  be  diminished 
proportionahly  in  the  water  of  preparation.  The 
wool  must  be  divided  into  as  many  hanks  or 
skains  as  there  are  to  Ijc  shades,  and  when  the  li- 
quor is  prepared,  the  skains  that  are  to  be  lightest 
are  first  to  be  dipped,  and  to  remain  in  but  a 
very  short  space  of  time  ;  then  those  that 
are  to  be  a  little  deeper,  which  must  remain  in 
somewhat  longer,  and  thus  proceeding  to  the 
deepest ;  the  wool  is  then  to  be  washed,  and  the 
liquor  prepared  to  finish  them.  In  this  liquor, 
each  of  these  shades  are  to  be  boiled  one  after 
the  other,  beginning  always  with  the  lightest,  and 
if  they  are  perceived  not  to  be  of  the  proper 
shade  thoy  must  be  passed  again  through  the  li- 
quor. The  eye  of  a  dyer,  will  readily  judge  of 
the  shades,  and  a  little  practice  will  bring  this  to 
perfection. 

The  dyers  are  divided  in  opinion  of  what  me- 
tal the  boiler  should  be  made.  In  Languedoc 
they  use  those  made  of  the  finest  block -tin,  and 
several  dyers,  in  Paris  follow  the  same  method. 
Yet  that  great  dyer,  M.  de  Julienne,  whose 
scarlets  are  in  great  repute,  uses  brass.  The 
same  is  used  in  the  great  manufactory  at  St, 
Dennis.  M.  de  Julienne,  to  keep  the  stuffs  from 
touching  the  boikr,  makes  use  of  large  rope  nets 
with  close  meshes*  At  St.  Dennis,  instead  of  a 
rope  net,  they  have  large  baskets,  made  of  wil- 
low stripped  of  the  bark,  and  not  too  close  work- 
ed. 

As  so  much  had  been  said  concerning  the 
metal  of  the  boiler,  I  tried  the  experiment.  I 
took  two  ells  of  white  sedan  cloth,  which  I  dyed 


206  APPENDIX    TO  THE 

in  two  separate  boilers  of  equal  size  ;  one  was  of 
brass,  fitted  with  a  rope  net,  the  other  of  block 
tin.  The  cochineal,  the  composition,  and  other 
ingredients,  were  weighed  with  the  utmost  aq- 
curacy  and  boiled  precisely  tiie  same  time.  In 
short,  I  took  all  possible  care  that  the  process 
should  be  the  same  in  both,  that  if  any  difference 
arose  it  might  only  be  attributed  to  the  different 
metals  of  tiie  boiler.  After  the  first  liquor,  the 
two  pieces  of  cloth  were  absolutely  alike  only 
that  which  had  been  boiled  in  the  tin  vessel  ap- 
peared a  little  more  streaked  and  uneven,  which, 
in  all  lib.lihood,  proceeded  from  these  two  ells 
of  cloth  being  less  scoured  at  the  mill  than  the 
tvvo  otht^rs ;  tne  two  pieces  were  finished  each 
in  the  separate  boilers,  and  both  turned  out  very 
file ;  but  that  «vhich  had  been  made  in  the  tin 
boiler  had  a  little  more  fire  than  the  other,  and 
the  last  was  a  little  more  saddened.  It  would 
have  been  an  easy  maner  to  have  brought  them 
both  to  the  same  shade,  but  that  was  not  my 
intention. 

From  this  experiment,  I  conclude,  that  when 
a  brass  boiler  is  used,  it  requires  a  little  more  of 
the  composition  than  the  tin  one  ;  but  this  addi- 
tion of  the  compos'rti'^n  makes  the  cloth  feel 
rough  ;  to  avoid  this  defect,  the  dyers  whf)  use 
brass  vessels  put  in  a  little  turmeric,  a  drug  of 
the  dye,  but  which  gives  to  sc  irlet  that  shade 
which  is  now  in  fishion  ;  I  mean  that  flame- 
colour,  which  the  eve  is  scarce  able  to  bear. 

This  adulteration  is  easily  discovered  by  cut- 
ting a  piece  of  the  cloth  ;  if  there  is  no  turmeric, 
the  web  will  be  of  a  fine  white,  but  yellow  if 
there  is.  When  the  web  is  dyed  the  same  as  the 
surface,  it  is  said  that  colour  is  webbed,  and  the 
contrary,  when  the  middle  of  the  weaving  re- 
inains  white.  The  lawful  scarlet  is  never  dyed 
in  the  we!) :  the  adulterated,  w  here  the  turmeric 
or  fustic  has  been  made  use  of,  is  more  liable  to 


■dyer's  companion.  207 

liange  its  colour  in  the  air  than  the  other.    But 
'  as  the  brightest  scarlets  are  now  in  fashion,  and 

must  have  a  yellow  cast,  it  is  better  to  t-  It  rate 
the  use  of  turmeric,  than  to  use  too  great  a  quan- 
tity of  the  comiK)sition  to  bring  the  scarlet  to  ihis 
shade ;  for  in  this  last  case,  the  cloth  would  be 
damaged  by  it,  would  be  sooner  spotted  by  dirt 
from  the  quality  of  the  acid,  and  would  be  more 
easily  torn,  because  acids  stiffen  the  fibres  of  the 
wool,  and  render  them  brittle. 
^  I  must  also  take  notice,  that  if  a  copper  vessel 
IS  used  it  cannotbe  k(  pt  too  clean.  I  have  failed 
several  times  with  my  patterns  of  scarlet,  by  not 
having  the  copper  scoured. 

^  I  cannot  help  condemning  the  common  prac- 
tice of  some  dyers,  even  the  most  eminent,  who 
prepare  their  liquor  ovtr  night,  and  keep  it  hot 
till  next  mornijig,  when  they  dip  in  their  stuffs; 
this  they  do,  not  to  lose  time,  but  it  is  certain 
th>'.t  the  liquor  corrodes  the  copper  in  that  space, 
and  by  introducing  particles  of  copper  in  the 
cl'.)th,  prejudices  the  beauty  of  the  scarlet.  They 
may  say  they  only  put  in  their  composition  just 
at  the  time  u  hen  the  cloth  is  ready  to  be  dipt  in 
the  copper ;  but  the  cream  of  tartar,  or  the  white 
tartar,  which  they,  put  in  ovtr  uight,  is  an  acid 
salt  sufficient  to  corrode  tl.e  copper  of  the  vessel, 
and  form  a  verdigreuse,  although  it  dilutes  itself 
as  ]t  forms,  still  has  not  a  less  effect. 

It  would  therefore  be  better  to  make  use  of 
tin  boilers,  a  boiler  of  this  metal  must  Cfjntri- 
bnte  to  the  beauty  of  scarlet  ;  but  these  boilers 
of  a  sufficient  size  cost  much,  and  may  be  melt- 
ed by  die  negligence  of  the  workmen,  and  there 
is  a  difficulty  m  casting  them  of  so  great  a  size 
without  sand  flaws,  which  must  be  filled.  Now 
if  these  sand-holts  i-re  filled  \vith  solder,  there 
must  of  necessity  be  places  in  the  boiUr  that 
contain  lead  ;  this  lead  in  time  being  corroded 


208  APPENDIX  TO  THfc 

by  the  acid  of  the  composition,  v.  ill  tarnish  the 
scarlet.  But  if  such  a  boiler  could  be  cast  with- 
out any  sand-holes,  it  is  certain  such  a  one 
would  be  prefi  rable  to  all  others,  as  it  contracts 
no  rust,  and  if  the  acid  of  the  liquor  detaches 
some  parts,  tht-y  cannot  be  hurtful. 

Having  laid  down  the  manner  of  dying  spun 
■wool  in  scarlet,  and  its  various  sh:ides,  which 
are  so  necessary  for  tapestry  and  other  work,  it 
is  proper  to  give  an  idea  of  the  dying  of  several 
pieces  of  stuff  at  one  tirne.  I  shall  relate  this 
operation  as  it  is  practised  iit  Languedoc.  I 
made  the  trial  on  some  ells  of  stuff,  which  suc- 
ceeded very  well,  but  this  scarlet  was  not  so  fine 
as  the  flame  coloured. 

There  are  two  reasons  why  the  W'ool  is  not 
dyed  before  it  is  spun  (for  fine  colours)  first  in 
the  course  of  the  manufacturing,  that  is,  either 
in  the  spinning,  card.ng,  or  weaving,  it  would 
be  almost  impossible  in  a  hirge  u  orkshop,  where 
there  are  many  workmen,  but  that  some  parti- 
cles  of  white  wool,  or  some  other  colour  would 
mix,  which  would  spoil  that  of  the  stuff  by 
blotting  it  ever  so  little ;  for  that  reason,  the 
reds,  the  blues,  the  yellows,  the  greens,  and  all 
other  colours  that  are  to  be. perfectly  uniform, 
are  never  dyed  before  they  are  manufictured. 

The  second  reason,  which  is  peculiar  to  scar- 
let, or  rather  to  cochineal,  is,  that  it  will  not 
stand  the  milling,  and  as  the  greatest  part  of 
high  stuffs  must  be  r.iilled  after  they  are  taken 
from  the  loom,  the  cochinetil  would  lose  part  of 
its  colour,  or  at  least  would  be  greatly  sadcien- 
ed  by  the  soap,  which  produces  this  effect  by 
the  alkaline  salt  which  destroys  the  brightness 
given  to  the  red  by  the  acid.  These  arc  the 
reasons  that  the  cloths  and  stuffs  are  not  d>  ed  in 
scarlet,  light  red,  crimson,  violet,  purple,  and 

odier  light  colours,  but  after  being  entirely  m'l!-. 
f.;l  .,.,.1  ,-»,.  ^.^..,1 


dyer's  COMPANIOJi.  209 

To  dye,  for  example,  five  pieces  of  cloth  at 
one  time  of  five  quarters  breadth,  and  contain- 
ing fifteen  or  sixteen  ells  each,  the  following  pro- 
portions are  to  be  observed.  Put  into  a  stone 
or  glazed  earthen  pot  twelve  pounds  of  aqua- 
fortis, and  twenty  pounds  of  water,  to  which 
add  a  pound  and  a  half  of  tin,  made  in  grains  by 
running  it  in  water,  or  filed.  The  dissolution  is 
made  quicker  or  slower,  according  to  the  greater 
or  lesser  acidity  of  the  aquafortis.  The  whole 
is  left  to  rest  twelve  hours  at  least,  during  which 
time  a  kind  of  black  mud  settles  at  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel ;  what  swims  over  this  sediment 
is  poured  off  by  inclination  ;  this  liquor  is  clear 
and  yellow,  and  is  the  composition  which  is  to 
be  kept  by  itself. 

This  process  differs  from  the  first  in  the  quan- 
tity of  water  mixt  with  the  .aquafortis,  and  in 
the  small  quantity  of  tin,  little  of  which  must 
remain  in  the  liquor,  since  aquafortis  alone  can- 
not dissolve  it,  but  only  corrodes  it,  and  reduces 
it  to  a  calx,  as  there  is  neither  salt  petre,  not  salt 
ammoniac  which  would  form  an  aqua  regia. 
However,  the  effect  of  this  composition  differs 
from  the  first  only  to  the  eyes  accustomed  to 
judge  of  that  colour. 

^  This  composition  made  without  salt  ammo- 
niac, and  Nvhich  has  been  of  long  use  amongst  a 
great  number  of  manufacturers  at  Carcassone, 
who  certainly  imagined  that  its  effect  was  owing 
to  the  sulphur  of  the  tin,  can  only  keep  thirty- 
six^  hours  in  winter  without  spoiling,  and  twen- 
ty-four hours  in  summer  ;  at  the  expiration  of 
which  it  grows  muddy,  and  a  cloud  precipitates 
to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  which  changes  to  a 
white  sediment.  This  is  the  small  quantity  of 
tin.  which  was  suspended  in  the  acid,  but  an 
acid  not  prepnred  for  that  m-t^l;  the  com- 
position whicli  ought  to  be  yellow  becomes  at 
T 


210  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

this  time  as  clear  as  water,  and  if  used  in  that 
state  would  not  succeed  ;  it  would  have  the 
same  effect  as  that  which  would  become  milky. 

The  late  M.  Baron  pretended  to  have  been  the 
first  discoverer  at  Carcassone  of  the  necessity  of 
adding  salt  ammoniac  to  hinder  the  tin  from 
precipitating.  If  so,  there  was  no  one  in  that 
town  that  knew  that  tin  cannot  be  repUy  dissolv- 
ed but  by  aqua  regia. 

Having  prepared  the  composition  as  I  have 
described  it  after  M.  de  Fondriers,  about  sixty 
cubical  feet  of  water  are  put  into  a  large  copper 
for  the  five  pieces  of  cloth  before  mentioned, 
and  when  the  water  grows  warm,  a  bag  with 
bran  is  put  in,  sometimes  also  sour  waters  are 
used  ;  the  one  and  the  other  serve  to  correct 
the  water,  that  is,  to  absorb  the  earthy  and  alka- 
line matters  which  may  be  in  it,  and  which,  as 
I  have  already  said,  saddens  the  dye  of  the  coch- 
ineal, for  the  effect  of  the  water  ought  to  be  well 
known,  and  experience  will  teach  whetlier  such 
expedients  should  be  used,  or  whether  the  wa- 
ter, being  very  pure  and  denulated  of  salts  and 
earthy  particles,  can  be  used  without  such  helps. 

Be  that  as  it  will,  as  soon  as  the  water  begins 
to  be  little  more  than  lukewarm,  ten  pounds  of 
powdered  cream  of  tartar  is  flung  in,  that  is, 
two  pounds  for  each  piece  of  cloth.  The  liquor 
is  then  raked  strongly,  and  when  it  grows  a  little 
hotter,  half  a  pound  of  cochineal  is  cast  in  which 
is  well  mixt  with  sticks  ;  immediately  after 
twenty-seven  pounds  of  the  composition  very 
-clear  is  poured  in,  which  is  also  well  stirred,  and 
as  soon  as  the  liquor  b,.gins  to  boil,  the  cloths 
iire  put  in,  which  are  made  to  boil  strongly  for 
tvs'o  hours,  stirring  them  continually  by  the 
lielp  of  the  wynch  :  they  are  then  taken  out  upon 
the  scray,  and  well  handled  three  or  four  times 
from  end  to  end,  by  passing  the  lists  between 


»yer's  companion.  211 

the  hands  to  air  and  cool  them.    They  are  af- 
terwards washed. 

After  the  cloth  has  been  washed,  the  copper 
is  emptied  and  a  fresh  Hquor  prepared,  to  which 
if  necessary,  a  bag  with  bran  or  some  sour  wa- 
ter is  added  ;  but  if  the  water  is  of  a  good  qua- 
lity, these  are  to  be  omitted ;  when  the  hquor 
is  ready  to  boil,  eight  pounds  and  a  quarter  of 
powdered  and  sifted  cocliineal  is  put  in,  which 
is  to  be  mixed  as  equally  as  possible  through- 
out the  liquor,  and  having  left  off  stirring,  it 
is  to  be  observed  Avhen  the  cochineal  rises  on 
the  surfice  of  the  water,  and  forms  a  crust  of 
the  colour  of  the  lees  of  the  wine  ;  the  instant 
this  crust  opens  of  itself  in  several  places,  eigii- 
teen  or  twenty  pounds  of  the  composition  is  to 
be  added.  A  vessel  with  cold  water  must  be 
at  hand  to  cast  on  the  liquor  in  case  it  should 
rise,  as  it  sometimes  does,  after  the  composition 
is  put  in. 

As  soon  as  the  composition  is  in  the  copper, 
and  equally  distributed  throughout  the  whole, 
tlie  cloth  is  cast  in,  and  the  vvynch  strongly 
turned  two  or  three  times,  that  all  the  pieces 
may  equally  take  the  dye  of  the  cochineaL 
Afterwards  it  is  turned  slowly  to  let  the  wdttr 
boil,  which  it  must  do  very  fast  for  one  hour, 
always  turning  the  wynch,  and  sinking  the  cloth 
in  the  liquor  with  sticks,  when  by  boiling  it 
rises  too  much  on  the  surface.  The  cloth  is 
then  taken  out,  and  the  lists  passed  between 
the  hands  to  air  and  cool  it  ;  it  is  then  washed, 
after  which  it  is  to  be  dried  and  dressed. 

In  each  piece  of  the  Languedoc  scarlet  cloth 
there  is  used,  as  has  been  shewn,  one  <^nund 
and  three-quarters  of  cochineal  in  the  dye  and 
l)reparation  ;  this  quantity  is  sufficient  to  give 
the  cloth  a  very  beautiful  colour.  If  more  coch- 
ineal was  added,  and  a  deeper   orange-colour 


212  '         APPENDIX  -EG  THE 

require!,  the  quantity  of  the  composition  must 
.fee  iuigmented. 

_  When  a  great  quantity  of  stiifFs  are  to  be  dyed 
in  scarlet,  a  conidtr  -ble  profit  arises  bv  do- 
ing them  together,  for  the  same  Hquor  serves 
ior  the  second  dip  which  M'as  used  tor  the  first. 
For  examole  :  when  the  five  first  pitxes  are  fin- 
ished, t'here  ahvay;s  remains  in  the  hquor  a 
certain  quantity  of  cochineal,  which  in  seven 
pounds  may  amount  to  twelve  ounces  ;  so  that 
if  this  liquor  be  used  to  dye  other  stuffs,  the 
cloths  dipped  in  it  will  have  the  same  shade  of 
rose  colour  as  if  they  had  been  dyed  in  a  fresh 
liquor  with  twelve  ounces  of  cochineal ;  yet  this 
quantity  may  vary  pretty  much,  according  to 
the  quality  or  choice  of  the  cochineal,  or  ac- 
c»ording  to  '  !.e  fineness  it  has  been  reduced  to 
when  powder*,  d.  But  whatever  colour  may  re- 
main in  the  liquor,  it  deserves  some  attention 
on  account  of  the  high  price  of  this  drug.  The 
same  liquor  is  then  made  use  of  for  other  five 
pieces,  and  less  cochineal  and  composition  are 
put  in  proportion  to  what  may  be  judged  to  re- 
main ;  fire  and  time  are  also  saved  by  this,  and 
yose-colour  and  flesh -colour  may  also  be  pro- 
duced from  it ;  but  if  the  dyers  have  no  leisure 
to  make  these  different  liquors  in  twenty. four 
hours,  the  colour  of  the  liquor  corrupts,  grow-s 
turbid,  and  loses  the  rose-colour  entire  ly.  To 
prevent  this  corruption  some  put  in  Roman  al- 
Uim,  but  the  scarlets  which  are  prepared  affcer 
that  manner  are  ill  saddened. 

When  cloths  of  different  qualities,  or  any 
©ther  stuffs  are  to  be  dyed,  the  surest  method  is 
to  weigh  them,  and  for  each  hundred  weight  of 
cloth  add  about  six  pounds  of  crystal  or  cream 
of  tartar,  eighteen  pounds  of  composition  in  the 
water  of  preparation,  as  much  for  the  reddening, 
and  six  pounds  and  a  quarter  of  cochineal. 
Thus  in  proportion  for  one  pound  of  stuff  use 


dyer's  companion.  213 

one  ounce  of  cream  of  tartar,  six  ounces  of  com- 
position, and  one  ounce  of  cochineal ;  some  emi- 
nent dyers  at  Paris  put  tvvo-thirds  of  the  com- 
position and  a  fourth  of  the  cochineal  in  the 
water  of  preparation,  and  the  other  third  of  the 
composition  with  three-fourths  of  the  cochineal 
in  reddening. 

It  is  not  customary  to  put  cream  of  tartar  in 
the  reddening,  yet  I  am  certain,  by  experience, 
that  it  does  not  hurt,  provided  the  quantity  does 
not  exceed  half  the  weight  of  the  cochineal,  and 
it  appeared  to  me  to  make  a  more  lasting  colour. 
Some  dyers  have  made  scarlet  with  three  dip-, 
pings  ;  namely,  a  first  and  second  water  for  pre- 
paration, aiid  then  the  reddening  ;  but  still  the 
same  quantity  of  drugs  is  ahvaj's  used. 

I  observed,  in  the  foregoing  receipt,  that  the 
little  use  made  of  kermes  for  the  brown  or  Ve- 
netian scarlets,  obliges  most  dyers  to  make  them 
with  cochineal ;  for  this  purpose  a  water  of  pre- 
paration is  made  as  usual ;  and  for  the  redden- 
ing, eight  pounds  of  allum  are  added  for  each 
hundred  weight  of  stuff;  this  allum  is  dissolved 
by  itself  in  a  kettle,  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
water,  then  poured  into  the  liquor  before  the 
cochineal  is  put  in»  The  remainder  is  perform- 
ed exactly  as  in  the  common  scarlet ;  this  is  the 
Venetian  scarlet,  but  it  has  not  near  the  same 
solidity  as  if  made  with  the  kermes. 

There  are  no  alkaline  salts  which  do  not  sad- 
den scarlet ;  of  this  number  are  the  salt  of  tartar, 
potash,  pearlash  calcined,  and  nitre  fixed  by 
fire ;  therefore  allum  is  more  generally  used; 
and  if  these  alkaline  salts  be  boiled  with  the 
stuffs,  they  would  considerably  damage  them, 
for  they  dissolve  all  animal  substances.  If  the 
allum  be  calcined,  it  is  still  the  more  secure- 

The  redder  the  scarlet  is,  the  more  it  has  been 
saddened ;  from  thence  it  appet'js  that  these  co- 
T2 


214  APPENDIX  to  TH2 

lours  lose  in  the  liquor  that  browns  them  a  part 
of  their  ground  ;  however  one  cannot  brown  in 
the  good  dye  but  with  .salts.  The  late  M,  Ba- 
ron  observes,  in  a  memfcir  he  gave  sometime  ago 
to  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences,  that  all  the 
salts  lie  had  made  use  of  for  browning,  making 
the  colour  smooth,  and  preserving  its  brightness 
and  deepness,  he  had  succeeded  best  with  salt 
of  urine,  but,  as  he  observes,  it  is  too  trouble- 
some to  make  this  salt  in  any  quantity. 

I  said,  in  the  preceding  receipt  and  the  chap- 
ter  on  yellow,  that  the  choice  of  the  water  for 
scarlet  and  other  bright  cxDlours  was  vtry  mate- 
rial, and  as  the  greatest  part  of  common  water 
saddens  it,  for  tliey  mostly  contain  a  chalky,  cal- 
careous earth,  and  sometimes  a  sulphureous  or 
vitriolic  acid  ;  these  are  commonly  called  hard 
-waters,  that  is,  they  will  not  dissolve  soap  or 
boil  vegetables  Avell.  By  finding  a  method  of 
;ibsorbing  or  precipitating  these  hurtful  matters, 
all  waters  nridy  be  equall:;^'  good  for  this  kind  of 
dye  :  thus,  if  alkaline  matters  are  to  be  removed, 
a  little  sour  water  produces  this  effect ;  for  if 
five  or  six  buckets  of  these  sour  waters  are  mix- 
ed  with  sixty  or  seventy  of  the  hard  water  be- 
fore it  comes  to  boil,  these  alkaline  earths  rise 
in  a  scum,  which  is  easily  taken  off  the  liquor. 

All  that  I  have  hitherto  said  in  this  chiipta* 
is  for  the  instruction  of  dyers  ;  I  shall  now  make 
an  attempt  to  satisfy  the  philosopher  how  these 
different  effects  are  produced. 

Cochineal,  infused  or  boiled  by  itself  in  pure 
water,  gives  a  crimson  col  hi r  bordering  on  the 
purple  ;  this  is  its  natural  colour  ;  put  it  into  a 
glass,  and  drop  on  it  spirits  of  nitre  ;  this  colour, 
will  become  yellow,  and  if  you  still  add  more, 
3^ou  will  scarcely  perceive  that  there  was  origin- 
ally anyred  in  the  l^cjuor;  thus  the  acid  destroys  the 
red  by  dissolving  k  and  dividing  its  parts  so  mi- 
iiutely  that  they  escape  the  sight.    If  in  this  ejc- 


JiYZR*S   COMPANION.  215 

periment  a  vitriolic,  instead  of  a  nitrous  acid 
be  used,  the  first  changes  of  the  colour  will  be 
purple,  then  purpled  lilac,  after  that  a  light  lilac, 
then  flesh- colour,  and  lastly  colourless.  This 
blueish  substance,  which  mixes  with  the  red  to 
form  a  pu,r|)le,  may  proceed  from  that  small  por- 
tion of  iron,  from  vvhich  oil  of  vitriol  is  rarely 
exempt.  In  the  liquor  of  preparation  for  scar- 
let, no  other  salt  but  cream  of  tartar  is  used,  no 
all  urn  is  added  as  in  the  common  preparing  wa- 
ter for  other  colours,^  because  it  would  sadden 
the  dye  by  its  vitriolic  acid  ;  yet  a  calx  or  lime 
is  required,  which,  with  the  red  parts  of  the 
cochineal,  may  form  a  kind  of  lake,  like  that  the 
painters  use,  which  may  set  in  the  pores  of  the 
wool  by  the  help  of  the  crystal  of  tartar. 

This  white  calx  is  found  in  the  solution  of 
very  pure  tin,  and  if  the  experiment  of  the  dye 
is  made  in  any  small  glazed  earthen  vessel,  im- 
mediately on  the  cochineal's  communicating  its 
tincture  to  the  water,  and  then  adding  the  com- 
position drop  by  drop,  each  drop  may  be  per- 
ceived with  a  glass  or  lens,  to  form  a  small  cir- 
cle, in  vvhich  a  brisk  ferinentation  is  carried  on  ; 
the  calx  of  the  tin  will  be  seen  to  separate,  and 
instantaneously  to  take  the  bright  dye,  which 
the  cloth  will  receive  in  the  sequel  of  the  ope- 
ration. 

A  further  proof  that  this  white  calx  of  tin  is 
necessary  in  this  operation,  is  that  if  cochineal 
was  used  with  aquafortis,  or  spirits  of  nitre 
alone  a  very  ugly  crimson  would  be  obtained ;  if  a 
solution  of  any  other  metal  was  made  use  of  in 
spirits  of  nitre,  as  of  iron  or  mercury,  from  the 
first  would  be  had  a  deep  cinder- grey,  aixl  from 
the  second,  a  chesnut  colour  with  green  streaks, 
without  being  able  to  trace  in  the  one  or  other 
any  remains  of  the  red  of  the  cochineal.  There- 
Ibre,  by  what  I  hav«  laid  down,  it  jnay  b*  r^a^ 


216  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

sonable  to  suppose,  that  the  white  calx  of  the 
tin,  having  been  dyed  by  the  colouring  parts  of 
the  cochineal,  rouzed  by  the  acid  of  the  dis- 
solvent of  this  metal,  has  formed  this  kind  of 
earthj'^  lake  whose  atoms  have  introduced  them- 
selves into  the  pores  of  the  wool,  which  were 
opened  by  the  boiling  water,  that  they  are  plais- 
tered  by  the  crystal  of  tartar,  and  these  pores, 
suddenly  contracting  by  the  immediate  cold  the 
cloth  was  exposed  to  by  airing,  that  these  co- 
louring particles  are  found  sufficiently  set  in  to^ 
be  of  the  good  dye,  and  that  the  air  will  take  off 
the  primitive  brightness,  in  proportion  to  the  va- 
rious matters  with  which  it  is  impregnated.  In 
the  countr5^  for  example,  and  particularly  if  the 
situation  be  high,  a  scarlet  cloth  preserves  its 
brightness  much  longer  than  in  great  cities, 
where  the  urinous  and  alkaline  vapours  are 
more  abundant.  For  the  same  reason,  the 
country  mud  with,  which  in  roads  is  generally 
but  an  earth  diluted  by  rain  water  does  not  stain 
scarlet  as  the  mud  of  towns  where  there  are 
urinous  matters,  and  often  a  greatdeal  of  dissolv- 
ed iron,  as  in  the  streets  of  great  cities,  for  it  is 
ivell  known  that  any  alkaline  matter  destroys  the 
effect  which  an  acid  has  produced  on  any  co- 
lour  whatsoever.  And  for  the  like  reason,  if  a 
piece  of  scarlet  is  boiled  in  a  lie  of  potash,  this 
colour  becomes  purple,  and  by  a  continuation 
of  boiling  it  isentirely  taken  out ;  thus  from  this 
fixed  alkali,  and  the  crystal  of  tartar,  a  soluble 
tartar  is  made,  which  the  water  dissolves  and 
easily  detaches  from  the  pores  of  the  wool :  all 
the  mastic  of  the  colouring  parts  is  then  destroy  • 
ed,  and  they  enter  into  the  lies  of  the  salts. 

Receifit  13!«r.     Scarlet  of  Gum-Lacgue. 

THE  red  part  of  the  gum-lacque  may  be 


over's  coMPANiejj.  217 

also  used  for  the  dying  of  scarlet,  and  If  this 
scarlet  has  not  all  the  briglitness  of  that  made 
of  fine  cochineal  alone,  it  has  the  advantage  of 
being  more  lasthig. 

The  gum-lacque,  which  is  in  branches  oi 
small  sticks  and  full  of  animal  parts,  is  the  fit- 
test for  dying.  It  must  be  red  within,  and  its 
external  parts  of  a  blackish  brown  ;  it  appears 
by  a  particular  examination  made  of  it  by  M; 
Geoffroy  5ome  years  since,  that  it  is  a  sort  of 
hive,  somewhat  like  that  of  bees,  wasps,  &.c. 

Some  dyers  make  use  of  it  powdered  and  tied 
in  a  linen  bag  ;  but  this  is  a  bad  method,  for 
there  always  passes  through  the  cloth  some  re- 
sinous portion  of  the  gum,  which  melts  in  the 
boiling  water  of  the  copper,  and  sticks  to  the 
cloth,  where  it  becomes  so  adherent  when  cold, 
that  it  must  be  scraped  off  with  a  knife. 

Others  reduce  it  to  powder,  boil  it  in  watef; 
and  after  it  has  given  all  its  colour,  let  it  cool, 
and  the  resinous  parts  fall  to  the  bottom.  The 
water  is  poured  out,  and  evaporated  by  the  air, 
where  it  often  becomes  stinking,  and  when  it 
has  acquired  the  consistence  of  thick  honey,  it 
is  put  into  vessels  for  use.  Under  this  form 
it  is  pretty  difficult  justly  to  determine  the  quan- 
tity that  is  used  ;  this  induced  me  to  seek  the 
means  of  obtaining  this  tincture  separated  from 
its  resinous  gum,  without  being  obliged  to  evap, 
orate  so  great  a  quantity  of  water  to  have  it  dry, 
and  to  reduce  it  to  powder. 

I  tried  it  with  weak  lime  water,  with  a  de- 
coction of  the  heart  of  agaric,  with  a  decoction 
of  comfrey -root,  recommended  in  an  ancient 
book  of  physic  ;  in  all  these  the  water  leaves  a 
part  of  the  dye,  and  it  still  passes  too  full  of  co- 
lour, and  it  ought  to  be  evaporated  to  get  all 
the  dye  ;  this  evaporation  I  wanted  to  avoid, 
therefore  I  made  use  of  mucilaginous  or  slimy 


218  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

roots,  which  of  themselves  gave  no  colour,  but 
"whose  mucilage  might  retain  the  colouring 
parts,  so  that  they  might  remain  with  it  on  the 
filter. 

The  great  comfrej^-root  has,  as  j'et,  the  best 
answered  my  intention :  I  use  it  dry  and  in  a  gross 
powder,  putting  half  a  drachm  to  each  quart 
of  water,  which  is  boiled  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
passing  it  through  a  hair  sieve.  It  immediate- 
ly extracts  from  it  a  beautiful  crimson  tincture  ; 
put  the  vessel  to  digest  in  a  moderate  heat  for 
twelve  hours,  shaking  it  seven  or  eight  times  to 
mix  it  with  the  gum  that  remains  at  the  bottom, 
then  pour  off  the  water  this  is  loaded  with  co- 
lour in  a  vessel  sufficiently  large,  that  three- 
fourths  may  remain  empty,  and  fill  it  with  cold 
water  :  then  pour  a  very  small  quantity  of  strong 
solution  of  Roman  allum  on  the  tincture;  the 
mucilaginous  or  slimy  dye  precipitates  itself, 
and  if  the  water  which  appears  on  the  top  ap- 
pears still  coloured,  add  some  drops  of  the  so- 
lution of  alliim  to  finijih  the  precipitation,  and 
this  repeat  till  the  water  becomes  as  clear  as 
common  water. 

Wlien  the  crimson  mucilage  or  slime  is  all 
sunk  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  draw  off  the 
clear  water,  and  filter  the  remainder ;  after 
which,  dry  it  in  the  sun. 

If  the  first  mucilaginous  water  has  not  extract, 
ed  all  the  colour  of  the  guni-lacque,  (which  is 
known  by  the  remaining  being  of  a  weak  straw 
colour)  repeat  the  opcnuion  until  you  separate 
all  the  dye  the  gum-lacque  can  furnish;  and  as 
it  is  reduced  to  powder  when  dry,  the  quantity 
to  be  used  in  tl-e  dye  is  more  exactly  ascertain- 
ed than  by  evaporating  it  to  the  consistence  of 
an  extract. 

Good  gum-hicquc,  picked  from  its  sticks, 
yields,  dried  and  powdered,  but  little  more  dye 


dyer's  companion.  219 

than  one- fifth  of  its  weight.  Thus  at  the  price 
it  bears  at  present,  there  is  not  so  great  an  ad- 
vantage as  many  may  imagine  in  using  it  in  the 
place  of  cochineal ;  but  to  make  the  scarlet  co- 
lour more  lasting  than  it  commonly  is,  it  may 
be  used  in  the  first  liquor  or  preparation,  and 
cochineal  for  reddening. 

If  scarlet  is  made  of  gum-lacque,  extracted 
according  to  the  method  here  taught,  and  reduc- 
ed to  powder,  a  caution  is  to  be  taken  in  dissolv- 
ing it,  vyhich  is  useless  when  cochineal  is  used  ; 
that  is,  if  it  was  put  into  the  liquor  ready  to  boil, 
tlie  dyer  would  lose  three-quarters  of  an  hour^ 
before  it  would  be  dissolved  entirely  ;  theref<3re 
for  despatch,  put  the  dose  of  tliis  dry  tincture 
into  a  large  earthen  vessel,  or  into  one  of  tin, 
pour  warm  water  on  it,  and  when  it  is  well 
moistened,  add  the  necessary  dose  of  the  com- 
position for  scarlet,  stirring  the  mixture  well 
with  a  glass  pestel.  This  powder,  which  was 
of  a  dirty  deep  purple,  as  it  dissolves  takes 
fire-coloured  red  extremely  bright  ;  pour  the 
dissolution  into  the  liquor,  in  which  was  pre- 
viously put  the  crystal  of  tartar,  and  as  soon  as 
this  liquor  begins  to  boil,  dip  the  cloth  in,  keep- 
ing it  continually  turning.  The  remaining  part 
of  the  o]>cration  is  the  same  as  that  of  scarlet 
with  cochineal :  the  extract  of  gum-lacque,  pre- 
pared according  to  my  method,  yields  about 
one-ninth  more  of  dye  than  cochineal,  at  least 
than  that  which  I  made  use  of  for  this  com- 
parison. 

If  instead  of  die  crystal  of  tartar  and  the  com- 
position of  some  fixed  alkaline  salt  or  lime  wa- 
ter is  substituted,  the  bright  red  of  the  gum- 
laequc  is  changed  into  the  colour  of  lees  of 
wine,  so  that  this  dye  does  not  sadden  so  easily 
iis  that  of  cochineal. 

If  instead  of  these  alternatives,  salt  ammpniirc 


220  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

is  used  by  itself,  cinnamon  or  clear  chesnut  co- 
lours are  obtained,  and  that  according  as  there  is 
more  or  less  of  this  salt.  I  have  made  twenty- 
other  experiments  on  this  drug,  m  hich  I  shall 
not  relate  here,  because  they  produced  none  but 
comnion  colours,  and  which  may  be  easier  had 
from  ingredients  of  a  lower  price.  My  experi- 
ments were  with  a  view  of  improving  the  red  of 
the  lacque,  and  the  method  I  have  here  laid 
down  to  extract  its  colouring  parts  answers  ex- 
tremely w  ell ;  the  more  ingredients  that  are  dis- 
covered for  scarlet,  the  less  will  be  the  cost ; 
for,  although  these  experiments  made  on  cochi- 
neal, lacque,  and  other  drugs  may  appear  use- 
less  to  some  dyers,  they  will  not  be  so  to  others 
who  study  to  improve  this  art.* 

Receifit  132rf.     Of  the  Red  of  Madder. 

THE  root  of  madder  is  the  only  part  of  this 
plant  which  is  used  in  dying-  This  plant  may 
be  cultivated  in  the  United  States  of  America 
to  great  advantage ;  it  is  three  years  after  the 
first  root  is  set  in  the  ground  before  it  comes 
to  maturity,  or  the  ground  filled  with  roots  fit 
for  digging  or  breaking  up  ;  if  it  remains  in  the 
ground  longer  than  three  seasons,  there  will  be  a 
quantity  of  useless  roots  ;  they  may  be  placed 
four  feet  apart,  in  the  first  setting  in  the  ground, 
and  hoed  the  first  year  to  keep  it  clear  from 
weeds;  if  the  ground  has  a  deep  soil  it  will  be 
filled  with  small  roots  to  the  depth  of  three  ftet ; 
it  yields  abundantly  ;  the  time  of  drying,  which 
is  in  autumn,  in  the  month  of  October,  or  the 
last  of  September,  spade  up  the  earth,  take  the 

*  Thr  colouring  parts  of  the  gum-lacque  may  be  extract- 
ed by  comriiorj  river  water,  by  making  it  a  little  more  than 
lukewarni,  and  inclosing  the  powdered  lacque  in  a  coafsc 
woollen  bag. 


dyer's   COMPANION.  221 

ipots  trom  it,  assort  them  carefully,  and  wash 
tiiem  clean  in  cold  water  and  lay  them  to  dry  for 
manufacturing.  The  small  bright  and  young 
roots  that  have  no  bark  nor  pith,  are  for  the  gooa 
or  grape- madder. 

Of  all  the  reds  this  is  the  most  lasting,  when 
it  is  put  on  a  cloth  or  stuff'  that  is  throughly 
scoured,  then  prepared  with  the  salts  v/itli  which 
it  is  to  be  boiled  two  or  three  hours,  without 
\yhich,  this  red,  so  tenacious  after  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  subject,  would  scarcely  resist  more 
the  proofs  of  the  reds  than  any  other  ingredients 
of  the  false  dye.  This  is  a  proof  that  the  pores 
of  the  fibres  of  the  wool  ought  not  only  to  be 
well  scoured  frorn^  the  yolk  or  unctuous  tran- 
spiration of  the  animal,  which  may  have  remain- 
ed, notwithstanding  the  scouring  of  the  wool  af- 
ter the  common  manner  with  water  and  urine  ; 
but  it  is  also  necessary,  that  these  same  pores  be 
plaislered  inwardly  with  some  of  those  saltis 
which  are  called  hanl,  because  they  do  not  cal- 
cine in  the  air,  and  cannot  be  dissolved  by  rain, 
water,  or  by  the  moisture  of  the  air  in  rainy 
weather-  Such  is,  as  has  been  said  before,  the 
white  crude  tartar,  tiie  red  and  the  crystal  of  tar- 
tar, of  which,  according  to  common  custom, 
about  a  fourth  is  put  into  the  preparing  liquor, 
with  two-thirds  or  three- fourths  of  allum. 

The  best  madder  roots  come  generally  from 
Zealand,  \vhere  this  plant  is  cultivated  in  the 
islands  of  Tergocs,  Zerzee,  Sommerdyke,  and 
Thoolen.  That  from  the  first  of  these  islands  is 
esteemed  the  best;  the  soil  is  clay,  flit,  and 
somewhat  salt.  The  lands  that  are  deemed  the 
best  for  the  cultivation  of  this  plant  are  new 
lands,  that  only  served  for  pasture,  which  are  al- 
ways fresher  and  moister  than  others.  Thd 
Zealanders  are  beholden  to  the  refugees  of 
U      -  • 


22^  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

Flanders  for  the  cultivation  and  great  commerce 
of  this  root. 

It  is  known  in  trade  and  dying  under  the 
names  of  grape-madder,  bunch.madder,  &c.  It 
is  however  the  same  root ;  all  the  diiference  in 
regard  to  its  quality  is,  that  the  one  kind  con- 
tains pith  and  root,  and  the  other  has  the  small 
fibres  from  its  pricipal  root  adhering  to  it. 

Both  are  prepared  by  the  same  work,  which 
I  shall  not  relate  the  particulars  of  here,  as  it 
would  only  serve  to  lengthen  this  treatise  to  no 
purpose. 

They  choose  the  finest  roots  for  the  first  sort, 
drying  them  with  care,  grinding  them  and  sepa- 
rating the  rind  at  the  mill,  and  preserving  the 
middle  of  the  root  ground  in  hogsheads,  where 
it  reniains  for  two  or  three  years ;  for  after  this 
time,  it  is  better  for  dying  than  it  would  have 
been  coming  from  the  mill ;  for  if  madder  was 
not  kept  close  after  this  manner,  the  air  would 
spoil  it,  and  the  colour  would  be  less  bright.  It 
is  .it  first  yellow,  but  it  reddens  and  grows  brown 
by  age  ;  the  best  is  of  a  saffron  colour,  in  hard 
lumps,  of  a  strong  smell,  and  yet  not  disagree- 
able. It  is  also  cultivated  about  Lisle  in  Flan- 
ders, and  several  other  places  of  the  kingdom, 
where  it  was  found  to  grow  spontaneously. 

The  madders  which  are  made  use  of  in  tlie 
Levant  and  in  India,  for  the  dying  of  cottons, 
are  somewhat  different  from  the  kinds  used  in 
liurope,  it  is  named  chat  on  the  coast  of  Coro- 
mandel.  This  plant  thus  called,  grows  abun- 
dantly in  the  woods  on  the  coast  of  Malabar, 
and  this  chat  is  the  wild  sort-  The  cultiv  ted 
comes  from  Vasur  and  Tuccorin,  and  the  most 
esteemed  of  all  is  the  chat  of  Persia,  named 
dumas. 

Tley  also  gather  on  the  coast  of  Coromandel 
ihe  root  of  another  plant  called  ray  de  chaye^  on 


dyer's  companion.  223 

poot  of  colour,  and  which  was  thought  to  be  a 
kind  ofruhia  tinctorum^  but  is  the  root  of  a  kind 
oi gallium ^ore  alboy  as  it  appeared  by  observa- 
tions sent  from  India  in  1748.  It  has  a  long- 
slender  root,  which  dyes  cotton  of  a  tolerable 
handsome  red,  when  it  has  received -all  the 
preparations  previous  to  the  dj'^e. 

At  Kurder,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Smyrna^ 
and  in  the  countries  of  Akissar  and  of  Yordas, 
they  cultivate  another  kind  of  madder,  which  is 
called  in  the  country  chioc-boya  ekme  hazala. 
This  of  all  the  madders  is  the  best  for  the  red 
dye,  by  the  proofs  that  have  been  made  of  it, 
and  far  more  esteemed  in  the  Levant  than  the 
finest  Zealand  madder  the  Dutch  bring  there. 
This  madder  so  much  valued  is  called  by  the 
modern  Greeks  liznri^  and  by  the  Ax-ahsfoiioy.'^ 

There  is  another  kind  of  madder  in  Canada 
called  tyssa-voyana.  It  is  a  very  small  root, 
which  produces  pretty  near  the  same  effect  as 
the  European  madder. 

The  water  of  preparation  for  madder  red  is 
pretty  near  the  same  as  for  kermes,  that  is  com- 
posed of  allum  and  tartar.  The  dyers  do  not 
agree  as  to  the  proportions ;  but  the  best  appears 
to  be  four  ounces  of  allum  and  one  of  red  tartar 
to  each  pound  of  spun  wool,  and  about  one- 
twelfth  part  of  sour  water,  and  let  the  wool  boil 
in  it  for  two  hours.  If  it  is  spun  wool,  leave  it 
for  seven  or  eight  days,  that  it  may  be  well 
moistened  by  the  dissolution  of  these  salts  ;  and 
if  it  is  cloth,  finish  it  the  fourth  day. 

To  dye  wool  with  madder,  prepare  a  fresh 
liquor,  and  when  the  water  is  come  to  a  heat  to 

*  These  kinds  of  madders  giv^e  bviRhter  reds  than  tlie  best 
grape-madder  of  Zealand,  for  they  are  dyed  in  the  air  and 
not  in  a  stove*  The  madder  of  Lans^uedoc,  even  that  of 
Poitou,  succeeds  as  ^vell  as  that  of  lizari,  -when  it  is  dryed 
■without  fire. 


2Q4r  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

bear  the  hand,  put  in  half  a  pound  of  the  finest 
grape-madder  for  each  pound  of  wool ;  let  it  be 
well  raked  and  mixed  in  the  copper  before  the 
wool  goes  in,  keep  the  wool  in  an  hour,  during 
which  time  it  must  not  boil.*  Shades  from 
madder  are  obtained  after  the  manner  laid  down 
for  other  colours,  but  these  shades  are  little  used, 
except  in  a  mixture  of  several  colours. 

When  several  pieces  of  cloth  are  to  be  dyed 
at  once  in  madder  red,  the  operation  is  the  same, 
as  you  may  see  in  the  29th  receipt  in  the  pre- 
ceding for  red  with  madder,  only  augmenting 
the  ingredients  in  proportion  ;  and  let  it  be  re- 
marked that  in  small  operations  the  quantitj'  of 
ingredients  must  be  somewhat  greater  than  in 
great,  not  only  in  madder  red,  but  in  all  other 
colours. 

These  reds  are  never  so  beautiful  as  those  of 
the  kermes,  and  much  less  so  than  those  of  the 
lacque  or  cochineal,  but  they  cost  less,  and  are 
made  use  of  for  common  stuffs  whose  low  prices 
would  not  allow  a  dearer  dye.  Most  of  the  reds 
for  the  army  are  of  madder,  saddened  with  archil 
or  brazil,  (though  these  drugs  be  of  the  safe  dye) 
to  make  them  finer,  and  more  on  the  velvet, 
which  perfection  could  not  be  procured  to  them 
even  with  cochineal,  without  considerably  aug- 
menting the  price. 

I  have  already  said  that  madder  put  on  stuffs 
not  being  prepared  to  receive  it  by  the  allura 
and  tartar,  water,  did  in  fact  give  its  red  colour, 
but  that  which  it  dyed  was  blotted  and  not  last- 
ing, it  is  therefore  the  salts  that  secure  the  dye  ; 
this  is  common  to  all  other  colours  red  or  yellow, 
which  cannot  be  made  without  a  preparing  li- 
quor.  Now  the  question  is,  whether  these  act 
by  taking  off  the  remains  of  the  oily  and  fat 

*  If  madder  is  boiled,  its  red  becomes  obscure,  and  of  a 
brick  colour. 


dyer's    COMPAITION.  225 

transpiration  of  the  sheep,  or  whether  that  of  the 
two  salts,  particularly  that  which  even  cannot 
be  carried  by  luke-warm  water,  remains  to 
catch,  seize  and  cement  the  colouring  atom, 
opened  or  dilated  by  the  heat  of  water  to  receive 
it,  and  contracted  by  the  cold  to  retain  it. 

To  determine  which,  use  any  alkaline  salts, 
such  as  potash,  the  clarified  lays  of  oak-ashes, 
or  any  other  pure  lixivial  salt  instead  of  allum 
and  tartar,  put  in  a  due  proportion  so  as  not  to 
dissolve  the  wool,  and  afterwards  dip  the  stuff 
in  madder  liquor.  This  stuff  will  come  out 
coloured,  but  will  not  last,  even  boiling  water 
will  carry  off  three -fourths  of  the  colour.  Now 
it  cannot  be  said  that  a  fixed  alkaline  salt  is  un- 
fit to  extract  from  the  pores  of  the  wool  the 
yolk  or  fat  of  the  sheep,  since  lixivial  salts  are 
used  with  success  in  several  cases,  to  take  the 
grease  out  of  stuffs  of  what  kind  soever  they  be, 
which  water  alone  could  not  take  off.  It  is  also 
Well  known,  that  with  fats  foreign  to  the  stuff, 
and  an  alkaline  salt,  a  kind  of  soap  is  formed 
which  water  easily  carries  off. 

Again,  take  a  piece  of  stuff  dyed  in  madder 
r-ed,  according  to  the  usual  method,  boil  it  some 
time  in  a  solution  of  fixed  alkaline  salts,  a  small 
quantity  will  also  destroy  the  colour,  for,  the 
fixed  alkali,  attacking  the  small  atoms  of  the 
crystal  of  tartar,  or  crude  tartar,  which  lines  the 
pores  of  the  wool,  forms  a  soluble  tartar,  which 
water  dissolves  very  easily,  and  consequently 
the  pores  being  opened  in  the  hot  water  of  the 
experiment,  the  colouring  atom  came  out  with 
the  saline  atom  that  sheathed  it. 

This  stuff  being  washed  in  water,  the  remain, 
ing  red  colour  is  diluted,  and  a  colour  half  brown 
and  half  dirty  reniains.  If  instead  of  an  alkaline 
salt,  soap  is  substituted,  (which  is  an  alkaline  salt, 
mitigated  by  oil)  and  another  piece  of  cloth  dyed 
u  ^ 


226  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

also  in  madder,  be  boiled  for  a  few  minutes,  the 
red  vvill  become  finer,  because  the  alkali  which 
is  in  the  soap  being  sheathed  with  oil,  it  could 
not  attack  the  vegetable  acid,  and  the  boiling 
only  carried  oflf  the  colouring  parts  ill  stuck  to- 
gether, and  their  numbers  diminishing,  what 
remains  must  appear  deeper  or  clearer. 

I  must  also  add,  for  further  proof  of  the 
actual  existence  of  salts  in  the  pores  of  a  stuff 
prepared  with  allum  and  tartar,  before  dying  it 
with  madder,  that  more  or  less  tartar  gives  an 
infinite  variety  of  sliades  with  this  root  only  ; 
JFor  if  the  quantity  of  allum  be  diminished,  and 
that  of.  the  tartar  augmented,  a  cinnamon  will 
be  had,  and  even  if  nothing  but  tartar  alone 
be  put  into  the  liquor,  the  red  is  lost,  and  a 
deep  cinnamon  or  brown  root  colour  is  obtain- 
ed, though  of  a  very  good  dye  ;  for  the  crude 
tartar,  which  is  an  acid  salt,  has  so  much  dis- 
solved the  part  which  should  have  produced 
the  red  colour,  that  there  only  remained  a  very 
small  quantity,  with  the  ligneous  fibres  of  the 
root,  which,  like  all  otlier  common  roots,  does 
then  yield  but  a  brown  colour,  more  or  less 
deep  according  to  the  quantity  used-  I  have 
already  proved  that  the  acid  which  brightens 
the  red,  dissolves  them  if  too  much  is  used, 
and  divides  them  into  particles  so  extremely 
minute»  that  they  are  not  perceptible. 

If  in  the  place  of  tartar,  any  salt  which  is 
oasily  dissolved  be  put  with  the  allum  in  the  li- 
quor, to  prepare  tlie  stuff  for  the  madder  dye, 
such  as  salt  petre,  the  greater  part  of  the  mad- 
der red  becomes  useless,  it  disappears,  or  does 
not  stick  on,  and  nothing  is  got  but  a  very 
bright  cinnamon,  which  will  not  sufficiently 
stand  the  proof,  because  the  two  salts  used  in 
the  prepariijg  liquor  aue  not  of  the  hardness  ©f 
-the  tartar. 


dyer's  comtanion*  227 

Volatile  urinous  alkalis  which  are  obtained 
from  certain  plants,  such  as  the  pcrilla,  the  ar- 
chil of  the  Canaries,  and  otlier  mosses  or  li- 
chens, destroy  also  the  madder  red,  but  at  the 
same  time  communicate  another  to  it,  for  on 
experiment,  madder  prepared  after  the  manner 
of  archil  with  fermented  urine  and  quick  lime, 
produced  only  nut  colours,  but  which  neverthe- 
less are  lasting  ;  because  there  entered  into  the 
liquor  only  the  little  portion  of  urinous  vola- 
tile that  moistened  the  madder  which  the  boil- 
ing was  sufficient  to  evaporate,  and  besides, 
the  cloth  was  sufficiently  furnished  with  the 
salts  of  the  liquor  made  as  usual,  to  retain  the 
colouring  parts  of  the  dye. 

When  a  pure  red,  that  for  cochineal  an  ex- 
ample, is  laid  upon  a  cloth  first  dyed  in  blue, 
and  afterwards  prepared  with  the  liquor  of  tar- 
tar, and  allum  to  receive  and  retain  this  red,  a 
purple  or  violet  is  produced  according  to  the 
quantity  of  blue  or  red.  The  red  of  madder 
has  not  this  effect,  for  it  is  not  a  pure  red  like 
that  of  the  cochineal,  and  as  1  said  above,  it  is 
altered  by  the  brown  ligneous  fibres  of  its  root, 
and  makes  on  the  blue  a  chesnut  colour,  more 
or  less  deep  according  to  the  preceding  intensi- 
ty of  the  blue  first  laid  on.  If  this  chesnut  co- 
lour is  wanted  to  have  purple  cast,  a  little  cochi- 
neal must  be  added. 

In  order  t©  avoid  this  brown  of  the  root,  the 
dyers  who  make  the  best  reds  of  madder  take 
great  heed  to  use  the  liquor  of  madder  a  little 
more  than  luke-warm  ;  the  madder  tarnishes 
considerably  by  the  heat  of  the  water,  extract- 
ing the  piirticles  which  dye  brown,  and  unite 
themselves  with  the  red. 

This  inconvenieney  might  be  remedied,  if  al 
the  time  that  the  madder  root  is  fresh  a  means 
could  be  found  to  separate  fiom  the  rest  of  this 


^28  APPENDIX    TO   THE 

root  the  red  circle  which  is  underneath  its 
brown  pelicle,  and  which  surrounds  the  mid- 
dle pith  ;  but  this  work  would  augment  its 
price,  and  even  then  it  would  not  afford  so 
good  a  red  as  cochineal.  However,  it  might 
be  attempted  to  dye  cottons  red,  whost-  price 
might  bear  the  expenses  of  this  preparation. 

Madder  being  of  all  ingredients  the  cheapest 
of  any  that  dye  red  and  of  the  good  dye,  it  is 
mixt  with  others  to  diminish  the  price.  It  is 
with  madder  and  kermes  that  the  bastard  scar- 
lets of  grain  are  dyed,  otherwise  called  half- 
grain  scarlets,  and  with  madder  and  cochineal 
the  half-common  scarlets,  and  the  half-crimsons 
are  made. 

To  make  the  half-grain  scarlet,  the  water 
•f  preparation,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  operation 
is  to  be  performed  after  the  same  manner  as 
scarlet  made  of  the  grain  of  kermes,  or  the 
common  Venetian,  only  the  second  liquor  is 
composed  of  half  kermes  and  half  grape-mad- 
der. 

For  the  half-scarlet  and  flame-colour,  the 
composition  and  preparation  is  as  usual,  noth- 
ing but  pure  cochineal  being  put  in,  but  in 
the  reddening,  half  cochineal  and  half  madder 
is  used :  here  also  the  sylvestremay  be  made  use 
of,  for  after  having  made  the  preparation  with 
cochineal,  for  reddening,  use  half  a  pound  of 
cochineal,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sylvestre*  and 
one  pound  of  madder  instead  of  cochineal  alone. 

That  the  wool  and  stuffs  may  be  dyed  as 
equally  as  possible?  it  is  necessary  that  the  two 
kinds  of  cochineal  be  well  rubbed  or  sifted, 
as  also  the  madder,  with  which  they  must  be 
well  incorporated  before  they  are_  put  into  the 
liqiiof.  This  must  be  observed  in  all  colours 
wliere  several  ingredients  are  mixt  together* 
This  half- scarlet  is  Jfeushed  :like  the  conjmon 


byer's  companion.  229 

ijisarlet,  and  it  may  be  saddened  after  the  same 
manner,  either  with  boiling  water  or  allum. 

The  half-crimson  is  made  like  the  common 
crimson,  only  using  half  madder,  and  half  cochi- 
neal, the  cochineal  sylvestre  may  be  used 
here  also,  observing  only  to  retrench  half  of 
the  common  cochineal,  and  to  replace  it  with 
three  times  as  much  of  the  sylvestre.  If  a 
greater  quantity  of  the  sylvestre  was  used,  and 
more  of  the  other  taken  off,  the  colour  would 
not  be  so  fine.  Various  shades  may  be  pro- 
duced by  augmenting  or  lessening  the  maddet 
or  cochineal. 

Receifit   133cf.     For  Crimson. 

CRIMSON,  as  I  have  already  observed,  is 
the  natural  colour  of  the  cochineal,  or  rather, 
that  which  it  gives  to  wool  boiled  with  allum 
and  tartar,  which  is  the  usual  water  of  prepara- 
tion for  almost  all  colours.  This  is  the  method 
which  is  commonly  practised  for  spun  wool ; 
it  is  almost  the  same  for  cloths,  as  will  be  seen 
hereafter. 

For  each  pound  of  wool,  two  ounces  and  a 
half  of  allum,  and  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  white 
tartar,  are  put  into  the  copper.  When  the 
whole  boils,  the  wool  is  put  in,  well  stirred,  and 
left  to  boil  for  two  hours  ;  it  is  afterwards  taken 
out  slightly  wrung,  put  into  a  bag,  and  left  thus 
with  its  water,  as  for  the  scarlet  in  grain,  and  for 
all  other  colours- 

For  the  dye  a  fresh  liquor  is  made,  in  which 
three-fourths  of  an  ounce  of  cochineal  is  added 
for  each  pound  of  wool.  When  the  liquor  is  lit- 
tle more  than  luke- warm,  the  cochiHcal  is  put  in, 
and  when  it  begins  to  boil,  the  wool  is  cast  in, 
which  is  to  be  well  stirred  with  sticks ;  it  is  to 
remain  thus  for  an  hour  ;  when  taken  out, 
wrung  and  washed. 


*23l>  APPENDIX  TO  T1JJ3 

If  degrees  of  shades  are  required,  (whose 
names  are  merely  arbitrary)  proceed,  as  hasf 
been  already  related  for  the  scarlet,  using  but 
half  the  cochineal  at  first,  and  beginning  with  the 
lightest. 

The  beauty  of  crimson  consists  in  its  border- 
ing as  much  as  possible  on  the  grisdelin,  a  co- 
lour between  a  grey  and  a  violet-  I  made  sever- 
al trials  to  bring  crimson  to  a  higher  perfection 
than  most  dyers  have  hitherto  done,  and  indeed 
I  succeeded  so  as  to  make  it  as  fine  as  the 
false  crimson,  which  is  always  brighter  tlian  the 
fine. 

This  is  the  principle  on  which  I  worked.  As 
all  alkalis  sadden  cochineal,  I  tried  soap,  barilla, 
potash,  pearlash;  all  these  salts  brought  the 
crimson  to  the  shade  I  wanted,  but  at  the  same 
time,  they  tarnished  and  diminished  its  bright- 
ness. I  then  bethought  myself  to  make  use  of 
volatile  alkalis,  and  I  found  that  the  volatile 
spirit  of  salt  ammoniac  produced  a  very  good  ef- 
fect ;  but  this  spirit  instantly  evaporated,  and  a 
pretty  considerable  quantity  was  used  in  the 
liquor,  which  greatly  augmented  the  price  of  the 
dye. 

I  then  had  recourse  to  another  expedient  which 
succeeded  better,  the  expense  of  which  is  trifling. 
This  was  to  make  the  volatile  alkali  of  the  salt 
ammoniac  enter  into  the  liquor,  at  the  very  in- 
stant that  it  comes  out  of  its  basis ;  and  to  effect 
this,  after  my  crimson  was  made  after  the  usual 
manner,  I  passed  through  a  fresh  liquor,  in  which 
I  had  dissolved  a  little  of  the  salt  ammoniac. 
As  soon  as  the  liquor  was  a  little  more  than  luke- 
vi'arm,  I  flung  in  as  much  potash  as  I  had  before 
of  salt  ammoniac,  and  my  wool  immediately 
took  a  very  l^riJliant  colour. 

This  method  even  spares  the  cochineal ;  for 
this  new  liquor  makes  it  rise,  and  then  less  mify 


he  used  than  in  the  common  process ;  but  the 
greatest  part  of  dyers,  even  the  most  eminent^ 
sadden  their  crimsons  with  archil,  a  drug  of  the 
false  dye. 

Very  beautiful  crimsons  are  also  made  by 
boiling  the  wool  as  for  the  common  scarlet,  and 
then  boiling  it  in  a  second  liquor,  with  two 
ounces  of  allum  and  one  ounce  of  tartar,  for  each 
pound  of  wool,  leaving  it  one  hour  in  the  liquor. 
A  fresh  liquor  is  then  prepared,  in  which  six 
drachms  of  cochineal  is  put  for  every  pound  of 
wool.  ^  After  it  has  remained  an  hour  in  this  li- 
quor, it  is  taken  out,  and  passed  immediately 
through  a  liquor  of  barilla  and  salt  ammoniac. 
By  this  method,  gradations  of  very  beautiful 
crimson  shades  are  made  by  diminishing  the 
quantity  of  the  cochineal.  It  is  to  be  c>ibserved, 
that  in  this  process  there  are  but  six  drachms  of 
cochineal  to  dye  each  pound  of  wool,  because  in 
the  first  liquor  a  drachm  and  a  half  of  cochineal 
is  used  for  each  pound.  It  is  also  necessary  to 
remark,  that,  to  sadden  these  crimsons,  the  li- 
quor of  the  alkaline  salt  and  salt  ammoniac  be 
not  made  too  hot,  because  the  separation  of  the 
volatile  spirit  of  this  last  salt  would  be  tpo  quick, 
and  the  crystal  of  tartar  of  the  first  liquor  would 
lose  its  proper  effect  by  being  changed,  as  I 
have  already  said  into  a  soluble  tartar. 

The  same  operation  may  be  done  by  using 
one  part  of  the  cochineal  sylvestre  instead  of  the 
fine  cochineal,  and  the  colour  is  not  less  beauti- 
ful, for  commonly  four  parts  of  sylvestre  have 
not  more  effect  in  dying  than  one  part  of  fine 
cochineal.  The  sylvestre  may  also  be  used  in 
dying  scarle  ,  but  with  great  precaution ;  it 
should  only  be  used  in  bastard  scarlets  and  half- 
crimsons.  I  shall  speak  of  this  when  I  treat  of 
these  colours  in  particular. 

When  a  scarlet  is  spotted  or  spoiled  in  the 


232  APPENDIX    TO   THE 

operation  by  some  unforeseen  accident,  or  even 
when  the  dye  has  failed,  the  common  remedy  is 
to  make  it  a  crimson,  and  for  that  purpose,  it 
is  dipt  in  a  liquor  where  about  two  pounds  of 
allum  are  added  for  each  hundred  weight  of 
wool.  It  is  immediately  plunged  in  this  liquor, 
and  left  there  until  it  has  acquired  the  shade  of 
the  crimson  desired. 

JRecei/it  ISii/t.    For  Languedoc  Crimson. 

I  shall  now  shew  the  method  they  follow  in 
Languedoc  to  make  a  very  beautiful  sort  of 
crimson,  or  the  cloths  exported  to  the  Levant, 
but  which  is  not  so  much  saddened  as  that 
which  I  have  just  spoken  of,  and  which  resem- 
bles much  more  the  Venetian  scarlet.  For  five 
pieces  of  cloth,  the  pieces  are  25  yards  when  mill, 
ed  of  broad  cloth  one  and  a  half  yards  wide  the 
liquor  is  prepared  as  usual,  putting  bran  if  ne- 
cessary. When  it  is  more  than  lukewarm,  ten 
pounds  of  sea-salt  are  put,  instead  of  crystal  of 
tartar,  and  when  it  is  ready  to  boil,  twentj^- seven 
pounds  of  the  scarlet  composition,  made  after 
the  manner  of  carcassine  already  described,  are 
poured  in,  and  without  adding  cochineal  the 
cloth  is  passed  through  this  liquor  for  two 
hours,  keeping  it  always  turning  with  the  wynch, 
and  continually  boiling.  It  is  afterwards  taken 
out,  aired  and  washed  ;  then  a  fresh  liquor  is 
made,  with  eight  pounds  and  three-quarters  of 
cochineal  powdered  and  sifted,  and  when  it  is 
ready  to  boil,  twenty-one  pounds  of  composi- 
tion are  added;  the  cloth  is  boiled  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour  with  the  common  precau- 
tions, after  which  it  is  taken  out,  aired  and  wash- 
ed :  It  is  of  a  very  fine  crimson,  but  very  little 
saddened  ;  if  it  is  required  to  be  more  sadden- 
ed, a  greater  quantity  of  allum  is  put  into  the 


dyer's  companion.  233 

first  liquor  of  preparation,  and  in  the  s<  cond 
less  of  the  composition,  the  sea-salt  is  also 
added  to  this  second  liquor  ;  a  little  practice  in 
this  method  will  soon  teach  the  dyer  to  make 
all  the  shades  that  can  properly  be  derived  from 
rim  son. 

^Vhenever  cochineal  has  been  used,  there  is 
found  at  the  bottom  of  the  reddening  liqi;or  a 
quantity  of  very  browm  sediment,  v/hich  is 
flung  away  with  the  liquor  as  useless.  I  exam- 
ined it  and  found,  that  the  liquor  for  the  red- 
dening of  scarlet  contained  a  precipitated  calx 
of  tin  :  I  united  this  metal  with  a  great  deal  of 
trouble;  the  remaining  parts  of  this  sediment 
are  the  dross  of  tiic  white  tartar,  or  of  the  cream 
of  tartar,  united  with  the  gross  parts  of  the  bo- 
dies of  the  cochineal,  which  is,  as  has  already 
been  said,  a  small  insect  I  waslied  these  little 
animal  parts  in  cold  \vater,  and,  by  shaking 
this  water,  I  collected,  with  a  small  sieve,  what 
the  agitation  caused  to  raise  on  the  surface. 

After  this  manner  I  separated  these  light 
parts  from  the  earthy  and  metallic  ;  I  dried 
tliem  separately,  then  levigated  them  with 
equal  weight  of  fresh  crystal  of  tartar  ;  I  boil, 
ed  a  portion  with  a  little  allum,  and  put  in  a 
pattern  of  white  cloth,  which  boiled  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour,  at  tlie  end  of  which  it  was 
ciyed  of  a  very  beautiful  crimson. 

This  experiment  having  convinced  me,  that 
by  powdering  and  sifting  the  cochineal  as  is 
commonly  practised,  all  the  profit  that  mig;;t 
be  extracted  from  this  dear  drug  is  not  obtain- 
ed, I  thought  proper  to  communicate  this  dis- 
covery to  the  dyers,  that  they  might  avail  them- 
selves of  it  by  the  method  following. 

Take  one  ounce  of  cochineal  powdered  and 
sifted  as  usual ;  mix  with  it  a  quarter  of  its 
nveight  of  very  white  cream  of  tartar  very  crys^ 


254  APPENDIX    TO  THE- 

tallne  and  very  airy  ;  put  the  whole  on  a  hard 
levigating  stone,  and  levigate  this  mixture  till  it 
is  reduced  to  an  impalpable  powder  ;  make  use 
of  this  cochineal  thus  prepared  in  the  liquor, 
and  in  the  reddening,  subtracting  from  the  cream 
of  tartar,  which  is  to  be  used  in  the  liquor,  the 
sniall  quantity  before  used  with  the  cocliineal. 
\Vhat  is  put  to  the  reddening,  although  mixed 
\yith  a  fourth  of  the  same  salt,  does  not  preju- 
dice its  colour,  it  even  appeared  to  me  that  it 
was  more  solid.  Those  that  will  follow  this 
method  will  find  that  there  is  about  a  fourth 
more  profit  to  be  obtained  by  it. 

Receipt  l3Sth.     The  JVatural  Crimson  in  Grain, 

In  proportion  for  every  poiuid  of  cloth  or 
other  things,  take  two  ounces  of  tartar  pure,  and 
two  ounces  of  allum  ;  boil  them  with  the  goods 
an  hour  and  a  half ;  then  rince  the  goods  very 
well  from  the  boiling.  The  kettle  must  be  fill- 
ed again  ^vithxlear  water  and  a  few  handfuls  of 
bran  put  in,  in  order  to  take  out  the  filth  of  the 
water,  as  well  as  to  soften  it.  Scum  the  scurf 
oif  when  it  begins  to  boil,  and  put  in  an  ounce 
of  well  powdered  grain,  with  one  drachm  of  red 
arsenic  and  one  spoonful  of  burnt  wine  lees  ; 
this  gives  a  pretty  lustre  ;  then  wash  and  rince 
it  well,  and  you  have  most  beautiful  colour.    ^ 

Receipt  \o6th.  Scarlet  ;  of  the  dying  qfjlock  or  goat*-e 
hair. 

THERE  are  two  preparations  very  different 
one  from  the  other  in  the  dying  of  flock:  the 
fir^t  is  with  madder,  and  belongs  to  the  great 
and  good  dye ;  the  second  is  to  dissolvt  it  and 
make  use  of  it  ;  this  belongs  to  tht  lesser  dye. 
The  dymg  with  flock  was  formerly  permitted 
in  the  good  dye,  but  was  rather  on  account  of 


DYER^S    COMPANION.  23$ 

its  being  extracted  from  madder,  than  by  any 
experiment  that  had  been  made  concerning  its 
durability.  I  tried  it  witli  great  attention,  and 
found  it  beyond  any  doubt  that  there  is  no  co- 
lour that  resists  the  air  less.  It  is  certainly  for 
this  reason  that  it  was  restrained  to  the  lesser 
dye  in  the  new  regulation  of  France  in  1737. 
Yet,  as  by  the  same  regulation,  it  is  not  permit- 
ted to  the  dyers  of  the  lesser  dye  to  use  madder, 
tior  even  to  keep  it  in  their  houses  ;  it  has  been 
enacted,  that  only  tlie  dyers  of  the  great  dye 
should  be  suffered  to  madder  flock,  and  those 
of  the  lesser  dye  to  dissolve  and  use  it. 

To  madder  the  flock  or  goat's  hair,  four 
pounds  of  either  pf  them  is  cut  and  well  sepa- 
rated, that  the  dye  may  penetrate  the  better. 
It  is  boiled  two  hours  in  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  sour  water  ;  then  it  is  drained  for  an  hour, 
and  put  into  a  middling  copper,  half  filled 
with  water,  with  four  pounds  of  roach  ailum, 
two  pounds  of  red .  tartar,  and  one  pound  of 
madder.  The  whole  is  boiled  for  six  hoursy 
putting  in  hot  water  as  the  liquor  wastes  ;  it  is 
left  all  night  and  next  day  in  this  liquor ;  the 
third  day  it  is  taken  out  and  drained  in  a  biisk- 
et.  S;)me  dyer^  let  it  remain  eight  days,  but 
it  often  happens  that  by  this  delay  in  a  copper 
vessel  it  is  tarnished  by  the  liquors  corroding 
a  part  of  the  copper ;  a  middling  copper  is 
then  filled  to  the  two- thirds  with  half  sour  wa- 
ter, and  half  common  water  and  when  the  li- 
quor ib  ready  to  boil,  eight  pounds  of  madder, 
well  cut  ^'id  crushed  between  the  hands,  is  ad- 
ded. When  the  madder  is  well  mixed  in  the 
liquor,  four  pounds  of  flock  or  hair  is  put  in  and 
boiled  for  six  hours  ;  it  is  then  well  washed,  and 
the  next  day  it  is  maddered  a  second  time  after 
the  same  nianner,  only  putting  in  four  pounds 
of  madder  instead  of  eight,  which  were  Ixfore. 


■2S6  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

used.  After  this  second  maddering,  it  is  well 
washed  and  dried  ;  it  is  then  almost  black  and 
fit  for  use. 

It  appears  by  this  operation,  th-it  four  pounds 
of  flock  or  h-nr  is  loaded  with  thirteen  pounds 
"if  tile  dye  of  madder,  yet  there  still  remains 
some  dye  in  the  liquor,  which  is  then  called  an 
old  maddering,  and  which  is  preserved  for  use 
on  certain  occasions,  as  in  tobacco,  cinnamon 
colour,  and  several  others. 

When  the  flock  is  thus  maddered  by  the  dyer 
of  the  great  dye  he  sells  it  to  dyers  of  the  lesser, 
who  have  then  the  liberty  to  dissolve  and  use 
it ;  this  is  the  common  method,  which  has  ma- 
ay  difficulties,  and  is  knonn  but  to  few  dyers. 
Madder  is  hereby  made  fiine. 

Alxiut  half  an  hour  after  seven  in  the  morn- 
ing six  puis  full  of  clear  wafer  are  put  into 
a  middling  copper,  and  when  the  water  is  luke- 
warm, five  pounds  of ptarlash  are  put  in:  the 
wliole  is  boiled  till  eleven,  and  the  liquor 
is  then  considerably  diminished,  so  as  to  be 
held  in  a  lesser  copper,  into  w  hich  it  is  emptied, 
©bserving  first  to  let  the  dregs  of  the  pearlash 
subside,  that  none  but  the  clear  may  be  used. 

A  pail  full  of  this  liquor  is  afterwards  put 
into  the  middling  copper,  having  first  scoured 
it  well,  and  a  little  fire  made  under  it ;  the  four 
pounds  of  maddered  flock  are  scattered  in  by 
•  Icgrces,  and  at  the  same  time  a  little  of  the 
lukewarm  and  saline  liquor  of  the  small  copper 
is  added  to  keep  down  the  boiling,  which  rises 
irom  time  to  tirne  to  the  top  of  the  copper,  in 
which  the  operation  is  performing. 

When  all  the  flock  and  the  liquor  of  the  little 
copper  are  put  into  the  middling  one,  a  pail  full 
of  clear  water  is  put  on  the  dregs  of  the  peariash 
remaining  in  the  litde  copper.  This  water 
^"erves  to  fill  the  middling  one  as  the  liquor  in  it 


dyer's  companion.  237 

Evaporates.    All  this  flock  melts,  or  is  dissolved 
by  the  action  of  the  pearlash,  and  after  the  first 
half  hour,  not  the  least  hair  is  to  be  perceived. 
The  liquor  is  then  of  a  very  deep  red.     The 
^vhole  is  then  boiled  without  any  addition,  till 
three  in  the  afternoon,  that  the  whole  dissolution 
of  the  flocks  may  be  the  more  exactly  perform- 
ed.    Then  a  stick  is  placed  upon  the  copper, 
and  upon  this  stick  is  placed  a  pail  of  fermented 
urine,  in  which  pail  a  small  hole  has  been  pre- 
viously made  towards  its  lower  part,  and  a  lit- 
tle straw  put  into  it,  that  the  urine  may  very 
slowly  run  into  the  copper ;  whilst  it  is  running, 
the  liquor  is  made  to  boil  strongly,  and  this 
urine  makes  good  what  may  be  lost  by  evapora- 
tion.    This  operation  continues  five  hours,  dur- 
ing which  time  three  pails  full  of  urine  are  dis- 
charged into  the  copper,  being  made  to  run  fas- 
ter when  the  boil  is  stronger,  than  when  moder- 
ate.    It  is  here  to  be  observed,  that,  on  account 
of  the  small  quantity  of  flock  in  the  experiment 
which  I  lay  down  here,  five  pounds  only  of 
pearlash  are  ordered  ;  for  when  thirty  pounds  of 
flock  are  dissolved  at  one  time  which  is  the 
common  custom  of  the  French  dyers,  they  put 
twelve  ounces  of  pearlash  to  each  pound  of  flock. 
During  the  whole  time  of  this  operation,  a 
strong  volatile  smell  of  urine  is  emitted,   and 
there  swims  on  the  surface  of  the  liquor  a  brown 
scum,  but  much  more  so  after  the  addition  of 
the  urine.     The  liquor  is  known  to  be  suffi- 
ciently done  when  this  rises  no  more,  and  that  the 
boil  rises  but  gently,  that  is  what  happened  to 
the  operation  now  related,  at  eight  in  the  evening. 
The  fire  is  then  raked  out,  the  copper  covered, 
and  thus  left  to  the  next  day.     Patterns  had 
been  taken  at  different    times  of  the   colours 
of  the  liquor  from  three  to  eight  in  the  evening, 
by  dippmg  in  small  pieces  of  paper  :  the  first 
X2 


:238  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

\ycre  very  brown,  and  they  became  continually 
lishtcr,  and  they  uniied  tlKniselves  niorc  and 
m^^e,  in  proportion  as  the  volatile  part  of  the 
iirifie  acted  on  the  coiourinp  parts  of  the  liquor. 

Nothing  now  remained  but  to  dye  the  wool 
in  tlie  hqiior  thus  prepared,  and  which  is  called 
nielthig  ot'flcx'k  ;  this  is  tht-  easiest  work  be- 
l  i.ging  to  the  dser.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  be- 
fore the  d\  ing  is  begun,  a  little  piece  of  very 
clean  roach  allum  is  put  in,  and  the  copper  is 
well  raked  to  melt  it.  As  this  liquor  which  was 
in  the  middling  copper  had  been  covered  the 
whole  night,  and  the  fire  had  not  been  put  out, 
the  liquor  was  still  so  hot  as  not  to  suffer  the 
hand-  The  clearest  was  taken  out  and  brought 
into  a  small  copper,  widi  a  sufficient  quantity 
oflukevv'arm  water,  some  wool  dyed  yellow 
with  u  eld  was  dipped  in  it ;  it  immediately  be- 
ciime  of  a  fine  orange,  bordering  on  the  flame 
colour,  that  is  of  the  colour  called  nacaref,  and 
known  to  the  dyers  by  the  name  of  nacaret  of 
flock,  because  it  is  commonly  made  with  mdted 
flock. 

Twenty  hanks  of  white  wool  were  dipped  one 
after  the  other  in  the  same  liquor,  beginning  by 
riiose  that  were  to  have  the  deepest  ground,  and 
leaving  them  longer  or  shorter  in  the  liquor  ac- 
cording to  the  shade  required.  An  assortment 
was  made  after  this  manner  from  the  nacaret,  or 
bright  orange  red,  to  the  cherry  colour.  It 
ought  to  be  observed,  that  in  proportion  as  the 
liquor  was  consumed,  fresh  was  taken  from  the 
middle  sized  copper,  great  care  being  taken  not 
to  stir  the  sediment  at  the  bottom  ;  a  little  fire 
was  also  kept  under  the  small  copper,  to  keep 
the  liquor  always  in  the  same  degree  of  heat. 
The  wool  is  thus  dipped  until  the  whole  liquor 
is  used,  and  all  tlie  colour  drawn  out.  But  the 
^irr'it^r  colours  could  not  be  dyed  in  it;  for 


dyer's  companion.  239 

when  the  colour  of  the  hquor  is  once  weakened, 
as  it  ought  to  be  fcM*  these  colours,  it  is  generally 
loaded  with  filth,  which  would  take  ofl'  the 
brightness  required  in  these  shades. 

The  foUowhigis  the  method  of  making  shades 
lighter  than  the  cherry  colour.  A  copper  is 
filled  with  clear  water,  and  five  or  six  hanks  of 
wool  dyed  of  the  deepest  dye  from  the  flock, 
that  is,  from  the  shade  that  immediately  follows 
the  nacaret,  are  put  in.  As  soon  as  the  water 
boils,  it  takes  out  all  the  colour  the  wool  had, 
and  it  is  in  this  fresh  liquor  that  the  other  wool 
that  is  to  be  dyed  is  dipped,  from  the  cherry  co- 
lour to  the  palest  flesh  colour,  observing  always 
to  begin  by  the  deei^est  shades. 

Most  of  the  dyers  who  do  not  know  how  to 
melt  the  flock,  or  who  will  not  give  themselves 
that  trouble,  buy  some  pounds  of  this  scarlet  of 
flock,  which  they  use  after  this  manner,  to  make 
all  the  lighter  shades,  which,  as  has  been  said, 
is  done  with  much  ease.  This  operation  shows 
what  little  dependaiice  can  be  put  on  the  solidi- 
ty of  a  colour  that  passes  so  quickly  in  boiling 
water*  And  in  f:ict,  it  is  one  of  the  worst  co- 
lours there  is  in  dying,  and  on  that  account  the 
new  regulation  has  taken  it  from  the  great  dye, 
and  permits  in  the  lesser  for  the  reason  above 
mentioned. 

Thus  a  very  bad  colour  may  be  had  from  an 
ingredient  which,  of  all  those  th?,t  are  used  in 
dying,  is  perhaps  the  best  and  the  roost  dura- 
ble ;  yet  when  this  hair,  dyed  witii  all  the  ne- 
cessary precautions  to  insure  the  colour  as  much 
as  possible,  comes  to  be  dissolved  or  melted  in 
a  liquor  of  pearlash,  its  colour,  by  acquiring-a 
new  lustre,  loses  all  its  solidity,  and  can  only  be 
ranked  in  the  numbtr  of  the  falsest  dyes. 

It  may  appear  that  tl>e  little  solidity  of  this 
Colour  proceeded  from  the  wool  having  no  pre- 


240  APPENDIX  TO   THE 

paration,  and  retaining  no  salt  before  its  being 
dipped  in  the  dissolved  flock  ;  but  I  found  that 
this  was  not  the  cause  ;  for  I  dipped  in  this  li- 
quor wool  boiled  as  usual,  and  other  wool  dif- 
ferently prepared,  without  finding  that  the  colour 
of  the  latter  had  acquired  any  more  solidity  ; 
the  lustre  was  less,  that  is,  it  came  out  more 
saddened  than  the  wool  that  had  been  dyed  in 
it  without  any  preparation. 

Though  I  have  said  that  wool  receives  no 
preparation  before  its  being  dyed  in  a  dissolution 
of  flock,  it  is  nevertheless  necessary  to  sulphur 
tliose  that  are  to  make  clear  shades,  for  that  gives 
them  a  great  brightness  and  lustre,  as  the  dis- 
solved flock  is  applied  on  a  ground  a  great  deal 
whiter  than  it  would  be  without  the  vapour  of 
the  sulphur,  which  cleanses  it  of  all  its  filth. 
The  same  thing  is  done  for  the  light  blues,  and 
for  some  other  colours ;  but  this  operation  is 
seldom  made  use  of  but  for  wool  intended  for 
samples  or  tapestry. 

The  Theory  of  the  Dissolution  of  Flock. 

The  reason  why  from  an  ingredient,  such  as 
the  root  of  madder,  perishable  colours  nre  pro- 
duced from  dissolved  flock,  is  not  difiicult  to 
assign.  In  the  first  operation  of  maddering  the 
flock,  the  red  of  the  madder  was  fixed  in  the  hair 
by  the  preparation  of  allum  and  tartar  as  much 
as  possible,  but  as  it  is  overloaded  with  this 
colour,  it  is  easy  to  conceive  that  the  superfluous 
colouring  atoms  being  only  applied  on  those 
which  already  filled  the  pores  of  this  hair,  these 
alone  are  really  retained  in  the  pores,  and  are 
cemented  by  the  salts.  The  hair  thus  reddened 
by  the  madder  so  as  to  become  almost  black, 
would  lose  a  great  deal  of  the  intensity  of  its 
colour,  if  it  was  boiled  in  any  liquor,  was  it  even 


dyer's  eoMPANio>r.  241 

common  water ;  but  to  this  water,  pearlash  is 
added  in  equal  weight  with  the  flock  already 
dyed,  T\hich  is  to  be  melted  in  it ;  consequently 
there  is  a  very  strong  lixivium  of  fixed  alkalii^ 
salts  made.    I  have  said  that  very  strong  alkaline 
lies  destroy  the  natural  texture  of  almost  ail 
animal,,substances,  as  also  gums  and  resins  ;  in 
short,  that  an  alkaline  salt  is  their  dissolvent. 
In  the  present  operation,  the  lixivium  or  the 
pearlash  is  very  concentrated,  and  very  acrid, 
and  const  quently  in  a  state  to  melt  the  hair, 
which  is  an  animal  substance,  which  it  does  very 
quickly,  and  with  a  strong  fermentation,  which 
shows  itself  by  the  strong  and  violent  elevation 
of  the  liquor :  consequently  it  destroys  the  nat- 
ural texture  of  each  of  these  hairs,  and  the  sides 
of  the  pores  being  at  the  same  time  broken  and 
reduced  to  very  minute  parts,  these  sides  having 
neither  consistence  nor  spring  to  retain  these 
salts,  and  the  colouring  particles  that  were  stick- 
ing to  them.     Therefore  the  animal  particles  of 
the  hair,  the  colouring  parts  of  the  madder,  the 
saline  parts  of  the  liquor,  and  the  alkali  of  the 
pearlash,  are  all  confounded  together,  and  form 
a  new  mixture,  which  cannot  afford  a  lasting 
dye,  because  from  these  saline  parts  mixed  to- 
gether theroicannot  be  formed  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  salts  capable  of  ci'ystalization,  and  pro- 
ducing moleculas,  which  can  r<  sist  cold  water 
and  the  rays  of  the  sun.     In  short,  it  could  not 
form   a  tartar  of  vitriol,  because  the  alkaline 
salt  is  in  too  great  a  proportion. 

To  rouse  the  deep  and  overloaded  dye  of  the 
madder  first  applied  on  the  flock,  and  after  con- 
founded by  the  melting  of  this  hair  in  the  mix- 
ture already  spoken  of,  putrified  urine  is  added 
in  a  considerable  quantity  ;  this  is  a  further  ob- 
stacle to  crystalization  ;  consequently  wool  not 
IJrepared  by  other  salts,  and  dipped  in  a  liquor 


242  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

thus  composed,  can  only  be  covered  by  a  super- 
ficial colour,  which  finds  no  prepared  pores,  or 
any  thing  sahne  in  those  pores,  which  may 
cement  the  colouring  atoms  ;  therefore  such  a 
dye  must  quit  its  subject  on  the  least  efturt  of 
what  nature  soever  it^  be. 

But  wool  prepared  by  the  liquor  of  tartar  and 
allum,  does  not  take  a  more  lasting  colour,  in 
the  liquor  of  the  melted  flock,  th:in  wool  not 
prepared  by  these  salts ;  for  a  liquor  which 
abounds  n'ith  fixed  alkaline  salts  attacks  the  tar- 
tar left  of  the  preceding  preparation  in  the  pores 
of  the  wool.  This  tartar  changes  its  nature,  and 
from  behig  hard  to  dissolve,  as  it  was  before, 
it  becomes  a  soluble  tartar,  that  is,  a  salt  that 
dissolves  very  easily  in  the  coldest  water. 

It  may  perhaps  be  objected,  that  particles  oP 
allum  remain  in  the  pores  of  the  prepared  wool, 
that  from  these  particles  of  allum,  as  well  as 
from  a  portion  of  the  same  salt  which  is  put  into 
the  liquor,  reddened  by  the  melting  of  the  fiock, 
the  alkali  of  the  pearlash  must  form  a  tartar  or 
vitriol,  which,  according  to  my  principles,  ought 
to  secure  the  dye. 

To  this  I  answer,  that  the  urine  hinders  the 
combination  of  these  two  salts,  which  is  neces- 
sary for  the  formation  of  tlie  tartar  <if  vitriol ;  if 
even  this  hindrance  did  not  exist,  the  quantity  of 
this  salt,  which  I  have  named  hard  in  another 
place,  could  not  be  sufficient  to  cement  the 
colour  in  the  pores  of  the  wool,  or  put  them  in  a 
state  to  retain  the  colouring  atoms.  Further, 
the  sharpness  of  the  alkaline  salts  in  this  liquor, 
which  is  capable  of  entirely  dissolving  the  hair 
boiled  in  it,  would  equally  be  able  to  dissolve 
the  wool,  were  it  boiled  as  the  flock  was.  But 
yet,  though  a  degree  of  heat  is  not  given  to  the 
liquor,  vyhich  would  be  necessary  for  this^  total 
de§truction,  it  is  easily  conceived,  that  if  the 


dyer's  companion.  243 

sum  of  the  destroying  action  is  not  the  same;, 
at  least  a  part  exists  wliich,  is  still  sufficient  to 
corrode  the  sides  of  the  pores  of  the  wool,  to 
enlarge  them  greadjr,  and  to  render  them  unfit 
to  retain  the  colouring  atoms ;  to  this  may  be 
added,  that  the  hair  is  melted  in  the  liquor,  and 
consequently  mixed  with  the  colouring  parts 
of  the  madder  in  a  great  quantity  ;  that  these 
are  heterogenious  parts,  which  prevent  the  im- 
mediate contract  of  the  same  colouring  parts, 
and  that  from  all  these  obstacles  taken  together, 
the  colour  must  be  rendered  less  durable  and 
less  holding  than  any  of  the  lesser  dye.  This, 
experience  sufficiently  proves,  for  if  a  skain  oF 
red  wool  dyed  in  this  manner,  be  put  into  iDoil- 
ing  water,  the  colour  will  be  taken  off  entirely. 

Jieceipt    \37lh.     Scarlet  of  Jrchil^   and  the  manner   of 
using  it, 

ARCHIL  is  a  soft  paste,  of  a  deep  red, 
which  being  simply  diluted  in  liot  water  affords 
a  number  of  different  shades ;  there  are  two 
kinds,  the  most  common  one  which  is  not  so 
good,  is  generally  made  in  Auvergne,  from 
a  lichen  or  sort  of  moss,  very  common  on 
the  rocks  •f  that  province  :  it  is  known  under 
the  name  of  Archil  of  Auvergne,  or  Land  Ar- 
chil. The  other  is  a  great  deal  finer  and  bet- 
ter ;  it  is  called  the  Arcliil  of  Herb,  or  of  the 
Canaries,  or  Cape  Verd  Archil  ;  it  is  prepared 
in  France,  EngUind,  Holland,  and  other  places. 

The  workmen  who  prep  < re  this  herb  archil, 
make  a  secret  of  the  preparation,  but  the  par- 
ticulars may  be  found  well  related  in  a  treatise 
oiM.  i^ierre  Antcine  Micheliy  which  bears  for 
title .,  Nova  Plaiitarum  OtnerUy  therefore  I  shall 
not  here  give  die  method  (>f  preparing  it. 

When  a  dyer  wants  to  assure  himself  tliat  the 


244  APPENDlJt  TO  THE 

archil  will  produce  a  beautiful  effect,  be  must, 
extend  a  piece  of  this  paste  on  the  back  of  his 
band  and  let  it  dry,  afterwards  washing  his 
hand  with  cold  water.  If  this  spot  remains 
with  only  a  little  of  its  colour  discharged,  he 
may  udge  the  archil  to  be  good,  and  be  assur. 
ed  it  will  succeed. 

I  shall  now  give  the  method  of  using  the 
prepared  archil,  but  I  shall  only  treat  of  that  of 
the  Canaries,  and  just  mention  the  difference 
between  it  and  that  of  Auvergne-  A  copper  is 
filled  with  clear  water,  and  when  it  begins  to 
be  lukewarm,  the  proper  quantity  of  archil  is 
put  in  and  well  stirred  :  the  liquor  is  afterwards 
heated  almost  to  boiling,  and  the  wool  or  stuffs 
are  dipped  without  any  preparation,  only  keep- 
ing tho^e  longer  in  that  are  to  be  deeper. 

When  the  archil  yields  no  more  colour  at  this 
degree  of  heat,  the  liquor  is  made  to  boil  to  ex- 
tract the  remainder;  but  if  it  is  archil  of  Au- 
vergne, the  colours  drawn  after  this  manner 
will  be  sadder  ihan  the  first,  on  account  of  the 
boiling  of  the  liquor.  The  Canary  archil,  on 
the  contrary,  will  lose  nothing  of  its  brightness, 
if  even  the  liquor  boiled  from  the  beginning. 
This  last,  though  dearer,  yields  much  more  dye, 
so  that  there  is  more  profit  in  making  use  of  it, 
besides  its  superiority  over  the  other  in  beauty 
and  goodness  of  colour.  The  natural  colour 
which  is  drawn  both  from  the  one  and  the  other 
archil,  is  a  fine  gris  de-lm,  bordering  on  the 
violet.  The  violet,  the  pansy,  the  amaranth, 
and  several  like  colours  are  obtained  from  it, 
by  giving  the  stuff  a  ground  of  blue  more  or 
less  deep  before  it  is  passed  through  the  archil. 
It  must  here  be  observed,  that  to  have  the 
clear  shades  of  these  colours  as  bright  as  they 
ought  to  be,  the  wool  ought  to  be  sulphured,  as 
was  s.aid  in  the  foregoing  receipt  either  before  it 


is  dipped  in  the  archil,  for  the  gris-de-Un,  or  bc- 
f^x-e  it  is  dyed  blue  for  the  violet,  and  other  like 
colours. 

This  way  of  using  archil  is  the  simplest,  but 
the  colours  that  proceed  from  it  are  not  lasting. 
It  may  be  imagined  that  the  colours  would  be 
better  by  giving  a  preparation  to  the  wool  pre- 
vious to  its  being  dyed,  as  is  practised  in  the 
great  dye,  when  madder,  cochineal,  weld,  &c- 
are  used ;  but  experience  shews  the  contrary^ 
and  I  have  used  the  archil  on  wool  boiled  in  al- 
lum  and  tartar,  which  did  not  resist  the  air  more- 
than  that  which  had  received  no  preparation. 

Tiiere  is  notwithstanding,  a  method  of  using 
the  Canary  archil,  and  giving  it  almost  as  much 
duration  as  the  most  part  of  the  ingredients  of 
the  good  dye  ;  but  then  its  natural  colour  oigris- 
de-iin  is  taken  off,  and  it  acquires  a  red  or  scarlet., 
or  rather  a  colour  known  imder  the  name  of 
bastard  scarlet.  The  colours  of  the  kermes  or 
Venetian  scarlet,  and  several  other  shades  that 
border  on  the  red  and  the  orange,  may  also  be 
drawn  from  it.  These  colours  are  extracted 
from  the  archil  by  the  means  of  acids,  and  all 
those  that  are  thus  made  may  be  looked  upon  as 
much  more  lasting  than  the  others,  though 
strictly  speaking,  they  are  not  of  the  good  dye. 

There  are  two  methods  of  extracting  these  red 
colours  from  the  archil.  The  first  is  by  incor- 
porating some  acid  in  the  composition  itself  that 
is  made  use  of  to  reduce  this  plant  to  a  paste 
(such  as  is  known  to  the  dyers  under  the  name 
of  archil).  I  have  been  assured  that  it  may  be 
made  violet  and  even  blue,  which  probably  is 
done  by  the  mixture  of  some  alkalis,  but  I  must 
confess  I  could  not  succeed .  in  it,  although  X 
made  above  twenty  trials  for  that  purpose.  I 
.shall  now  proceed  to  the  second  method  of 
extracting  frorn  archil  a  beautiful  imd  prett^- 


246  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

lasting  red,  and  which  I  executed  four  times 
with  success. 

Bastard  Scarlet  by  ^irchii. 

Prepared  archil  from  the  Canaries  is  dikited 
fis  usual  in  warm  water,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
the  cornmon  composition  for  scarlet  is  added, 
which  is  as  has  been  showTi  in  the  preceding 
treatise,  a  solution  of  tin  in  aqua  regia,  weakened 
with  water ;  this  acid  clears  the  liquor  immedi- 
ately and  gives  it  a  iicarlet  colour.  The  wool 
or  stuff  is  then  to  be  dipped  in  this  liquor,  and 
left  till  it  has  received  the  shade  n  quired.  If 
the  colour  siiould  not  have  brightness  enough, 
a  little  more  of  the  composition  must  be  put  in, 
and  pretty  near  the  same  method  must  be  fol- 
lowed as  in  the  dying  of  common  scarlet :  I  tried 
to  make  it  in  t\^o  liquors  as  the  scarlet,  that  is, 
to  boil  the  stuff  with  the  composition,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  archil,  and  afterwards  to  finish 
it  with  a  greater  quantity  of  both,  and  I  suc- 
ceeded equally  ;  but  the  operation  is  longer  after 
this  manner,  and  I  have  sometimes  made  as  fine 
a  colour  in  one  liquor.  Thus  the  dyer  may 
take  his  choice  of  either  of  these  methods. 

I  cannot  e^•actly  fix  the  quantity  of  ingredients 
in  this  operation.  First,  as  it  depends  on  the 
shade  that  is  to  be  given  to  the  stuff.  Second, 
as  it  is  a  new  process  in  dying,  I  have  not  had 
sufficient  experiments  to  know  with  exactness 
the  quantity  of  archil  and  composition  which 
ought  to  be  used  :  the  success  also  depends  on 
the  greater  or  lesser  acidity  of  the  composition. 
In  short,  this  method  of  dying  with  archil  is  so 
easy,  that  by  making  two  or  three  trials  in  small, 
more  kno\^  ledge  ■will  be  acquired  from  it  than  I 
could  teach  in  a  large  volume  :  I  must  only  add, 
that  the  more  the  colour  drawn  from  this  ingre- 


dyer's  companion.  247 

client  approaches  the  scarlet,  tlie  more  lasting- 
it  is.  I  have  made  a  great  number  of  shades 
from  the  same  archil,  and  which  consequently 
only  difFtred  by  the  greater  or  less  quantity  of 
the  composition,  and  I  always  found  that  the 
more  die  archil  went  from  the  natural  colour, 
the  more  lasting  it  became,  so  that  when  I 
brought  it  to  the  shade  known  by  the  name  of 
bastard  scarlet,  it  withstood  the  action  of  the  air 
and  every  proof  almost  as  well  as  that  which  is 
commonly  made  with  cochineal  or  madder. 

If  too  much  composition  be  put  in  the  liquor, 
the  wool  will  become  of  an  orange  colour,  and 
disagreeable.  The  same  thing  also  happens  with 
cochineal,  so  tliat  tliis  is  not  an  inconvenience 
peculiar  to  this  dye  ;  besides  it  is  easily  avoided 
by  proceeding  gradually  iti  the  addition  of  the 
composition,  and  by  putting  a  small  quantity 
at  first. 

I  have  tried  the  different  acids  in  this  scarlet, 
composition,  but  none  succeeded  well ;  vinegar 
did  not  give  a  sufficient  redness  to  the  liquor, 
and  the  stuff  dj'ed  in  it  only  took  a  colour  of 
lees  of  wine,  which  even  was  not  more  lasting 
in  the  air  than  that  of  the  archil  in  its  natural 
state,  and  other  acids  saddened  the  colour.  In 
short,  it  appears  that  (as  in  scarlet  with  cochi- 
neal) a  metallic  basis  extremely  white  must  be 
united  to  the  red  of  the  archil,  and  this  basis 
is  the  clax  of  tin.  I  have  repeated  the  same 
operation  with  the  archil  of  Auvergne,  but  the 
colours  ^vere  not  near  so  fine  or  so  good. 

JReceifit  \38i/i.     Red  of  Brazil  or  Eed-wood. 

UNDER  the  general  name  of  Brazil  wood 
is  comprehended  that  of  Fernambouc,  St.  Mar- 
tha, Japan,  Nicaragua  and  some  others,  which 
I.  shall  not  here  distinguish,    since  they   are 


24S  APPENDIX   10  tiTe 

ail  used  afterthe  same  manner  for  dying.  SbnTe 
give  greater  variety  of  colours  than  others,  or 
finer  ;  but  this  often  proceeds  from  the  parts  of 
the  wood  being  more  or  less  exposed  to  the  air 
or  that  some  parts  of  it  may  be  rotted.  The 
'roundest  or  highest  in  colour  are  to  be  chosen 
for  dying. 

^  AH  those  woods  give  a  tolerable  good  colour, 
either  used  alone,  mixt  with  logwood,  or  with 
other  colouring  ingredients.  It  will  be  shewn 
that,  in  the  false  or  bastard  violet,  a  little  Bra- 
zil was  added  to  the  logwood;  but  in  the  vinous 
greys,  or  those  which  have  a  cast  of  the  red,  a 
great  deal  more  is  used.  Sometimes  only,  a 
small  quantity  of  galls  is  put  with  the  Brazil, 
and  it  is  saddened  with  copperas ;  often  also 
with  logwood,  archil,  or  some  other  ingredient, 
it  is  added  according  to  tlie  shade,  from  whence 
it  is  not  possible  to  give  anj?'  fixed  rule  for  this 
kind  of  work,  on  account  of  the  infinite  varie- 
ty of  shades  which  are  obtained  from  these  dif- 
ferent mixtures. 

The  natural  colour  of  the  Brazil,  and  for 
which  it  is  most  used,  is  the  false  scarlet,  which 
appears  fine  and  bright,  but  far  inferior  to  the 
ferightness  of  the  cochineal  orgum-lacque. 

To  extract  the  colour  from  this  wood,  the 
hardest  water,  such  as  will  not  dissolve  soap, 
must  be  made  use  of,  for  river  water  has  not 
near  so  good  an  effect ;  it  must  be  cut  into 
ehips  and  boiled  for  three  hours  ;  the  water  is 
then  taken  out  and  put  into  a  large  vessel,  and 
fresh  well-water  put  on  the  wood  and  boiled 
again  for  three  hours ;  this  water  is  added  to  the 
first. 

This  liquc«*,  which  is  called  juice  of  Brazil, 
must  be  old  and  fermented,  and  rope  like  an 
«ily  wine,  before  it  is  fit  for  use.  To  extract  a 
Wright  red  from  it,  the  stuff  must  be  filled  with 


dyer's  companion.  249 

the  salts  of  the  common  liquor  of  preparation^ 
but  the  allum  must  predominate,  for  the  tartar 
alone,  and  also  sour  water,  greatly  spoils  the 
beauty  of  this  colour  :  in  short,  acids  are  hurt- 
ful to  it,  and  dissolve  its  red  colouring  part. 
Four  ounces  of  allum  for  each  pound  of  stuff  is 
to  be  added  to  the  liquor,  and  only  two  ounces 
of  tartar,  or  even  less.     The  wool  is  to  be  boiled 
in  it  for  three  hours  ;  it  is  then  taken  out  and 
gently  wrung,  and  thus  kept  moist  for  eight  days 
at  least,  that  by  the  salts  being  retained  it  may 
be  sufficiently  prepared  to  receive  the  dye.     To 
dye  with  this,  one  or  two  pails  full  of  the  old 
juice  of  Brazil  is  put  into  a  convenient  copper, 
and  well  scummed.    Dip  the  stuff  which   has 
remained  eight  or  ten  days  moistened  in  the  pre- 
paring liquor,  and  it  must  be  well  worked  in  it 
without  making  the  liquor  boil  too  strongly,  un- 
til  it  be  smoothly  and  equally  dyed.     Care  mu.-t 
be  taken  to  wring  a  corner  of  this  stuff  now  and 
then,  as  I  have  already  said,  to  judge  of  its  co- 
lour, for  whilst  Met,  it  appears  at   least  three 
shades  deeper  than  when  dry.    By  this  method, 
which  is  somewhat  tedious,   very  bright  reds 
are  made,    perfectly  imitating  certain  colours 
the  English  sell  under  the  name  of  Campeachy 
scarlets,  which  by  the  proof  of  dyes,  are  not 
found  to  be  better  than  this,  onlj^  that  they  seem 
to  have  been  lightly  maddered. 

This  red,  of  which  I  have  given  the  process, 
and  which  is  no  where  else  described,  withstands 
the  weather  three  or  four  months  in  the  winter, 
without  losing  any  of  its  shade  ;  on  the  contra- 
ry, it  saddens,  and  seems  to  acquire  a  ground, 
but  it  does  not  stand  the  proof  of  tartar. 

Some  dyers  of  the  great  dye  use  Brazil  to 

heighten  the  red  of  madder,  either  to  save  this 

root,  or  make  its  red  more  bright  than  usnal. 

This  is  done  by  dipping  in  a  Brazil  liquor  a 

Y2 


250  .•\i'PENDiX  TO  T&E 

Stuff',  begun  with  the  madder,  but  this  kind  of 
fraudulent  dye  is  expressly  forbid  by  the  French 
regulations,  as  well  as  any  mixture  of  the  great 
dye  with  the  lesser,  because  it  can  only  serve  to 
cheat,  and  to  pass  for  a  fine  madder  red,  a  colour 
wliich  in  a  few  days  loses  all  its  brightness  along 
with  the  shade,  which  has  been  drawn  from  the 
Brazil,  prepared  in  the  common  manner. 

The  first  colour  extracted  from  this  wood  is 
not  of  a  good  dye,  probably  because  it  is  an  in- 
digested sap,  and  whose  colouring  particles  have 
not  been  sufficiently  attenuated  to  be  retained 
and  sufficiently  fixed  in  the  pores  of  the  wool 
dyed  in  it-  When  these  first  gross  parts  of  the 
colour  have  been  carried  off,  those  that  remain 
in  small  quantity  are  finer,  and  mixing  them- 
selves to  the  yellow  parts,  which  are  furnished 
by  the  pure  woody  parts,  the  red  resulting  from 
it  is  more  lasting. 

By  the  means  of  acids,  of  what  kind  soever, 
all  the  red  colour  of  this  wood  is  carried  off  or 
disappears ;  then  the  stuff  that  is  dyed  by  it  takes 
a  hind  colour,  more  or  less  deep  in  proportion 
to  the  time  it  is  kept  in  the  liquor,  and  this  co- 
lour is  of  a  very  good  dye. 

It  is  said  that  the  dyers  of  Amboise,  have  a 
■method  of  binding  the  Brazil  colour  in  this 
manner  ;  after  their  stuff's  lightly  maddered  have 
been  passed  through  a  liquor  of  weld,  and  con- 
sequently boiled  twice  in  allum  and  tartar,  they 
put  arsenic  and  pearlash  in  the  juice  of  Brazil, 
and  it  is  asserted  that  this  colour  then  resists  the 
proofs  ;  I  tried  this  process,  but  it  did  not  suc- 
ceed. 

When  a  very  bright  red  is  required  from  the 
Brnzil,  I  know  by  experience  that  it  is  possible 
to  insure  the  colour  drawn  from  it  after  such  a 
manner,  that,  having  exposed  it  thirty  days  to 
the  rays  of  the  sumiwer's  sun,  it  will  not  ehai»gej 


dyer's  companion.  25/1 

Ijut  these  kind  of  colours  are  coffee  and  chesnut 
purples. 

To  make  these,  I  keep  the  stuff  moistened  in 
its  liquor  in  a  cellar  for  fifteen  days  ;  this  liquor 
is  prepared  as  for  the  reds,  of  which  I  have 
heretofore  spoken  ;  I  fill  a  copper  to  two-thirds 
with  well  water,  and  the  remaining  third  up  with 
Brazil  juice,  to  which  I  add  about  one  ounce  of 
Aleppo  galls  in  very  fine  powder  to  every  pound 
of  stuff,  and  then  boil  it  one  or  two  hours,  as  I 
want  the  shade  to  be  in  deepness  :  the  stuff  is 
aired  from  time  to  time,  and  when  it  has  taken 
the  colour  desired,  it  is  well  cooled  before  it  is 
washed.  This  stuff  being  brushed,  the  nap  lay- 
ed  and  cold  pressed,  comes  out  very  fine  and 
very  smooth. 

As  to  brazil  and  other  subjects  for  red  of  the 
lesser  dye,  they  must  all  :undergo  a  similar  pre- 
paration as  has  been  described,  and  when  the 
red  of  these  subjects  are  connected  with  otheB 
dyes,  you  will  see  it  fully  described  in  the  re- 
ceipts of  the  preceding  work. 

I  shall  close  this  subject  of  the  red,  by  giving 
some  remarks  on  the  experiments  of  cochineal 
liquor. 

Zinc  dissolved  in  spirit  of  nitre  changes  the 
red  of  cochineal  to  a  slaty  violet  colour. 

The  salt  of  lead,  used  instead  of  cream  of  tar- 
tar, makes  a  lilac  somewhat  faded ;  a  proof 
that  some  portion  of  lead  is  joined  to  the  colour 
of  the  cochineal. 

Vitriolated  tartar  made  with  potash  and  vi- 
triol destroys  its  red,  and  there  only  remains  an 
agiith  grey. 

Bismuth  dissolved  in  spirit  of  nitre,  weaken- 
ed by  an  equal  part  of  common  water,  and  pour- 
ed on  the  liquor  of  cochineal,  gives  the  cloth 
a  dove- grey,  very  beautiful  and  very  bright. 

A  solution  of  copper  jn  spirit  of  nitre  jio^ 


25^  ATPENDIX  TO  THE 

weakened,  gives  to  the  cochineal  a  dirty  crim- 
son. 

Cupullated  silver  a  cinnamon  colour  a  little 
on  the  brown. 

Arsenic  added  to  the  liquor  of  cochineal, 
gives  a  brighter  cinnamon  than  the  preceding. 

Gold  dissolved  in  aqua  regia  gave  a  streaked 
chesnut,  which  made  the  cloth  appear  as  if  it 
had  been  manufoctured  with  wool  of  different 
colours. 

Mercury  dissolved  with  spirit  of  nitre,  pro- 
duces pretty  near  the  same  effect. 

Glauber's  salts  alone  destroys  the  red,  like 
the  vitriolated  tartar,  and  produces  like  that  an 
agath  grey,  but  not  of  the  good  dye:  because 
this  salt  easily  dissolves  even  in  cold  water,  and 
besides  it  calcines  in  the  air. 

The  fixed  salt  of  urine  gives  a  cinder-grey 
eolour,  where  not  the  least  tincture  of  red  is 
perceived,  and  like  the  foregohig  is  not  of  a 
good  dye,  for  it  is  a  salt  that  cannot  form  a  sol- 
id cement  in  the  pores  of  the  wool,  as  it  is 
soluble  by  tlie  moisture  of  the  air. 


CHAP.  IV. 

Rcceilit  U9th.     OF  BROWJ^'. 

BROWN  is  one  of  the  primary  or  material 
colours ;  it  is  fourth  in  rank,  and  it  has  a  great 
numberof  variable  shades,  and  is  dependent  on 
the  power  of  the  corrosive,  from  the  darkest  to 
the  lightest  shades,  let  the  subjects  be  of  what 
rank  they  will,  either  inclining  to  blue  or  yellow, 
red  or  black,  they  must  be  corroded,  before  it  can 
be  a  real  colour,  otherwise  it  would  be  a  mixture 
and  it  would  be  no  colour  in  itself,  yet  there  is  no 


beer's  COMPAlJION.  2S3 

liolour  that  has  so  great  a  connection  with  the 
mixture  of  colours  as  the  brown,  as  will  be 
shown  in  the  sequel ;  it  has  a  variety  of  sub- 
jects as  will  be  shown,  and  its  corrosive  powers 
is  copperas ;  the  subjects  are  so  numerous  I 
shall  only  mention  the  principle  ones.  Brown  is 
placed  in  this  rank,  because  it  enters  in  the  com- 
position of  a  great  number  of  colours,  as  -yoU 
may  see  in  the  preceding  work,  in  the  receipts 
for  browns,  &.c. ;  the  working  is  diiferent  from 
others,  for  commonly  no  preparation  is  given  tp 
the  wool  to  be  dyed  brown,  and  like  the  blue  it 
is  onlj'-  dipped  in  hot  water.  The  rinds  or  barks 
and  roots  of  the  butternut,  walnut  and  hickory,, 
the  barks  of  white  oak,  of  chesnut,  of  maple,  of 
•alder,  nut  galls  and  the  galls  of  all  oaks,  santal, 
•sumac,  roudoul  or  sovie,  soot,  &c.  are  used  in 
this  dye  :  butternut  bark  is  the  one  most  in  use, 
•and  may  be  ranked  as  the  first,  it  produces  a 
great  variety  of  shades  and  if  rightly  used  its  co- 
lour is  permanent,  and  is  one  of  the  greatest  co- 
louring substitutes  in  the  Northern  States  ;  it  ii 
good  in  all  brovv^ns  mixed  with  brown  and  yel- 
low, or  brown,  red  and  yellow,  as  you  may  see 
by  my  former  work.  As  the  bark  of  butternut 
is  so  common,  and  so  well  explained  in  the  re- 
ceipts in  the  preceding,  I  shall  say  no  more  of  it 
here. 

Browns  are  all  saddened  or  darkened  vvith 
copperas  in  proportion  to  the  shade  required  ; 
the  other  colouring  subjects  for  brown  will  be 
noticed  hereafter. 


CHAP.  V. 

Iteceifit  140M.     OF  BLACK, 

^  BLACK  is  the  fifth  primary  or  material  co. 
iQur ;  its  principle  subject  is  logwood ;  it  is  gov- 


254  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

erned  by  the  power  of  the  corrosive,  in  which  ajl 
colours  and  shades  are  absorbed  and  corroded 
in  darkness.  The  barks,  galls,  sumac,  &c.  serve 
to  make  a  body  ^vithihe  goods  for  the  1  gwood  to 
act  opon,  the  acid  of  argiil  and  the  alkah,  corrects 
the  vitriolic  acid,  that  it  receives  by  the  green  vi- 
triol or  copperas;  this  vitriolic  acid  rouses  the 
logwood  and  gives  it  a  purple  brown  for  which  it 
must  be  corroded  eirher  by  acid  or  alkali,  or  both. 
Black  hah  but  one  shade;  that  of  black  or  darkness, 
yet  it  is  denominated  as  having  four,  blue  black, 
because  the  blue  is  not  absorbed  ;  grey  black, 
the  pores  or  bodies  are  not  filled  ;  brown  black, 
for  want  of  a  neutral  to  correct  the  vitriolic  acid 
and  the  slightly  parts  of  the  logwood ;  and  the 
coal  black,  that  is,  perfectly  fine  and  velvety* 

Receifit  \A\st,     FOR  BLACK. 

FOR  one  hundred  pounds  of  cloth,  fill  your 
copper  with  water,  then  add  sixty  pounds  of 
logwood  chips,  thirty  pounds  of  sumac  and  three 
pounds  of  nut  galls,  or  white  oak  bark  as  pre- 
pared for  tanners  may  be  substituted  for  nut 
galls ;  heat  and  boil  well  one  hour,  then  run 
your  cloth  one  and  an  half  hours  ;  then  take  up 
and  cool,  boil  again,  and  run  as  before  ;  cool, 
and  take  two  pounds  and  a  half  ofpearlash,  dis- 
solve it  in  six  gallons  of  warm  water,  then  pul- 
"verize  one  pound  and  a  half  of  verdigrease,  and 
add  one  gallon  of  the  pearlash  liquor ;  let  it 
simmer  over  a  moderate  fire  with  often  stirring, 
but  not  boil ;  then  take  thirty  pounds  of  cop- 
peras and  put  with  the  remaining  pearlash  li- 
quor, and  dissolve  it,  then  add  it  to  the  dj^e,  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  take  out  and  cool ;  then  add 
the  verdigrease  solution,  run  again  with  the  dye 
boiling,  run  and  air  as  before  ;  then  add  three 
pounds  and  a  half  of  blue  vitriol,  run  again  and 


dyer's  companion.  255 

you  will  have  a  fine  black.  The  verdigreasc 
and  blue  vitriol,  stand  as  neutrals  in  this  dye;, 
the  verdigrease  is  a  mineral  of  copper,  and  is 
much  finer  than  iron,  of  course  has  a  small- 
er quantity  of  earth  with  it ;  it  is  an  assistant  in 
saddening,  and  rouses  the  logwood  :  blue  or 
a  Roman  vitriol,  is  a  mineral  of  a  vitriolic  sub- 
stance, and  they  both  serve  to  assist  and  correct 
the  logwood  and  the  vitriolic  acid  of  thr  copper- 
as, they  are  both  corroding  and  acid  powers  in 
this  dye  and  all  other  dyes  where  used. 

Jleceifit  \i2d.  Another  form  for  Blacky  in  •which  the 
brittlencss  and  weakness  of  the  goods  is  coir.Jiletehj 
remedied. 

FOR  one  hundred  weight  of  cloth,  fill  your 
Doiler  with  fair  water,  take  twenty  pounds  of 
yellow  oak  bark  ground  as  for  tan,  or  twelve 
pounds  of  fustic  chips  as  a  substitute  for  the 
bark,  boil  well  one  hour  ;  then  add  twenty  five 
pounds  of  copperas,  rake  the  dye  well,  then  run 
your  cloth  one  hour,  take  out,  air  and  return 
again,  and  reel  with  the  dye  boiling  as  before  ; 
then  air  and  rince  your  cloth  clean,  shift  your 
liquor  from  your  boiler,  clean  well,  fill  with  wa- 
ter and  add  forty-six  pounds  of  logwood  chips, 
twenty  pounds  of  sumac  well  dried,  and  three 
pounds  of  nut  galls  pulverized,  or  twelve  pounds 
of  white  oak  bark  as  for  tan  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  galls  ;  boil  one  hour,  then  run 
your  cloth  two  hours ;  then  take  up  and  cool, 
boil  again  a  few  minutes,  run  as  before  and 
air  ;  then  add  three  pounds  of  i^earlash  or  potash 
dissolved,  and  two  pounds  of  blue  vitriol,  boil 
well,  run  your  cloth  tu  o  hours  with  the  dye 
boiling,  and  your  black  will  be  fine  and  affixed, 
not  superficial  and  s-outfy  :  the  black  will  be 
soft  and  velvety,    I  sliall  now  proceed  to  give 


256-  ^VVtUDlK   TO   THT? 

the  reasons  why  blacks  are  so  tender,  brittle  and 
smutty ;  goods  are  not  brittled  altogether  by 
the  vitriolic  acid  that  the  copperas  contains,  as  is 
the  general  opinion  ;  first,  copperas  is  made  up 
of  tliree  parts,  earth,  iron  and  acid,  and  when 
applied  to  the  dye  of  black,  according  to  com- 
mon form  after  the  vegetable  astringents  of  log- 
wood, sumac,  galls,  b.c.  ;  the  earth  of  the 
copperas  being  the  lightest  part  first  enters  the 
bodies;  the  pores  and  fibres  of  the  wool  are  clos- 
ed by  the  astringents,  and  the  vitriolic  acid  has 
not  power  to  force  out  the  earth  and  gain  admis- 
sion for  the  iron,  l^ecause  it  is  so  inclosed,  and 
the  fibres  shut  by  the  astringents  that  it  never 
enters  and  preys  on  the  bodies,  but  remains 
only  superficial.  Galls  are  the  most  astringent 
of  any  vegetable,  and  when  any  of  these  vegeta- 
ble astringent  substances  are  first  used  without 
a  preparation,  the  salts  after  they  are  applied, 
remain  superficial  and  never  enter  the  bodies  ort" 
the  wool ;  and  further  it  binds  all  the  fibres  and 
bodies  of  the  wool  with  all  the  resin  and  glu- 
tinous substance  that  remains  of  the  animal  in 
the  bodies  of  the  wool,  and  that  resin  becomes 
affixed  and  causes  it  to  crock.  The  wool  is  brit- 
tle because  the  earth  has  entered  the  pores  of  the 
wool,  and  is  bound  by  the  astringents ;  for  that 
reason  the  iron  and  acid  remains  on  the  outside 
and  never  enters  the  bodies  of  the  wool,  and  it 
cannot  be  affixed,  but  remains  superficial.  It 
may  be  asked,  why  do  not  blacks  lose  all  theit 
colour  ?  I  answer  it  is  not  the  affixity,  but  being 
loaded  with  such  a  mass  of  colouring  substances 
that  tlie  rays  of  light  cannot  reflect  upon  it,  and 
after  it  has  lost  half  the  colour,  that  it  first  re- 
ceived, there  is  a  sufficient  body  to  resist  the 
rays  of  light  -,  for  example,  take  one-tenth  part 
of  the  colouring  ingredients  and  apply  them  ex- 
actly in  the  same  form  as  for  black,  and  you  will 


dyer's  companion.  257 

find  it  will  admit  the  rays  of  light,  and  will  soon 
lose  all  its  colour  ;  this  shows  that  the  colour 
is  not  affixed  but  superficial  :  these  are  the 
reasons  why  blacks  in_  general  are  tender  and 
liable  to  be  smutty ;  in  short  not  to  tire  the 
patience  of  the  reader,  I  have  endeavoured  to 
show  the  cause  of  the  tenderness  and  liability 
of  blcicks  to  crock  ;  I  will  endeavour  to  give 
the  process  (by  differently  ap))ljir.g  the  goods 
and  colouring  subjicts)  to  prevent  their  be- 
ing tender  and  smutty.  By  first  preparing  the 
goods  with  copperas  and  fustic  or  bark,  a  por- 
tion of  the  acid  of  the  copperas  evaporates,  and 
the  earth  principally  unitts  with  pr'rt  of  the  acid 
and  the  colouring  subject  and  drives  out  the 
colour  of  this  subject,  and  leaves  the  astringen- 
cy  ;  and  when  the  goods  are  entered,  tlie  iron  and 
colouring  substance,  with  a  small  portion  of  the 
arid  enters  the  wool  and  becomes  affixed,  and 
the  air  drives  it  into  the  pores  and  crystalizes  it, 
that  die  iron  and  acid  cannot  be  dissolved  by 
air  and  water ;  by  rincing  in  cold  water  it 
removes  all  the  useless  substance,  and  part  of 
the  earth  and  acid,  and  is  divested  of  all  the  su- 
ptrfluous  matter  ;  by  emptying  the  copper  you 
are  divested  of  the  whole  of  the  earth,  that  the 
copperas  contains  ;  now  it  is  prepared  for  the 
logw'ood,  sumac,  galls,  &c.  ;  these  astrir.gents 
take  immediate  hold  of  the  bodies  of  these  pre- 
pared goods,  and  becomes  affixed  in  all  the 
pores  and  fibres  of  the  wool.  Ive  alkali  of  pe;:rl- 
ash,  &.C.  does  not  bind  the  colour,  but  only 
corrects  and  takes  off"  the  light  and  fleety  part  of 
the  logwood  ;  the  verdigrease  and  blue  vitriol, 
rouses  the  colouring  substances;  as  acids, 
they  arc  more  so  than  cof)peras,  and  the  miner;! 
much  finer.  The  l)lue  vitriol  is  possessed  of  a, 
large  portion  of '-arth,  much  more  than  copperas 
or  verdigrease,  and  is  very  astringent  and  ought 


258  APPENDIX  TO  THE,    &C. 

never  to  be  used  in  a  preparation,  only  in  the  last 
of  a  dye  after  the  goods  ha\'e  had  a  preparation 
and  the  fibres  of  the  wool  closed  by  the  astrin- 
gents, then  the  earth  of  the  vitriol  remains  super- 
ficial and  is  all  dissolved  or  vi^ashed  away  by 
water ;  but  as  an  astringent,  it  is  the  most  so 
of  all  vitriols,  it  binds  the  colouring  substances, 
but  corrects  none. 

The  cleansing  and  scouring  of  the  blacks 
ought  to  be  noticed  :  the  ancient  form  of  cleans- 
ing black  is,  after  the  loose  dye  is  rinced  off, 
then  fill  them  with  fullers  eartih,  it  only  works 
through  the  cloth  in  the  mill,  and  by  this  fritting 
it  swallows  up  all  the  superficial  part  of  the  dye, 
and  rince  with  clear  water  :  but  this  is  not  the 
best  way,  after  you  have  rinced  oft"  in  the  mill 
the  loose  dye  hang  the  cloth  out  and  dry,  and 
to  every  hundred  pounds  of  cloth  take  two  pound 
of  hard  soap,  dissolve  it  in  warm  water  sufficient 
to  wet  them,  say  twelye  gallons,  then  take  three 
pints  of  beef  gall,  mix  it  with  the  soap  water 
and  sprinkle  on  the  cloth,  let  it  run  in  the  mill 
fifteen  minutes,  and  then  rince  well.  The  soap 
removes  all  the  loose  parts  of  the  dye  stuff,  and 
the  beef  gall  makes  them  all  affixed  and  binds 
the  whole,  as  it  is  an  astringent.  Some  errone- 
ously use  soap  only,  but  that  is  the  reverse,  and 
leaves  the  wool  too  open,  like  other  alkalis. 


L     25^    ] 
CBSERVATIONS 

ON  THE 

MIXTURE  OF  COLOURS, 
DYE  STUFFS,  &c. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

On  the  mixture  of  Colours. 

©N  the  five  principle  colours  in  this  and  the  precedingpi 
■work.  1  have  endeavoured  to  point  out  the  bcbt  methods  for 
practice,  both  in  the  sweater  and  lesser  dye.  1  shall  now 
endeavour  to  show  the  connection  these  colours  have  by 
twos,  and  by  ihrees,  but  it  will  be  generally  on  the  g*eat  or 
good  dye ;  it  v/ill  be  needless  to  have  a  repetition  in  this 
■work,  as  there  is  iu  the  former  work  above  fifty  receipts 
■which  give  a  variety  of  shades  of  the  lesser  dye,  and  it  is 
■well  explained  iri  the  essay  on  the  pi\>perties  and  effects  of 
dye  stuffs  &  their  dependin  '  ])owers. 

On  mixing  Colours  three  by  three. 

Bl'ie,  yellow  and  black,  produce  ali  d  .rk  g-ecns  to  a 
black  — Blue,  red,and  yellow,  produce  olives,  greenish  pro  s 
and  other  colours  of  the  same  kind  ;  wlien  the  mixture  con- 
tains blue  it  is  usual  to  begin  with  that  colour. — Blue,  red 
and  brown,  produce  from  the  darkest  to  the  iiglitcst  siiades. 
Blue,  red  a.'.\i\  black,  produce  a  numerous  v:ir:ety  of  shades. 
Blue,  yellow  and  brown,  produce  greens  and  olives  of  all 
kinds. — Blue,  brown  and  black,  produce  olives  and  greenish 
greys — Red,  yellow  and  brown,  produce  orange,  gold 
c»lour,  burnv  cinnamon  and  suufF colours  of  all  kinds — Red, 
yellow  and  black,  produce  a  colour  which  resembles  a 
■withered  leaf. — Lastly,  from  yellow,  brown  and  black,  you 
obtain  hair  co'«)ur,  nut  brown,  &c.  Four  of  these  colours 
may  be  mixed  together,  and  sometimes  five,  but  this  is  not 
usual.  It  is  needltss  to  enlarge  upon  this  subject,  I  shall 
only  observe  that  a  variety  of  different  shades  may  be  ob- 
tained from  each  of  these  colours ;  the  design  of  this  enume- 
ration is  only  to  give  a  general  idea  of  the  inj^redients  that 
are  proper  for  the  production  of  colours,  con.posed  rf  sev- 
eral others.  As  it  respects  the  lesser  dye  of  grass  gre-  n  ob- 
tained from  chymick,  it  is  well  explained  in  the  former 


260  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

work  ;  I  shall  only  niention  the  process  for  pea-green,  and 
refer  to  receipt  No.  6,  for  the  preparation  of  the  chymick  for 
the  bhie :  the  goods  being  well  scoured  are  to  be  allumed, 
fbr  every  twenty  pounds  weight,  two  pounds  of  alium  is  to 
be  put  into  a  copper  with  fair  water,  and  the  goods  boiled 
gently  ail  hour  and  a  half;  whilst  this  is  i)erforrTiing,  ano- 
ther copper  is  got  ready,  in  which  fustic  chips  are  put  t© 
boil;  if  there  are  anv  to, dye  pea-.^reen  it  is  best  to  dye  them 
first,  not  as  practised  in  so!ne  dve-houses,  for  this  great 
reason,  that  when  several  parcels  of  goods  have  been 
through  the  same  liquor,  the  re  remains  a  scurf  which  the 
acid  extr;icts,  and  that  is  suTr  to  stick  to  the  next  parcel 
that  goes  in  ;  nnd  if  pea-green  was  the  last,  the  colour  would 
be  (lulled  thereby-  'I'he  greens  (i)e::-gr.'en  excepted)  are 
to  he  turned  about  ten  minuses  in  the  alluni  liquor  after  they 
are  dy^d,  in  order  tn  clcnr  them  of  the  stufT,  and  render  the 
colour  brighter.  Th'i  allum  liquor  is  not  to  be  hotter  than 
tbat  the  hand  n^:iy  be  borne  m.  Observe,  if  the  allum  was 
put  in  (as  is  custcroary  in  srnit  dye-houses)  with  the  fustic, 
it  would  retard  its  working  so  we'ii;ftn  allum,  being  an  acid, 
would  discharge  if  used  with,  ns  well  as  prepare  for  fustic. 
OF  PURPLE. 

IN  the  first  ages  of  the  world  this  was  esteemed  the  rich- 
fest  of  all  colour-.  Purple  was  the  colour  ot  the  garments 
that desigr:ate<1  men  who  were  disiini<ui>hed  by  their  civil 
and  re'.igi.  us  tiitirns  This  beautiful  colour  was  obtained 
from  a  shell  fish  resembling  the  nvster  ;  it  is  taken  on  the 
vithout  any  other  ingredi<'nt  th'>  fish  coast  of  Palestine  ; 
ctr.lours  the  purple  ;  it  gives  a  bright  and  lasting  col<  ur  to  all 
goods  that  h:ive  received  its  impression  ;  this  dye  stuf? 
comes  so  highly  charged  that  it  has  never  been  much  used 
in  any  part  of  Europe  or  America. 

The  Grecians  found  a  substitute  for  purple  in  a  plant  call- 
ed amorgis  ;  it  is  probable  neither  of  these  will  be  used  in 
this  part  of  the  world,  :is  bo'h  are  very  expensive 
OF  OR.iJVGE. 

THE  brightest  orange  is  raised  by  first  colouring  the  cloth 
scarlet,  and  then  dipping  it  in  a  yellow  dye  of  turmeric  and 
fustic ;  it  may  be  obtained  by  colouring  the  cloth  crimson 
and  then  yellow,  or  first  dipping  it  in  a  red-WQod  or  madder 
dye,  then  in  the  vellow  dye.  &c. 

0/  the  mixlure  of  the  Colours  three  by  three. 

I  will  again  repeat  the  primitive  colours  three  by  three, 
to  impress  on  the  dyers  mind  what  he  ought  to  begin 
with,  and  the  preparation  to  govern  the  dye. 

From  blue,  red,  and  yellow,  the  red  olives  and  greenish 
greys  are  made,  and  some  other  like  shades  of  little  use 
only  for  spun  wool  designed  tor  tapestry.    It  %Yould  be  a 


dyer's  companion-.  261 

repetition  to  give  the  method  of  using  these  colours,  having 
sumciently  explained  it  in  the  preceding  pages. 

In  the  mixture,  where  blue  is  a  shade,  it  is  usual  to  begin 
•with  it ;  the  stuff  is  afterwards  boiled  to  give  it  the  other 
colours,  in  which  it  is  dipped  alternately  one  after  the  other  ; 
notwithstanding  they  are  sometimes  mixed  together,  and 
are  as  good,  provided  they  are  colours  which  require  the 
same  preparation  ;  for  example,  the  madder-rtd  and  the 
yellow.  As  to  the  cochineal  and  fcermes,  they  are  seldom 
used  in  these  common  colours,  but  only  light  colours  which 
have  a  bloom  or  vinous  hue,  and  which  must  be  bright  and 
brilliant,  and  then  they  are  not  used  in  the  last  liquor,  that 
is,  the  stuff  is  only  dipped  in  when  it  has  received  the  other 
colours,  unless  they  are  to  be  greyed  a  little,  which  is  lastly 
done  by  passing  them  through  the  browning.  It  is  impossi- 
ble to  give  any  precise  rules  for  this  work,  and  the  least 
practice  of  these  rules  will  teach  more  than  I  could  say  in 
many  volumes- 
Olives  are  made  from  blue,  red,  and  brown,  from  the 
deepest  to  the  lightest,  and  byfgiving  a  little  shade  of  red,  the 
slated  greys,  the  lavender  greys,  and  such  like. 

From  the  blue,  the  red,  and  the  black,  an  infinite  number 
of  greys  of  all  shades  are  made,  as  the  sage  grey,  the  pigeon 
grey,  the  slate  grey,  the  lead  grey,  the  king's  and  prince's 
colour,  browner  than  usual,  and  a  variety  of  other  colours 
almost  inijumerable. 

Receipt  I43t/.  For  Frnvn  Colonr  and  Silver  Grey. 
FAWN  is  a  lightish  sandy  brown,  being  very  permanent. 
For  twelve  pounds  of  wool,  take  half  a  bushel  of  walnut 
husks,  put  them  in  the  copper  of  clean  water,  let  them  boil 
one  hour;  then  dip  your  wool  three  hours;  take  up  and 
cool,  and  add  four  ounces  of  crude  or  red  tartar,  dip  again 
two  hours  ;  take  up  and  cool,  and  you  have  a  durable  co- 
lour for  silver  grey. 

Receipt  144/A.    FOR  SILVER  GREY. 

FOR  twenty  pounds  of  cloth  or  worsted,  eight  ounces  of 
allum  and  twelve  pounds  of  fenugreek  must  boil  with  the 
goods  half  an  hour  ;  then  take  it  up,  and  add  one  pound  of 
pearlash  and  eight  ounces  of  Brazil  wood  ;  boil  them  gently 
•with  the  goods  half  an  hour  ;  rince  it  and  you  have  a  beau  • 
tiful  coloui'. 

From  yellow,  blue,  and  brown,  are  made  the  greens, 
goose  dung,  and  olives  of  all  kinds. 

From  brown,  blue,  and  black,  are  produced  the  bro^wn 
olives,  and  the  green  greys. 

From  the  red,  yellow,  and  brown,  proceed  the  orange, 
gold  colour,  marigold,  feulemort,  oldcavnations,  burnt  eiu. 
namon,  and  tobacco  of  all  kinds. 
Z  2 


i^62  APPENDIX  TO    THE 

Receipt  l\5th.    For  Tobacco  or  Snuff  (J04OU.T. 

FOR  every  hundred  p-unds  of  wool  take  twenty  pounds 
of  good  ground  ca'nwoi  d,  ijoil  well,  run  or  dip  your  wool 
three  h'urs;  tlieu  have  another  liquor  prepared  of  eighty 
pounds  of  lustic  and  ten  bushels  of  butternut  bark,  boil  well 
till  the  strength  is  well  out ;  tak-r"  out  the  chips  and  bark; 
stir  or  dip  t!ie  wwl  six  hours  ;  then  air,  and  add  ten  povmds 
of  copperas  and  three  gallons  of  sig,  immerse  again,  and 
keep  it  in  with  the  dye  boiling,  till  you  obtain  the  shade  re- 
quuv-d      This  ib  a  nnost  excellent  and  pernnanent  colour. 

i  offer  these  suggttstions  thai  workmen  mav  suit  them- 
selves in  mixing  colours.  Europeans  apprised  of  our  in- 
creasing manufactories,  attempt  to  baffle  out  attempts  by 
imposing  on  us  mixed  cloth  as  fashionable  ;  thev  are  sensi- 
ble th.it  the  younger  look  to  the  older  nations  tor  the  pat- 
terns of  their  garmeucs,  and  for  fashionable  colours  of  tlicir 
cloths;  for  this  reason  the  Europeans  frequently  change  or 
mix  their  colours  to  retain  our  adherence  to  their  markets. 
Of  Colours  wfuch  loiU  endure  milling. 

DEEP  bluf;  With  all  its  shades,  black,  red  brown,  smoke 
and  snuff  browns,  cinniimon,  crimson  madder-red,  pink, 
purple,  claret  with  red- wood,  all  browns  and  drabs.  1  in- 
sert the  e  observations  to  accommodate  those  people  that 
would  wish  to  mix  any  of  these  colours  in  the  wool  for  cloth 
hat  is  to  be  milled. 

CHAP.  VII. 

A  few  remarks  on  Dye  Drup^n,  Woods,  and  Barks,  and 
Salts  firefiarafory  to  them 
OF  JJVDIGO. 
THERE  are  various  qualities,  and  many  dyers  fail  in  their 
judgment  of  the  indigo  ;  the  best  is  imported  from  Spanish 
America,  it  is  generally  soft,  and  will  swim  on  the  surface  of 
•water,  and  in  called  flotong,  this  is  the  best  kind  of  indigo 
for  blues,  and  no  other  ought  ever  to  be  used  for  saxon 
greens.  French  indigo  is  much  harder  and  in  lumps  about 
two  inches  square  ;  if  good,  when  broken  it  will  appear  a 
fine  purple,  this  will  mai;e  a  litie  blue.  Carolina  indigo  will 
answer  for  almost  all  colours,  where  indigo  is  used,  if  it  will 
mix  well  with  oil  of  vitriol,  it  will  answer  for  all  blues  ;  this 
kind  of  indigo  is  in  lumps  about  the  size  of  French  indigo  ; 
you  mav  break  a  lump  and  find  its  quality  by  cutting  or 
■scraping  it  with  the  edge  of  a  knife,  and  wetting  and  rubbing 
it  on  the  nail  :  if  the  colour  adheres  to  the  nail  it  may  be 
pronounced  good;  but  if  it  appear  of  a  purple,  and  something 
mouldy  as  if  the  air  had  passed  through  it,  or  puts  on  a  sad, 
dirty,  dull  colour,  breaks  hard  and  flinty,  and  is  full  of  small 
round  white  specks,  it  is  tit  for  no  use,  and  viU  answer  m> 
purpose  in  dying. 


dyer's  companion.  263 

OF  COCHIjYEAL. 
COCHINEAL  is  an  insect  cultivated  in  South  America, 
it  is  shipped  to  Spain,  from  Spain  to  England  and  from 
thence  to  Amerca  at  a  high  price  on  account  of  its  accumu- 
lated and  heavy  duties.  It  is  a  strong  and  good  dye  drug, 
and  will  return  a  handsome  profit  to  the  dyer  when  used  in 
scarlets,  pinks  and  crimsons.  That  which  is  good  will  ap- 
pear plump  and  look  as  though  a  light  sprinkling  of  flour 
had  been  cast  upon  it.  If  you  keep  it  dry  in  a  glass  bottle, 
stopped  tight,  it  will  remain  good  many  years.  There  is  a 
kind  of  cochineal  wild  and  uncultivated,  it  is  sitiall  and 
shrivelled,  will  make  a  good  colour,  but  will  require  three 
times  the  weij^ht  of  the  other.  Some  cochineal  is  damaged 
by  salt  water;  this  appears  of  a  dirty  crimson  cast,  and  is 
fit  for  no  use. 

OF  CAMWOOD. 
CAMWOOD  is  with  propriety  called  the  best  of  dye 
■woods;  I  think  it  must  be  a  species  of  saunders ;  its  colour  is 
permanent,  and  will  resist  the  influence  of  the  air  and  al- 
most all  acids.  It  is  not  many  years  since  the  use  of  it  was 
first  known  in  the  United  States  ;  it  is  in  logs  of  wood  from 
six  inches  to  a  foot  through;  it  splits  freely  and  when  good  is 
heavy  ;  on  opening  it,  the  first  appearance  is  a  bright  rf^d- 
dish  orange,  on  being  exposed  to  the  air  it  turns  reddish  ; 
its  smell  is  pungent  It  is  much  mor-  convenient  for  the  dy- 
er to  have  it  ground,  or  you  nuht  chii>  it  tine ;  it  being  a  very 
close  wood  it  will  require  much  boiling  :  that  which  is 
ground,  if  go>d  will  appear  of  a  yellowish  red ;  if  you  wave 
it  a  hot  dust  will  arise,  which  irritates  the  nose  and  the 
glands  of  the  throat;  that  which  is  mild  and  of  a  darkish 
red  has  been  leeched  and  will  produce  no  good  colour. 
OF  BRAZIL  OR  RED-WOOD. 
RED- WOOD  makes  fine  c  -lours  and  is  useful  in  many 
dyes,  whether  used  alone  or  wuh  logwood ;  if  used  with  log- 
wood it  will  produce  violet  lilac,  and  is  useful  in  browns 
■where  red  is  required;  it  is  good  for  a  pink,  claret,  &c, ;  it  is 
better  to  use  nut  galls  with  it  Brazil  comes  in  small  sticks; 
if  good,  looks  bright,  of  a  little  yellowish  red,  smells  agree- 
able, and  chips  freely.  The  colour  obtained  from  this  wood 
is  not  lasting  if  obtained  hastily  ;  the  liquor  ought  to  sour, 
then  the  colour  will  be  permanent;  thit  which  has  beeo 
damaged  by  the  sea-water  or  otherwise,  afford  a  dull  red 
chip,  and  is  cohesive  and  clingy. 

OF  JS^ICARAGUA  WOOD. 
NICARAGUA  is  in  sticks  of  various  sizes  ;  these  sticks 
have  a  number  of  concaves  in  them,  which  have  the  appear- 
ance of  art.  This  wood  splits  freely,  and  is  of  a  reddish 
orange  colour,  it  gives  a  bright  colour  and  is  used  much  th& 
same  as  brazil  wood,  but  is  preferable  in  browns,  &c. 


264  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

OF  B.iRWOOD. 

SOME  have  mistaken  barwood  for  camwood,  and  not 
knowing  the  use,  both  have  been  condemned.  Barwood  will 
dye  chocolates  and  darkish  browns  ;  it  commonly  comes  in 
clefts,  it  is  of  a  reddish  brown,  splits  freely  one  way  of  lUe 
grain,  the  other  hard  and  rough. 

Ght/mical  History  of  Saunders,  and  its  difference  from      her  Red- 
■woods. 

RED  saunders  is  a  hard,  compact,  ponderous  wood,  of  a 
dark  blackish  red  on  the  outside,  and  a  light  red  colour 
•within  ;  of  no  particular  smell  or  taste  It  is  brought  from 
the  Coromandel  coast  and  from  Golconda.  Of  the  tree  we 
have  no  certain  account.  Its  principal  use  is  as  a  colouring 
drug.  Those  whose  business  it  is  to  rasp  and  grind  it  into 
powder,  probablv  employ  certain  saline  or  othi  r  additions  to 
improve  the  colour ;  whence  the  I'emarkable  differences 
in  the  colour  of  powdered  saunders  prepared  in  different 
places  That  of  Strasburgh  is  of  the  deepest  and  liveliest  red. 
Some  sorts  are  of  a  dead  dark  red,  and  some  of  a  pale  brick 
red  ;  some  incline  to  purple  or  violet,  and  some  to  brown. 

The  colour  ot  this  wood  resides  wholly  in  its  resin,  and 
hence  is  extracted  by  rectified  spirit,  whilst  water,  though 
it  takes  up  a  portion  of  mucilaginous  matter,  gains  no  tinge, 
or  only  a  slight  yellowish  one  From  two  ounces  of  the 
■wood  were  obtained  by  spirit  of  wine  three  drachms  and  a 
half  of  resinous  extract,  and  afterwards  by  water,  a  scruple 
of  mucilage.  By  applying  water  at  first,  I  obtained  from 
two  ounces  two  drachms  and  six  grains  of  a  tough  mucila- 
ginous extract,  which  could  not  easily  be  redwced  to  dryness. 
The  remainder  still  yielded,  with  spirit,  two  drachms  of 
resin.  The  indissoluble  matter  weighed,  in  the  first  case,  an 
eunce  and  a  half  and  fifteen  grains ;  in  the  latter,  nineteen 
grains  less.  Neither  the  distilled  water  nor  spirit  had  any 
remarkable  taste  or  smell. 

The  red  colour  of  saunders  appears  to  be  no  other  than  a 
concentrated  yellow,  for  by  bare  dilution  it  becomes  yellow. 
A  grain  of  the  resinous  extract,  dissolved  in  an  ounce  of  rec- 
tified spirt,  tinges  it  red,  but  this  solution,  nnxt  with  a  quart 
ef  fresh  spirit,  give  only  a  yellow  hue-  Hoffman  reports  that 
this  resin  does  not  give  a  tincture  to  any  kind  of  oil.  1  have 
tried  five  oils,  those  of  amber,  turpentine,  almonds,  anni- 
seeds,  and  lavender.  It  gave  no  colour  to  the  two  first,  but 
a  deep  red  to  the  last,  and  a  paler  red  to  the  other  two. 

OF  YELLOW  WOODS  ji.XD  DRUGS. 

OF  these  I  shall  make  but  few  remarks  as  they  have  been 
■vs-ell  explained  in  the  preceding. 

Of  Wi  Id. — Weld  is  a  plant  that  may  be  cultivated  among 
us ;  it  is  two  seasons  coming  to  maturity  and  mvwt  be  cut 


Oyer's  coiipanio^t.  263 

aad  cured  when  in  the  bloom  or  blossom,  and  dried  without 
wet  and  put  up  in  casKS  for  use  :  this  gives  the  best  and 
inost  permanent  yellow. 

OF  FUSTIC. 

FUSTIC  is  the  wood  or  species  of  mulberry-tree,  prow- 
ipg  in  Jamaica  and  Brazil,  called  by  Sir  Hans  S/oane, 
jyiorus  Fructu  Vjndi  Ligno  Sulji/rureo  Tinctorio.  It  is  r.f  a 
deep  sulphur  yellow  coK'ur,  which  it  readily  gives  out  both 
to  water  and  spirit.  The  watery  decoction  dyes  prepared 
woollen  of  a  very  durable  oranpe  y  elh  w  :  the  crhmr  is  im- 
bibed by  the  cloth  in  a  moderate  warmth  without  boiling. 

The  fustet  or  fustel  of  the  French  is  a  yellow  wood  or 
root  very  different  trom  our  fustic  It  gives  a  fine  orange 
dye  to  woollen,  but  the  colour  is  extremely  perishable  in  the 
air  The  plant  grows  wild  in  Italy  and  Provence,  and  is 
cultivated  with  us  in  gardens  on  account  of  the  be;>uty  ot  its 
fldwers  It  is  culled  Venice  fiumach,coti7ius  cotiarh,  cocci' 
gna  ;  cotvius   7nctthtoti,  C  B. 

As  to  yellow  wood,  green  wood,  turmeric,  &C.I  shall  mak6 
»o  further  remarks. 

Of  Log-wood  as  a  colouring  drug: 

LOGWOOD  or  Campeachy  wood  (Lignum  Brazile^ 
sV7iilc,  caeruleo  tivgens,  J  B.  is  the  wood  ot  a  low  prickly 
tree,  which  grows  plentifully  about  Campeachy  or  the  Bay 
of  Honduras,  and  has  of  late  been  introduced  into  some  of 
the  warmer  of  the  British  plantations,  particularly  Jamaica. 
It  is  a  native  of  the  low  marshy  places.  The  wood  comes 
over  in  pretty  lai  ge  logs,  cleartd  from  the  bark.  It  is  very 
hard,  compact,  heavy,  and  of  a  red  colour. 

Logwood  gives  out  its  colour  both  to  watery  and  spir- 
ituous menstrua,  but  not  readily  to  either  without  boiling;  it 
requires  to  be  chopped  fine  or  ground,  and  damped  with 
water  a  month  or  two  before  use.  xvhen  it  gives  more  co- 
lour and  is  easior  extracted-  Rectified  spirit  extracts  the 
colour  more  easily,  and  from  a  larger  proportion  of  the  wood 
than  water  does. 

The  tinctures  both  in  water  and  in  spirit  are-of  a  fine  red, 
with  an  admixture,  particularly  in  tlie  watery  one,  of  a 
violet  or  purple.  Volatile  alkaline  salts  or  spirits  incline 
the  colour  more  to  purple.  The  vegetable  and  nitrous 
acids  render  it  pale,  the  vitriolic  and  marine  acidsdeepen  it. 

The  watery  decoction,  wrote  with  on  paper,  loses  its  red- 
ness in  a  few  days  and  becomes  wholly  violet.  This  colour 
it  communicates  also  to  woolle:i  cloth  previously  prepar- 
ed by  boiling  with  a  solution  of  allum  and  tartar  The  dye 
is  beautiful,  but  very  perishable.  It  is  often  used  by  the 
dyers  as  an  ingredient  in  compound  colour,  for  procuring 
certain  shades  which  are  not  easily  hit  by  other  materials.' 


266  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

With  chalybeate  solutions  it  strikes  a  black.  Hence  it  is 
employed  in  conjunction  with  those  liquors  for  staining 
•wood  black  for  picture  frames,  ^c.  and  with  the  addition  of 
galls  for  dying  cloth  and  hats  black.  The  black  dyes  ia 
•which  this  wood  is  an  ingredient,  have  a  particular  lustre 
and  softness,  far  beyond  those  made  with  vitriol  and  galls 
alone.  The  beauty  however  ^vhich  it  here  imparts  is  not 
permanent,  any  more  than  its  own  natural  violet  dye. 

On  the  same  principle  it  improves  also  the  lustre  and 
blackness  of  writing  ink.  Ink  made  with  vitriol  and  galls 
does  not  attain  to  its  full  blackness,  till  after  it  has  lain 
some  time  upon  the  paper  A  due  addition  of  logwood  ren- 
ders it  of  a  deep  black  as  its  flows  from  the  pen  especially 
■whci  vinegar  or  white  wine  is  used  for  the  menstruum. 

Dococtions  and  extracts  made  from  logwood  have  an 
agreeable  sweetish  taste,  followed  by  a  slight  astringency. 
Tl^ey  have  lately  been  introduced  into  medicine,  and  given 
■with  success  in  cases  where  m.ild  restringents  are  required. 
They  often  tinge  the  stools,  and  sometimes  the  urine  of  A 
red  colour. 

Of  Copperas  or  Green  Vitriol. — Copperas  is  an  extract  of 
iron  corroded  by  acids,  commonly  old  rusty  iron  and  vine- 
gar, this  is  the  reason  of  its  containing  so  great  a  proportion 
of  earth,  and  congeals  into  a  salt ;  as  a  substitute  for  copperas 
take  of  the  filings  of  iron,  and  put  them  in  vinegar  and  let  it 
stand  a  month,  you  will  have  a  much  purer  darkening  sub- 
stance. The  bestcopperasis  the  brown,  or  that  which  appears 
to  be  mouldv,  it  is  the  cream  of  the  mineral ;  the  deep  green 
•will  make  the  brightest  blues  and  browns,  but  is  not  so 
strong  as  the  other  and  will  not  make  so  good  a  black  ; 
that  of  a  pal<-  green  colour  is  worth  but  little.  The  iron  is 
corroded  with  different  acids,  as  oil  of  vitriol,  kc.  and  will 
answer  no  purpose  in  dying  :  copperas  ought  to  be  kept  in 
a  cellf  r  where  it  is  not  veiy  damp  uor  open  that  tlie  acid 
may  evap  n-ate. 

O.  Nut  Galls  —Nut  galls  are  of  great  use  in  dying  black 
and  greys ;  galls  are  the  basis  in  the  ground  preparatory'  to 
all  cotton  dying,  except  blue,  the  astringency  of  the  galls 
becomes  affixed  on  the  body  of  the  cotton,  and  the  colouring 
substance  immediately  adheres  to  it.  The  galls  come  from 
Aleppo  and  Smyrna  ;  the  Aleppo  galls  are  generally  the 
best,  they  come  higlily  charged,  and  are  not  so  much  used 
as  they  ought  to  be  in  dying  :  some  barks  may  be  substitut- 
ed, as  will  be  mentioned  ;  our  oak  galls  gathered  and  cur- 
ed in  their  season  will  answer  nearly  the  same  pur- 
pose, and  it  is  wished  that  those  who  have  oak  groves  would 
gather  them,  that  they  may  be  brou'^ht  into  use. 

Of  Sumac  — Sumac  is  a  crooked  shrub  with  spreading 
branches  of  different  heiglits,  and  grows  spontaneously  in 


dyer's  companion.  267 

many  parts  of  the  country.  It  is  used  in  three  different 
■ways ;  when  the  wood  is  used  only,  the  bark  and  sap  must 
be  shaved  off,  as  there  is  a  glutinous  balsam  in  the  sap  and 
bark  which  will  adhere  to  the  cloth  and  will  form  a  resm, 
that  will  have  a  bad  effect  on  the  goods ;  the  other  methods 
are  to  cut  the  sprouts  and  branches  with  the  bobs  or  berries 
of  one  season's  growth,  make  or  cure  them  as  you  would  hay, 
without  wet,  and  put  them  up  for  use  ;  in  the  third  method 
the  process  is  the  same  in  cutting  and  curing,  it  is  then  con- 
veyed to  the  sumac  factory,  where  it  is  manufactured  and 
put  in  casks  ;  this  is  the  best  for  common  use.  It  never 
ought  to  be  used  green,  on  account  of  the  gum,  which  evapo- 
rates or  disappears  in  the  curing  and  manufacturing.  The 
wood  is  useful  in  drabs;  and  the  manufactured  in  blacks^ 
browns,  &c 

OF  BJRKS  LY  GEJVEEAL. 

BUTTERNUT  bark  is  the  best  colouring  substance  in 
North  America,  it  will  give  a  variety  of  shades,  and  if  used 
riglit  its  colour  is  durable ;  it  is  good  in  many  browns  but 
not  in  black.  It  is  best  to  use  it  when  green,  through 
the  autumn  and  winter  seasons  ;  the  wood  ought  to  be  cut 
in  the  last  of  November,  tor  the  winter's  use,  and  housed, 
and  the  bark  shaved  off  as  you  want  to  use  it ;  in  using  it,  it 
should  be  cut  fine,  put  it  in  the  boiler  and  put  a  fire  under 
it  the  day  before  you  begin  your  colouring,  that  the  liquor 
may  be  warm  ;  immerse  the  goods  when  it  is  as  hot  as  you 
can  bear  the  hand  ;  never  suffer  it  to  boil,  and  the  colour 
will  be  permanent,  but  if  it  boils  the  colour  will  not  be  so 
bright,  the  shade  will  be  differc  nt  and  the  colour  will  not  be 
lasting.  In  the  Spring  when  the  bark  will  slip,  peel  the 
bark  from  the  trees,  for  the  Summer's  use,  and  house  it  im- 
mediately after  peeling ;  never  cure  it  in  the  sun  ;  after  it  is 
dry  it  may  be  boiled,  yet  the  colour  will  not  be  so  lasting; 
by  using  it  green  and  dry ,  boiling  and  not  boiling,  and  by  cut- 
ting it  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  you  may  produce  a 
number  of  shades,  from  agdiirk  smoke  to  an  orange  and  flesh 
colonr.    It  is  good  in  smokes,  olives  and  snuff' colours. 

Of  Yellow  Oak  bark. —  This  bark  gives  a  lasting  colour  and 
is  good  green  or  dry,  but  better  if  prepared  as  for  tanners, 
or  rasped  and  ground  ;  it  is  excellent  in  black,  very  good  in 
olives,  and  is  a  clean  substance. 

Of  Walnut  orHckory  bark  — This  is  much  the  same  as 
the  oak  bark,  but  its  colour  is  brighter,  the  dye  of  this  bark 
is  durable  and  will  answer  the  same  jmrpcseasthe  oak:  the 
rind  or  husks  of  the  nut  are  most  excellent. 

Of  White  Oak  bark — This  is  a  most  excellent  bark  on 
account  of  its  astrin^encv,  its  colour  is  lasting  and  may  be 
used  in  any  dye  that  galls  are  used  in  as  a  substitute  after  it 
•is  dry  and  ground  as  for  tanners. 


268  APPENDIX  TO   tHfi 

Of  Alder  bark.— This  bark  is  good  and  its  impression  is 
durnblf  ;  it  is  good  in  black  and  aim  ist  all  dark  colours  ; 
by  filling  up  the  gi'ound  of  the  colour  it  leaves  it  bright. 

Of  Hemlock  bark. — Hemlock  is  a  very  good  bark  for 
colouring,  the  rap  should  be  taken  off;  it  is  good  green  oc 
dry  ;  in  light  browns  it  gives  a  colour  of  a  reddish  cast 

Ot  Yellow  Birch,  White  Ash  and  Sassafrasbarks  — These 
are  good  in  light  browns  and  ash  colours,  if  us«d  right ;  the 
colours  will  be  clear  and  beautiful,  and  they  will  leave  the 
cloth  soft  and  nice. 

Of  Chesnut,  Maple  and  White  Birch  barks. — These 
produce  beautiful  bro'ivns  very  ouich  alike  ;  they  answer  in 
greys,  but  the  colour  soon  fades.  It  is  to  be  ob«erved  that 
bark  of  the  roots  and  the  rinds  of  the  nuts,  give  much  more 
colour  than  the  barks  of  the  bodies  and  may  be  used  the 
same  as  their  re.'ipective  tre^s. 

To  preserve  Dye- Stuffs  Jrom  injury. 

STRICT  utteniion  oui^ht  tobt  paid  to  thisbranch  of  busi- 
ness, as  s  ime  dye-stuff  will  loose  all  Its  valuable  qualities, 
and  S"me  by  collecting  filth  and  dirt  become  useless.  Wood 
in  the  stick  of  all  kinds  ought  to  be  kept  in  a  dry  celler, 
raised  from  the  ground  and  kept  from  dirt ;  all  yellow  wood 
when  chipped  or  ground  ought  to  be  put  in  casks  and  ex  • 
eluded  from  the  air.  Camwood  and  logwood  whether  chip- 
ped or  ground  ouijht  to  stand  open  in  casks,  and  be  kept 
clean  as  it  improves  by  the  air  in  a  dry  celler ;  copperas 
may  be  treated  ihe  same  way.  Madder,  woad,  indigo,  and 
all  aleotics  should  be  kfept  in  a  celler  and  excluded  the 
air,  as  it  destroys  all  their  active  volatile  substances.    All 

Ereparaiory  salts  and  colouring  drui^s  ought  to  have  close 
oxes.  to  keep  out  the  dirt  and  air.  All  liquid  substances 
must  be  put  in  glass  bottles,  stopped  close  with  glass  or  wax 
stoppers  Galls  and  all  rinds  and  bnrks  require  to  be  kept 
in  some  dry  place,  or  they  will  be  liable  to  mould  and  mil- 
dew, which  will  destroy  all  their  colouring  substances,  &c. 
The  Cultivation  ofTeaeles. 
TEASLES  are  the  most  useful  an.l  necessary  to  dress 
fine  cloth  well,  and  without  them  cloth  cannot  be  well  nap- 
ped, or  a  good  pile  or  b  idy  raised.  Among  common  cloth- 
dressers  they  are  but  little  u.sed  or  their  value  known,  I  may 
say  they  are  not  used-the  tenth  purt  of  what  they  ought  to  be. 
This  plant  is  very  prijductive  both  in  burs  and  se<  ds,  and 
is  easily  cultivated;  the  seeds  ought  to  be  sown  tir  planted 
CHvly  m  the  spring  ;  they  are  two  s  asons  growing  to  ma- 
turity ;  when  the  plants  becomes  large  enough  to  transpl  mt, 
set  them  in  moist  rich  ground,  about  eighteen  inches  apart, 
hoe  them,  and  keep  them  clear  from  weeds ;  during  the 
suiimer  they  will  have  fifteen  or  twenty  long  rou^h leaves; 
before  winter,  before  it  freezes  hard>  cover  tiie  plants  with 
brush,  and  spread  straw  over  them,  as  soon  as  wint«r  breaks 


dyer's   COMPANION'.  269 

talce  off  the  brush  and  straw,  and  when  the  weeds  arise, 
!joe  them  twice  or  thrice,  by  Jutie  they  will  begii:  to  staik 
and  branch  out  in  various  branches  ;  from  the  stalk  co.>  es 
out  long  leaves  within  six  or  eight  inches  of  each  other,  and 
fonn  around  the  stalk,  resembling  a  dish  witii  iWii  long  han- 
dles, and  standing  erect ;  in  this  bowl  or  bason  ^pri.^g  two 
other  stalks;  it  supplies  itself  with  water  by  rains  and 
dews  in  this  bowl  ;  upon  the  end  of  each  branch  is  a  bur, 
some  one  and  a  half  inches  dian\eter,  and  four  inches  long, 
so  in  different  grades,  some  not  larger  than  the  end  of  tlie 
finj;er:  a  plant  frequently  produces  one  hundred  and  fifty- 
burs,  of  which  fifty  will  be  fit  for  use;  they  rise  from  three 
to  four  feet ;  the  bur  is  curiously  set,  resembling  the 
honey-comb,  with  very  sharp  points,  hooking  towards  the 
stalks.  Vfter  the  blossoms  have  fallen  off,  is  the  time  to 
cut  them,  within  about  six  inches  of  the  stalks,  dry  thena 
veil,  and  keep  them  from  wet,  as  the  water  will  ruiii  them 
after  they  are  cut  and  laid  down  ;  the  bur  sheds  its  water 
while  on  the  stalk:  by  this  method  the  factories  and  cluth- 
dressers  may  supply  themselves  with  the  most  useful  imple- 
^ments  for  dres&hig  cloth  :  the  mode  of  using  them  is  well 
known,  and  how  they  ought  to  be  used  will  be  explained  in 
the  sequel,  it  is  but  a  short  time  since  they  have  become 
a  matter  of  note  and  speculation  aniong  us.  1  know  of  a 
man,  who  raised  one  crop  of  teasles  on  half  an  acre  of 
ground,  which  he  sold  at  wholesale  to  the  dealers  for  Four 
Hundred  Dollars  :  now  my  friends  use  economy,  save  your 
jnoncy  and  raise  your  own  teasles,  and  you  will  have  tliem 
"when  you  want  them  :  if  you  once  get  in  the  use  of  them 
and  have  any  desire  to  have  jour  work  look  well,  you  will 
never  lie  without  them  ;  they  are  nature's  cards,  and  nature 
lias  provided  more  than  wc  can  by  art. 

CHAP  viir. 

0/  Sorting  Wool. 
THIS  is  an  important  branch  in  manufacturing  woolieft 
cloth,  as  there  are  more  than  one  liundred  different  qualities 
of  wool :  every  fleece  ough:  to  be  divided  in  four  parcels,  that 
on  the  neck  and  fore  shoulders  of  the  sheep,  is  the  finest  ; 
that  on  the  back  and  partly  on  the  sides*  the  next ;  on  the 
bell V,  the  chird;  on  the  legs  and  hinder  parts,  the  fourth;  . 
in  this  form,  the  wool  ought  to  be  assorted,  from  all  specK'S  '' 
of  sheep.  Among  the  different  species  of  sheep,  are  ths 
merino,  full  and  part  blood,  the  English,  the  common,  the 
Vienna,  the  cape  sheep,  &c.;  from  these  sheep  we  have  al- 
most innumerable  qualities  of  wool,  which  ought  to  b  well 
assorted,  and  kept  separ  ite  for  their  several  us-s.  The.  b  st 
WO',  for  su|)erfi  le  'jroid  :Ioth,  is  the  thick  set.  fine  and  curly 
iwool,  and  is  the  worst  to  work  ;  the  second  pick  of  tht  lulS 
A  a 


27<l  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

blood  is  proper  to  match  with  the  first  pick  of  the  lialf  blood  ; 
following  this  rule,  except  that  what  is  on  the  legs  and  rump 
of  the  sheep,  which  is  only  fit  for  listing,  carpeting  and 
coarse  cloth-  There  is  another  quality  of  wool,  long,  silky 
and  open,  this  onght  to  be  combed  into  worsted  ;  from  this 
proceeds  a  variety  of  qualities,  that  may  be  wrought  into 
cloth  for  light  weaving :  there  is  still  another  very  coarse 
find  hairy  wool,  this  ought  to  be  wrought  mto  cloth,  tor  bear- 
skin, lion-skin  and  baises.  Lamb's  wool  should  be  made  in- 
to cloth  for  flannels,  of  various  qualities,  it  v.illbemuch 
whiter,  wiil  felt  better  in  the  mill  and  nap  much  easier.  It 
reqwires  strict  attention  and  good  judgment  to  assort  wool; 
en  the  assorter  depends  all  the  beauty  or  ground  of  manu- 
facturing cloth  ;  by  mixing  coarse  and  fine  together  you 
liave  no  distinction  in  the  quality  ;  one  pound  of  coarse  wool 
is  enough  to  destroy  the  quality  of  ten  pounds  of  fine,  &c. 
Of  Scouring  or  Washing  of  fVool. 

This  is  another  very  important  brunch,  and  very  much  ne" 
fleeted  for  three  reasons:  first,  the  wool  iu  its  natural  state  is 
possessed  not  only  with  the  animaloil.butasort  of  gum  which 
preserves  the  wool  on  the  animal,  it  keeps  out  the  inclemen- 
cy ot  the  weather,  the  heat  of  the  sun,  &c.     If  not  divested 
of  this  before  use  it  gums  and  gluts  the  wool  and  cards,  it 
forms  with  the  oil  that  is   applied  for  carding,   a  sticking 
glutinous  gum  which  destroys  the  active  life  of  the  wool  ; 
It  wiil  spin  slubby  and  you  cannot  have  good  yarn   Second,  if 
the  wool  is  to  be  coloured  it  is  very  injurious  to  many  dyes,  and 
it  requires  strict  attention  from  the  dytr,  as  it  will  soon  over- 
set the  blue  d\e,  and  that  is  one  thing  why  so  many  fail 
5n  their  blues.    And  thirdly,  to  admit  it  never  injures  any 
dye  ;  there  is  another  objection,   if  the  wool  is  coloured 
^vith  any  part  of  the  gum  and  animal  oil,  it  forms  a  sort  of 
resin  that  becomes  affixed  in  the  bodies  and  fibres  of  the 
•wool  by  the  hot  liquor,  and  never  can  be  removed ;  and  the 
colour  wiil  remain  only  superficial.  From  this  the  dyers,  and 
manufacturers  may  learn  the  cause  of  their  cloths  Clocking, 
There    are  different  modes  of   scouring  wool  in  prac- 
tice, I  shall  describe  all  thf>se  worthy  of  notice ;    but  first 
point  out  the  way  I  conceive  to  be  the  beat,  and  the  mode 
generally  practised  in  Europe,   and  in  the  best  manufac- 
torits  in  the  V"'ted  Stales  of  America. 

In  the  first  place  you  ou.ht  to  provide  yourself  with  a 
boiler  that  will  hold  three  barrels^  it  is  better  to  have  it  of 
cast  iron,  as  the  alkali  and  aniti.al  oil  will  corrode  the 
copper ;  have  this  set  near  your  stream  of  running  water,  or 
jT'  ur  large  cistern  that  will  contain  two  hundred  hogsheads 
of  water,  for  tl^e  convenience  ot  rincing  ;  reference  ought 
to  be  had  tor  convenience  ot  working  and  heating,  and  fur- 
ther they  both  ought  to  be  set  with  a  rooi  over  the  sap  and 
ppea  to  the  aides,  that  the  air  may  pass  through  ;  other wisr 


DYER^S  COMPANION.  271 

the  volatile  substance  of  the  urine  will  nearly  take  the  breath, 
let  it  stiind  adjoining  the  wash-house,  or  rincine;  place ;  then 
have  a  wash-box  made  tour  feet  deep  and  four  feet  square, 
with  a  sieve  or  strainer  about  one  foot  from  the  bottom,  with 
agate  or  sluice  way  to  take  the  water  out  at  pleasure.  Some 
use  a  basket  for  rincing  this  is  not  as  good  or  convenient. 
Have  your  box  placed  so  you  may  easily  let  the  water  into  it, 
have  another  box  like  a  sieve  at   the  bottom  to  ca^-t  the 
■wool  in,  to  drain  after  rincing.    If  you  wish  to  make  des- 
patch in  drying,  have  a  press  with  a  screw  to  squeeze  the 
water  all  out  and  spn  ad   it  out  immediately  to  drv.   The 
scouring  of  wool  is  properly  the  care  of  the  dyers,  let  it  be 
for  what  colour  it  will,  the  filth  and  natural  oil  of  the  wool 
ought  to  be  extracted  audit  divested  of  all  the  gum  The  na- 
tural oil  which  adheres  to  the  wool  preserves  it  in  the  ware- 
houses and  also  from  moths.    The  process  is  as  follows,  to 
eighteen  pails  full  of  water  put  six  pails  full  of  fermented 
sig  or  urine,  mix  them  together  in  the  boiler,  heat  as  hot  as 
you  can  bear  the  hand  in  it  without  scalding;  lake  twenty 
pounds  of  wool  stir  thisgently  to  and  fro  with  sticks  for  that 
purpose  about  fifteen  minutes,  keeping  the  heat  the  same  ; 
take  it  up  in  a  basket,  squeeze  the  liquor  from  the  wool  into 
the  boiler,  then  cast  it  while  warm  into  the  wash-box,  set 
the  cold  water  to  it,   stir  it  backward   and  forward  wuh 
sticks  so  as  to  keep  the  wool  open  ;  then  drain  ofiF  this  wa- 
ter, fill  the  box  again  with  fair  water,  stir  as  before  till  the 
•wool  isall  open  and  clean;  then  with  apole  takethe  wool  out 
and  cast  it  in  the  other  box  to  drain  ;  while  this  is  rincing 
another  draught  may  be  put  in  the  boiler  and  tlius  proceed 
till  the  whole  is  scoured:  as  the  liq'.ior  wastes  fresh  is  to  be 
added  of  one  part  sig  and  two  parts  water,  but  if  the  urine 
isstrong  and  old  you  may  add  three  parts  water.  A  man  will 
in  this  way  i:;enerally  scour  a  bale  of  wool  in  a  day,  if  it 
■weighs  two  hundred  and  fiity  pounds  in  the  fat;  it  generally 
less  looses  sixty  pounds  in  scouring,  bxit  the  diminution  o£ 
■weight  vanes    in  proportion  to   the   wool  being  more  or 
sc<jured,  and  in  proportion  to  the  more  or  less  fat  contain- 
ed therein  ;  too  much  attention  cannot  be  paid  to  scouring 
as  it  is  better  disposed  for  the  reception  of  the  dves.     This 
is  the  best  method  in  scouring  and  is  followed  in   the  manu- 
factory of  Audley  in  Normandy,  where  clths  are  beautifully 
m  nufactured. 

A  solution  of  soap  and  water  cleans  the  wool  of  the  filth 
and  oil;  there  is  one  objection  to  th's,  it  felts  the  wool. 
Another  method  comes  nearest  to  the  urine,  to  twenty-four 
pails  full  of  water  take  four  ounces  pearlash  and  two  ounces 
oil  of  vitriol,  the  vitriol  neutralizes  the  pearlash  and  gives  life 
to  the  wool  and  leaves  it  clean;  following  the  same  process  in 
cleaning  as  bef  ire  mentioned,  tht-  vitriol  is  a  mineral  oil.  and 
forming  a  solution  with  the  veijetable  alkali,  of  these  it 


272  APPENDIX    TO    THE 

forms  a  connection  near  in  substance  to  the  animal  alkaU 
•f  fernneiitcd  urjne>  See. 

Of  Manufacturing  Cloth. 
BUT  little  remains  to  be  said  on  this  subject,  more  than 
•wh:it  is  given  in  the  preceding  uvork.  After  the  wool  is 
scoured  and  dved,  h:ive  it  looked  over,  take  from  it  all  the 
burs >tnd  dirt,  and  clip  all  the  dead  ends  ;  to  sixteen  pounds 
of  wool  take  tw(^  pounds  of  sweet  or  good  sperm  oil ;  then 
pick  with  the  picker  or  hand,  to  mix  the  oil  with  the  wool 
to  It-ave  it  open  ;  then  card  it  into  rolls  with  a  machine,  or 
by  hand  cards-,  your  cards  reqviire  to  be  in  fineness  to  your 
wool ;  from  thence  have  it  spun  into  yarn,  the  waff  or  filling 
slack  twisted  ;  then  weave  it  into  cloth ;  have  it  sleighed 
according  to  tlie  fineness  of  the  yarn,  and  closed  to  make  it 
squire  as  much  Avaff  and  warp.  Be  caiitious  in  having  good 
list  varn,  and  make  a  good  list  two  inches  wide  for  broad 
eloth:  this  list  is  of  no  use  onlv  to  the  millnian.  dyer  and  fin- 
jshf-r,  and  chth  that  is  to  be  milled  cannot  be  handsomely 
finished  without  the  list ;  after  the  cloths  are  wove,  if  they 
are  not  ready  to  mill  ihev  must  be  overhauled  every  week 
or  ten  days,  to  give  them  air  and  keep  theni  from  mildew  ; 
the  oil  and  size  collects  dampness  and  causes  a  heat  or  fer- 
mentation which  will  mildew  without  air,  and  destroy  the 
lite  of  the  wool  ;  when  the  cloth  is  wove  have  it  burled  or 
picked  of  all  the  knots,  burs  and  doublers  carefully,  then  it 
^vill  be  fit  for  the  mill 

Of  Millnig  Cloth. 

OF  the  fulling  mill — There  are  various  forms  in  use,  and 
the  most  of  them  badly  constructed,  yet  I  shall  give  no  form, 
but  let  every  millnian  follow  his  own  choice;  I  will  only 
remark  that  the  falling  mill  rghtly  constructed,  makes  the 
firmest  and  best  cloth,  and  is  the  most  difficult  mill  to  tend  ; 
the  crank  mills  are  the  best  to  scour  and  wash,  are  less  lia- 
ble to  damai^e  and  are  easier  tended-  On  the  whole,  the 
crank  mill  oue,ht  to  have  the  preference.  There  are  differ- 
ent forms  of  milling  and  scouring,  and  some  of  them  are  so 
bad  that  themillman  ought  to  be  brought  to  the  seat  of  jus- 
tice and  prosecuted  for  fraud,  or  barred  the  privilege  of  mill- 
ing. They  will  full  their  cloths  in  lies,  because  this  method 
is  cheaper  than  soap  :  this  is  a  pernicious  way  of  doing  busi- 
ness ;  the  cloth  will  be  rough,  brittle  and  will  not  do  half 
the  service,  as  if  fulled  in  snap  ;  the  lie  will  start  the  grease; 
he  only  saves  to  himself  a  few  cents  while  he  robs  the  com- 
munity of  many  dollars.  Some  full  the  cloth  in  the  grease, 
till  it  is  sufficiently  milled  ;  this  is  a  bad  practice,  it  will  leave 
the  cloth  loose,  and  it  does  not  uniformly  unite  in  felting ;  you 
cannot  have  firm,  well  milled  cloths  in  this  way,  alihr  ugh  it 
will  appear  thick.  Some  leave  grease  in  cloths  aft-r  they 
are  milled ;  this  is  a  piece  of  insufferable  deceit  and  sloven- 


dyer's  companion^  273 

i«^S ;  when  in  the  cold  air,  such  cloths  will  appear  to  be 
thick  and  firm,  when  warm  they  will  be  limsy  and  emit  a 
foetid  nasty  smell  ;  you  cannot  make  a  bright  colour  on 
them  ;  they  will  smut,  and  never  can  be  finished  handsome, 
will  always  be  catching  dirt,  and  will  not  do  half  the  service 
as  when  cleansed  from  the  grease. 

I  shall  now  give  the  mode  I  practise,  and  the  general 
mode  practised  in  England  and  France  The  stock  of  cloth 
ought  to  be  in  propoition  to  your  mill,  and  the  mill  so  con- 
structed as  to  turn  the  cloth  gradually,  every  time  the  ham- 
mer fetches  up  to  the  stock  For  the  first  milling  or  scour- 
ing the  filth  and  grease  out  of  ihe  cloth,  to  fift\  yards  of  broad 
cloth  or  eighty  pounds  weight,  take  two  pounds  of  pearlash, 
dissolve  in  one  gallon  of  warm  rain  or  river  water  ;  then 
take  eight  gallons  of  well  fermented  urine,  mix  it  together, 
sprinkle  it  carefully  and  evenly  over  the  cloth  till  the  liquor 
is  all  on,  then  lay  it  in  the  mill,  let  run  one  hour,  take  out, 
handle  over  and  speedily  lay  it  in  again,  let  it  run  one  and  aa 
half  hours  ;  take  it  out  and  stretch  the  cloth  all  over ;  lay  it 
in  again,  run  till  it  forms  in  a  proper  body  for  miJlini:;  ;  then 
turn  into  the  mill  gradually  five  or  six  pails  full  of  warm  wa- 
ter, as  warm  as  you  can  bear  the  hand  in  ;  when  it  is  all  in  a 
lather,  let  the  cold  water  run  on  the  cloth,  till  all  the  sig, 
filth  and  grease  is  washed  out :  if  the  cloth  twists  and  binds 
up,  so  that  it  does  not  run  regular,  hand  over,  lay  it  in  again 
and  rince  till  clean  ;  then  take  it  out  on  a  scray,  hang  it  cut 
to  dry  ;  when  dry.  take  it  to  the  burling  board,  look  the 
stock  of  cloth  all  over,  pick  all  the  knots,  burs,  and  cotton 
or  linen  specks,  that  remains  in  the  cloth  of  the  second 
burling;  at  this  time  after  scouring  may  be  seen  all  the 
defects,  that  will  be  injurious  in  finishing,  as  no  burling  evtv 
ought  to  be  done  after  the  milling  is  finished:  this  is  the  first 
milling  or  scouring  it,  and  divesting  it  of  the  filth  and 
grease. 

^inothev  method  about  as  good  for  scouring. 

TAKE  for  a  stock  as  before,  eight  gallons  of  good  soft 
soap,  eight  gaHons  of  hot  water,  and  eight  gallons  of  sig, 
mix  them  together;  sprinkle  it  over  the  cloth,  when  as  warm 
as  you  can  bear  the  hand,  sufficient  to  wet  the  cloth,  let  run 
in  ihe  mill,  till  all  has  receiveil  the  liquor  equally,  say  ten 
minutes;  take  out,  hand  over,  double  up  close  and  let  lay 
eight  or  ten  hours ;  then  lay  it  in  the  mill,  run  one  hour,  ana 
manage  as  in  the  preceding,  and  it  \sill  divest  the  cloths  of 
their  filth,  grease,  &c. :  when  it  is  dry  and  burled,  it  is  ready 
for  the  second  milling.  Take  for  a  stock  as  before  describ- 
ed, white  hard  sonp  as  made  at  Roxbury  without  rosin,  as 
the  rosm  is  injurious  to  the  cloth ;  it  gluts  and  hardens  the 
wool,  that  it  will  not  appear  fine  Take  of  white  soap,  six 
pounds  shaved  up  fii  e,  put  in  a  tub,  add  seven  gallons  of 
hot  water,  (but  not  boilings,  stir  till  the  soap  is  all  dissolved-; 


274  APPENDIX   TO  THE 

^hen  it  is  as  warm  as  you  can  bear  the  hand,  sprinkle  it 
carefully  over  the  cloth  by  Lttlc  and  li  tie  ;  lay  it  in  the  mill, 
let  it  run  one  hour ;  if  not  wet  enouj^h  add  a  little  more 
soap,  but  be  cauti^^us  andnoi  have  it  toowtt  y  b  it  retards  the 
niiliing  aud  the  cloth  will  not  be  as  firni  :  have  it  so  wet  that 
you  may  easily  wiing  out  the  soap  with  thv  thumb  and  finger  ; 
as  it  driea  and  requires  soap,  add  p  orp  ;  ireqvieniiy  hand- 
ling over  aad  stretching  the  cloth,  that  it  may  not  grow  or 
adhere  ;  have  your  eye  at  tht-  mil!,  handle  over  whenever 
it  does  not  turn  well,  stretch  once  in  an  hour  and  a  half  or 
two  hours,  and  add  s.iap  as  it  is  wanted,  till  all  the  soap  that 
is  prepared  is  on  if  required  :  man-ige  in  this  manner  till  you 
have  brought  your  cloth  to  a  right  thickness  and  it  is  well 
milled,  or  to  the  length  and  breadth  requii'ed.  When  it  is 
milled  to  your  likin,^  pour  a  few  pails  ot  warm  w.iter  gently 
on  the  cloths,  then  rince  with  cold  water  till  all  the  soap  is 
extracted  and  the  water  nins  clear  and  clean  from  the  mill 
and  cloth  ;  take  it  out,  stretch  and  lay  it  smooth :  when  it  is 
ready  for  dressin;:  or  finishing. 

S.ime  use  soft  soap  for  milling,  but  this  is  a  bad  practice, 
as  it  is  too  sharp  and  fiery,  and  raises  the  wool  ton  much  > 
the  cloth  will  be  loose  and  sp\mg.\  ;  the  white  hard  soap  is 
the  reverse,  it  will  make  the  cloth  firm,  use  as  much  as  it 
iviU  bear  and  the  clotii  •■. il'bf  nnich  better  and  firmer. 
OfFimshing  Cloth. ' 
NOT  much  more  reiuains  lo  be  said,  than  what  has 
been  sa;d  in  the  former  work  ;  there  are  various  forms  \n 
practice,  the  same  may  be  said  with  respect  to  tools  and 
machinery.  Let  every  workman  fix  on  his  own  form  ;  but 
this  much  may  be  said,the  beauty  of  the  cloth  much  depends 
iifier  it  IS  well  milled  in  raising  the  nap,  '••nd  that  ought  to 
be  done  with  teasels  with  the  cloth  wtL  It  ought  for  a  su- 
perfine cloth  to  have  three  good  nappings,  so  as  to  have  the 
pile  cover  the  thread  every  time  after  shearing  ;  have  it 
sheared  even  and  close  twice  ;  every  time  you  raise  on  the 
face  side,  alwavs  raise  the  nap  one  way  of  the  cloth,  that  is 
leading  toward  the  mark ;  when  it  is  sheared  and  raised  the 
third  or  last  time  with  teasels  it  is  ready  for  dying.  If  not 
dyed  in  the  wool,  all  the  pile  should  be  raised  before  the 
cloth  is  dyed,  as  colouring  brittles  the  wo<.)l  and  you  can 
never  get  a  good  pile  a*ter  it  is  dyed;  when  dyed  and 
cleaned  from  the  dye  iituif,  lay  the  nap  with  good  limber 
•acks  out  of  warm  water  straight  and  smooth,  or  with  a  gig 
.IS  a  substitute  for  jacks,  teasels  may  be  used  in  a  gig  also  ; 
hen  stretch  it  on  tiie  bars  straight  and  smooth,  and  lay  the 
nap  with  a  lirush  when  wet,  tlien  sheer  again  twice  or  three 
limes  on  the-  face  as  it  requires  ;  observe  m  ver  to  shear  the 
lists  heading  and  footings,  shear  once  on  the  back  side,  look 
it  over  and  see  it  is  fvee  from  specks  and  defects  ;  then 
bnish  it  tiioroughly  with  a  brush  and  saad  beard,  or  emery' 


dver's  companion.  275 

Ijoard  with  it  a  little  dainped,  roll  it  hard  on  a  roller,  let  if: 
remain  six  hours  tlien  fokl  for  the  press.  If  fine  cloth  put 
it  in  good  smooth  press  papers  and  press  cold,  screw  it  very 
hard ;  if  coarse,  press  hot  and  do  not  screw  hard.  It  is  best 
for  ;i  factory  to  have  plates  cf  cast  iron  about  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  thick  to  pluce  between  each  dratt,  have  them 
made  in  sjze  to  the  papers;  put  between  each  draft  half 
the  size  of  the  papers,  heat  these  plates  in  a  stove  for  that 
purpose,  let  it  remain  in  the  press  twenty-four  hours,  thtn 
shift  the  fold  ;  press  as  before,  take  it  out  of  the  papers  and 
pack  fit  for  market. 

Of  Snlpfiuritiff  and  Wldtening  Woollen  Cloth. 
A  TIGH  r  convenient  room  is  neci  ssary  for  this  purpose, 
it  should  be  prepared  with  shutters  or  scupper  holes  which 
may  be  thrown  open  when  necessary ;  and  drive  tanter 
hooks  m  the  Joyce  within  six  or  eight  inches  of  each 
other;  for  every  hundred  weight  ol  woollen  cloth  take  six 
pounds  of  sulphur,  have  a  number  of  chafing-dishes  or  other 
vessels  for  that  purpose,  place  them  at  an  equal  distance 
from  each  other  on  th  floor,  put  about  half  a  i  ound  of  sul- 
phur in  each  vessel ;  then  have  your  go(>ds  prepared,  wet 
evenly  but  not  so  as  to  drip,  with  weak  soap-suds  of  white 
h^rd  soap,  then  hang  it  by  the  lists  straight  and  smooth 
on  the  hooks,  with  one  edge  l;anging  d(  wn  j-.nd  the  spaces 
between  each  piece  three  inches.  When  thus  prepared 
sprinkle  ashes  on  the  sulphur  and  set  fire  to  it,  shut  the  room 
tight  for  six  or  eight  hours,  then  throw  open  the  shutters  or 
scupper  holes  to  let  the  suljihureous  vapour  blow  off,  foy 
was  any  person  to  enter  such  a  room  before  it  is  ventulated 
he  would  be  in  danger  of  suffl.cating  :  by  this  procedure 
■woollen  cloth  may  be  rendered  as  white  as  India  shirting. 
I  will  give  a  few  reasons  for  this  effect,  the  sulphur  is  a 
mineral  possessed  ot  a  great  share  ol  acid,  and  the  acid 
evaporating  by  the  heat  seizes  immediately  on  the  bodv  of 
the  wool  and  makes  it  uniform  by  adding  to  those  parts  that 
have  not  sufficient  life  and  taking  from  those  that  have  too 
much,  andby  uniting  in  all  the  body  otthe  wool  equally,  when 
"it  enters  it  immediately  drives  riut  the  alkali  of  soap,  and  all 
the  glutinous  gum  of  the  animal ;  as  the  alkali  and  acid 
form  no  connection,  and  the  acid  will  corrode  the  alkah.;  it 
is  so  powerful  it  will  remove  all  dirt,  spots  and  defects  in 
the  cloth.  Wool  may  by  whitened  or  st  ved  in  the  same 
manner,  by  preparing  perches  to  suspend  the  wool  loose, 
and  it  is  wished  it  was  put  in  general  practice,  as  it  divest* 
it  of  all  the  crusty  dead  gum  which  retards  the  dying  by 
glutting  the  fibres  of  the  wool,  and  when  it  is  thus  stoved  it 
divests  the  wool  of  all  its  dead  substance  and  gives  it  a  unij 
form  life  :  the  wool  has  equal  life  in  all  the  bodies  if  you 
Invest  it  oi  this  dead  gum  ^vhich  is  not  equal  azid  uniform  j 


276  APPENDIX  TO  THE 

it  is  not  soluble  in  water  although  it  may  be  removed 
by  a  preparation  of  the  alkali,  as  the  alkali  will  dissolve 
the  gum,  but  if  too  powerful  will  destroy  the  bodies  and 
animal  life  of  the  wool,  instead  of  giving  life  ;  tlie  aeid 
if  too  powerful  will  have  near  the  same  effect ;  but  by- 
applying  'them  n  this  weak  and  mild  way  they  neutrahze 
each  other,  and  for  the  same  reason  it  may  be  used  by 
a  solution  of  the  same  qualities  and  avoid  the  smell  of 
brimstone  after  this  proportion,  to  every  thirty  gallons  of 
■water  take  one  pound  of  white  hard  soap,  or  two  ounces  of 
pearlash  heat  ihe  water  boiling  hot ;  then  add  four  ounces 
of  oil  of  vitriol,  run  your  goods  thirty  minutes  and  rince 
clean  in  the  mill.  Another  method  of  solution  for  whitening 
and  cleaning  woollen  goods  take  of  the  compound  as  for 
Prussian  blue  and  green,  only  add  double  the  quantity  of 
vitriol  you  do  for  green  ;  to  sixteen  pounds  take  two  tea- 
spoons full  of  compound,  add  warm  water  near  scalding 
hot,  mix  it  well  with  the  water  run  your  cloth  one  hour,  if 
it  does  not  blue  your  cloth  too  much  you  may  add  a  little 
more,  observe  not  to  blue  it  so  that  it  is  hardly  perceptable. 
This  is  the  beit  method  for  flannels  and  all  other  white  wool- 
len goods  that  are  to  be  worn  white,  as  it  remains  white 
much  lonj^er,  and  does  not  yellow  as  the  stoved.  The 
reason  of  this  is  the  fibres  are  a  little  filled  with  the  colouring 
atom  ;  while  on  the  othtr  hand,  the  bodies  are  all  open  and 
exposed  to  the  vapours  of  the  air  and  becomes  affixed 
the  same  as  on  the  animal,  and  are  not  soluble  by  water, 
but  must  be  removed  the  same  as  at  first,  &c. 

To  know  -when  Cloth  has  been  -well  JMilleJ,  Finished  and  Dyei. 

W  HEN  cloth  has  been  well  milled  <nd  finished  m  a  prop- 
er manner  it  will  be  soft  and  firm  ;  being  shorn  even,  it  will 
present  you  a  short  thick  nap  which  lies  smooth  in  one  reg- 
ular direction  ;  b\  drawing  the  hand  the  way  the  nap  in- 
clines it  will  feel  sleek  and  smooth  ;  move  thv  hand  the  re- 
verse the  nap  will  feel  rouKh  and  prickly  :  ii  the  cloth  will 
bear  this  inspection,  you  may  conclude  the  workman  has 
done  his  duty.  The  workmanship  on  cloth,  that  is  designed 
for  handsome  dressing  may  be  discovered  by  the  eye  ;  if  it 
is  pressed  stiff  like  buckram,  if  the  nap  be  irregular  and  the 
face  of  the  cloth  be  rough,  the  workman  has  not  perfornied 
his  duty,  but  has  endeavoured  to  hide  his  failure  by  the 
press.  '  The  press  on  thick  cloth  is  of  no  importance  ;  cloth 
should  be  so  dressed  as  to  wear  as  neatly  without  as  with 
pressing :  the  only  reason  that  thick  cloths  are  pressed  is 
to  settle  the  bodies  of  the  wool,  and  make  the  threads  uni- 
formly smooth  and  firm,  compact  and  finished-  How- 
ever, if  the  cloth  has  not  been  regularly  manufactured 
before  it  is  delivered  to  the  d)  er,  millman  and  finisher,  it 
yiil  be  beyond  their  power  ig  finish  it  neatly.    Wboevjit 


dyer's  companiont.  277 

will  inspect  cloth  in  conformity  to  the  foregoing  directions 
may  easily  know  whether  the  workman  finisher  has  per- 
formed or  neglected  his  duty. 

Did  the  people  of  this  country  thus  inspect  their  cloths, 
unfaithful  and  ignorant  cloth  dressers  would  not  be  employ- 
ed ;  while  the  well  informed,  and  faithful  workman  (it  must 
be  acknowledged  we  have  sou  e  as  good  and  able  workmen 
as  in  any  country  progressing  rapidly  in  the  improvem;  nts 
of  useful  arts,)  would  be  enabled  to  do  business  upon  a  more 
extensive  scale,  than  has  been  yet  attempted  in  America. 
If  cloths  were  manufactured  and  dressed  as  well  as  our 
■wool  will  admit,  gentlemen  in  general  would  prefer  the 
productions  of  their  own  country  to  those  of  Europe :  but 
greatly  to  our  injury,  cloths  of  this  country  too  )^enerally 
have  not  been  properly  treated  in  dying  and  dressing  :  one 
reason  is,  because  many  who  pretend  to  be  workmen  are 
entirely  ignorant  of  colours,  their  combinations,  and  the  phy- 
sical qualities  of  dye  stuff;  another  reason  thnt  may  be  ren- 
dered for  this  imposition  is,  because  many  attempt  to  dress 
cloth  before  they  are  acquainted  with  the  business,  and  con- 
sequently never  acquire  a  suitaljle  knowledge  of  it  It  would 
greatly  promote  the  interests  of  the  nation  as  well  as  that  of 
individuals  were  no  person  to  attempt  the  dying  and  finish- 
ing of  cloths,  until  he  had  acquired  a  suitable  information  by 
instruction  and  experience  :  gentlemen  of  literary  acquire- 
ments who  have  turned  their  attention  to  chymical  analysis, 
acknowledge  that  the  art  of  dying  is  as  difficult  as  it  is 
uselul- 

A  great  proportion  of  the  people  being  unacquainted  with 
the  clothiers  and  dyer's  art,  have  been  satisfied  with  the 
workmen  they  employ,  thoui^h  their  goods  have  suffered 
through  the  ignorance  or  fraud  of  the  dyer,  millman  and 
finisher.  If  the  goods  present  a  flashy  and  fanciful  colour, 
and  come  stiff  from  the  press,  many  people  suppose  they 
are  well  dressed  ;  but  the  stiffness  which  the  cloth  has  ac- 
quired from  a  hot  and  close  press  is  designed  merely  to  con- 
ceal the  faults  of  the  finisher.  The  populace  will  find  on 
■wearing  such  goods,  that  the  colour  will  soon  fade,  and  the 
cloth  soon  become  rough  and  appear  coarse,  whereas  if  the 
cloth  had  been  well  coloured  and  dressed,  it  would  have 
■worn  smooth  as  long  as  the  garment  remained  whole  and 
decent. 

For  general  information  it  may  be  necessary  to  point  out 
some  further  directions  that  any  person,  on  viewing  a  piece 
of  cloth  may  determine  whether  it  be  well  coloured  or  not. 

Of  Colours. — Some  reflect  a  beautiful  lustre  from  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  nap,  that  is  raised  on  cloths  ;  otht  rs  present 
a  beautitul  body  from  the  grains  of  the  cloth,  but  afford  no 
lustre  ;  those  which  afford  a  lustre  or  reflect  tlie  rays  of 
light  that  incidentally  fall  upon  them,  are  the  deep  blues,  all 


278  APPENDIX  TO    THE,    &C. 

greens,  black,  red  browns,  purple,  cinnamons,  clarfets'," 
«moke,  snufFand  olive  browns;  these  are  full  colours;  if 
•well  dyed,  by  casting  the  eye  towards  the  light  level  with 
the  cloth,  the  hearts  of  wool  that  rise  up  on  it  will  appear 
bright  and  lively,  as  if  the  rays  of  light  shone  through  them  : 
those  colours  which  by  this  experiment  appear  f  lint  and 
languid,  you  may  determine  have  not  received  their  com- 
plement of  dye  stuff  and  are  not  well  coloured.  Scarlet 
affords  no  lustre,  but  if  well  dyed  the  body  of  the  cloth  will 
look  glaring,  bearing  slightly  on  the  orange;  crimson  pre- 
sents no  lustre,  but  if  well  coloured  gives  a  beautiful  body : 
some  reds  produces  a  lustre  and  glare  full  of  the  blaze. 
There  are  many  shades  of  different  colours  which  give  no 
lustre,  yet  they  appear  clear  ai)d  bright. 

It  is  necessary  that  the  dye  should  equally  penetrate  the 
pores  of  the  wool,  then  the  cloth  will  with  few  exceptions 
as  to  colour,  if  well  dressed  appear  handsome  ;  but  if  the 
eloth  has  not  well  received  the  dye,  or  ii  appears  daubed,  it 
will  discover  the  fraud  or  ignorance  of  the  dyer ;  but  if  it  be 
poorly  finished,  however  good  the  colouf,  tUe  cloUl  Will 
sever  aSbrd  even  a  decent  appearancQ. 


EI?D  0?  THE  APPElimi;© 


DYER'S   COMPANION, 


PAR  r  II. 


Containing  Many  Useful  Receipts. 

3.  To  Jack  or  harden  Leatlier  for  HorsemaiCs  Capa,  Holsters,  i/i, 
1  HAVE  found  by  experienc* ,  that  saddle  Italher  ibthe 
best  for  caps  and  holsters.  In  this  case,  let  the  cap,  &c.  be 
perfectly  dry  ;  and  on  the  block  when  jacked  ;  take  melt- 
ed rozin,  as  hot  as  is  convenient,  rub  it  on  with  a  small  swab, 
then  pass  the  cap  back  and  forth  throu^;h  a  light  blaze,  and 
hnld  it  to  the  fire  till  it  strikes  in  ;  repeat  it  a  second  time. 
It  is  a  repellant  to  water,  and  kteps  the  work  in  its  place. 
For  leather  that  has  not  been  oiled,  add  to  three  ounces  of 
I'osin,  one  ounce  of  bees-wax,  and  halt  an  ounce  of  tallow. 

2d     To  make  Varnish  for  Leather.  ., 

TAKE  three  ounces  of  gum  sheliack  made  fine,  and  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  Venice  turpentine,  put  theni  into  one 
pint  of  double  rectified  spirits  of  wine,  place  the  bottle  in  hot 
sand  or  water  for  six  hours,  shake  it  often,  and  apply  it 
•with  a  soft  brush  or  the  fingers  when  blood  warm  Repeat 
it  three  or  four  times  in  the  course  of  twelve  hours,  if  vcu 
•wish  it  black  for  boots  or  shoes,  add  halt  an  ounce  of  ivy 
black  &c. 

3d.  To  make  liquid  Blacking  for  Boots  and  Shoes. 
TAKEone  ounce  ot  oil  of  vitriol,  one  ounce  sweet  oil,  three 
ounces  of  copperas,  three  ounces  of  molasses,  mix  them 
toj^ether,  let  it  stand  one  hour  ;  then  add  one  pint  of  vinegar 
shake  them  well  together  and  it  will  bt-  fit  for  use. 
^ih.  To  prepare  Feathers,  Fur  and  Hair,  to  receive  Red,  Yellov:  jr 
Green. 

THIS  preparation  is  necessary  as  the  oil  must  beejctract- 
ed  previous  to  colourini,.  For  one  ounce  of  feathers,  take 
one  quart  of  water,  add  to  it  one  gill  of  sour  whe  at  bran  wa- 
ter, one  ••uiice  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  half  an  ounce  r>i 
allum  ;  sim.i.er  this  together  ;  then  after  the  feathers  are 
•washtd  a.id  rinced,  put  them  in,  let  it  stand  twelve  hours, 
keeping  t!ie  liquor  hot. 

K.  B.  White  only  will  receive  the  above  coloqrs' 


58i  USKFUL  RECEIPTS. 

5th.    To  Colour  Feathers,  Fur,  &c.  Red. 

TAKE  half  an  ounce  ot  cochineal  made  fine,  mix  it  with 
an  ounce  and  an  half  of  cream  of  tartar  to  one  quart  of  wa- 
ter ;  when  simmering  hot,  add  a  tea-spoon-full,  let  it  stand 
ten  minutes,  then  put  it  in  the  feathers,  and  so  on  each  ten 
ininutes,  until  exhausted.  In  all  colouring,  the  dve  must 
not  be  crowded,  and  soft  water  must  be  used  After  the 
■whole  of  the  colouring  is  in,  let  it  stand  fifteen  minutes,  then 
rince  them  in  clear  water ;  whilst  in  the  dye,  five  or  six 
drops  of  aquafortis  may  uot  be  amiss  as  it  sets  the  colour 
xnore  on  the  scarlet. 

dth.  To  dye  Brussels,  Red. 
TAKE  one  ounce  of  Brazil  wood  »;round,half  an  ounce  of 
allunij  quarter  ounce  of  vermillion,  and  one  pint  of  vinegar, 
boil  well,  jmt  in  the  brussels  when  hot  and  keep  them  m  till 
cool,  and  vou  will  obtain  the  colour  required. 
7th.  To  Colour  Feathers,  Fur,  Hair,  and  Woollen  or  Silk,  Blue,  ef 
any  shade. 
NO  preparation  is  necessary  except  washing  and  rincing. 
To  eight  ounces  of  oil  of  vitriol,  add  one  ounce  of  indigo 
made  fine,  a  tea-spoonfull  of  each  six  or  tight  ininutes, 
shake  it  often  ;  it  must  stand  two  or  three  days  before  it  is 
fit  for  use  ;  indeed  the  longer  it  stands  the  better  :  one  tea- 
spoonfull  of  this  to  onequart  of  water,when  hot  as  is  convenient 
for  flesh  to  bear,  make  an  azure  blue  ;  by  adding  or  diminish- 
ing, ^ny  ^hade  is  produced.  It  is  not  recommended  for 
\voollt;n,  except  for  women's  light  wear,  stockings,  &rc.  as 
the  colour  is>  not  very  durable  on  the  wool.  Those  light  ar- 
ticles being  easily  re-coloured,  it  will  be  found  the  most  con- 
venient and  expeditious  method  of  colouring,  as  ten  or  fif- 
teen minutes  is  sufficient  tor  any  of  the  above  articles  to  co- 
lour. It  is  also  very  useful  to  revive  old  dye  that  has  decay- 
ed ;  also,  a  few  drops  put  into  rincing  water  for  silk,  stock- 
ings. &c  giv»s  the  primitive  clearness.  1  am  sure,  if  the 
use  of  this  was  known,  that  scarce  a  family  would  be  found 
without  a  phial  of  it  in  their  house  ;  when  cold  let  it  be  slop- 
ed tight  with  a  glass  r.r  wax  stopper. 

Sth.  For  Blue  en  Brussels, 
TAKE  one  ounce  of  go  id  indigo,  and  one  ounce  of  hiss, 
SI  small  fiub  of  allum  the  size  of  a  hazlenut,  one  quart 
of  gum  water,simmer  them  all  together  and  dip  the  brussels 
v/hen  hot ;  you  may  substitute  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  gum 
ara))ic  dissolved  in  one  quart  of  hot  water  in  lit- u  of  gum  wa- 
ter, let  them  lay  in  thr  dye  two  hours;  then  take  them  out, 
el  ip  them  well  with  the  hands,  that  in  dying  you  may  im- 
bibe the  colour,  hans;  them  up  to  dry  ;  if  diflen  nt  shades  arc 
required  you  may  change  the  order  of  the  dyes,  always 
;isi!ig  gum  water  or  gum  arabic  dissolved  as  before  ;  for 
Uck,  use  logv^cod,  nut  galls,  copperas,  8cc,    For  purple 


,  Useful  ueceiptj>.  s«i 

tfSe  lake  and  indigo.  For  carnation  colours,  use  vermiUion 
and  smalt.  For  yellow,  use  berries,  saffron  and  tartar,  all 
mixed  ai>d  dissolved  in  gum  water  ;  use  your  judgment  try 
and  see. 

9^A.    To  Colour  Feathers,  i^c.  Tellow  and  Green. 

TAIvE  two  pounds  of  fustick,  chip  it  fine,  boil  it  in  two 
gallons  of  water  four  hours,  keeping  the  quantity  of  water  ; 
then  take  out  the  chips,  and  add  one  ounce  of  curkemy  root, 
and  an  ounce  of  allum  ;  boil  the  two  gallons  to  two  qsarts,  let 
the  feathers  lie  in  the  dye  one  hoar  to  make  them  green  ; 
add  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  the  oil  of  vitriol  and  indigo.  They 
require  to  be  only  rinced  after  colouring. 

10:/j.   For  Green  on  Brussels  and  Feathers. 

TAKE  one  ounce  of  verdigrease,  one  ounce  of  bees-wa;.", 
one  ounce  of  tartar,  one  gill  of  vinegar,  one  qunrt  of  gum 
water  or  four  ounces  of  gum  arabic  dissolved  in  water ;  mix 
them  all  together  and  heat  them,  then  take  the  brusstls  and 
feathers  and  dip  them  in  hot  water,  then  in  the  dye,clap  them 
•with  the  hand,  let  them  lie  two  hours  and  hang  them  to  dry. 
nth.    For  Light  Green  on  Woollen. 

TAKE  of  the  juice  of  the  herb  called  horsetail  to  which 
•add  one  ounce  copperas,  one  ounce  of  verdigiease,  and  halt 
an  ounce  of  allum,  heat  it  hot  and  handle  till  your  colour 
suits. 

\1th.    To  coltm-  JTats  Green  on  the  under  side. 

TAKE  two  pounds  of  fustick,  chip  it  fine,  put  it  into  two 
gallons  of  soft  water,  boil  it  four  hours  in  brass,  keeping 
nearly  the  quantity  ef  water  :  take  out  the  chips,  add  two 
ounces  of  curkemy  root,  and  one  ounce  of  allum  ;  boil  this 
to  three  pints,  brush  this  on  the  hats  twice  ovet",  then  add  to 
one  quart  of  tl:is  yellow  liquor,  three  tea-spoonfuls  of  the 
indigo  and  vitriol,  (as  mentioned  in  a  former  ieceipt)this 
will  make  it  green,  brush  this  on  the  hat  two  or  three  times, 
leaving  time  between  for  the  hat  to  be  nearly  dry. 
1 3th.    To  Celonr  Feathers,  ^c.  Black. 

THIS  19  the  most  difficult  colour  to  set  The  feathers 
■must  lay  in  a  preparatory  liquor  twelve  hours  ;  as  follows — 
To  each  quart  of  water  add  one  tea-spoonful  of  aquafortis, 
it  must  be  kept  hot  the  whole  of  the  time  :  then,  tor  three 
ounces  of  feathers,  take  two  pounds  of  logwood  chipped  fine, 
and  one  pound  of  common  sumac,  put  these  into  three  gal- 
lons of  water  in  an  iron  kettle,  boil  it  foiTr-  or  five  hoars,  take 
out  the  chips,  and  add  two  ounces  of  English  nutgalls 
pounded  tine ;  boil  the  three  gallons  to  three  quarts,  then 
put  in  the  feathers,  let  them  be  twelve  hours  ;  then  take 
three  ounces  of  copperas,  and  one  ounce  of  verdigrease  made 
fine,  put  them  into  half  a  pint  of  urine,  and  stir  it  on  a  mod- 
crate  fire  ten  or  twelve  minutes ;  put  this  to  the  dye,  it  will 
set  the  colour ;  let  them  be  in  twelve  hours  more,  then  they 
^nst  be  washed  or  rinced  perfectly  cleai^,    It  H  possibni- 


2€2  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

that  hatters  and  others  v  ho  deal  in  black,  may  find  50int^ 
third  in  this  to  their  advantage. 

N.  B.  The  preceding  receipts  for  feathers,  fur,  &c.  are  in- 
tended for  hatters  as  well  as  dyers. 

litfi.     To   Lacker  Bram  and  Tin-Ware. 

TAKE  gum  gamboge  one  ounce,  make  it  fine,  put  it  into 
four  ounces  spirits  of  wine,  let  it  be  kept  warm  four  hours : 
the  method  of  using  it  for  smiill  ware,  such  as  buckles  for 
harness,  Jcc.  put  them  on  a  piece  of  sheet  iron,  heat  them 
hissing  hct,  then  dip  them  in  the  lacker  one  at  a  time,  as 
fast  as  you  please.  F^.r  large  work,  let  the  ware  be  heat- 
ed, ai)ply  the  lacker  with  a  fine  brush  ;  it  gives  a  most 
beautiiul  yellow. 

\jth.    To  soften  Sleel—for  engrarirt^^  Uc. 

jVIAKE  a  very  strong  lie. of  unslacktd  lime  and  white  oak 
.".shes,  ot'ench  an  eqrii  quantity  ;  put  in  the  steel,  let  it  lay 
Icuvtcen  days— it  will  be  sosf)ft  nseasily  mbe  cut  with  aknife. 
10//i.     To  make  Oil-Cloth  for  Hats,  Umbrellas,  iic. 

TAKE  one  pint  of  linseed  oil,  add  one  ounce  spirits  of 
wme,  one  ounce  of  litharge  of  gold,  and  one  ounce  of  sugar  cf 
lead,  simmer  them  together  half  an  hour  ;  take  Persian  or 
sarsnct,  tack  it  within  a  frame, a  common  case  knife  is  used 
ia  la.ying  cu  the  oil :  twice  going  over  is  sufficient. 
17/A    To  make  Oil-Cloth  for  Carpets. 

To  one  gill  of  dissolved  glue  add  one  gill  of  honey,  and 
fine  pint  of  water,  simmer  these  together,  stir  in  it  five  or 
six  ounces  ol  Spanish  white  ;  the  cloth  being  tacked  as 
.above,  rub  this  on  till  the  pores  are  filled.  If  the  paint  be 
prop'jrly  prepared,  it  will  i  either  break  nor  peal  off. 

ISM.     The  CtJne&e  nierl.odfor  rendering  Clolh  vater  proof. 

TAKE  one  ounce  of  white  wax,  (melted)  add  one  quart 
of  spirits  of  turpentine  ;  when  thoroughly  mixed  and  cold, 
then  dip  tliC  cloth  into  the  liquid  and  hang  it  up  to  dxy  till  it 
is  thoroughly  dry. 

By  the  above  cheap  and  easy  method,  muslin,  as  well  ai 
the  strongest  cloths,  will  be  rendered  quite  impenetrable  to 
the  hardest  riins ;  and  that  witiiont  the  ingfcdients  used 
cither  filling  up  the  pores  of  the  cloth  or  injuring,  in  the 
JeasT,  its  texture,  or  damaging,  at  all,  the  most  brilliant  co- 
lours. 

ID.'.'i.    To  boil  Oil  for  Painting. 

To  one  gallr.c  of  oil,  add  one  ounce  of  white  vitriol,  and 
an  ounce  of  sugar  G*<cad,  a  quarter  at  a  time  ;  boil  one  hour. 
Or  this,  jjut  in  four  ounces  of  litharge  of  g'ld,  one  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  red  lead,  (.ne  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  of 
lead  and  one  ounce  of  rosin  made  fine  ;  heat  over  a  mode- 
rate fire  (but  nr.t  burn),  stir  it  two  hours  ;  let  stand  aiid  set- 
tle ;  turn  it  off  with  c:ire,  and  leave  the  lees. 
20/A.  To  make  Stone  Colour. 

TO  fourteen  pounds  ofwlinelead,  add  five  pounds  of  yel- 
I^'  ochre,  and  oue  cuiicc  of  ivory  black. ;  you  may  Tarjr 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  §S3 

tlie  shades,  by  adding  ■with  the  lead,  stone  yellow  aiul  V€V- 
milUon,  and  mix  it  with  oil  to  your  liking';. 
2UA  To  uialce  Ptarl  Colour. 
Tu  twelve  pounds  of  white  lead,  add  one  pound  of  stone 
yellow,  half  an  ounce  of  Prussian  blue,  and  two  ounces  of 
\vhite  vitriol  to  dry  the  paint-  Vitriol  is  used  in  all  paints 
for  djying. 

22(7.   To  make  deep  Blue. 
TO  three  pounds  of  white  lead,  add  one  once  cf  Prussian 
blue.    You  may  make  your  colour  light  or  dark,  by  vary- 
ing your  lead  and  blue. 

23  J.    To  make  Sea  green. 
To  two  pounds  of  stone  yellow,  add  one  ounce  of  Prussian 
blue. 

fi'L'/i.    VereUgreme  Green. 
TO  one  pound  of  verdigrease,  atld  two  oupces  of  white 
lead.    Prime  your  work  with  white  lead,  and  lamp  bluck 
ground  witli  oil  in  proper  order. 

25;/i.    Orange  Colour  for  Carpets. 
TO  fyur  pounds  of  stone  yellow, add  twopounds  of  redlead^ 

2&th.  To  Paint  Flesh  Colojir  or  Peach  JIloxv. 
TAKE  white  and   red  lead,  grind  tliem  together  :  you 
may   make  any  shade  you  please  by  varying  the  red  and 
white  lead. 

27///.    To  Paint  a  Red  Bro-mn. 
TAKE  two  pounds  of  Spanish  brown,  and  one  pound  cf 
red  lead,  and  grind  them  witli  oil. 

'28/A.   To  Paint  BUich. 
TAKE  lamp-black,  and  a  small  quantity  of  Prussian  blue, 
and  grind  them  with  oil. 

29 /A.   To  Slack  Ferdigrease.  < 

TAKE  a  kettle  of  hot  wet  sand,  wrap  lour  or  five  ounces 
of  verdigrease  in  a  cabbage  leaf,  put  as  many  of  these  par- 
cels iv\  the  sand  as  is  convenient,  leaving  two  or  three  inchts 
between  ;  let  them  be  in  four  hours,  k<"epini:;  tl»e  sand  hot. 
The  verdigrease  being  thus  slacked,  a  uvAn  may  grind  three 
times  the  quantity  in  a  day  as  cf  unslackcd. 
SQth.  To  make  VeinulUon. 
TAKE  of  quick-.Vdver  eighteen  pounds,  of  flour  of  sul- 
phur six  pounds  ;  melt  the  sulphur  in  an  earthen  pot,  and 
pour  in  the  quick-silver  gradually,  I)cing  also  gently  warmed, 
and  stir  them  well  together  with  the  small  end  of  a  tobacco 
pipe.  But  if  from  the  effervescencev  on  adding  tlie  latter 
quantity  of  quick-silver,  they  take  fire,  extinguish  it  i^y 
throwing  a  wet  cloth  (^which  should  be  had  rtudy)  over  the 
vessel-  When  the  mass  is  cold,  powder  it,  so  that  the  <;ev« 
eral  parts  may  be  well  mixed  together.  But  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  reduce  it,  by  nicer  ievigaticn,  to  an  impalpable  state. 
Having  then  prepared  an  oblong  glass  body,  or  snhlimcr, 
by  coating  it  well  with  fire,  lute  over  the  whole  suriace  of 
the  glass,  and  working  a  proper  rhn  of  Uic  same  around  it#. 


-S4  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

by  which  it  may  be  hung  in  a  furnace,  in  such  a  raaiinci'  that 
one  half  of  it  may  be  exposed  to  the  fire,  fix  it  in  a  proper 
furnace,  and  let  the  powdered  mass  be  put  into  it,  so  as  to 
nearly  fill  the  part  that  is  wiihin  the  furnace,  a  piece  of 
broken  tile  being  laid  over  tlie  mouth  of  the  glass.  Sublime, 
then,  the  contents,  with  as  strong  a  beat  as  may  be  used 
without  blowing  the  fumes  of  the  Vermillion  out  of  the  mouth 
«f  the  sublimer.  When  the  sublimajion  is  over,  which  may 
he  perceived  by  the  abatement  of  the  heat  towards  the  top 
of  the  body,  discontinue  the  fire ;  and  after  the  body  is  cold", 
take  it  out  of  the  fumace,  and  break  it ;  then  collect  together 
all  the  parts  of  the  sublimed  cake,  separating  carefully  from 
rhem  any  dvoss  that  may  have  been  left  at  the  bottom  of  the 
body,  as  also  any  lighter  substance  that  may  have  been 
formed  in  the  neck,  and  appears  to  be  dissimilar  to  the  rest. 
Ijcvigatc  the  more  perfect  part ;  and  when  reduced  to  a 
fine  powder,  it  will  be  vejniillion  proper  for  use ;  but  on  the 
perfectness  of  the  levigation  depends,  in  a  great  degree, 
the  brightness  and  goodness  of  the  Vermillion,  In  order, 
therefore,  to  perform  this,  it  is  necessary  that  two  or  three 
mills,  of  different  closeness  should  be  employed,  and  the  last 
should  be  of  steel,  and  set  as  finely  as  possible, 

31*?.   0/  Jiase  Luke,  commonly  called  Rose  Pink. 

TAKE  Brazil  wood  six  pounds,  or  three  pounds  of  Brazil 
and  three  yjounds  of  peachy  wood.  IJoil  them  an  hour  with. 
three  gallons  of  water,  in  which  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
:iUum  is  dissolved.  Purify  then  the  fluid  by  straining  through 
ilannel,  and  put  back  the  wood  into  the  boiler  with  the  same 
quantity  of  allum,  and  proceed  as  before  ;  repeating  this  a 
ihirJ  time.  Mix  then  the  three  quantities  of  tincture  to- 
gether, and  evaporate  them  till  only  two  quarts  of  fluid 
remain.  Prepare  in  the  mean  time,  eight  jwunds  of  chalk, 
by  washing  over ;  a  pound  of  allum  being  put  into  the  watei* 
i.sed  for  that  purpose,  which,  after  the  chalk  is  washed, 
:nust  be. poured  off,  and  supplied  by  a  fresh  quantity,  till  the 
chalk  be  freed  from  the  salt  formed  by  the  allum ;  after 
^vhich,  it  must  be  dried  to  the  consistence  of  stiff  clay.  The 
chalk  and  tincture,  as  above  prepared,  must  be  then  well 
inixed  together  by  grinding,  ajid  afterwards  laid  cut  to  dry, 
where  neither  the  sun  nor  cold  air  can  reach  it ;  though  if  it 
can  be  conveniently  done,  a  gentle  beat  may  be  used, 

The  goodness  of  rose  pink  lies  chiefly  in  the  brightness  of 
ihe  colour  and  fineness  of  the  substance  ;  which  last  quality 
depends  on  the  washing  well  the  chalk.  The  more  the  hue 
of  rose  pink  verges  on  the  true  crimson,  that  is  to  say,  the  less 
purple  it  is,  the  greater  its  val':ie. 

32r/.  For  Prussian  Blue. 

TAKE  of  blooil  any  quantity,  and  evaporate  it  to  perfect 
dryness-  Of  this  dry  blotMi  powdered  take  six  pounds,  of  the 
bpt  peariash  two  pounds ;  mix  them  well  together  in  » 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  25j 

glass  or  stone  mortar,  and  then  put  the  mixed  matter  into 
large  crucibles  or  earthen  pots,  and  calcine  it  )n  a  furnace, 
the  top  of  the  crucible  or  pot  being'  covered  witli  a  tile,  or 
Other  such  convenient  thing,  but  not  hited.  The  calcination 
should  be  continued  so  long  as  any  flame  appears  to  issue 
from  the  matter,  or  rather  till  the  flame  becomes  very  slen- 
der and  blue  ;  for  if  the  fire  be  very  strong,  a  small  flame 
Tvould  arise  for  a  very  long  time,  and  a  gieat  part  of  the 
tinging  matter  would  be  dissipated  and  lost.  When  the 
matter  has  been  sufficiently  calcined,  take  the  vessels  which 
contain  it  out  of  the  fire,  and  as  quickly  as  possible  throw  it 
into  two  or  three  gallons  of  water  ;  and  as  it  soaks  there* 
break  it  with  a  wooden  spatula,  that  no  lumps  may  remain  ; 
put  them  in  a  proper  tin  vessel,  and  boil  it  for  the  space  of 
three  quarters  of  an  hour  or  more.  Filter  it  'while  hot 
through  paper,  and  pass  some  water  through  the  filter  when 
it  is  run  dry,  to  wash  out  the  remainder  of  the  lixivium  ot* 
the  blood  and  pearlash :  the  earth  remaining  in  the  filter 
may  be  thrown  away.  In  the  mean  time,  dissolve  of  clean 
allum  four  pounds,  and  of  green  vitriol  (T  copperas  two 
pounds,  in  three  gallons  of  water  :  add  this  solution  gradual- 
ly to  the  filtered  lixivium,  so  long  as  any  eflfcrvescence  ap- 
jpcars  to  arise  on  the  mixture ;  but  when  no  ebullition  or 
ferment  follows  the  admixture,  cease  to  put  in  more  Let 
the  mixture  then  stand  at  rest,  and  a  green  powder  will  be 
l)recipitated ;  from  v/hich,  when  it  has  thoroughly  subsided, 
the  clear  part  of  the  fluid  must  be  poured  ofl!  and  fresh 
•water  put  in  its  place,  and  stirred  well  about  with  the  green 
powder;  and  after  a  proper  time  of  settling,  ths  water  must 
be  poured  off  like  the  first.  Take  then  of  spirits  of  salt, 
double  the  weight  of  the  green  vitriol,  which  was  contained 
in  the  quantity  of  solution  of  vitriol  and  allum  added  to  the 
lixivium,  Avhich  will  soon  turn  the  green  matter  to  a  blu& 
colour ;  and  after  some  time,  add  a  proper  quantity  of 
water,  and  wash  the  colour  in  the  same  manner  as  has  been 
directed  for  lake,  &c.  and  when  properly  washed,  proceed  in 
the  same  manner  to  dry  it  in  lumps  of  convenient  size. 

It  is  necessary,  in  all  painting,  that  all  paints,  when  mixed 
together  with  the  oil,  to  grind  it  til)  it  is  a  perfect  salve,  so 
as  when  you  rub  it  between  your  fingers  you  cannot  feel  any 
roughness  with  it,  butr  feel  perfectly  smooth  as  oil ;  then  it  is 
ground  fit  for  use— then  add  oil,  asid  stir  it  together  what  is 
necessary,  or  according  to  your  liking.  Oil  m'ust  be  boiled 
in  all  painting. 

33el.  To  Unj  Gold  Leaf  on  Carvecl,  or  Moulding  JVork. 

TAKE  stone  yellow,  and  white  lead  tin  equal  quantity ; 
grind  it  fine  with  old  oil :  brush  this  smooth  over  tiie  work- 
twice  ;  Ijet  stand  twenty-four  hours,  and  then  cut  your  leaf 
in  proper  form  on  a  leather  cushion  with  a  sharp  knife, 
•ke  up  your  leaf  on  cotton- wool,  and  put  it  to  jour-work  ; 
B  b  2 


286  OSEFLTL  RECEIPT&> 

a  light  brush  over  the  work  after  the  gold  is  on  will  add  to 
its  beauty. 

Sith.   .MEMOIR 
On  a  method  of  Painting:-  -with  Milk — btj  A.   A.  Cadet   de  Vavx  : 
Member  of  the  Accidttnical  Society  of  Sciences. — From  the  "  2>e- 
tade  J'hilosophique." 

I  PUBLISHED  in  the  "  Feuille  de  Cultivateur."  but  at  a 
time  when  the  thoughts  of  every  one  were  absorbed  by  the 
public  misfortunes,  a  singular  economical  process  for  paint- 
ing which  the  want  of  materials  induced  me  to  substitute 
instead  <,f  painting  in  distemper.  Take  skimmed  milk,  two 
quarts;  fresh  slacked  lime,  six  ounces;  oil  of  carraway,  or 
linseed,  or  nut,  four  ounces  ;  Spanish  while,  five  ounces. 
Put  the  lime  into  a  vessel  of  stone  ware,  and  pour  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  milk  to  make  a  smooth  mixture  ;  then  add 
the  oil  by  degrees,  stirring  the  mixture  with  a  small  wood- 
en spatula  ;  then  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  and  finally 
the  Spanish  white.  Skimmed  milk,  in  summer,  is  often 
curdled  ;  but  this  is  of  no  consequence  to  our  purpose,  as  its 
fluidity  is  soon  restored  by  its  contact  with  Hme.  It  is,  how- 
ever, absolutely  necessary  that  it  should  not  be  sour ;  for  in 
that  case  it  would  form  with  the  lime  a  kind  of  calcareous 
acetite,  susceptible  of  attracting  moisture. 

The  lime  is  slacked  by  plunging  it  into  water,  drawing  it 
out  and  leav-^ing  it  to  fall  to  pieces  in  the  air.  It  is  indiffer- 
ent which  of  the  three  oils  above-mentioned  we  use  ;  how- 
ever, for  painting  white,  the  oil  of  carraway  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred, as  It  is  colourless.  For  painting  the  ochres,  the 
rx)mmonest  lamp  oil  may  be  used.  The  oil,  when  mixed 
with  the  n^ilk  and  lime,  disappears  ;  being  entirely  dissolv- 
ed by  the  lime,  with  which  it  forms  a  calcareous  soap.  The 
Spanish  white  must  be  crumbled,  and  gently  spread  upon 
the  surface  of  the  liquid,  which  it  gradually  imbibes,  and 
nt  last  sinks  ;  it  must  then  be  stirred  with  a  stick.  This 
paint  is  coloured  like  distemper,  with  charcoal  levigated  in 
water,  yellow  ochre,  &c.  It  is  used  in  the  same  manner 
as  distemper.  The  quantity  above  mentioned  is  sufficient 
for  painting  the  first  layer  oif  six  toises,  or  fathoms. 

One  of  the  properties  of  mypaint,  which  we  may  term 
milk  distemper  paint,  is,  that  it  will  keep  for  whole  months, 
and  require  neither  lime  nor  fire,  nor  even  manipulation  ; 
in  ten  minutes  we  may  prepare  enough  of  it  to  paint  a 
whole  house.  One  may  sleep  in  a  chamber  the  night  after 
it  has  been  painted.  A  single  coating  is  sufficient  for  places 
that  have  already  been  painte.d  It  is  not  necessary  to  lay 
on  two,  unless  where  grease  spots  repel  the  first  coating  ; 
these  should  be  removed  by  washmg  them  with  strong  lime 
water  or  a  lie  of  soap,  or  scraped  off. 

New  wood  requires  two  coatings.  One  coating  is  suffi- 
cient for  a  stair-case>  passage,  or  ceiling.    1  bave  sdnce  sJfV: 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  287 

eh  a  far  greater  degree  of  solidity  to  this  method  of  paint- 
ing :  for  it  has  been  my  aim,  not  only  to  substitute  it  in  the 
place  of  painting  in  distem])er,  but  also  of  oil  paint 
35^//.   liesinoiis  jyiilh  Paint. 

FOR  work  out  of  doors  i  add  to  the  proportions  of  the 
milk  distemper  painting,  two  ounces  of  slacked  lime,  two 
ounces  of  oil,  and  two  ounces  of  white  Burgundy  pitch.  The 
pitch  is  to  be  melted  in  oil  by  a  gentle  heat,  and  added. to 
tlie  smooth  mixture  of  milk  and  oil.  In  cold  weather  the 
milk  ought  to  be  warmed  to  prevent  its  cooling  the  pitch 
tod  suddenly,  and  to  facilitate  its  union  with  the  milk  of 
lime  ,ThJs  painting  has  some  analogy  with  that  knowa 
by  the  name  of  encaustic. 

I  have  employed  the  resinous  milk  paint  for  outside  win- 
dow shutters,  that  had  been  previously  painted  with  oil. 
The  cheapness  of  the  articles  for  this  paint,  makes  it  an 
important  object  for  those  people  that  have  large  wooden 
houses  and  fences. — An  experiment  has  been  made  with 
this  paint  in  this  country,  and  it  at  present  appears  to  an- 
swer perfectly  the  description  of  the  inventor. 

06th.  Ah  easy  and  cheap  method  to  Stain  Cherry  a  MahogaTO) 
Colour. 

TAKE  common  whiiewa&h  of  lime   and  water,  white 
"wash  the  wood,  let  it  stand  perhaps  twenty-four  hours,  then 
rub  it  off,  after  polishing  the  wood  apply  linseed  oil.  By  using 
a  small  piece  of  wood  you  may  find  when  the  colour  suits. 
37rA.    To  make  Cherryieood  the  Colour  of  JMahogany. 

TAKE  two  ounces  of  Sjjanish  brown,  one  of  red  lead,  a 
(Quarter  of  an  ounce  of  vermillion  and  half  an  ounce  of 
spruce  yellow,  all  ground  fine  and  strained  or  sifted  in 
clean  water  ;  mix  it  well  and  asthickas  it  will  pour  ;  thea 
take  a  woollen  cloth  and  dip  it  thereto,  and  rub  your  work, 
the  more  it  is  rubbed  the  better  it  will  appear  ;  v/ipe  off  the 
■work,  varnish  and  polish  it. 

38tA.  For  a  Dark  Mahogajiy  Colour. 

TAKE  two  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  boil  well  till  the 
strength  is  well  out;  take  one  pint  of  the  liquor  and  put  it 
in  a  bottle:  then  take  two  ounces  of  dragon's  blood,  make  it 
fine  and  put  it  into  a  bottle,  and  add  a  pint  of  spirits  of  wine, 
■which  should  be  well  steeped,  when  settled  it  is  fit  for  use. 
'First  brush  the  wood  with  logwood  liquor  twice  over,  then 
■with  the  dragon's  bl«od  and  you  will  obtain  the  colour,  then 
varnish  or  polish  8rc. 

Z^th.  To  Stain  JThite  Wood  the  colour  oj  Mahogany,  or  Black 

Walnut. 
TAKE  two  pounds  of  logwood  chips,  boll  three  hours  in 
■water,  have  two  quarts  of  liquor ;  then  add  to  one  gallon  of 
■water  eie;ht  ounces  of  madder,  let  it  stand  twelve  hours, 
ketping  it  warm,  strain  it  off  then  mix  it  with  an  equal 
quantity  df  the  logwood  liquor ;  it  is  appU«d  as  other  stains; 


m  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

•when  hot  brushing  it  over,  and  letting  it  dry  each  time  tfll  it 
suits. 

iOt/t.    To  Stain  amj   kind  of  If  kite  TTood  a  Bark  Jiedy  or  Mght 
JMahoganii  Colour. 

TAKE  two  ounces  of  drugs  called  dragon's  blood,  make 
it  fine  ;  pnt  it  into  a  pint  of  double-rectified  spirits  of  wine  ;. 
let  it  stand  six  or  seven  days,  shake  it  often,  brubh  it  on  the 
■wood  till  the  shade  suits.  ' 

iUt.  To  make  a  Cherry  lied,  on  JVItite  Wood  of  any  kind. 

TAKE  of  the  Ijriglueat  of  logwood  two  pounds,  boil  out 
tile  strength,  take  out  the  chips,  add  a  table  spoonful  of  the 
rasping  of  gallant  gill  root,  boil  this  one  hour,  strain  the  dye 
and  boil  it  down  to  one  quarter  of  the  quantity  ;  brush  it  on 
the  wood  when  hot,  repeat  ii  till  the  colour  suits. 
4'2(/.  The  best  Red  Stain  for  Wood. 

THIS  is  made  by  boiling  two  pounds  of  red-wood  in  two 
gallons  of  water,  in  the  same  manner  as  logwood,  Sec.  is 
boiled;  it  is  necessary  to  boil  this  in  brass:  when  boiled 
down  to  a  proper  quRntity,  add  one  ounce  of  cochineal,  and 
two  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar  made  fine  ;  boil  this  half  an 
hour,  or  till  there  is  but  one  quart  of  the  liquor  ;  apply  it 
warm,  and  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  aquafortis. 

4.3  rf.  To  make  Green,  o?i  any  kind  of  Wldte  Wood. 

TAKE  a  yellow  liquor  as  described  in  receipt  9ih,  add  the 
vitriol  and  indigo,  less  or  more,  to  make  what  shade  is  want- 
ed. In  all  shades,  it  is  necessary  to  repeat  colouring  three 
or  four  times,  leaving  time  for  the  wood  to  dry  betwixt  each 
colouring ;  the  colour  grows  darker  by  standing. — The  wood 
•will  not  do  to  varnish  short  of  six  or  seven  days  after  staining. 
Uth.  To  Stain  Green. 

TAKE  three  ounces  of  verdigreaee  powdered  ;  put  it  iu 
a  glass  bottle  with  a  pint  of  good  vinegar ;  let  stand  two 
days  with  often  shaking,  and  kept  warm  ;  brush  it  on  the 
wood  till  you  obtain  the  colour  required. 

ioth.  To  Stain  a  Light  Orange  Colour. 

TAKE  two  ounces  of  curkemy  root  pulverized  and  put  in 
a  glass  bottle  ;  add  to  it  a  pint  of  si)irits  of  wine,  steep  it 
twenty-four  hours,  shake  it,  and  brus-h  over  till  it  pleases- 
46?A.  To  Stain  Wood  Slack. 

TAKE  logwood  hquor  to  give  the  groundwork,  then  take 
two  ounces  of  English  nut  galls  made  fine,  put  this  in  one 
quart  of  water,  let  it  stand  four  days,  shake  it  often,  then 
brush  it  on,  three  or  four  times  ;  when  almost  dry,  rub  it 
over  two  or  three  times  with  strong  copperas  water ;  like 
other  stains  it  grows  darker  by  stand  ng. 

i7th.  Vurnish  for  Wood  eitlier  Stained  or  Punted. 

THIS  is  made  the  same  as  in  receipt  2d,  except,  instead 
©f  three  ounces  of  gum  shellark,  take  of  it  one  ounce  and  a 
half,  and  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  gum  sandrick  ;  it  must  be 
laid  with  a  soft  brush,  and  several  times  repeated  ;  after  it 
t^as  Stood  three  or  four  days,  take  rotVen  stone  loade  £uie  j^j^ 


tJSEFUL  RECEIPTS.  ^89 

sifted,  mix  it  "with  water,  then  with  a  sponge  or  soft  linen, 
yab  it  on  till  sufficiently  polished 

N.  B.  If  the  varnish  should  be  too  thick,  you  may  soften 
it  with  spirits  of  turpentine- 

AHih.  Varnish. 

AN  excellent  varnish  has  recently  been  discovered,  made 
of  one  part  of  sandrac  not  pulverized,  and  two  parts  of 
spirits  of  wine,  made  cold  and  the  solution  promoted  by 
■frequent  shaking. 

AS  the  method  of  preparing  Copal  Varnish,  is  generally 
kept  secret  by  those  who  are  acquainted  with  it,  and  as  a 
tradesman  who  is  desirous  of  knowing  it,  is  obliged  to  give 
some  times  an  hundred  dollars  to  another,  \to  let  him  into 
the  secret,  and  that  upon  condition  of  not  imp;^rting  it  to  any 
liody  else — the  following  to  some  may  not  be  unacceptable. 
i9th.  To  make  Jlmber  or  Copal  Vai-tush, 

TAKE  of  white  rosni  fowr  drachms,  melt  it  over  a  fire  in 
a  glazed  vessel,  after  which  put  in  two  ounces  of  the  whitest 
amber  you  can  get,  finely  powdered  :  this  last  is  to  be  put  in 
gradually,  stirring  it  all  the  while  with  a  smaU  stick  ever  a 
gentle  fire,  till  it  dissolves  ;  pouring  in  now  and  then  a  little 
Ail  of  turpentine,  as  you  find  it  growing  stiff,  and  continue 
this  till  your  amber  is  melted.  When  the  Tarnish  has  been 
thus  niade.pour  it  into  a  coarse  linen  bag.and  press  it  between 
two  hot  boards  of  oak,  or  flat  plates  of  iron.  Great  care 
must  be  taken  in  making  the  varnish,  to  net  set  the  house  on 
fii"e  ;  for  the  vapour  of  tiie  oil  of  turpentine  will  even  take 
fire  by  heat. — If  it  should  happen  so  to  do,  immediately 
cover  the  pot  with  a  board  or  any  thing  that  will  suffocate 
it  ;  by  which  means  it  will  be  put  rut. 

50th,  A  Composition  for  ffiviiig'  a   Jieautiful  Polish  to  Mahogany 
Furniture. 

DISSOLVE  bees-wax  (equal  parts)  in  oil  of  turpentine, 
until  the  mixture  attain  the  consistency  of  paste. — After  the 
■wood  intended  to  be  polished  is  well  cleansed,  let  it  be  thinly 
covered  with  the  above  composition,  and  well  rubbed  with  a 
piece  of  oil  carpet,  untilno  dirt  \\ili  adhert*  to  its  surface. 
51s;.  To  Prepare  Glue  for  Use. 

TAKE  one  ounce  of  isinglass,  pounded  fine,  dissolve  four 
ounces  of  good  glue,  in  one  quart  of  water  and  strain  the 
isinglass  with  the  glne  into  a  small  pot  or  vessel  for  that 
purpose,  and  put  in  half  an  ounce  of  allum,  and  boil  them  all 
together. 

SQd.  To  make  an  excellent  Black  Ink  Powder,  ifc. 

TAKE  four  otmccs  of  nut  galls  powdt  red,  two  ounces  of 
copperas  calcined,  half  an  ounce  of  alkim,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  gum  arable,  all  powdered,  and  kept  close  from  the  air. 
To  make  Ink — The  above  is  sufficient  to  make  three 
pints  of  ink.  Take  of  rain  or  river  water  one  quart,  one 
pint  of  vinegar,  or  sour  beer  ;  put  in  the  powder  and  shake 
•well  and  kept  warm»  and  frequently  shook  together. 


QfiO  USEFUL  RECEIPTS.* 

53d:  For  Jilakinj  Black  Ink. 
TAKE  one  quart  of  rain  ^valer,  or  water  with  I'ipc  waliiut 
shooks  soaked  in  it.  or  the  waiter  soaked  with  oak  saw  dvist ; 
strain  it  off  clean,  then  add  one  tjuartcr  of  a  pound  of  the  best 
blue  galls,  two  ounces  of  good  copperas,  and  two  ounces  of 
gum  arabic  ;  put  it  in  a  bottle,  stop  tif;ht,  then  shake  it  well 
every  day  till  t!\e  ink  is  fit  for  use— but  the  older  the  better. ' 
The  above  articles  must  all  be  pulverized,  before  they  are 
applied  to  tl?e  water^ 

To  keip  ink  from  fveezinar,  apply  a  little  spirits  of  any 
kind.  To  keep  ink  from  mouldine,  apply  a  little  salt  therein. 
54/A.  For  lied  Ink,  C/c. 
TAKE  three  piiUs  of  sour  beer  (rather  than  vinegar)  and 
four  ounces  of  ground  Brazil-wood  ;  simmer  them  togetheir 
for  an  hour;  then  strain  off  and  bottle,  well  stopped,  for  use. 
Or  you  may  dissolve  half  an  ounce  of  gum  Senegal,  or 
arabic,  in  half  a  pint  of  water ;  then  put  in  a  penny  worth  of 
Vermillion ;  put  into  a  small  earthen  vessel  and  pour  the  gum 
water  to  it,  and  stir  it  well  till  it  is  well  rr.ixed  together,  and 
it  willbe  fit  for  use  in  twenty-four  hours — but  requires  stir- 
ring before  using.  In  the  same  manner  and  form,  you  may 
make  any  other  coloured  ink,  as  blue,  green,  yellow,  purple, 
&c.  For  blue,  use  indigo  or  Prussian  blue ;  for  green,  take 
verdigrease  and  vinegar ;  for  yellow,  use  curkerny  root  and 
allum  ;  for  purple,  use  Braail  and  logwoods,  with  allum  and 
a  little  pearlash.  It  is  necessary  to  steep  these  substitutes; 
strain  and  bottle  off,  add  the  gum  and  shake  well  together, 
and  kept  warm. 

^55th.  Wonderful  Cure  of  tJie  Dropsy',  by  DvarJEliler.  From 
the  Massachusetts  Jilugasine. 
SOME  years  ago,  v^  hen  the  invalids  from  Chelsea  were 
ordered  to  gan-ison  at  Portsmouth,  there  was  among  them 
a  man  greviously  afflicted  with  the  dropsy.  He  had  already 
become  so  unwieldly  as  to  be  rendered  incapable  of  doing 
any  thing  whatsoever,  and  was  at  last  so  corpulent  that  he 
could  procure  r.n  clothes  to  fit  him. 

In  this  critical  situation,  an  herb  doctor  chanced  to  cnme 
by.  and  seeing  the  man  in  that  situation,  said.  •  Well,  friend, 
■what  will  you  give  me  if  I  cure  you?'  The  poor  object, 
(who  had  already  spent  nearly  the  sum  of  forty  pounds  on 
the  medical  gentlemen,  without  relief)  eveing  the  doctor 
■with  a  look  of  contempt,  scarce  vouchsafed  to  return  him 
for  answer,  that  his  cure  was  impossible — and  was  prepar- 
ing to  leave  him,  wlien  the  doctor,  stopping  him,  offered  to 
cur;;  hiin  for  a  glass  of  mm.  S<i  extraordinary  a  ])roposal 
did  not  fail  to  awaken  the  attention  of  the  man,  who  consid- 
ered the  extreme  reasonableness  of  the  demand,  followed 
the  doctor  without  speaking  a  word,  into  his  laboratory,  who 
taking  out  a  botile  containing  a  black  l-quid  presented  it  to 
his  patient,  telling  him  to  drink  it  off  that  day,  and  when 
gone,  to  fetch  his  tiottle  for  more. 
Upop  a  curioas  examinution  of  the  contents  of  the  bottk, 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  5D1 

f-nillng  ft  not  iinjileasant  to  the  taste,  the  dropsical  man 
wisely  concluded  there  could  be  no  harm  in  it,  if  there  was 
no  good;  and  accordingly,  taking  the  bottle,  he  at  night 
(though  despairing  of  snccabs)  ventured  to  drink  before  h& 
went  to  bed  about  one  half  of  the  liq-jor,  and  immediately 
composed  himself  to  re^t.  But  he  had  sc-.rcely  ijeen  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  in  bed,  before  the  physic  operated  so 
fctrongly  that  he  was  obliged  to  ^et  up  and  search  for  the 
necessary  utensil.  This  was  presently  filled — upon  whch 
he  groped  about  for  tlie  one  belongiii}^  to  his  comrade, 
which,  having  found,  he  also  filled —  and  (strange  to  tell)  a 
tub  which  was  in  the  next  room,  was  nearly  filled. —So 
strong  an  evacuation  of  urine  produced,  as  we  niay  well  sup- 
pose, a  very  material  alteration  ;  tor  the  next  rnotnijig  he 
was  able  to  buckle  his  shoes,  which  he  had  not  done  fcr  a 
long  time. 

He  did  not  fail  to  call  on  the  doctor  for  a  fresh  suppl)', 
which  having  obtained,  he  continued  drinkhig  at  meals,  SvC. 
with  such  good  effects,  that  he  was  completely  cured  in 
less  than  a  week. 

A  matter  of  such  importance  could  not  fail  to  attract 
the  attention  of  the  whole  regiment,  among  whom  I  chanced 
to  be  an  eye  witness  of  it ;  and  asked  him  what  the  liquid 
was— he  mtormed  me  that  it  was  a  decoction  made  ct  the 
leaves  of  dwarf  elder.     Yours,  &c. 

56  ih.     Cure  for  the  Dropsi/. 

TAKE  a  six  quart  jug  of  old  hard  ciiier,  put  therein  a 
pint  of  mustard-seed,  one  double-handful  of  lignunivhw 
shavmgs,  one  double-handful  of  horse  reddish  roots ;  let 
them  simmer  together,  over  a  slow  fire,  forty-eight  hours, 
when  It  will  be  ht  tor  use.  Take  a  tea-cup  fuil  of  this  liquid, 
three  times  a  day;  and  it  will  work  off  the  disorder  by  urine, 
without  any  trouble  to  the  patient. 

A  most  surprising  instance  of  the  efScacv  of  this  simple 
medicine,  has  lately  taken  place  in  the  case  of  Mr.  Wm. 
Wray,  of  Lunenburg,  who,  from  the  worst  state  of  the 
dropsy,  has  by  it  been  restored  to  perfect  health. 

_,      „,.  FROM    A    PHILADELPHIA    PAPER. 

iyiei.d!i07'  haviriff  received  from  a  friend  the  folloviiiir  Hecibe  for 

the yire  oj  a  Lancer,  is  induced  from  tlw  veracity  of  the  Wier, 

and  theimpurtimceofsiich  a  reimdy  to  imny  aJJUcted  individual^ 

to  lay  ii  before  the puhhc. 

rrYf 'c  "^   ^"-^^  °^'^  Eficiiciovs   remedy  for   the   Cancer. 
-MI        the  narrow  leaftd  dock  root,  anc*  boil  it  m  water 
till  It  be  quite  sofi  then  bathe  t!ie  pait  affected  in  the  decoc- 
tion Its  hot  liS  can  be  born  three  or  four  times  a  day  ;  the 
root  must  then  be  niarshedand  applied  as  a  poultice 

This  root  has  proved  an  eifoctual  cure  In  ma.iy  instances-' 
It  was  first  mtrodi.ced  by  an  Indian  woman,  who  came  to 
the  house  o.  a  person  in  the  coi-ntiy  who  was  rAuch  Lfflicied 
witti  a  cancer  m  her  mouth;  the  Indian  perceivi  ig  ^mie- 
tmg  was  the  matter,  iuq -lired  what  it  was,  and  on  biing  iff- 


^2  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

formed,  said  she  would  ^care  her.  The  woman  consent-' 
ed  to  a  trial,  though  with  little  hopes  of  success,  having 
previously  used  many  things  without  receiving  any  benefit. 
The  Indian  went  out  and  soon  returned  with  a  root,  which 
she  boiled  and  applied  as  above,  and  in  a  short  tinne  a  cure 
was  effected.  The  Indian  was  very  careful  to  conceal  what 
these  roots  were,  and  refused  giving  any  information  res- 
pecting theiTi ;  but  happening  one  day  to  lay  some  of  them 
down,  and  stepping  out,  the  woman  concealed  one  of  the 
loots,  which  she  planted,  and  soon  discovered  what  it  was. 
Not  long  after  a  person  in  that  neighbourhood  bt:ing  afflict- 
ed with  the  same  complaint  in  her  face,  she  iuforaicd  her 
of  the  remedy*  and  in  two  weeks  she  was  cured.  Some 
time  after,  a  man  was  cured  of  a  confirmed  cancer  upon  the 
back  of  his  hand  ;  after  suffering  much,  and  being  unable  to 
get  any  rest,  being  told  of  this  root,  it  was  procured  and 
prepared  for  him  ;  he  dipped  liis  hand  in  the  water  as  hot 
us  he  could  bear  it  for  some  time  ;  the  root  was  then  applied 
as  a  poultice,  and  that  night  he  slept  comfortably,  and  in 
two  weeks  his  hand  was  entirely  cured. 

Daniel  Brown's  father,  having  had  a  cancer  in  his  head, 
had  it  cut  out,  and  apparently  healed ;  but  some  of  the 
roots  remaining,  it  again  broke  out :  his  doctor  then  inform- 
ed him  that  aothmi;  more  could  be  done,  except  burning 
it  out  witb  hot  irons  ;  this  being  too  harsh  a  remedy  to  sub" 
mit  to,  he  was  much  discouraged.  Ihe  dock  root  was  soon 
after  recommended,  and  it  cured  him  in  a  short  time. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  winter  of  1T98,  a  hard  lump  ap- 
peared in  the  middle  of  my  under  lip,  and  in  a  short  time 
became  sore  :  it  continued  in  that  situation  till  spring,  when 
it  increased  and  became  painful :  I  then  shewed  it  to  a  per- 
son of  skill,  and  soon  found  he  apprehended  it  to  be  cancer- 
ous ;  after  two  or  three  different  applications,  the  com- 
plaint increased  and  spread  rapidly.  Lot  Trip,  having 
icard  of  my  complaint,  mentioned  this  root — I  called  on 
him  to  know  the  particulars  of  it ;  he  gave  me  the  necessa- 
ry information :  the  root  was  procured,  and  used  in  the  man- 
ner above-mentioned,  taking  a  mouthful  of  water  in  which 
tlie  roots  were  boiled,  and  let  it  drop  over  my  lips  as  hot  as 
X  could  bear  it;  ihis  I  did  three  or  four  times  a  day,  and 
then  kept  the  root  to  it  a  day  and^a  night  ;  and  in  two  days 
the  pain  entirely  left  me  and  in  two  weeks  it  was  cured. 
58<A.    Remedy  far  Cancers. 

BURN  half  a  bushi  1  or  three  pecks  of  green  old  field  red 
oak  bark  to  ashes  ;  boil  these  ashes  in  three  gallons  of  wa- 
ter until  reduced  to  one  ;  strain  thai  one  gallon  off,  and  boil 
it  away  to  a  substance  similar  to  butter-milk  or  cream; 
apply  a  small  quantity  on  a  piece  of  silk  or  lint  to  the  can- 
cer, but  no  larger  than  the  place  or  part  aflFected.  I  have 
known  two  plaisters  to  effect  a  cure, where  the  cancer  lay  in  a 


USEFUL  RECEIPTSv  CSS' 

pj^per  position  for  the  medicine  immediately  to  penetrate 
lo  the  roots  of  it ;  otherwise,  it  may  take  several  plaisters, 
as  the  medicine  must  be  repeated  every  two  hours  until  the 
roots  of  the  cancer  are  killed  ;  then  apply  healing,  salve, 
with  a  little  mercurial  ointment  mixed  ihereoii,  and  dress 
it  twice  a  day  until  cured,  which  will  certainly  be  the  case 
in  twenty  or  thirty  days  at  farthest.  I  have  known  seve\ 
Vhl  persons  entirely  relieved  by  the  above  prescription  :  and 
one  in  particular,  after  two  attempts  by  a  skilful  physician 
to  remove  the  cancerous  parts  b)  exusion. 

After  being  greatly  alarmed  myself  from  a  cancer  about 
three  years  ago,  and  having  followed  some  time  the  direc- 
tions of  an  experienced  physician,  I,  contrary  to  his  orders^ 
and  notwithstanding  the  fears  of  my  family,  happily  applied, 
two  ])laisters  of  the  above  medicine,  and  no  symptoms  of  it 
have  appeared  since. 

59th.  lieceipeforthe  Cure  of  the  I/t/drophobiOi  or  the  Bite  of  a 

Jilad  Do^: 

[By  a  Physician  of  respectability  in  New-York."] 

PLACE  a  b'.ister  on  the  wound  immediately,  the  sooner 
the  better ;  and  even  if  this  has  been  neglected  till  the 
•wound  has  healed,  it  is  necessaiy  to  apply  it ;  also,  apply 
blisters  to  the  inside  of  the  ancles,  wrists,  and  between  tils 
shoulders  of  the  patient,  keeping  two  running  at  a  timft., 
Keep  the  patient  in  the  free  use  of  vinegar,  either  in  food  or 
drink;  and  if  lie  has  not  got  a  tight  room,  make  it  so  by 
hanging  up  blankets ;  then  boil  a  quart  or  two  of  vinegar,. 
place  it  in  the  room  of  the  patient  on  a  chafing-dish  or  ket- 
tle of  coals,  and  let  the  patient  continue  in  the  room  fifteeri 
minutes  at  a  time  morning  and  evening,  and  often  wet  his 
ancles,  feet  and  wrists  with  it. 

Give  him  three  or  four  doses  of  the  following  medicine  in. 
the  course  of  three  weeks,  that  is  as  often  as  one  in  five  or 
six  days: — Calomel  eight  grains,  native  cinnabar  and  salt  of  ^ 
amber  each  four  grains,  to  each  dose,  to  be  taken  in  the 
morning  in  molasses ;  also,  give  him  a  decotion  of  tea,  made 
of  sarsapharilla  loot  3.nd  guiacum  chips,  (commonly  called 
lignum  vitx  dust).  If  tlie  patient  is  actually  labouring  un-^ 
der  the  symptoms  of  the  hydrophobia,  give  the  several  rem-; 
edies  more  frequently;  if  soon  after  the  bite  as  above.  If. 
the  patient  actually  has  the  disorder,  when  first  attended  to^ 
repeat  the  remedies  until  he  recovers;  if  immediately  af- 
ter the  bite,  it  will  be  necessary  to  attend  him  for  three 
veeks,  which  generally,  clears  him  from  infection.  His 
diet  must  be  light  and  easy  of  digestion. generally,  though  he. 
may  make  a  moderate  use  of  animal  food ;  but  he  must, 
strictly  avoid  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors.  The  above  is  th?> 
i^eneral  plan  I  follow.  LOT  TRIP. 

GO Ih.  Curejov  the  Bite  of  a  Mad  Bo^. 

XHE  i-OTts  of  elecampane,  (the  plant  st^ay-wcvtli)  poiinS- 


isn  USRIUL  RECEIPTS. 

ed  soft,  boiled  in  new  milk,  and  given  plentifully  to  ^ny  tiling 
that  is  bitten,  durins^  forts'-eight  hours,  (keeping  the  subject 
from  all  other  food  have  been  found  an  effectual  remedy  for 
this  dreadful  and  frequently  fatal  malady. — .A'*  Y.  F  per. 
61s?.  Cure  for  the  Bite  of  a  Mad  Dog. 
THE  following  remedy  f  ^r  the  bite  of  a  mad  dog  is  re  • 
commended  in  the  French  papers  : — A  new  laid  egg  is  to 
be  beaten  up  and  put  into  a  frying-pan,  with  oil  of  olives, 
cold  drawn,  and  dressed,  but  not  too  dry.  Into  this  is  to  be 
put  a  great  quantity  of  powder  of  calcined  oyster  shells, 
■which  is  to  be  sprinkled  in  such  quantities  as  the  mixture 
vill  absorb.  This  is  to  be  given  as  a  dose  which  is  to  be 
repeated  for  nine  days  fasting ;  and  the  wound  is  at  the  same 
time  to  be  washed  with  salt  water.  The  author  of  it  pro- 
fesses to  have  tried  it  with  repeated  success,  on  man,  dogs, 
and  other  animals. 

rnOJI   A  CII-lRtESTOX  PAtER. 

C'3rf.  Ills  LtfuLiible  Cure  for  the  JJvscnterv. 
1  HAVE  been  acquainted  with  it  nearly  forty  years,  and 
never  knew  it  to  fail.  1  have  cured  all  that  ever  had  it  on 
my  plantation,  and  myself  several  times.  Mot  forty  days 
past,  I  was  affl'Cted  witli  the  dysentary>  and  cured  myself 
Tv'iih  the  receipt  under  written.  About  thirty  years  ago,  I 
cured  tv.'o  persons  in  t^havleston,  who  had  been  under  the 
care  of  three  physicians,  anol  it  had  baflled  their  art  and 
bkdl  ;  yet  this  receipt  cured  them  in  a  few  days.  'Ihe  pub- 
lic may  rely  on  the  efBcacy  and  infaUbility  of  the  receipt, 
viz  — As  soon  as  you  find  the  flux  is  bad  if  possible  before 
it  comes  to  the  dysentery,  drink  thiee  or  four  tea-cupfulsof 
iTielted  suet  dailv,  sa\  a  ';iip  full  every  three  or  four  hours ; 
let  the  food  be  the  flour  of  well  parched  'ndian  corn  made 
Into  a  pap  with  new  milk,  and  sweetened  with  loaf  sugar  ; 
and  let  the  drink  be  nothing  else  but  a  strong  tea  made  with 
chipt-d  logwood,  or  red  oak  bark,  and  sweetened  with  loaf 
bugar,  though  it  will  do  without  sweetening.  \Mxen  you  find 
it  is  checked,  mak  ■  the  lea  weaker  ;  should  it  stop  too  sud- 
den, take  a  little  salts.  With  the  above  simples,  I  can  cure 
thousarsds  without  the  loss  of  one.  The  cure  will  be  effect- 
ed in  five,  six  or  seven  days. 

C;W.  Cvre  for  the  Duseiiierv. 
TAKE  of  the  roots  of  the  lov.'-runnini;"  blackberry  vine, 
one  large  handful ;  make  a  strong  tea  o'l  them  in  the  same 
manner  as  you  wc^uld  niake  other  tea,  oidy  let  it  stand  on  the 
Coals  a  little  longer. — Gise  two  tea-cups  full  to  an  adult,  and 
one  to  a  child,  .\fter  it  has  operated,  give  the  patient  a 
plenty  of  low  balm  tea,  or  C(  Id  water  if  ])referred.  Be  care- 
it'ul  when  the  appetite  returns,  to  give  them  but  a  little  to  eat 
ot  a  time,  and  that  as  often  as  the  appetite  calls,  and  no 
oftener  Tiiis  blackberry  root  tea  ojjerates  as  a  thorough 
fcjit  gentle  purge  in  this  complaint,  and  as  soon  as  it  operates-, 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  293 

it  changes  the  nature  of  the  stools  ;  that  is,  histend  of  blood, 
&c.  the  stools  will  be  of  a  greenish  froth,  and  so  will  continue 
to  be  until  they  become  natural. 

64„'/i.  Cure  for  the  Dysentery. 

TAKE  new  churned  butter  without  salt,  and  just  skim- 
Tning  off  the  curdy  part,  when  melted  over  a  clear  fire,  give 
two  spoonfuls  of  the  clarihed  remainder,  twice  or  thrice 
within  a  day,  to  the  person  s>o  affected.  This  has  never 
failed  to  make  al.r.ost  an  instant  cnre. 

6j^A.  For  the  Dysentery  SJ  Colera,  or  Vomiting. 

TAKE  oil  of  pennyroyal,  two  drops  to  a  table-spoonful  of 
molasses,  S)  rup  or  honey  ;  after  being  well  stirred  up,  let 
©ne  tea  spoonful  be  administered  every  hour  until  it  has  the 
desired  enfect,  which  from  experience,  I  can  safely  assure 
the  public,  will  be  found  in  every  ca^^e  of  the  above  disorder, 
to  be  a  speedy  and  certain  cure.  For  a  grown  jjcrson,  the 
dose  may  be  doubled,  and  given  in  the  sa^-'p  mriner. 

From  an  Old  Lady. 
(>^th.  .,111  InfaUlble  Cure  for  the  St.  Jlnthoriv^s  Fire. 

I  AM  neither  physician,  surgeon,  apothecary  nor  nos 
trum-monger,  (says  a  correspoisdent)  but  totally  ignorant  of 
the  materia  medica,  except  that  I  have  swallowed  large 
draughts  of  it,  to  cure  me  of  painful  returns  of  St.  Anthony's 
Fne  at  spring  and  fall.  In  vain,  alas!  did  I  swallow  ;  for 
the  saint  wascns.stant  in  his  visit  at  the  accustomed  time, 
notwithstanding  the  repeated  pro'|->hecics  of  my  doctor  and 
apothecaries  to  the  contrary.  Fvirtunately  for  me,  ten 
years  since,  1  w?.s  favovn-ed  witli  a  visit  from  a  good  ladv, 
daring  tiie  spring  confine  r&it,  who  told  me,  if  J  would  at  the 
time,  take  the  elder  tree  blossoms  and  in  the  spring  of  the 
year,  at  e«ch  season,  for  a  mon*h,  drink  every  morning; 
tasting,  half  a  pint  of  elder  flower  tea,  and  the  same  in  the 
afternoon,  that  it  would  drown  the  saint.  The  next  season 
of  the  elder  tree  blossoming,  I  followed  her  advice,  as  a'so 
th^  spring  following,  and  have  done  so  these  nine  vears ; 
since  whioli  time,  the  saint  has  not  tormented  me  in  the  least. 
I  have  recommended  this  tea,  from  my  experience  of  its 
eflicacy,-  to  ten  of  my  fellow-suff-Ters  since  my  own  case, 
overv  one  of  whom  has  fmnd  it  a  specific  remedy. 

When  the  elder  tree  is  in  blossom,  a  sufficiei;t  quantity  of 
the  fl:->wersshonld  be  gathered,  in  a  dry  day.  and  dried  with 
great  care  for  the  spring  use.  The  tea  is  made,  hv  pouring 
a  quart  of  boiling  water  on  two  handfuls  of  elder  flower?, 
■n'hen  green  ;  a  less  quanti'.y  will  do  when  dry.  It  may  be 
drank  hot  or  cold,  as  best  su'ts  the  stomach.  Each  single 
blossom  is  not  to  be  picked  off,  but  the  heads  from  the  main 
stalks. 

()7th.  For  St.  ^mhony^s  Fire. 
TAKE  a  purge;  and  an"int  with  .he  marrow  of  mutton. 
CSiA.  .^n  ad'iurcble  Recipe  for  a  Cotiaumptioii, 

TAKE  of  Madeira,  (or  good  gen&rous  mountain)  wine. 


.•S6  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

iwo  quarts;  balsam  of  Gilead,  two  ounces;  albauuxn  ia 
tears,  (grossly  powdered)  two  ounces,  flowers  of  Benjamia 
lialf  an  ounce,  let  the  mixture  stand  three  or  four  days  near 
•he  fire,  frequently  shaking;  then  add  thereto,  of  Narbonne 
lioney  four  ounces,  extract  of  Canadian  maiden  hair  eight 
ounces,  shake  the  bottle  well,  and  strain  oft  the  liquor.  The 
dose  two  tea-spoonfuls,  to  be  taken  once  in  four  hours,  ia 
.colt-foot  tea  or  water,  sweetened  witli  capillaire. 

N.  B.  The  Canadian  maiden-hair,  which  we  now  import 
from  thence  in  i^Yeat  plenty  is  infinitely  superior  to  that 
which  grows  in  England.  A  strong  infusion  made  of  this? 
herb,  sweetened  with  honey  or  sugar  candy,  is  the  best 
ptisan  which  can  possibly  be  drank  by  consumptive  people-, 
and  will  of  itself  cure  any  recent  cough. 

69;/i.  Cure  for  the  Heart  Burjt. 

EAT  two  cr  three  meats  of  peach-stones,  of  any  kind  of 
peach,  and  it  will  etfect  a  cure  inamediately.  Those  ^\hiQhL 
are  dry  are  preferable. 

FROM    A   TIHGII^rA   PAPEII. 

70th.  Infallible  and  Effectual  Ctae  for  the  Stone. 
THROUGH  the  channel  of  your  paper  I  request  a  iniblicalion  of 
ic  (bllowiiig  cure  for    the    stone  by  dissoliition.    The  geutleraan  bjr 
hose  consent  and  desire,  and  upon  whose  authority  the  subsequent 
■cts  are  oftered  to  the  public,  is  a  Mr.  RichNid  JIajor,  of  Loudoi^ 
ou.ily,  in  this  suite,   minister  of  the  baptist  society  ;  a  niaii  of  integ» 
.iy,  and  much  respected.     Being  in  company  •with  him   a  few  days, 
;a,  1  liiul  the  following  relation  from  his  own  mouth  : — 
That  havinj;  for  a  number  of  years  been  afHieted  with  that  painful, 
•ilisciiSe,  he  was  at  length  informed  tliMt  a  certain  ph_\  sic'.aii,  liis  name 
unknown,  labouring  under  the  same  disease,  being  at  Berkley  spring,, 
a  negro  man  iJiere  proffered  to  cure  him  :  This  he  at  first  disregarded. 
Out  e.vpecting  a  speedy  dissolution  uidess  some  aid  could  be  obtained, 
sflerwards  sent  for  the  negro,   who  agreed   to  cure   hin\    for    three 
pounils.     He  accordingly  nnderlocdt,  and  in  a  short  lime   effectually 
crailicated  the  disorder.    The  ]ihysician  then  gave  him  his  choice  oB 
freeilora  by  purchase  in  lieu  of  the  contract  betwixt  them,  on  coridition 
lie  would  disclose  the  means  of  the  cure;  towiiich  the  slave  agreed.  The 
leceipt  is  the  expressed  juice  of  the  horse-mint  and  red  onions;  one' 
gill  of  each  to  be  t;iken  morning   and    evening   till  the  complaint   be 
removed.    That  he,  Mr.  Major,  being  urged  to  a  trial  of  the  above- 
jnentioncd  remedy,  submitted  to  it,   though  with  some  reluctance,  as- 
Jie  conceived  liis  term  of  life  tobebut  sliort  at  most.    Not  having  it  ia 
his  po'.ver  lo  procure  green  mint,  so  as  to  get  the  .luice,  he  used  instead 
thereof,  a  slrr,ng  decoction  of  the  dried  herb  :  in  other  respects  strictly 
adhereingto  the  prcscripliop,  whicli  had  the  desired  effect.   He  began 
the  exjieriment  in  August,  and  wiilun  a  week  he  had   ocular  demon- 
stration  of  flissolulion   by  the    slightest   touch  of  a  particle  that  had 
■passed  from  him,  which  continued  so  to  do  without  pain  or  the  least 
obstruction,  until  the  stone  was  entirely  dissolved,  and  the   cure  com- 
pletely effected  before  the  ensuing  spring.  That  from  the  time  the  dis- 
ordei"  beg3n  to  yield  as  aforcsiiid,  he  daily  rccov  ered  his  health,  Strength 
&nd  flesh,  and  was  in  as  gf)od  plight  as  ever,  age  excepted,  being  at  the 
time  seventy  two  years   of  age,    with   an   appearance   corresponding 
v.ith  his  owu  account ;  andsshc  faither  said,  with^iU  the  slight^t* 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  2ti 

i<ftack  of  the  flisordcr  from  the  time  he  began  to  use  the  above  rneada 
Qt'cure.    This,  at  his  request,  is  coinraunicitted  to  the  public  by 

DAXIEL  ROJiEKDlEU. 
71*^  Indian  Method  of  Curing  Spittmg  of  lilood. 
[Com    uiiicated  in  a  letter  to  ilic  late  Doctor  '.lead. J 

THE  following  case  is  a  very  eitraordinaij  one  ;  but  I  know  the 
geutleiuan  to  be  a  inaii  of  veracity,  and  had  this  account  from  his  own 
mouth.  He  was  of  a  tiiiii,  hectic  constitution,  and  laboured  under  a 
troublesome  pulmonaiy  coujjli  for  aome  years  ;  at  last  he  was  taken 
wkli  au  hsenioptoe,  for  which  he  had  the  best  advice  he  could  get  in 
Maryland,  but  he  grew  rather  worse  under  the  care  of  tw  o  physicians 
who  attended  him  tor  several  months;  and  at  last  he  was  prevailed 
upon  to  put  himself  under  the  care  of  a  negro  fellow,  who  is  the  Ward 
of  Maryland  :  for  he  has  tlie  reputation  of  performing  some  extraor- 
dinary cures,  though  nature  lias  the  chief  claim  to  them  :  but  indeed 
this  was  not  the  case  here. — In  short,  he  advised  the  gentleuian  to  go 
into  a  waria  bath  twice  a  day,  and  sit  up  to  his  chin  in  it,  for  two  o» 
three  minutes  at  a  time,  and  as  soon  as  he  came  out  to  dash  cold  wa- 
ter several  times  on  his  breast,  and  to  wear  flannel  next  his  skin.  Tliia 
method  soon  relieved  the  gentleman  ;  and  when  I  lelt  Marylund,  which 
was  about  seven  or  eight  years  after  the  cure,  he  remaineil  fi-i-  ir.jm 
his  hicmoptoe,  eased  very  muoli  of  his  cough,  and  went  through  a  good 
<leal  of  exercise. 

72  J.  A  Receipt  for  Bitters  to  prevent  the  Feve'  and  Ague,  mid  all 
other  Fall  Fevers. 

TAKE  of  common  meadow  calamus  cut  into  sm?»il  pieces,  of  rue, 
vormwood  and  camomile,  or  centaury,  or  hoar-lsound,  of  each  two 
ounces,  add  to  them  a  quart  of  spring  water,  and  take  a  wine  glass  full 
of  it  every  morning  tasting.  Tiiis  cheap  and  excellent  infusion  is  fa^ 
more  effectual  than  raw  spirits,  ir-  preventins  fevers,  and  ne>er  sub« 
jects  the  person  who  uses  it  to  an  ofTensive  brealli,  or  to  the  danger  ok" 
contracting  a  love  for  spirituous  liquors.- 

73ri  .i  certain  Cure  for  Corns. 

TAKE  two  i\'y  leaves  and  put  them  into  vinegar  for  twenty-fou? 
hours  ;  apply  one  of  them  to  the  corn,  and  when  you  find  its  virtue 
extracted,  apply  the  other,  «ind  it  will  effectually  and  speedily  remove 
the  corn  without  the  least  pain. 

74^'i.    To  mtike  the  most  cheap  and  simple  Electric  Machine. 

TAKE  a  piece  of  plank  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  square,  place 
two  small  posts  ata  distance  that  will  t«ke  the  length  of  a  bo^ile  that  will 
h.">ld  perhaps  a  quart ;  the  bottle  must  be  round,  and  of  Aim  rIups, 
(they  may  be  had  at  the  apothecaries  for  3s.  or  3s.  and  Gd.)  put 
\i\  a  hard  wooden  stopple,  at  the  other  end  stick  on  a  pice  of  hard 
w'ood  with  any  glutinous  matter,  such  as  shoemaker's  wax  or  the  like  j 
jnake  a  small  hole  in  the  center  of  this  wood,  and  the  stopple,  to  re- 
ceive two  points  which  come  thro'  the  posts  ;  thus  the  bottle  being 
hung  in  a  rolling  position,  let  a  band  go  round  the  neck,  and  be  con- 
veyed to  a  wheel,  eight  or  nine  inches  over  which  turtis  with  a  crank. 
Then  take  an  eight  ounce  vial,  coat  it  inside  and  out  with  tin  foil  ; 
this  may  be  stuck  on  with  stiff  gine  or  candied  oil;  the  vial  must 
have  a  large  nose,  or  it  will  be  difficult  to  coat  the  inside  ;  cork  it 
tight,  liaving  a  wire  run  throujih  the  middle  of  the  cork  with  a  com- 
mon leaden  bullet  on  the  top  ;  bind  the  wire  so  that  the  ball  may 
come  within  half  an  incli  of  the  cylinder  or  large  bottle  ;  place  it  in 
the  center  of  the  cylinder,  then  having  a  piece  of  deerskin  leather 
sewed  up  and  stuffed  in  form  of  a  pincusion,  having  amalgarn  rubbed 
■M  one  ade,  hold  it  to  the  cvlinder  opposite  to  the  ball ;  put  \h^  rs^- 
C  c2 


Uaa  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

^ne  in  motion,  anil  the  iire  vill  collect  and  fill  tliC  small  ml.  To 
take  a  shock,  hold  the  vial  where  it  is  eoutcd  with  Oiie  hand,  toiicbk 
ihc  ball  Willi  the  oiliet*.  If  a  numbei-  of  pcrsoua  wish  to  take  a  siiock 
at  ouco,  the  person  at  one  end  of  the  circle  holds  the  vial,  whilst  that 
an  the  oiher  touches  the  ball ;  the  vial  must  not  be  coaled  within  one 
/■nth  of  the  top. 

To  make  amalgam,  take  half  an  ounce  ofspeltar,  melt  it,  mix  wilU 
it  half  an  ounce  of  quick-silver  ;  whilst  warm,  grind  it  to  a  powder- 
rhis  machine  is  very  useful  where  a  stagnation  of  bloo<l  or  any  kind 
nf  numbness  has  taken  place  ;  for  sudden  pain,  &ic.  The  writer  has 
i'eason  to  speak  well  of  this  machine,  as  it  was  one  time  the  means 
of  saving  his  life.  It  is  sincerely  wished  thai  a  physician  or  some  other 
person  wo'.dd  keep  one  in  each  town  ;  the  expence  is  no  niore  than 
seven  or  cij;ht  shillinus. 

75  th  To  Cure  Children  in  the  tcorst  stage  of  Intoxication. 
THK  writer  has  twice  known  the  instance   of  children,  insensible 
of  the  effect  of  spirituous  liquor,  drinking   to  that  degree  that  life  was 
despaired  of.  On  their  being  placed  in  a  tub  of  warm  water  over  theip 
hips  and  a  lea-kettlc  of  cold  water  being  poured  on  their  head,  they 
j'mmediately  recovered,  and  are  now  in  perfeei  health.  If  this  receipt 
may  be  the  means  of  saving  the  life  of  but  one    child  in  the  course 
x>f  time,  the  writer  will  think  himself  richly  paid  for  his  trouble. 
7^tL  Cure  for  the  Ague. 
DRINK  the  decoction,   (that  is  the  boiling  of  any   herb)    of  camc- 
niile,  and  sweeten  it  witli  treacle  ;  which  drink  when  warm  in   bed- 
aurt  sweat  two  hours.    Or,  to  the  wrists  apply  a  mixture  of  rue,  mtis* 
fard,  and  chimney  s<jot,  by  way  of  plaister. 

77  th.    Cure  for  Almonds  of  the  Ears  fallen  down. 
TAKE  a  little   bole  armeniac  in   powder,  and    with  it  mix   some 
Venice  turpentine,  and  spread  it  ori  sheep's  leather,  as   broad   as  A 
5tay,  and  apply  it  under  the  throat  from  ear  to  ear. 
78th.  A  Cure  for  Frost  Bitten  Feet. 
TAKE  the  fat  of  a  dung-hill  fowl,  and  rub  the  place  or  places  af- 
fected with  it,  morning  and  evening,  over  a  warm  ftt-e  ;  at  the  same 
time  wr»p])ing  a  piece  of  woolen  cloth,  well  greased  with  the  said  fet, 
pound  the  frost  bitten  parts.    In  two  or  three  days  they  will  feel   no 
pain,  and  in  five  or  six  days  will  be  quite  cured. 

JVote. — If  liie  inner  bark  of  the  elder,  or  the  leaves  of  plantain,  are 
•©•St  simmered  in  said,  fat  it  will  be  the  better. 

7'J/A.     To  Cure  the  Asthnn,  or  shortness  of  Breath 
TAKE  a  quart  of  aqua   vilse,  one  ounce  of  annisecd  bruised,  one 
ounce  of  liquorice  slieed,  and  lialf  a  pound  of  stoned  rnisms  ;  let  them 
steep  ten  days  in   tlie  above-mentioned,  then  pourit  offinlo  a  bottle, 
C'ilh  two  spoonfuls  of  fine  sugar,  and  slop  it  very  close. 

80th.  To  make  Itch  Ointment,  a  certain  Cure  for  the  Itch. 
TAKE  one  ounce  of  gum  arable,  dissolve  in  two  gills  of  water ;  then 
"ake  one  pound  of  freslj  butter,  put  it  in  with  gum  water,  melt  and  try 
•  t  together  till  the  water  is  ott ;  ihcn  let  stand  till  no  more  than  blood 
warm,  then  add  two  ounces  of  sjiirits  of  turpentine  and  two  ounces  of 
yed  precipitate,  stir  and  mi.x  them  with  the  butler  and  gum,  and  box 
it  up  to  keep  it  fixjm  the  air,  and  fit  for  use.  By  carrying  a  box  of  it, 
it  will  be  a  preventitive  against  the  disonler  :  it  gives  no  disagreeable 
smell  from  the  use  of  it  You  may  rub  a  little  round  your  knees  and 
elbows,  and  j-ou  may  sleep  with  a  person  actually  afflicted  with  the 
iteb,  without  danger  of  catching  the  disorder:  to  cure  the  itch,  Like 
ihis  ointment,  rub  off  the  pimples,  warm  the  ointment  if  the  weatheB 
4i  C7ld,  aad  rub  it  met  ttew,  aud  coatiauc  if,  three  times  b  a  weel^ 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  29JI 

tHl  tliC  sk\n  becomes  smooth,  -aliith  will  be  in  a  week  or  ten  days^ 
oint  when  going  to  bed  :  it  is  well  to  have  cltsui  linen,  &tc. 
8  is/.  Cure  for  the  Salt  Rheum. 

TAKE  one  ounce  ot  salts  of  tartur,  dissolve  it  in  twenty-six  sj)oonfi<ia. 
af  fair  water  ;  then  take  one  siioonful  of  pure  lime  juice  and  add  a 
lump  of  loaf  sugar  as  large  as  a  walnut,  let  it  dissolve  ;  then  adO  a 
spoonful  of  the  tartai-  liquor  dissolved  as  abo\e,  and  give  it  the  patieut 
before  eating,  twice  in  twenty-four  hours. 

82c£  Jin  effectual  Cure  for  the  Rheumatism. 

WHEN  the  patient  is  aflbcted  wiili  this  painful  disease,  take  the 
♦ow  of  dax,  and  twist  a  lai-ge  slack  cord,  and  fasten  il  round  the  part 
afi^.cted  and  contmue  wearing  it  uexi  the  skin  ;  it  will  efieet  a  cure  j 
have  faith  try  it  and  see. 

%3th.     Gooil  Ciiler  as  easily  made  as  had. 

TO  make  cider  of  early  or  late  fruit,  iliat  will  keep  a  length  at 
time,  without  the  trouble  of  freijuent  drawing  off— Take  the  largest 
<>ask  you  have  on  your  farm,  from  a  barrel  upwards  ;  put  a  few  sticky 
in  the  bottom,  in  the  manner  that  house-wives  set  a  lye  cask,  so  as 
to  raise  a  vacancy  of  two  or  three  niches  from  the  boituni  of  the  cask  ; 
then  lay  over  these  sticks  either  a  clean  old  blanket,  or  if  that  be  not 
at  hand,  a  quantity  of  swindling  flax,  so  as  to  make  a  coat  of  about  ik 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  then  put  in  so  much  cleaned  washed  sand, 
from  a  beach  or  road,  as  wdl  cover  about  six  or  eight  inches  in  deptiv 
of  your  vessel ;  pass  all  your  cider  from  the  pivss  through  a  table 
cloth,  suspended  by  the  corners,  which  will  lake  mil  the  pummice  j 
and  pour  the  liquor  gently  upon  the  sand,  through  which  it  must  be 
.sufTered  to  filter  gradually,  and  as  it  runs  off  by  a  tap  inserted  in  youu 
Tcssel,  in  the  vacancy  made  by  the  sticks  at  the  bottom,  it  will  be 
found  by  this  easy  method,  as  clear  eider  can  be  expected  by  the  mos6 
Taborious  pix)cess  of  refining;  and  all  the  mucilaginous  tuatter,  which 
causes  the  fermentation  and  souring  of  cider,  will  be  separated  so  as 
to  prevent  that  disagreeable  consequence. 

N.  B.  Otheufc  methods  may  be  easily  invented  foi-  passing  the  cideQ 
Cbrough  the  satW,  which  is  the  only  essential  part  of  the  above  proeess 
Sit/u     Method  of  making  ,dpple  Brandy. 

The  following  reeeipt  for  ninking  Apple  Brandy,  was  coramunicat* 
a\  by  Joseph  Cooper,  esq.  of  Gloucester  county,  New-Jersy,  accom- 
panied with  a  specimen  of  the  liquor,  made  n  the  manner  lie  re- 
presented. The  liquor  is  mild,  mellow  and  pleasent ;  and  greatIV 
superior  to  apple  spirits  pr()cure<l  !.y  the  common  procesa 

Put  the  cider,  previous  to  distillinir,  into  vessels  free  from  must  otj 
smell,  and  keep  it  till  in  the  state  which  is  commonly  called  good, 
sound  citler  ;  bat  not  till  sour,  as  that  lessens  the  quantity  and  injures 
fSiequaUty  of  the  spirit.  In  the  distillation,  let  it  run  perfectly  cool  from 
the  worm,  and  in  the  first  time  of  distilling,  not  longer  than  it  will 
flash  when  cast  on  the  still  head  and  alighted  candle  applied  under  if. 
In  the  second  distillation,  shift  the  vessel  as  soon  as  the  spirit  runs  be- 
low proof,  or  has  a  disagreeable  smell  or  taste,  and  put  what  runs  af- 
ter with  the  low  wines.  By  this  method,  the  spirit,  if  distilled  from 
good  cider,  w  II  take  nearly  or  quite  one  third  of  its  quantity  to  bring 
it  to  proof;  for  which  purjiose,  take  the  last  running  from  a  cheese 
of  good  water  cider,  direct  from  the  press,  uafermented,  and  in  forty, 
aight  hours  the  spirit  will  be  milder  and  better  flavoured  than  in  seve- 
ral years  standing  if  manufactured  in  the  common  way.  Wlien  the 
spirit  is  drawn  off,  which  may  be  done  in  fi  e  or  six  <iays,  tliere  will 
be  a  jelly,  at  the  bottom,  which  may  be  distilled  again,  or  put  into  the 
Ijwt  wicr  or  tiscd  foi-  making  ciiler  royal,  i|  fceiug  better  /or  the  ptu.*. 


aO«  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

pose  that  the  clear  spirit,  as  it  will  greatly  facilitate  in   refining  the 
liquor.  JOSEPH  COOPER. 

85  th.    A   Receipt  to  muke  an  excellent  American  Wine  :  commU' 

mcaied  to  the    tturUnjton  Society  for  promoting  Agriculture  and 

Domestic   Alunufactories  ;  by  Joseph  Cooper,  esq.  oj    Gloucester 

county,  J\''ew-Jersy. 

I  PU  r  a  qiiaiitiiy  of  the  comb,  from  which  the  honey  had  been 
drained,  into  a  tub  to  which  1  added  a  barrel  of  cider  immediately 
from  the  press  :  This  mixture  was  well  stirred,  and  left  lo  soak  for 
one  night.  It  was  then  strained,  before  a  fermentation  had  taken 
place  !  and  honey  was  added  until  the  strength  of  the  liquor  was  suflS- 
•ient  to  beai-  an  egg.  It  was  then  put  into  a  barrel  ;  and  after  the 
fermentation  coininenced,  tlie  cask  was  filled  every  day,  for  three 
or  four  days,  that  the  filth  might  work  out  the  bung  hole  When  the 
fcriuentation  moderated,!  put  the  bung  in  loosely,  lest  stopping  it  tight 
might  cause  the  cask  ti)  burst.  At  the  end  of  five  or  sis  weeks  the 
liquur  was  drawn  off  into  a  tub,  and  the  white  of  eiglil  eggs,  well  beat 
up,  with  a  pint  ofe'e^n  sand,  were  put  into  it — I  then  added  a  gallon 
of  cider  spii'it ;  and  after  mixing  the  whole  together,  I  returned  it  into 
the  cask,  which  was  well  cleansed,  bunged  it  tight  and  place<l  it  in  a 
proper  situation  for  racking  off  when  fine.  In  the  month  of  April  fol- 
k>wing,I  drew  it  off  into  kegs,  for  use  ;  and  found  it  equal,  in  my  opin- 
ion, to  almost  any  fortign  wine.  In  the  opniion  of  many  judges,  it  was 
sopLiiour. 

This  success  has  induced  me  to  repeat  the  experiment  for  three 
years  ;  and  I  am  persuaded,  that  by  using  the  clean  honev,  instead  of 
the  comb,  as  above  described,  such  an  improvement  might  be  made, 
as  would  enable  the  citizens  of  the  U  .States  to  supply  themselves  with 
a  truly  federal  and  whoisome  wine,  which  would  not  cost  one  quartev 
of  a  ilollar  per  gallon,  ■were  all  the  ingredients  procured  at  the  mai-ket 
price  ;  and  wotild  have  this  peculiar  advantage  over  every  other  wine 
hitherto  attemiited  in  this  countrj',  that  it  contains  no  foreign  mixture, 
but  is  made  from  ingredients  produced  on  our  own  farms. 
By  order  of  tlie  Society, 

Wm.  Coxb,  jun.  Secretary. 
SC/A.  A  JMethod  of  making  Currant  fflne,  which  had  beenpractised 
by  many  and  found  to  be  genuine. 

[Extracted  from  the  Transactions  of     e  Philosophical  Society  of 
Philadelphia.] 

GATHER  your  currants  when  full  ripe  ;  break  them  well  in  a 
lub  or  vat;  press  and  measure  your  juiee  ;  add  two  thirds  water, 
and  to  each  gallon  of  mixture,  (juice  add  water)  put  three  pounds  of 
muscovado  sugar,  tJie  cleaner  and  drier  the  better  ;  very  coarse  su- 
gai',  fir^t  clarified,  will  <lo  equally  as  w«'ll  :  stir  it  well  till  the  sugar  is 
well  dissolved,  and  then  bung  it  up.  Your  iuice  should  not  stand  ovec 
night  if  you  can  possiblv  help  it,  as  it  should  not  ferment  before  mix- 
ture.  Observe  that  your  cask  be  sweet  and  clean.  Do  not  be  prevail, 
ed  on  to  add  more  than  one  third  of  juice,  as  above  prescribed,  for 
that  would  render  it  infallibly  hard  and  unpleasent  :  nor  yet  a  greater 
projwrdon  of  sugar,  as  it  will  certainly  deprive  it  of  its  pure  vinoas 
taste. 

OF  MAKING  SUNDRY  SORTS  OF  BRHISH  WINES. 
%7tlu     Currant  Wine. 

PICK  the  currants  (when  they  are  full  ripe)  clean  from  the  stalk?, 
then  put  thera  into  an  earthen  vessel,  and  pour  on  them  fair  and  clean 
hot  water,  that  is,  it  quart  of  water  to  a  gallon  of  currants  ;  then 
lixaiin  or  loarsh  tUc;n  together}  ^nd  let  them  stand  and  ferjaefit.i 


USEFUL  .RECEIPTS.  GOJj 

ihea  cover  them  for  twelve  hours,  strain  them  througTi  line  lincti 
into  a  large  earthen  crock,  (as  they  sitj'  in  Sussex)  and  iheri  put  lite 
liquor  into  a  cusk,  and  thereto  pnt  a  little  ale-yeast;  and  when  work- 
eci  and  settled,  bottle  it  off.  This  is  evceedirig  jjleasaiit,  and  very 
wholesome  for  cooling  the  blood.  In  a  weak's  time  it  vill  be  fit  fof 
bottUng. 

88/A.    Jlrtijinal  Caret 
TAKE  six  gallons  of  water,  two  gallons  of  the   best  cider,  and 
tliereto  put  eight  jiounds  of  the  best  ]Ma!aga  raisins  bruised  ;  let  them 
stand  close  covt;red  in  a  warm  place  for  two  weeks,  stirring  them  eve» 
ly  two   (lays  welt  together  ;  then   press  out  the   liquor  into  a  ve&sel 
:igain,  and  add  to  it  a  quart  of  the  juice  of  barheri  ies,  (which  perhaps 
is  best)  to  which  jjUt  a  pint  of  the  jnice  of  black  cherries  :  work  it  up 
with  naif tard  seed  covered  with  bread  past  for  three  or  four  days,  by 
the  fire  side  ;  after  which,  let  it  stand  a  week  ;  then  bottle  it  off,  and 
it  will  become  near  as  good,  if  not  so  as  to  exceed,  common  claret. 
89/A.     Goosef)evrif    Wine. 
The  best  way  is  lo  take  for  every  three  pounds  of  fruit,  one  pound  of 
sugar,  and  a   quart  of  fair   wairr ;  boil  the  water  vciy  well,  but  yea 
.must  put  in  the  aforesaid   quantity  of  sugar  when  it  is  boiled  ;  brube 
the  fruit,  and  steep  it  twenty -four  hours  in  the  water;  stir  it  some 
time,  then  strain  it  off,  and  put  the  sugar  to  it  and  let  it  stand  in  a  run- 
let close  stopped  for  a  fortnight ;  then  draw  it  off,  and  set  it  up  in  a 
"cellar,  and  in  two  months,  it  will  be  fit  to  drink. 
QOtk.     Jiaspbeny   Wine. 
TAKE  the  raspberries  clear  from  the  stalks  ;  to  a  gallon  of  which 
.jiiit  a  bottle  of  white-wine,  and  let  them  infuse  in  an  earthen  vessel 
two  or  three  days  close  covered  ;  then  bruise  the  berries  in  the  -wine, 
and  strain  them   through  fine  linen  gewtly ;  then  let   it  simmer  over 
a  moderate  firo  ;  skim  off  the   froth,  and  then   strain  it  again,  and, 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  to  a  gallon,  let  it  settle  ;  then, 
in  a  half  a  pint  of  white  wine  boil  an  ounce  of  well  scented  cinnamon,   • 
and  a  little  mace,  and  put  the  wine,  strained  from  the  spice,  into  it, 
and  bottle  it  up. 

91  s^     Dfimson  Wine. 
DRY  the  damsons  in  an  oven  after  you  have  taken  out  your  breadj 
then    to   every  quart  of  damsons  put  three  quarts  of  i'air  water,  but 
first  boil  it  very  well ;  then   put  the  water  and  damsons  into  a  runlet 
with  sugar  ;  and  having -stood  a  time  suflScient,  bottle  it  of. 
92£/.     Wine  of  Grapes. 
WHEN  they  are  full  ripe,  in  a  dry  day,   pick  off  those  grapes  that 
are  ripest ;  and  squeeze  them  in  a  vat    or  press  made  for  that  pur- 
pose, in  which  must  he  a  fine  canvass  bag  to  contain  the  grapes,  and 
when  in  the  press  do  not  squeeze  them  so  hard  as  to  break  the  seeds 
if  you  can  help  it ;  because  the  bruised  seeds  will  give  the  wine  a  dis- 
agreeable taste :  then   stiain   it  well,  and   let  it  settle  on   the  l« es  in 
such  a  cask  or  vessel   as  you  may  draw  it  off  without  raising  the  bot- 
tom ;  then  season  a  cask  well  wit'i    some  scalding   wMtei-,  and  dry  it 
or  sent  it  with    a  linen  rag  dipped  in    brimstone,   by  fixing  it  at   the 
hosue,  by  the    bung  or  cork  ;  then   put   the   wine  into   it,  and  stop  it 
close  for  forty-eight  hours  ;  then  give  it  vent  at   the   hnguc,  with  a 
Jiole  made  with  a  giuiblet  ;  in  vhicli  put  a  peg  or  f-wocf,  that  n.ay  be 
easily  moved    with  thu  fingers  ;  t'  en,   in  about  two  dsiys  time,  it  will 
be  fi»for  drinking,  an<l  prove  almost  as  good  as  French  wiuc. 
'J3d.  Wine  of  Stra-uiberries  or  Rasberries. 
MASH  the  berries,  and  put  them  info  a   linnen  bag,  as  aforesaid 
for  Uie   grapes  nnd   squeeze  them  into  a  cask,  and  then  let  it  work 


.;,02  USEFUL  RECEIPTS. 

as  in  the  aforesaid  grape  receipt,  8cc.  In  this  mannci-  may  cIleiTy 
Avine  !)e  made  ;  but  then  you  mint  break  the  seeds,  contrary  to  what 
Was  said  before  concerning  tlic  i^rapes. 

9i.'A.  ^]  shor  way  for  Clierry  Wine. 
SQUEEZE  the  juice  of  the  cherries  into  a  cask,  and  thereto  put  a 
smuU  quantity  of  suj^ar,  corresponding  to  tlie   quantity  of  juice  ;  anJ 
when  stood  a  month,  it  will  be  a  ph'asant  liquor. 
95 /A.  Black  Cheiry  Wine. 
IN  the  same  manner,  take  one  gallon  or  more  of  the  juice  of  hlaefe 
cherries  and  keep  it  in  a  vessel  close  slopped  till  it  works ;  ^nil  afteu 
It  is  fine,  add  an  ounce  of  sugar  to  each  quart,   and   a  pint   of  white 
iriue. 

96///.  Mead. 
TAKE  six  gsllons  of  water,  and  tliertto  put  six  fjuarts  of  honey, 
stirring  it  till  ttie  honey  l)e  thorouglily  mixed  ;  then  set  it  over  the 
fire,  and  when  ready  to  boil,  scuin  it  very  well  :  then  put  to  it  a 
tjuarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace,  and  as  much  ginger,  and  half  an  our.cc 
•f  nutmegs,  some  sweet  marjoram  thyme,  and  swett  briar,  together 
a  handful  :  then  boil  them  in  the  liquid,  then  let  it  stand  by  till  cold, 
and  then  barrel  it  op  for  use. 

97/A    To  make  Beer,  loithout  .Malt. 
TAKE  thirteen  gHllori'i  of  watc-,  boil  and  scum  it,  lint  two  pounds 
of  brown   sugar  iuid    two  pounds  of  tre  tele  to  it ;  boil  them  togethec 
half  -iu  hour,   strain    the  liquor  thwj'  Ji    sieve,   snd  put  to  it  a  penny 
■worth  or  two  of  baum,  when  cold  ;  work  it  a  day  and  a  night,  then 
turn  it :  let  it  stand  in   tbe  barrul  a   day  and  a  niffht,    then  bottle  it^ 
and  put  into  each  bottle  a  tea-spoon  fullof  briwn  sugar. 
98/A.   To  make  i^-oocl  common  Beer. 
FOR  a  barrel  of  thirty  two  gallons  take  half  a  pound  of  hops,  steep 
In  four  gallo;is  of  water  two  lifHirs,   strain  off",   then  take   one  jMiund 
essence  of  spruce,  and  one  gallon  of  molasses  ;  mix   them  tosrelher, 
and  put   it  in  the  barrel,  and  two  cents   worth  of  yeast,  and  fill  with 
water :  if  it  is  sumaier  it  need  not  be  w<irmcd,   but  warm  it  in  winter  ; 
when  full  shake  it  well,  and  slop  it  loosely  and  in  foar  days  it  will  be 
fit  for  bottling,  ami  use. 

99i/i  fur  fireserving  .ipplea  thro'  the  -zainler. 
THE  secret  tor  pi-eserving  aiiplcs  through  the  wititer,  in  a  sound 
state,  is  of  no  saisll  ii!ii>ortance.  Some  say  tltat  shutting  them  up  in 
a  tight  cask  is  an  effectual  method,  audit  seems  probable-  for  they 
soon  rot  in  oi)en  ai'-.  Bit  an  easier  method,  and  whnt  has  recom- 
mended itself  to  me  by  the  experience  of  several  years,  is  as  follows: — 
I  gatht-r  them  about  noon,  at  the  full  of  the  moon,  in  the  latter  part 
of  September  or  beginninar  of  October.  Then  spread  them  in  a  cliam- 
her  or  garret,  where  they  lie  till  about  the  last  of  November. — 
Then  remove  them  into  casks  »r  boxes,  in  the  cellar,  out  of  the  way 
of  the  frost ;  but  I  prefer  a  cool  part  of  the  cellar.  With  this  manage- 
jnen(  I  find  I  can  keep  them  till  the  last  of  May,  so  well  that  not  one 
in  fifiy  will  rot 

100/A.  To  pickle  Cucumhers,  ffreen. 
WASH  them,  and  dry  them  in  a  cloth  ;  then  take  water,  vinegar, 
salt,  fennel  tops,  some  di!l-tnps,  and  a  little  mace :  make  it  sharp 
enough  for  taste  j  then  boil  it  awhile,  then  take  it  off  and  let  it  stand 
till  colli  ;  then  put  it  in  the  encumbers  and  stop  the  vessel  close,  and 
■within  a  week  they  will  be  fit  for  use. 

101  sA  To  pickle  French  Beans. 
TAKE  them  while  young,  and  cutoff  the  stalks,  then  take  goo<i 
vi[lPoiti'  aud  boil  it  with  pepper  and  salt ;  season  it  to  year  palate,  and 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  S03' 

tet  it  stand  till  col  J  ;  then  take  t'le  beans  and  put  them  iuto  a  stone 
jav,  placing  dill  between  tfie  layers,  and  tlieu  jiut  in  iLe  pickle,  and 
cover  them  close  tin-  tliree  weeks  ;  thew  take  the  pickle  and  boil  it 
a^ain,  and  put  it  into  the  beans  boiling  iiot ;  cover  tlieni  close,  and 
when  cold  they  will  be  lit  to  eat. 

Or,  French  beans  tuay  be  pickled  thus :  Take  your  beans  an(I 
string  tlieni,  boil  them  tender,  then  take  them  ufT  ai:d  let  ibeni  stand 
till  cold  ;  tiien  put  them  into  pickle  of  vinegar,  pepiior,  salt,  cloveSj 
n;ace,  and  a  little  finger. 

lO'Zd.  To  pickle  JViilmtts,  to  eat  like  mungoes. 
TAKE  green  walnuts,  belbre  the  shell  has  grown  loanj  iiardness  iu 
them;  pick  thera  from  tlie  stalk  and  put  ihein  in  coul  watei-,  and  set 
tliem  on  a  gentle  fire,  till  the  outward  skins  begin  to  peel  otT;  then, 
with  a  coarse  cloth,  wipe  it  off;  then  put  tlieni  into  a  jar,  and  put  watec 
and  sail  therein,  shifting  it  once  a  day  for  ten  days,  till  tlie  buterness 
and  discolouring  of  the  water  be  gone  ;  then  take  a  gooti  tjuantity  of 
mustard  seed,  which  beat  up  with  vinegar,  till  it  becomes  coarse  mus- 
tard ;  then  take  some  clove  of  garlic,  sonie  ginger,  and  a  little  cloves 
and  mace ;  make  a  hole  in  each  nut,  and  put  in  a  littie  of  this  ;  thea 
take  white-Avine  vinegar,  and  boil  them  together,  winch  put  to  tiie  nuts 
boiling  hot,  with  some  pepper,  gi  ger,  cloves  and  mace,  as  also,  some 
of  the  mustard  seed  and  gailiik,  which  keep  close  stopped  for  use. 

103</  Tc  pickle  JUiishrooms. 
t  FIRST  blanch  tiiem  over  the  crowi^s,  and  barb  them  beneath  ;  then 
put  llieni  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  then  take  them  forth  and  let 
them  drain ;  when  they  are  cold,  put  tliera  into  your  jar  or  glass,  and 
put  to  them  cloves,  mace,  ginger,  nutmeg  ai^d  whole-pepper  ;  then 
take  white-wine,  a  little  vinegar,  and  salt  ;  then  pour  the  liquor  into 
the  mushrooms,  and  stop  them  close  for  use. 

With.  To  Pickle  Lemon  and  Orange  Peel. 
BOIL  them  in  vinegar  and  sugar,  and  put  them  into  the  same  pick- 
le :  observe  to  cijt  them  into  small  long  thongs,  llie  k-ngth  of  half  the 
peel  of  your  lemon  ;  it  oujjiil  to  be  boiled  in  water,  before  it  is  boiled  iii 
vinegar  aud  sugar. 

105 /A.  To  Preserve  Fnat  green. 
TAKE  pippins,  apricots,  pears,  plumbs,  or  peaches,  when  they  are 
green  ;  scaid  them  in  hot  water,  and  peel  theni  ;  then  ]n\i  them  into 
another  water,  not  so  hot  as  the  first ;  then  boil  them  very  tender,  and 
take  the  weight  of  thera  in  sugar,  and  put  to  them  as  much  water  us 
will  make  a  syrup  to  cover  tliem  ;  tiien  boil  the  syrup  till  it  be  somc- 
"what  thick,  and  when  cold  put  them  together. 

'.06ift.  To  Preserve  Jiuspbcrries. 
TAKE  good  raspberries  that  are  not  too  ripe,  but  very  whole  ;  lake 
away  the  stalks,  and  put  thera  into  a  flat  bottomed  earthen  pan  ;  boil 
sugar,  and  pour  it  ( vtr  your  raspberries,  then  let  them  stand  to  be 
cooli  and  when  they  are  coUI,  poUr  thera  softly  into  your  preserving 
kettle  and  let  them  boil  till  your  syrup  be  boiled  pretty  thick;  scum 
tliem  very  well  in  the  boiling  ;  this  done,  put  them  in  pots,  and  wlien 
cold,  cover  them  up  close  for  use. 

l07^/i.  To  Preserve  Barberries. 
TAKE  one  pound  of  barberries  picked  from  the  stalks,  put  thera 
in  a  pottle-pot,  and  set  it  in  a  brass  pot  full  of  hot  water,  ai.d  when 
they  are  stewed,  strain  tliem,  and  jiut  to  the  bilberries  one  and  an 
half  pounds  of  sugar,  and  to  them  put  a  pint  of  roscw;,tcr,  and  boil 
them  a  little  ;  then  take  half:i  pound  of  the  fairest  clusters  of  barber- 
ries you  can  get,  and  dip  them  hi  the  syrtip  whilst  it  is  «  boiling  5  then 


m  USEFUL  RECEIPTS.' 

take  tUe  baH)errie9  out,  and  boil  the  syrup  till  it  is  tlilcfc,  Aad  M(hcQ' 
colli,  put  them  in  glasses  with  the  syrup. 

108</i.   To  Preserve  Currants. 

LAY  a  layer  of  currants,  and  then   a  layer  ol"  sugar,  and  then  btil 

Diera  together  as  before   prescribed  for  i-aspberrios  ;  scum   them  in 

Jboiling  till  the  syrup  is  pretty  thick  ;  then  take  them  off,  and  whea 

iixey  are  pretty  cold,  put  them  in  gallypots  or  glasses  closely  stopped. 

lO'J^A.   To  Preserve'lfalnuts  green. 

BOIL  the  valnuts  till  the  water  tastes  bitter,  then  take  them  off, 
^nd  put  them  in  sold  water;  peel  off  the  bark,  and  weigh  as  much 
•sugar  as  they  weigh,  and  a  little  more  water  will  then  wet  the  sugar; 
set  them  on  the  fii-e,  and  M'lien  they  boil  up,  take  them  off;  let  them 
stand  two  days,  and  then  boii  again. 

ll()//j.    To  Preserve  Cherrieg. 

FIRST  tJ«kc  some  of  ti>c  worst  cherries,  and  boil  them  in  fair  wateij, 
and  when  the  liquor  is  well  coloured,  strain  it;  then  take  some  of  the 
Lest  cherries,  with  their  weight  in  beaten  9Uo:ar;  then  lay  one  layer 
of  sug".r,  and  another  of  cherries,  till  all  is  laid  in  the  preserving  ket- 
tle ;  then  pour  a  little  liquor  of  the  worst  of  cherries  into  it,  and  boil 
the  cherries  tUl  they  are  well  coloured  :  then  take  them  up  and  boil 
the  syrup  till  (hey  will  button  on  the  side  of  a  plate ;  and  when  tiiey 
are  cold,  put  them  up  in  a  glass  close  covered  for  use. 
\\\th.  To  Candy  Cherries. 

TAKE  cherries  before  they  be  full  ripe,  and  take  out  the  stones  : 
Iheu  take  clarified  sugar  boiled  to  a  height,  and  pour  it  on  them. 
1  \.2th.  To  Candy  Pears,  Plumbs,  Apricots,  &c. 

TAKE  them,  and  give  eveiy  one  a  cut  half  through  ;  then  cast 
sugar  on  them,  and  bake  them  in  an  oven,  as  hot  as  for  manchet,  close 
stopped  ;  let  them  stand  half  an  hour,  then  lay  them  one  by  one  upon 
glass  plates  to  dry,  and  they  will  appear  very  fine  and  clear  :  in  this 
manner  voa  may  candy  anv  other  fruit. 

113/^.   Of  Jellies. 

LET  thera  be  of  apples,  currents,  raspberries,  Stc.    Take  out  tT.e 
clear  liquor  when  squeezed,  and  boil  it  with  sugar  till  it  is  as  thick  as 
^  jelly.    Then  put  into  glasses,  and  cover  it  close. 
114;/i.     A  most  excellent  ^Wethod  of  making  Butter,  as  noto  practised 

in  England,  luhich  effectually  prevents  its  changiug  and  becoming 

rank-. 

THE  day  before  churning,  scab]  the  cream  in  a  clean  iron  kettle, 
over  a  clear  fire  taking  care  that  it  does  not  boil  over.  As  soon  as  it 
■begins  to  boil,  or  is  sufficiently  scalded,  strain  it,  wl»en  the  particles  of 
milk  which  lend  to  our  and  change  the  butter  are  separate*!  and  left 
behind.  Put  the  vessel  in  which  it  was  strained  in  a  tub  of  water,  in 
a  cellar,  till  next  morning,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  churning,  and 
ftecome  butter  in  less  tiian  a  quarter  of  the  time  required  by  the  com- 
mon method.  It  will  also  be  hard,  with  a  peculiar  additional  sweet- 
iiess,  and  will  not  change.  The  labor  in  this  way  is  less  than  the 
•other,  as  the  liutter  comes  so  much  sooner,  and  saves  so  much  labor 
in  working  out  the  buttermilk.  By  this  method,  good  butter  may  bp 
made  in  the  hottest  weather. 

USth.   A  method  of  Preserving  Eggs.. 

EGGS  keep  very  well  when  \ou  can  exclude  air;  wltich  is  best 
done  by  placing  a  grate  in  anv  rnnt\ing  water,  and  putting  eggs,  as 
the  hens  lay  them,  on  the  upper  side  of  the  grate,  and  there  let  them 
lie,  covered  with  water,  till  you  are  going  fo  use  them,  when  you   will 

d  them  as  good  as  if  they  ha<I  been  lain  that  day.  This  way  ans'wers 
:  .iicli  bcttcr'than  greasing ;  as  soracticacs  one  jilsce  is  misse^l  ^vhfcb 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS,  3d5 

spoils  the  whole  egg  :  eren  those  that  are  fresh  never  eat  so  ■weU.  In 
iilaces  -wliere  p  ople  are  afraid  their  eggs  will  be  stolen,  they  should 
make  a  chest  with  a  iiuiuber  of  slits  in  it,  that  the  water  may  get  in 
freely  ;  ihe  top  ot  which  being  above  the  water,  n»ay  be  locked  dowOji 
Mill-dams  are  the  most  proper  for  these  chests  or  grates. 

N.  B.  The  water  must  continually  cover  the  eggs,  or  they  will 
spoil. 

llQth.  To  Cure  Hama,  as  is  practised  in  Virginia. 
TAKE  six  jjounds  of  fine  salt,  three  pounds  of  browu  sugar,  ov 
three  pints  of  molasses,  and  one  iiound  of  salt-petre  powdered ;  mix 
all  these  logetlier,  to  serve  for  twenty-four  hams  :  rub  eacli  ham  well 
all  over  with  this  mixture,  and  pack  them  down  in  a  cask  or  tub,  and 
let  them  so  remam  for  five  or  six  days;  then  turn  tliem,  and  sprinkle 
some  salt  lightly  over  them,  and  so  let  them  remain  five  or  six  days 
more,  then  add  brine  or  pickle  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg,  and 
let  them  remain  covered  with  it  for  a  month,  when  they  will  be  fit  to 
am  oak. 

117 th.  Another  mode,  equally  as  good  and  simple. 
TO  four  gallons  of  soft  river  water,  add  one  poimd  of  brov/n  sugar, 
four  ounces  of  salt  petre,  and  eight  pounds  of  coarse  sqlt.    Boil  all 
these  together,  and  carefully  take  otf  the  scum  as  it  rises  ;  when  clear, 
let  it  remain  till  coUl,  then  pour  it  over  the  meat  till  covered,  and  the 
quantity  of  pickle  must  be  increased  according  to  the  quantity  of  meat ; 
Ihe  meat  must  not  be  pressed,  but  put  lightly  into  a  cask,  and  remain 
in  for  six  or  seven  weeks,  when  it  will  be  fit  to  smoke. 
ll%th.  For  a  water  to  Destroy  Bugs,  Flies,  Ants  and  other  Insects, 
on  tender  plants. 
[Invented  by  C.  Tatin,  See<lsman  and  Florist  at  Paris.") 
THE  receipt  for  tliis  valuable  composition,  and  which  obtained  for 
the  ingenious  author  a  reward  from  the  Bureau  de  CoHSultam,  who 
desired  it  might  be  made  as  public  as  possible,  is  thus   given  iu  the 
celebrated  Annates  de  Chimic: — 

Take  of  black  soap  four  ounces,  flour  of  sulphur  four  ounces,  niush> 
voomsof  any  kind  four  ounces,  water  wherein  dung  has  been  soaked^ 
two  gallons:  and  thus  in  proportion.  Divide  the  water  into  equa^ 
parts;  poor  one  part  into  a  barrel,  vat  or  atty  vessel  of  convenient 
size  ;  which  should  be  used  oidy  for  this  purpose  ;  let  the  black  soap 
be  stirred  in  it  till  it  is  dissolved,  and  then  add  to  it  the  mushrooms 
after  they  have  been  slightly  bruised.  Let  the  remaining  half  uf  the 
water  be  made  to  boil  in  a  kettle  :  put  the  whole  quantity  of  sulphur 
into  a  coarse  linen  cloth,  tie  it  up  with  a  thread  in  form  of  a  parcel, 
and  fasten  it  to  a  stone  or  other  weight,  to  make  it  sink  to  the  bottem. 
During  twenty  minutes,  being  the  time  that  the  Boiling  shotdd  con- 
tinue, stir  it  well  with  a  stick,  and  let  the  packet  of  sulphur  be  sijtieez- 
ed  so  as  to  make  it  yield  to  the  water  all  its  power  and  colour.  The 
effect  of  the  water  is  not  rendered  more  powerful  by  increasing  the 
quantity  of  ingredients.  The  water,  when  taken  off  the  fire,  is  to  be 
poured  into  the  vessel,  with  the  remaining  water,  where  it  is  to  be 
Stirred  a  short  time  with  a  stick  ;  this  stirring  must  be  repeated  every 
day,  till  the  mixture  l>econies  foetid,  (or  putrid)  in  the  highest  degree, 
Bxperience  shews,  that  the  older  and  more  foetid  the  composition  is|,  • 
4he  more  quick  is  its  action.  It  is  necessary  to  take  care  to  stop  the 
vessel  well  every  time  the  mixture  is  stirred.  When  wc  wish  to 
make  use  of  this  water,  we  need  only  sprinkle  it  on  the  plants,  or 
plunge  their  branches  into  it  ;  but  the  best  lunnner  of  using  it,  is  W ' 
f-jeot  it  on  them  with  a  syringe,  or  s<|uirt  gttDi 


•Jo  USEFUL  RECEIPXa 

119//*.  To  Kill  Lice  on  Cattle. 

TAKE  a  broad  woolka  list,  as  bi-oad  as  your  hand,  tliat  will ga 
round  about  his  ueek ;  tlien  wci  the  list  well  iit  train  oil,  and  stw  it 
about  the  beast's  neck,  and  the  lice  will  coine  to  il,and  it  will  kill  tUeiu 
if  there  were  ever  so  many  ;  daub  some  about  the  breast  in  several 
places  and  tbey  will  coaie  to  it,  and  it  wdl  kill  them.  No  flies  ia 
sumiaer  will  come  near  any  wound  or  sore,  where  this  is  applied, for 
it  Uill  kill  ttieiii. 

I'iOr/i.  To  Destroy  Bugs,  and  rid  Houaea  of  them. 

TO  remove  tliese  noisome  and  troublesome  vermin,  take  oil  of 
.turpentine,  wash  over  the  walls  and  bedsteads  with  it,  or  particularly 
wlific  there  are  any  crevices,  cracks  or  ci  annies,  and  they  will  die 
away,  and  tbe  room,  after  some  time  using  it,will  no  more  be  pestered 
^va\^  them. 

The  juice  of  wormwood  and  rue  is  very  good  to  wash  the  bed- 
pteails,  crevices,  or  any  place  where  you  suppose  they  are,  and  if  you 
vould  lie  safe  among  thousands  in  a  room,  riiice  your  sheets  in  water, 
-wherein  sassafras  has  been  well  steeped,  and  they  will  not  enter  U|)on 
■them  ;  or  you  may  l-ay  that  woo<l  in  slices  among  your  linen,  and  ft 
«\iill  Jiave  the  same  cft'ect.    Keep  your  rooms  airy  and  cleaa  always 


AGRICULTURAL. 
To  Farmehs. 

■\^\st  ^n  easTj  riiethod  to  preserve  meat  and  Bye  from  the  Weavit 
AS  you  slack  wheat,  ot  every  twc  or  three  layers  of  sheaves,  spread 
snme  elder  leaves  and  branches.  This  was  communicated  to  me  by  a 
thrnier,  who  tried  the  experiment  with  success  last  year.  The  sai;ie 
informant  adds,  that  he  has  read  in  history,  that  the  same  remedy  has 
been  applied  in  EuiX)pe,  when  they  have  occasion  to  lay  up  a  seven 
year's  store,  kc.  As  the  remedy  is  easy,  it  is  to  be  hoped  tha(  farmers 
will  avail  ibeinsehes  of  the  advantage  Exporters  ot  flour  from  the 
states  have  nothing  so  much  to  fear.  Insperioj's  of  flour  ought  to  be 
guarded  agaitisi  tliis  evil ;  no  such  flour  ought  to  be  suffered  to  leave 
tive  states.  Tiie  credit  of  our  flour  abroad  depends  on  the  inspectors. 
N.  B.  Lime,  applied  as  above,  will  produce  the  same  effect 

IS'i*/.  To  preserve  Indian  Corn  from  Birds,  &c. 
TO  prevent  your  Indian  corn  when  planted,  from  being  taken  up 
iiy  biitfs  or  destroyed  by  worms  or  insects,  take  about  one  pint  of  tap 
to  a  bushel  of  seed  corn,  and  in  the  like  proportion  for  a  preater  quan* 
lity,  and  stir  it  well  together  till  evei-y  grain  receives  a  part  of  the  tav- 
riiis  will  effectually  answer  the  purpose  recpiired. 

l'23f/.    For  Inoculating  Fitut  Trees. 

AUGUST  and  September  are  the  prfiper  montlis  to  inoculate  05 

id  iTiost  kinds  of  fruit   trees;  an   operation   that  cTery   landholder 

!,ould  have  some  knowlecige  of.     When  a  tree  has  finished  its  growth 

^Sr  tli^year,  a  bud  is  formed  at  the  very  tip  or  end  of  the  twig  ;  whicd 

■denotes  tliat  it  is  in  a  jn-oper  state  to  bud  or   inoculate.    Some   trees 

are  indeed  an  exception,  as  they   continue  growing  almost  the  whole 

.season,  and  may  be  budded  through  all  July  and  August. 

Witli  a  sharp  knife,  slit  the  bark  of  any  twig  not  mo-e  than  half  an 
.inch  thivk,  and  not  less  than  a  quarter  of  an.  inch.  Carefully  cut 
through  the  bark,  but  not  to  wound  the  wood  urKler  it  Let  the  slit 
*e  rather  more  than  aninclilonv;.  In  like  mannercut  hwlfan  inch  long 

"cjs  this  slit,  at  tlic  bottom,  so  thai  Uie  Wo  cuts  (ferot^h  Uie  baj;^ 


USEFUL  RECEIPTS.  S07 

will  resemble  a  j_  bottom  upwaiJs.  Then  take  a  bud  of  the  fruit 
you  wish  to  propHgale,  with  its  Lark  near  an  inch  long,  taking  care  to 
loosen  itlVoni  the  woody  part  of  the  stem,  so  as  to  imt  it  off  from 
your  thumb  and  fuifjer,  separaiiiig  the  bark  and  the  eye  under  the 
bud  from  the  wooil.  If  the  eye  is  left  on  the  wo<id,  you  must  throw 
hy  the  bud  and  take  another.  Then  nisert  the  bud  under  the  j^,  be- 
fore described,  and  bind  it  down  with  woollen  strings,  or  -well  soaked 
stiipsof  bark  of  bass  wood,  leaving  the  e}e  of  the  bud  to  the  air.  la 
two  or  three  weeks,  the  bud  will  unite  wltli  the  stalks,  when  tlie 
string;  must  be  lousened.  The  stocks,  may  be  cut  away  the  next 
spring.  Tius  method  is  on  many  accounts  better  than  grafting..  It 
gives  tiie  farmer  another  cliance,  provided  his  grafts  fail  in  the  spring. 
Stone  fruits  succeed  only  or  best  with  inoculation.  Small  twigs,  too 
small  foi-  common  grafting,  answer  well — and  above  all  in  this  way, 
very  little  injury  is  done  to  tiie  stock.  In  a  fruit  country,  this  metliod 
oui,'ht  to  be  well  umlcrstood.  A  correspondent  says,  that  cow-dung, 
■with  the  addition  of  a  very  little  salt,  is  a  good  plaister  for  the  wounds 
of  fruit  ti'ees.  When  large  limbs  are  cut  of,  the  stumps  should  b$ 
covered  to  keep  out  the  air.  Too  much  salt  will  spoil  the  tree. 
Vlith.    To  take  a  Film  off  a  House's  Eye. 

RLAOK  Pepper,  finely  ground,  and  sifted  thro'  a  piece  of  gauze; 
add  thereto  fiiie  groun<l  salt,  of  each  as  much  hs  will  lay  on  the  point 
of  a.  case  knife,  mixmg  them  well  together  ;  then  take  as  much  dough, 
as  will  thinly  cover  an  ounce  ball,  make  it  flat,  place  the  pepper  and 
salt  thereon,  arid  roll  them  up,  making  the  same  about  the  size  of  an 
Ounce  ball ;  then  put  it  as  low  down  as  possible  in  the  olF  ear  fastening 
{he  ear  so  as  to  prevent  its  falling  out  The  above  takes  off  the  worsfi 
of  films,  and  no  way  injures  the  horse.  This  receipt  has  been  use<J 
many  years  in  this  place  with  the  greatest  success. 

Vl^th.    .1  Cure  for  SJteep- Biting. 

AN  intelligent  farmer 4n  New-Jersey  seized  a  dog  which  often  wop- 
lied  and  bit  his  slieep.  He  lied  the  leg  of  the  dog  bj-  a  tetlier  to  ihc 
leg  of  a  strong  active  ram,  and  placed  tliem  on  the  top  of  a  hill.  The 
lam  immediately  began  to  kick  and  butt  the  dog,  who  after  a  little 
snapping,  attempted  to  fly.  Tiie  tether  held  him,  so  that  the  raiu 
easily  overtook,  kicked  and  butted  him.  Afier  a  short  time  the  ram, 
excited  to  exertion,  raced  down  the  hill,  apd  forced  the  dog  after  him. 
When  the  dog  was  so  punished  as  not  to  forget  it,  he  was  let  loose,  and 
would  never  touch  a  sheep  afterwanls. 

Vldth.    An  easy  unci  sure  Method  to  find  due  J^orth  and  South. 

TAKE  a  smooth  piece  of  board,  draw  on  it  four,  five  or  .six  cii  cle^ 
Cisten  it  on  the  top  of  a  post,  stick  a  pin  in  the  centre  which  the  cir- 
cles are  drawn  on  within  each  other  ;  observe  in  the  forenoon  on  which 
uiicle  the  sha-iow  of  the  head  of  the  pin  strikes,  and  make  a  mark; 
tlien  in  the  afternoon  observe  when  it  strikes  on  the  othev  8ide,ofthe 
same  circle  ;  lh«  n  find  the  centre  on  the  circle,  then  -tnke  a  line  iyoiff 
one  CO  the  oUier,  wiueh  cauuot  fail  of  being  north  and  south. 


UINX^. 


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